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The Baltimore Sun from Baltimore, Maryland • 29

The Baltimore Suni
Baltimore, Maryland
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THE SUN, Friday, May 30, 1980 bv dav: D3, Delicious sandwiches, but downhill from there 5 0 4 ft '1 4 Wfeekend 7 TP mm By Elizabeth Large 4 A i tit I lii 4k I k1 It 1 rj 4 'J it. it inmirninvumriitifflrimfrm rMijtoVMiv iwnHirin uTimii nTtnif Ursula Von Eydingsvard's "Untitled" Institute shoe company building, draws attention of photographer Alssatoa Mijiia, Carving out a larger role for sculpture cedar sculpture, going on display at Maryland Wednesday. This event organized by Mr. Stern, who is associate professor of art at the University of Maryland Baltimore County, will involve more than 30 artists with performances, wind sculpture installations, kinetic paintings, earthworks and other assorted free-flowing projects. Jim McWilliams, for example, will suspend Charlotte Moorman and her microphone-bearing cello from helium balloons Wednesday in "Sky Kiss for Baltimore." Mr.

Stern will create rainbows from 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday with the aid of a fireboat in the harbor. In addition to the sculpture exhibits at the Maryland Institute, the Holtzman Art Gallery at Towson State will host work by Bort'i Belvedere Deli, in the Belvedere Towers, Falls road at Northern Parkway; open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., closed Sunday; no credit cards accepted.

You would think a delicatessen in the Belvedere Towers, with its built-in clien-tele plus potential Roland Park customers, couldn't help succeeding. One owner alter another has tried. After the last deli Eater's digest folded, a personable young man named Bart Weil completely redid the basement dining area and a couple of months ago opened Bart's Belvedere Deli. Bart, as everyone calls him, has had a varied professional history in Baltimore. He worked at one of the Belvedere Towers delis and then moved on to the delicatessen at Cross Keys, had several similar jobs downtown, managed a Yogurt Tree, and finally ended up at the Cafe des Artistes for 14 months.

That last may be why you find items like "crudites" on his menu. When Bart bought it, the delicatessen la the Belvedere Towers was dirty and neglected. The once-thriving lunch business had fallen off. He had the small dining room completely redecorated, with lots of wood paneling, carpeting, globe lights and a hanging fern. The tables are draped in pink, and a tiny dried grass arrangement decorates each one.

Bart's Belvedere Deli is more than a delicatessen and less than a restaurant It has six different omelettes served with toasted bagels and cream cheeses for breakfast (or any time). It has every kind of sandwich you might want, from a Tuna Melt to chopped chicken liver. It has homemade soups and desserts, a quiche du jour and three different dinners that Diners in Bart's Belvedere Deli. I i i ij 1 change nightly. The evening my husband and I ate, there the specials were baked chicken, meat loaf and broiled filed of sole.

(You can also buy half a pound of roast beef or a dozen eggs). Bart's Belvedere Deli is the kind of place you want to see succeed. The owner and staff couldn't be nicer, and the place has more personality than many sandwich shops. Fd be less than honest, however, if I didn't say that our meal could have used quite a bit of improvement A good place to begin would be to hire another waitress before the one handling 10 tables by herself drops dead from exhaustion. We couldn't try everything on the menu; but from our limited sampling, the sandwiches are the best bet My husband ordered a variation on a club, with chicken salad instead of sliced chicken (13.50).

The big chunks of mostly white meat chicken were stacked with lettuce, tomato and bacon so crisp it shattered. Served with the usual pickles and potato chips, It was a very filling and thoroughly satisfying sandwich. Bart's also had hamburgers, hot dogs and such concoctions as a Monte Cristo (ham turkey, swiss cheese, with Dijon mustard deep fried). If you don't want a' sandwich, you might have better luck with the quiche du jour (13.25) than I did. It had started off beautifully: exemplary pastry and a custard filling with ham and onion.

Unfortunately my slice had been reheated too long, or cooked too long in the first place. With the quiche came a salad, a generous one with lots of fresh vegetables and even a black olive. The only dressing made on the premises was the Russian, our waitress told us. Fd try one of the commercial ones next time. We had planned to begin our meal with the soup of the day, cream of mushroom (85 cents) and the crudites-raw vegeta-bles-with a special dip I say "planned to begin" because our waitress brought the quiche and sandwich first She was apologetic, and the soup and vegetables arrived a few minutes later.

The soup was respectable; it just didn't contain much in the way of mushrooms or cream. As for the crudites, the composed vegetables for the most part looked very pretty; but for some reason the broccoli and cauliflower had been cooked and with the result that the cauliflower bad discolored and both were limp. Our waitress said the special dip was cucumber, sour cream and cream cheese. It was too thin for a dip, and I would have guessed yogurt; still, the flavor was appealing. I would have liked it as a dressing on my salad.

