The Argus from Fremont, California • Page 7

THE ARGUS Sunday, September 6, 1970 Fomon: Newark. California Page? Herring and Dickens-A a Part of Yarmouth Sdidltnbtrg. IH- tvrt writtr for Hit Womtn'i ef Tht Argvt, It cvrrtfltly vitlling ralitivti In Grttt Britain, iht ll finding much of interest in tht towns, and countryiidf. Thit it tht MC- end in a writs of ariiclei tht it writing about a land and culture at onct tht lamt and ytt to difftrtnt ram our own. By HELENSCHELLENBERG We first met Yarmouth on a rainy day a day just made for browsing in old bookstores.

And as we flipped through yellowed pages of musty volumes bearing publication dales centuries old, it seemed as if the world beyond the steamy windows was. the remote one, and this one here within these ancient book-lined walls the world that was alive and now. Because of the rain, the tourists had come up from the beaches and away from the promenade, and the sidewalks were thronged with raincoated figures scurrying along. It would not have been at all surprising if one of those figures had been David CopperficU coming into the shop for a volume or two -for it was In Yarmouth that Dickens created the famous character during a stay aijie nearby Royal Hotel. IN ONE slim leather-bound book, we scanned the lines of an old Scottish folk song (au- thor unknown), and we were reminded of how.

long before Copperficld. the of Yarmouth was famous for another reason the lowly herring. Oh it wat tint and a pl'ai- ant day, Out of Yarmouth harbour I wai faring, As a cabin boy on a fishing lugger, For to hunt Hie Bonny Shoals of herring." So ran the lines of the poem speaking of days past when the drifters (fishing boats) tied up alongside each other in Yarmouth harbour in such numbers that it was possible to walk across to Gorleston (three miles away) by stepping from one vessel to another. In seasons gone, as many as 500 million herring were brought to the docks in one autumn, and Scottish lassies by the hundreds followed the fishing fleets down the East Coast of England, gutting the herring as they went. The largest single day's catch was on October 23.

1907. when 72 million herring were delivered at the Yarmouth wharves. The average net carried in each herring boat was one-and-a-half miles long, and today the greatly diminished herring fleet still uses the same-sued nets. TODAY, the herring industry is in a bad way because the "Bonny Shoals" of the ballad no longer come down from the North Sea in such quantities because of over-fishing changes in currents. But the town is still famous for the Yarmouth Bloater, a salted and smoked herring which was processed quite by accident in 1835 when a her- ring-curcr discovered to his dismay that he had over-looked a portioa of his catch.

To save it. he tried sprinkling the herring with salt, splitting them, and hanging them up in his smoke-house where oak logs were slowly burning. The next morning he was surprised and delighted to find that his fish were fine in appearance and excellent in flavor. So the Yarmouth Bloater was bom." GLANCING UP from this colorful account, we saw that the sun had come out, so we made our way from the bookstore to the harbour. Here we saw the timber vessels unloading the cargo that now replaces the herring as a Yarmouth import.

Each ship flew different national flag, and the docks appeared festive and in a holiday mood as the cargo was swung ashore and stacked as high as a house long the wharves in sheds as big as aircraft hangars. At one end of the docks is Britannia Pier, which is 810 feet long and houses a huge theater, ballroom, and restaurant. On this now-sunny day. it was lined with strollers of all ages, and with fishermen. Speedboats darted in and out.

and from its railing we watched a tramp steamer crossing the bar. LEAVING THE pier, we mi nine went to the market place, where business flourishes in open stalls at the foot of the largest parish church in England. Saint Nicholas. This rhurch goes back to the Seventh Century, and has weathered many disasters. The first calamity came in the 14th Century, when the young men of Yarmouth decided to build an extension onto Saint Nicholas a wide aisle la be called Bachelor's Aisle.

The work was begun in 1HO and continued well until 1343. when the Black Death struck the town. All building ceased, and the intended aisle became a quarry from which later building was constructed. But the Bachelor's Aisle was never completed. Not far from Saint Nicholas in the market place is the Fisherman's Hospital, an almshouse built in 1702 to care for any fisherman who had reached the age of 60; it is still a haven for fishermen who have put up their nets for the last time.

