Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • 246

Homes Leisure Living 2 Section 13 Chicago Tribune, Sunday, July 22, 1979 Nostalgic sew-how Patterns of the past are still available I've got toS get organized .1 aisMBMaiaMBMSa I saMii ii ii i. ii in Hi mmmktm lT'3ulIZG SGt -to ftp THIS 'FROM ii and tear on the originals, which were modeled at semimonthly fashions shows there. She had no patterns from which to work, but Saundra, who attended the Parsons School of Design and who says she is more pattern-maker than seam stress, made the patterns herself. She traced the original gowns, using a French curve guide for corrections and adjusted the gowns to today's woman by using European Burda patterns In modern sizes. Before she started, she did months and months of research, "mostly In 1902 to 1905 copies of The Ladies Home Jour nal," to learn the sewing tricks of that era, how to make choke-collar bands, to inset a godet (a triangular piece of material used to make a graceful train) to shape corset covers, create Renaissance sleeves, and other sew-howS peculiar to that age fashions.

"the first dress I made called for 124 pleats at the bottom," she says. that took me 2Vi weeks." The dress, with all Ihose pleats, many tucks, plus lace trim was a "simple" daytime summer dress. She works on a 1910 electric sewing-machine, and on one ball gown she spent 6 hours putting ribbon trim on by machine. "I noticed that on the original gown, however that ribbon was sewed on by hand. Usually the dresses were made on the machine but the trim was at.

on with hand stitching." TODAY THE patterns for these and ether gowns she has reproduced are shown in a catalog, which she is advertls-, Ing in nostalgia and historical periodl-; cals. She la becoming known and In addition to orders, often Is asked quea- IN THIS day or easy tewing, of dresses whipped up in a hurry from a simple patterns and often made simpler with fusible tape or Vetera fastenings, who is going to make a dress calling for 28 pieces of material cut from It yards of fabric and finished off with yards of lace inserts and other trims including 4 yards of ribbon, 2 yards of bias tape, plus numerous buttons, hooks and eyes? That was sewing in the early 1900s. A dress pattern could call for a train, chemisette, complicated Renaissance sleeves, a choker collar, boning, a bertha, buttons, flounces, tucks, faggoting, godets, staybands, or other intricacies that took the time and expertise most of us don't have today. But somebody's making them today. A new firm called Past Patterns in Grand Rapids, offering patterns for authentic reproductions of clothing, circa 1900-1905, is doing a brisk business with historical societies, nostalgia buffs, people Into yesteryear events, brides who want old-fashioned wedding gowns, and antique automobile associations holding meets at which the participants attend in clothing of that era.

PAST PATTERNS was originated by Saundra Altman, a young woman with a yen for the past and an eya to the future. She appreciates old houses and old things, and It was while she was a volunteer at Volgt House, an historic old home that now Is a museum In Grand Rapids, that she conceived the Idea for supplying a need, patterns for clothing of the past. But first she set out to make replicas of the historic day and evening gowns own ed by the museum. She believed that exact copies of them would save wear and double your storage capacity We're specialists in distinctive and functional closet Interiors custom designed to fit your Individual needs In home, apartment and office: The patented MODULAR CLOSET SYSTEM is designed to arrange and neatly organize your closet while doubling Its storage space. Pfioto, by Thaterief Studio.

Grind Btpidi, Mich Reproduction of early 1900s gowns in tha heirloom collection of Volgt house, a museum in Grand Rapids, led Saundra Altman to create a business called fast Patterns, which offers patterns for making clothing of that early era." v' '25 $25 i 4- Show this coupon to our closet designer and receive $25 off your order. OFFER EXPIRES 8179. '25 25 She also has another new venture under way that she calls the Past Patterns Bridal Service. This is a custom-made bridal and antique clothing business, with her partner Kim Frenell doing the sewing from Saundra'a patterns. If you would like a catalog, which in eludes six gowns plus lingerie and under garments of the era plus one gentleman's suit with an unconstructed sack coat, simple vest, and pleated trousers, send $2 with your name, address, and zip cpde to Past Patterns, 255 Union, S.E., Grand Rapids, Mich.

49503. The patterns them selves come in size 10 to 16 and cost from $8.50 to $15 each. tions, such as where to find old lace. (Her advice on that Is to study lace books, then watch the house sales, junk stores, and garage "People don't realize yet that old lace is worth having. They don't know what to do with "I knew there was a market for this type of pattern, since I know of no other source for them," she says.

