The Los Angeles Times from Los Angeles, California • 97

Routine Interesting Variations to Break the Breadmaker's mm BY BARBARA HANSEN Tliwt Wrllw Great, grainy breads bring that warm country look to your, tabls. And if you made them yourself, they'll also bring a hefty helping of comDliments. i imitlifiifrlflin HHi mmmmmmmmmmmm. 'T Jiyar fi. These wholesome breads are packed with good things that enhance their flavor, add interesting texture and deepen their color.

They're for occasions when you want earthy peasant appeal, not to say that anything is wrong with a light and lovely loaf of white bread. But pumpernickels, ryes and other robust loaves stand up best to hearty foods like pastrami, corned beef and sausages. Sliced and served with butter, they make an interesting variation on rolls and other lighter luncheon breads. Keeping Them Light To keep these breads from being too heavy, the dark flours, grains and, cereals with which they are made are, in most cases, lightened with all-purpose flour. Delicious for breakfast and different for sandwiches is a whole wheat loaf with walnuts.

Try it toasted and spread with butter and whipped honey. Oatmeal bread undergoes a new variation in loaves 1 that contain wheat germ, whole wheat and soy flours as well as the oatmeal. Honey is used for a slight sweetening. Swedish limpa bread also appears in a new version here. Bits of prune are worked into the loaves, adding to their dark sweetness.

Molasses colors this bread, which is made with equal parts rye and all-purpose flour. Fennel seeds are generally added to limpa bread for an anise flavor. They afe not used here but could be added on another occasion, and the prunes omitted. Dark Bread Recipes Recipes follow for other dark European breads that will pleasantly vary the breadmaker's routine. Try forming these breads in different shapes.

Set them to rise in conventional loaf pans one time. Another time, mold them into round loaves and place them in round layer cake pans. Coffee cans will produce tubular loaves, and small, deep cake pans will make chunky little round loaves. If you're a well-organized cook, try planning a simple dinner party Please Turn to Page 16, Col. 1 BEVY OF BREADS Add variety to baking with dark and grainy loaves such as Pumpernickel, Raisin Pumpernickel, Swedish Limpa and rye breads, all made with rye flour.

v. 1 1 Timmi photo by Mary Framptom LUNCH, ANYONE? 1 v. Tennis Buffs Who Serve More Than Just a Ball BY ROSE DOSTI Times StaH Writer Jean Leon used to play baseball at Barrington Park. Then a fastball cracked his finger. He took up tennis, built a court at his home in Malibu and has been host-chef-player extraordinaire to 12 players every Sunday since.

1 He serves tomatoes with avocado, chicken and rice, vitello tonnato, ratatouille, pate en croute, jambon persille, pate de champagne, quiche Lorraine, calamares al vino bianco, prosciutto with figs, stuffed tomatoes, fresh' artichokes, Russian salad, Greek olives, stuffed mushrooms and galantine of veal, all washed down with Pouligny Mon-trachet 1970 and Cabernet Sauvi-gnon 1969. And lunch is never the same twice. ricnty on Hand Tennis, anyone? Sally and Jack Hansen, whose home tennis court nestles in a classic Mediterranean setting, know how many players are coming. Six or 20? But never mind. A big cassoulet, a big serve-yoursclf ham," gallons of lemonade are al- ways on hand.

If Sally runs out of food, she runs out. The Brook Townsends of Pasadena built a room adjoining their tennis court and enlarged the house to meet the court-room. The game is everything. There is always something to eat afterwards chicken salad in avocado, a do-ahead chicken casserole, barbecued steak. And everyone helps himself.

These are examples of the increasing number of home court players who build lunch around their games. They fall into their roles as host-players with varying degrees of simplicity or Some, like Jean Leon," owner of La Scala restaurant in Beverly Hills, are as avid about their lunch menu as about their playing. Oth-. ers, like Mrs. Hansen, the designer and co-dwner of Jax, a boutique in Beverly Hills, place the emphasis on the game.

"I should worry about my friends' diets? That's' their problem." For the most part, tennis players like light foods, says Joseph 0. Bixler, president of the Southern California Tennis Assn. "They're, terribly weight and health conscious, so you will rarely find a host who also plays serving rich saucy foods to his guests," he said. u'; One is more apt to find a crisp green salad and sandwiches, barbecued burgers, steaks or hot dogs, cold meat loaf and potluck-type casseroles, rather than saucy meats, rich stews or soup. Alcohol a No-No One" rarely sees tennis players nipping anything stronger than Ga-torade or iced tea during a game, according to Bixler, Alcoholic beverages, he says, are a no-no on the court.

And for good reason. Alcohol inhibits normal functions. Most tennis players avoid alcohol because, as one player put it, "It doesn't sit well with tennis." If at all, beer is the preferred alcoholic beverage after the game is over because it is thirst-quenching. Actor Charlton Heston, for instance, serves draft beer sent to him in kegs from Belgium along with deli sandwiches to those who stay on after the game. Desserts are almost equally displease Turn to Page 6, Col.

1 II III 1 1 II I. 1 I nllnAl TENNIS HOST Restaurateur Jean Leon and wife serve up exotic faro after sets of tennis at their home in Malibu every Sunday. Timfs photo by Kathleen Ballara.