The hospital has a number of tiny houses ranged around three sides nf a cobbled cloister, and in the TRAVELERS STILL COMING, AS SUMMER DRAWS TO A Dr. Alt, Family To Italy GOING CLOSE One by one travelers are reluming from abroad in time for the opening of Fremont and Newark schools th'u week. But when Dr. and Mrs. Frank D'Arcy Alt left their home here for Europe a few weeks ago, they knew they would not be coming back for months perhaps years.

After almost a decade as assistant superintendent of the Fremont Unified School District, Dr. Alt has taken a new post as coordinator of secondary education for the Mediterranean District of the American SchcooU, and he and his family will be living in Italy in a hilltop villa overlooking tb.e Bay of Naples. HIS WORK will take him to the most exciting and exotic i bordering the Mediterranean Sea, visiting American high schools for children of United States military and government personnel stationed abroad. In hie district, in addition to Italy, are Spain, Morocco. Ethiopia, Greece.

Sicily, Crete. Turkey, and the rest of Asia Minor. With Dmr. and Mrs. Alt are their two children, Malita.

11. and Lorraine, who is 7, former students at Parkmont Elementary School. The well- traveled Alts named their daughters from the countries in which they were bom -Malita on the Island of Malta, and Lorraine in Northern France. When the Alts left here, they new first to Indiana for a brief stay with both their families, and then on to New- York. Before going to Naples, they revisited Frankfurt.

Germany, Dr. Alt had been an administrator In the A i a Dependents' Schools before coming to Frr- mont. TO LAUNCH them successfully on their new adventure. Mr. and Jlrs.

John C. McDonald hosted a bon voyage party for Dr. and Mn. Alt In the McDonalds' Orchcard Drive home. than CO guests gathered to wish them well at the cocktail ftte.

and 24 were invited to stay on for the buffet dinner that tolled. This smiling Frtmont eouplt, Mr. and Mrs. Robtrt L. Morrow, post for tht photographer before boarding a World 1 Airways 707 jet at Oakland International Airport.

Members of a charter group sponsored by TV station KQEO, they flew nonstop to Amsterdam, and will return till this month. Their European itinerary in- at tht Paulan Play bi Obtramtrgau, and a visit with two former exchange students who lived in Fremont while studying under the auspices of tht A a Field Service Bemd Pfaligras, now living In Trabtn-Trabach, Germany, and Manfred Fichttr, a medical student in Munich. Vacationers Tour Hawaii, the West The "Santa Paula Newsletter" reveals that many members of the parish have been traveling to and fro this summer. Mr. and Mrs.

Neil Ruenzel flew to Wisconsin for a month to visit with their parents and other relatives, with a camping trip to Rhinelander as a vacation highlight. Making the journey with them were their son, Mark, who is 4, and 18-month-old daughter. Stephanie oh yes, and dog, Heidi. ALSO GOING northward were the Sal Lamagnai, who drove to Portland, Oregon, with their three children Dtbble. 18: Sal, and Dana, who Is 6 Hawaii is the vacation spot chosen by the Earl Currans; and to Tahot went Mr.

and Mrs. Tom Bogan, who occu- pied a cabin on the South Shore with their three youngsters, Dany, Cindy, and vid. Mr. and Mrs. John Gon- lales, with their three young daughters, Mylee, Josette, and Luwana, drove to Colorado to visit with Mr.

Gonzales' parents and help them celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary. BUT SAYING goodbye not to return were Mr. and Mrs. Hank Boecker. who kit the first of the month for Pennsylvania, where they will be making thtir ntw home with their children.

Diane, 10, IT. Mr. Boecker has served Santa Paula parish on tht executive council's finance committee, and Mrs. Boecker has played an effective role in the women's activities, particularly the brldje mirathon. (MIN.

4.00 LOAD) CLEANED OHLY LB. (MIN. 3.00 LOAD) FREMONT PLAZA 79347S3 CHMI til. i4 IM. airlH lim OFIN Otllr It 4: 10-1 center of the cloister is a statue representing Charity.