She has tried to keep-her pattern notes as simple and Instructive as possible. "This first catalog is loose-leaf pages, which she hopes people will keep in a collecting others as she enlarges the series. He next batch will take a period from 1905, when the styles began to change. "I'd like to create patterns all VTsa, Kbsterchtrgt Showroom Hours: 9-5 or by appointment. DIAL C-L-O-S-E-T-S 256-7387, 37 W.

Fullerton Addison, in. 60101' Yard goods passe? Not on your thimble the way up to the 30s," she says. Janet Murray MS Continued from page 1 robe and sewing tips," said Sam Musca rello, Field's buyer of silks and synthetics. "They cover such things as construction details interfacings, linings, and the like. "We may show a garment in pure silk, but we try to make it clear that the customer doesn't have to use silk; she BOTH STORES pride themselves en their stocks of top quality fabrics left from the cuttings of major fashion designers such as Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, Yves St.

Laurent, Noriko, and others. "A customer can see an illustration of one of their designs in a fashion magazine and match it exactly, even to the can use polyester ir she prefers, our aim identical fabric," says Jerry Fishman, is to help her, and keep her interested." president of Fishman's, "and make it or have it made at a fraction of the cost of Reg. $120.00 SALE GM Sofia in imported NATURAL HAITIAN COTTON with plump, loose seat back cushions. 'Converts into a full size bed for comfortable sleeping. In stock for Immediate delivery.

the designer original." Fishman pulled out rolls and rolls of such fabrics, many of them kept in his office and cramming the shower stall of tHe private bath adjoining it. They ranged up to $125 for a panel of heavy silk satin with huge hand-painted butter fies on It There were beautiful border print wools from a top Italian mill, at $50 a yard; crepes, brocades, panne velvet, lame, metallic prints, chiffons, laces, fabrics with patterns in hand-applied sequins, silk jerseys, vicunas, jacquards, taffetas a fairyland of fabrics most seamstresses only dream about. The treat majority of them come from lurope, Fishman says; American mills no longer wish to take the time and pains necessary to turn out such exquisite materials. He says he is able to offer them at substantial savings by buying designers' overages or direct from mills. The Fishman store has been in the Roosevelt-Halsted area since 1903.

Founded by Jerry Fishman's grandfather and operated next by his father and now by Jerry, it has moved once and expanded many times. The store is not all one-of-a-kind silks, by any means. It carries all the popular fabrics from sturdy denims and cor duroys up, plus patterns, findings, trims, buttons, thread, drapery hardware, you name it. VOGUE FABRICS may not be quite as old it was founded 34 years ago by Si Sussman and Sol Farber, brothers-in-law, and is now operated by both men's sons, Marshall and Barry Sussman and Mel Farber but it has grown to be as large or larger and carries an even more diver 45 piece service for 8 includes 8 dinner plates, 8 salad plates, 8 cups, 8 saucers, 8 soup bowls, 1 platter, 1 vegetable bowl, 1 covered sugar and 1 creamer. Available in your choice of 4 patterns LaCaprl A terra cotta band surrounds a simple floral design on an oatmeal background, (shown) Brown Brown A duet of chocolate bands outline an oatmeal background Morning Sun A circle mixture of earthtones surrounds a burst of yellow sun Carrousel A triple band of terra cotta outlining a white border delicately Terra Cotta highlights an eggshell background Buy early! Quantities are limited.

We ship anywhere In continental USA. ft special price Choose from over 50 different styles from famous manufacturers such as Simmons, Englander, Motif, Selig and others. Muscarello said most of the audience at these shows are young career women who are living on limited budgets, probably paying high rents, but who want to be well-dressed. Despite busy lives they put time aside to sew and save. FIELD'S ALSO has fabric departments In 11 of its outlying stores but has had no success with daytime programs in these, so it offers informal modeling Instead.

All its sales staff are expected to sew or be well acquainted with fabrics; they atttrid weekly meetings to receive the latest information on the store's line, care of fabrics, special treatment, and related information. They are expected to be able to help shoppers with selection of fabrics to go with their patterns, and estimate yardages required for certain garments when the shopper has no pattern. Most other fabric departments and shops also try to have knowledgeable employes, In the main, most of them do, though one retailer confessed the average age of his help is rising into the 50s and he is not so sure what he will find when it is time to replace them, When Carson Pirie Scott Co. closed the fabrics departments in all its stores earlier this year couldn't justify their existence any longer," a spokesman said) rumors were flying that Wieboldt's would be next to go, but not so, says Bob Carlson, fabrics buyer. "We're going to continue," he said.

