Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • 105

CN Chicago Tribune, Friday, Januarys, 1990 Section 7 19 Friday iesGa.siQDTairDGs' IV I -U Time to retaste the best of eats Chicago dining away from town By Manuel Galvan and Barbara Sullivan hicago foodies need not abandon local restaurants or restaurateurs when they leave town. Among the far-flung ex efore we start thinking of all the food we're going to be enjoying in 1990, it's time to pause a moment and savor -f I 1... iai.n,.:.. amples of Chicago-owned and Chicago-inspired dining are the following: The Boca Raton (Fla.) Resort Club is home to Nick's Fishmarket, a pastel-hued cousin of the Chicago-area restaurants that has much the same menu. There's also a Nick's Fishmarket in Honolulu but Nick sold that one in 1985; his Hawaii location is called Nicholas Nickolas, The Restaurant, and it sits atop the Ala Moana Americana Hotel in Honolulu.

There's a Morton's in Los Angeles, run by two of Arnie Morton's children, Peter and Pam Morton. The decor includes ceiling-high palm trees and a canopied bar, the menu includes blue crab cakes, grilled lamb and no doubt a homage to Dad Caesar salad. Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises has expanded well beyond the Chicago area. There are Ed Debevic's restaurants in Beverly Hills, Phoenix, Torrance (Calif.) and Osaka, Japan. There's also Don Charlie's, a rib and chop house in Scotts-dale, Ariz.

One Mellon Bank Center, an office complex in downtown Pittsburgh, is home to three Levy Restaurants properties. The Carlton is a clubby, fine-dining room featuring prime meats and fish; Eadie's Kitchen, like its namesake in Sears Tower, is a very casual breakfast-and-lunch spot; and Eadie's Market has a carryout menu. Levy Restaurants also operates two highly themed restaurants in Pleasure Island, part of Walt Disney World in Orlando. The Fireworks Factory features barbecued chicken and ribs, much like Randall's Rib House; and Por-tobello Yacht Club is a seafood-and-pasta restaurant with gourmet pizzas. Former Chicagoan Bob Payton opened the Chicago Pizza Pie Factory in London 12 years ago.

He now owns 19 overseas restaurants, with names like The Windy City Bar and Grill and Chicago Rib Shack. Chicago's pizza fame continues to grow thanks to Pizzeria Uno Restaurant and Bar, a restaurant chain that grew out of Pizzeria Uno. The chain numbers nearly 60 franchises including ones in Boston, San Francisco, Australia, Canada and London. Phil Vettel Tribune photo by Vai Mazzenga Big booths and ample seating are part of the scene at Nick's in Rosemont. Service, decor set an elegant tone at Nick's Fishmarket in Rosemont some of our favorite city Cheap Eats spots during 1989.

Capt'n Nemo's docked downtown (211 W. Wacker 332-SUBS) in September. Geared for the lunch crowd. Nemo's has submarine sandwiches featuring fresh, crusty bread packed with unique combinations, such as ham with pineapple sauce, as well as the traditional Italian versions of salamis and cheeses. A free sample of soup often pea soup eases the luncheon wait Casa Lona (3877 N.

Elston 588-0360) is a great pizzeriapub where video rentals are free with orders of $10.75 or more. That $10.75 level might be hard to reach because prices of the pizzas, barbecue, lasagna and other dishes are well under $10. The atmosphere coasts movie posters and a nickelodeon that the kids will love. Franco's (300 W. 31st 225-9566) is near Comiskey Park but pays homage to good Italian food rather than baseball mania.

It has a cozy elegance. The fare includes overflowing plates of pasta for under $4 and an exceptional veal Marsala for $8.50. Save room for desserts your sweet tooth will thank you. Ace's Diner (4801 N. Broadway, 878-8118) is the place to be when it's very late or very early, depending on your definition of time.

It offers such hearty breakfast fare as catfish and cornbread, biscuits and gravy, plus the usual omelets and eggs-over-easy from 11 p.m. to 8 a.m. Wednesdays through Sundays (live jazz from 3 to 7 a.m.). The bar part of Hawkeye's Bar Grill (1458 W. Taylor St, 226-3951), near the University of Illinois at Chicago campus, is a major hangout, but the kitchen offers some outstanding dishes that will fill your stomach without making much of a dent in your wallet Most of the items, such as the half-pound, build-your-own hamburger ($4.75) and burrito supreme are definitely enough to share, and the homemade fries that accompany many dishes are especially good.

We're very busy tonight," said me smiling man oeninu me host station. Hut you have a seat at the bar, we'll try and Nick's Fishmarket 10275 W. Higgins Rosemont big Big service, fish, big tab. get you a table as soon as possible." My companion looked about the half-full dining room and glowered, suspecting the old make-'em-buy-a-cocktail ploy. But we were shown to a table in less than five minutes.

My friend was right it was a ploy, but not to sell liquor, the host merely wanted to impress upon us that he was making an effort Welcome to Nick's Fishmarket, which sells atmosphere and service at least to the same extent that it sells seafood. With prices that make it the most expensive fish house in town, Nick's relies on exemplary service and plush surroundings to make the dinner check palatable. And Nick's has succeeded. Its main location in the Loop, a place where fine-dining restaurants struggle mightily to RfltlnQ system Outstanding Good Excellent Satisfactory Very Good Unsatisfactory survive, has been open for 1 1 years. For more than a year there has been a second Nick's in the area, this in the O'Hare See Nick's, pg.

24 Forecast for '90: We will think fast for eating out and cater for eating in mar percent increase in real sales (adjusted for price increases) in restaurants and lunchrooms in 1990, up from an almost flat 0.7 percent in 1989. Increased sales at limited-menu restaurants, including fast-food spots, are forecast at 3 percent. Ice cream and frozen yogurt sales should increase by 2.8 percent, but increasing pressure to drink moderately will account for a 4.3 percent decrease at bars and taverns. Tempted to let somootic else cook the dinner at By Patricia Tennison I you're running with lit 1 the pack in 1990, tJjM you'll be eating a bit more at fast-food restaurants, visiting ice cream and frozen yogurt stands, drinking less at bars and maybe hiring a caterer to help with your next home party. These are among the foodscrvi-ce trends predicted by the National Restaurant Association.

The experts-predict a modest 1 Charlie Trotter's, The Everest Room, Frontera Grill and Cafe Provencal have earned the distinguished restaurant award from Conde Nast Traveler. Don's Fishmarket, Skokie, holds its first wine-tasting dinner Tuesday. The $42 tab includes a five-course dinner plus wine from Australia and Italy. The dining room at the Culinary School of Kendall College, 2408 Orrington Ev- anston (708-866-1399), reopens week fbf winter term. Lunch ($12) and a la carte dinners and banquets ($14) are prepared and served by advanced culinary arts students.

Cafe de Paris in the Hotel Sofitel, Rosemont, introduces a fixed price 'lunch ($16) that includes appetizer or salad, entree and dessert. Gary Prusa formerly at Fond de la Tour, Oak Brook; the Chicago Golf Club, Wheaton; and the Naperville Country Club moves to chef at Eagene's; Morton' Grove.1 your home? So are your neighbors, and social catering sales likely will increase by 3.4 percent Keeping right up with the trends, La Misada (565-4222) in the Hyatt Regency Chicago, 151 E. Wacker in January starts to offer hot and cold customized kosher meals to "go: 1.