On the cast side of the hospital roof stands the figure of St. Peter, patron-saint of fishermen. THE REAL delight of a visit to Yarmouth, and one we will long remember, is a walk down one of the famous Yarmouth Rows. The Rows are nlley-Iike thoroughfares which were designed in the llUh Century as a solution to the population explosion. Originally, there 145 Rows seven miles of spooky arm's-length-wide lanes built at right angles to the sea, but the bombing raids of 1942 destroyed many of them.

The narrowest Row was called Kitty Witch, and was a mere two feet wide at its narrowest ends. Since the. Rows were used for business, a special fish trolley was designed just 'wide enough to squeeze through. Today, the remaining Rows shops, book stores, and china stores where tourist and na- In Fashion, Watch for shirt-dresses, denying their casualness by being made in fine white wool, gold lame, the thinnest of shim i metallic brocades. For alter-f ive, of course.

the cape in purple, and evening coats with Tartar looks, such as i tapestry edged and lined with white lamb, or beige suede with fox borders. the semi-sports look ol fine wool and leather, malec to form easy dresses. Or knil sweater-dresses, sashed with tasseled silk rope ankle- live alike can spend hours of soul-satisfying browsing. AS PICTURESQUE as the Rows are, even more fascinating are the Yarmouth Roads, shallow sea-channels where ships ride at anhcor between Yarmouth Beach and Scroby Sands. The Sands, a white sandy bar appearing at low tide which has been the cause of many tragic shipwrecks, have a heritage almost as colorful as the town itself.

In the 16th Century, the Sands had become seemingly settled, a grass-covered island, and a favorite place for summer-time excursions. Yarmouth wanted the island for its own, but the Lord of the Manor considered the land his. A hot dispute raged until one night the quarrel was settled by the fury of a storm which washed the island away completely. It wasn't until 1922 that the Scroby Sands once again rose out of the water to become visible at low tide. a is bounded at the north and south ends by what the natives call "The Denes," sand and grass dunes now occupied by the largest caravan (trailer) parks we had ever seen endless rows of mobile homes of vacatio- Each "caravan camp" has its own shopping center, a theater, a children's playground, and a medical center.

In addition to the South Dene Caravan Camp, the lofty statue erected in memory of Horatio, Lord Nelson stands guard over the southern entrance to Yarmouth, a monument 144 feel high with more than 200 steps to climb for a breathless and breath-taking view of the harbour. THERE IS so much to see in Yarmouth that it would take many holidays to do it justice, and for this reason, the "carriage-ways" into In; town arc lined with cars bumper to bumper on the weekends. There is a ruling in English resort towns that those leaving the town must do so by ending their holiday at noon. Those coming into the resorts must arrive after 2:30 that is, if over-night accommodations are exp Chalets, bed-and- breakfast places, and hotels arc given the mid-afternoon to clean up and prepare for the new onslaught of tourists. The final push for tourists is Bank Holiday, which is the last Monday in August.

Then the natives stay clear of all resorts, Yarmouth included, because among the thousands descending will be a number of "Skinheads" what we would call in America teenage delinquents. Heads cropped, the Skinheads are looking for what the English call "aggravation," and the police have a unique way of settling any trouble. They-either cut the suspenders of a Skinhead trouble-maker so that his trousers fall down, or they snip his shoelaces, thereby aborting a hasty retreat. AFTER Bank Holiday, Yarmouth and other English seaside towns settle down for a quiet winter. The population in Yarmouth drops from a choking 175,000 to a more peaceful 55,000.

And among those carrying away memories of a happy holiday will be many Americans, and at least one Fre- monter. In the quiet of their own winter night at home, many tourists, including this one, will want to read again Defoe's "Robinson Crusoe" -for it was Yarmouth on the East Coast of England that provided the setting for the opening chapters of that classic. Or perhaps it will be a re-, acquaintance with "Black Beauty," read with added enjoyment remembering a visit paid one afternoon to the home of the authoress (Anna Sewell) which still stands in a Market Place. PERMANENT AND FROSTING SPECIALS PERMANENTSReg.22.oo NOW 15.50 Reg. ,7.50 12.50 FROSTING Reg.

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