THE SAME situation applies at Gold-blatt's, where Bill Weiner, buyer, said the store has received numerous letters begging it not to discontinue Its fabrics department. Business has In fact Increased recently at the State Street store, probably because of customers who no longer can buy at Sears or Wards, Weiner believes. "Every time we have a fabric sale now, women misconstrue it and think it's a going-out-of-business sale," he said. Weiner said Goldblatt's will continue to carry both high-end and lower-end materials. The store buys numerous so-called sample room fabrics, yardages remaining after fashion houses have cut their lines.

While some of these are available only in limited quantities, they represent high fashion and quality at excellent NEW TOWN INTERIORS 926 W. Diversey Chicago, IL 60614 Phone: 2484181 OPEN 7 DAYS Quantities art limited. Free perking In our fot behind the etore. NEED A FIREPLACE IN YOUR HOME? SHOP HERE NOW! INSTALL IT NOW! CALL FOR FREE IN-HOME ESTIMATE HIGHEST RATED HEAT EFFICIENCY SUPERIOR'S SHC-38 Heat-clrculatlng with attractive glass doors and outside combustion air design It's your best fireplace fuel saver. Heat can be ducted to the same or adjoining rooms.

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6900 Finkl umCrellt or ft. 81220 California umbrella and camant umbralla basa. sified stock, including sewing machines. It also offers services that are becoming extremely hard to find elsewhere, such as making buttonholes, covering buttons, and putting in grommets. It too carries numerous fabrics from name-designer houses, and European as well as American patterns.

"It takes a specialty-type storeto make it today," says Marshall Sussman. "We have to give our customers service and the advice they need; if we couldn't provide it, they wouldn't know where to go. We tell them if something they need isn't available here, we'll get it on request." Noting that fewer young women are learning to sew (though Sussman says 10 to 15 per cent of Vogue customers are under 25, rather than the 4.1 per cent of the DuPont survey), the store has plans to offer classes, just as soon as a bit of remodeling provides space for them. MEANTIME IT provides lots of Ideas. Displays scattered around the store show how, for example, to make clever quilted placemats of quilted fabrics; how to make circular tablecloths; or how to turn out a handbag.

Both Fishman and Vogue are busy stores. Jerry Fishman says that except for the period after the Big Snow when customers couldn't get to the store, sales are up from last year. Marshall Sussman believes a shakeout is occurring, caused in part by the end of the doubleknit boom. It passed its peak a couple of years ago, and numerous fabric stores and departments that stocked polyester knits and little else are going out of business, he said. If not doubleknits, what will the fashion-conscious woman be sewing for this fall? Woolens, corduroys, and velvets, Fishman and Sussman predict.

r.u. in tnOAnS Carton etOD DELIVERY SPECIAL EXTRA Pay the Regular Low Price for your Carpet and Receive the same amount of PAD ABSOLUTELY FREE! Falcon 5100 GAS GRILL Cast Iron, Dual burner, with 48" post, porcelain cook skins Reg. $248.40 Complete line ol grille and pan Piiemed Grease Drainage Syalem lo Prevent Oangeroua Flare-Up prices, he said. Penney's has every intention of continuing to carry fabrics by the yard, though its sales have been down somewhat in the last two or three years. "We're studying the market carefully," said Bill Rot of Penney's regional office, "so we can continue to bring the shopper what she most wants." A FRIENDLY rivalry exists between Vogue and Fishman's, second and third generation stores that have prown into giants from small beginnings.

They cater not only to the average woman who sews, but also to fashion design students, cos-turners, interior designers, dressmakers, and tailors. Both carry almost Incredible inventories. Ultra Suede, the completely washable, suedelike fabric that burst on the fabric scene a few years ago, comes in 50 colors. Who carries 50 colors? Vogue and Fishman both do. They have pure linen, virtually unobtainable elsewhere; they have 100 per cent cottons, many of them Imports; they have woolens from over the world, and, of course, a complete range of blends and synthetics.

Their supplies of pure silk must be seen to be believed. In addition to all the dress goods and menswear fabrics, both stores stock big supplies of decorating fabrics, from imported lace for curtains to drapery and upholstery materials. SPRING BASE CHAIR 914S SPECIAL 6995 by Meadowcraft Rf- J36J0 CARPET FOREST CUUrUN I FREE PADDING In addition to Our Low Prices, This Coupon Entitles I Bearer to Free Padding with Any Carpet Purchase. 1 Immediate Delivery Available. I COUPON GOOD THRU 73179 valid Only al Time of Purehese and Eeluive of Any Other Sale -J ALL SM.I PRICES ME CASH ft CARRY feature a complete lln el patio furniture by famous makers like Meadowcraft, Homecrett, Arlington House, Soulini, Woodard, Wimton, Vandyeraft, John Hancock, inkel.

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