Bart bakes pies for dessert: apple, cherry and coconut cream that evening. Because we had had the quiche, we decided instead on homemade chocolate cake and Bart's own invention, bagel pudding. The chocolate cake was filled with the kind of cream you spell "creme," but it was moderately enjoyable. The bagel pudding wasn't The problem with substituting bagels for bread in bread pudding is that they don't soak up the custard. When the pudding is baked, the bagel pieces rise to the top and form a tooth-defying crust.

So it wasn't a completely successful meal. But how many people order crudites in a delicatessen anyway? Or for that matter, bagel pudding? If we'd just stuck to sandwiches, I imagine we wouldn't have had any complaints about the new deli. As it was, our investment was $13 before tip. A day worth a thousand By Linda Lowe Morris Man's spirit cannotbe shut off from nature and from beauty unless civilization is prepared to pay a bitter price. the worth of beauty is greater than the passing pleasure it affords.

-Orville L. Freeman, former U.S. secretary of agriculture 0 It was just reward. For the women of the Garden Club of America to have such gorgeous sky-blue, grass-green days for their Zone VI annual meeting out at St Timothy's School in Gardener's gazette Stevenson this week, it was surely deservedafter all the beauty they've quietly given us. There are 13 clubs from throughout the state and District of Columbia included in Zone VI, and they count among their many contributions garden therapy projects for the handicapped and for school children, Save Our Streams conservation programs, scholarships for students at the Maryland Ornithological Society nature camp; lob km ill Sun Pholo-Jtd Klndttwini Art Process at the Municipal Level" day and Tuesday at School 33, 1427 Light street Speakers include George Sugir, man, Kenneth Snelson, Norman Carlterj, Reuben Kramer, Jay Brodie, Paula Roma, Bennard Perlman, Ms.

Albright and Ms. Jacquot-all involved In dialogues about the city's support of art Participants, who can still register by calling 243-4311, will also tour the city to study public art Many of the numerous sculptural at public sites are now documented In handsome booklet by Leslie Freudenbeta entitled "Baltimore's Public Art, 19M- 1980," which has just been published by the Maryland Institute and will to ava able next week. thank yous Mm Zealand spinach and pumpkin. 1 To obtain a free list of vegetable tet mg dates spring and tail, stop ty or eai your local office of the Maryland Coopera tive Extension Service. Keep an eye on the early vegetables so you don't miss the best moment to harvest.

Cauliflower, especially, may be too old before you know it 1 Once the cool-season vegetables the peas, radishes, onions and lettuce are harvested, fill the empty spaces with sue-' cession plantings of warm-weather crops. And when the blossoms on your potato drop, dig under the first couple of plants in the row and steal a few small new potatoes for supper. 0- A lot of gardeners like to give tMr 1 houseplants a summer vacation out of doors, and most plants seem to thrive on 1 it But be careful when you first put them out Leaves developed in low-light conditions indoors can be too tender to face the blazing sun. Place the plants in the shade for a few days to let them get acclimated. The ones that can tolerate the strong light can then 1 be moved into the sun.

Others may be bet- ter off left in the shade. the menu. D'Joint passed easily. The cost of a three-course dinner ranges from $5 to $6.50, and the portions are so large that most women leave the restaurant carrying neatly folded bowserconservation bags. But what about those leftovers? Gener ally, I have found that carryout fried chicken that tastes good when it is hot tastes terrible when it is cold.

Conserving a couple of fried chicken wings from my carryout meal until the next morning. I found it was still crisp and delicious. I also warmed up a portion of the greens and stringbeans I had saved, took the potato salad out of the refrigerator ami had my self quite a soulful breakfast. Night on the town ByEarlArnett Baltimore win live up to its Nineteenth Century nickname, "Monumental City," during June with an extraordinary schedule of exhibits, workshops and other events devoted to the art of sculpture. Fred Lazarus IV, president of the Maryland Institute of Art, believes that "there will be more sculptors exhibited simultaneously than anyplace in America at any other time I can think of." More than 200 sculptors from Canada and 17 states in addition to Maryland will center their work and attention in the Baltimore metropolitan area.

The occasion is a "preconference" for the 11th International Sculpture Conference, scheduled June 4-7 in Washington. James Paulsen, a sculptor who teaches at Towson State University, suggested to this body that Baltimore could serve as an ideal staging area where sculptors could exhibit talk and observe public art programs first hand before the conference's scheduled formalities in Washington. He and about half a dozen fellow artists in this area started working on the idea and assembled a steering committee including Mary Ann Mears, Sandra Hill-man, Walter Sondheim, Jody Albright, Edwin Daniels, Norman Carlberg, Tylden Streett, Fred Stern, Margot Milch, Amalie Rothschild, Diana Jacquot, James Earl Reid and Mr. Lazarus. The result of their planning is a multifaceted event that involves the cooperation of 4 colleges and universities, 17 corporate sponsors, the Maryland Arts Council, National Endowment for the Arts and scores of local artists.

The Maryland Institute invited the 40 nationally known sculptors exhibiting at the Washington conference to recommend new talents who in turn were invited to exhibit in Baltimore. More than SO replied and sent their works, which will be displayed along with about 50 Maryland works from June 3-26 at the institute's renovated shoe factory. Twelve of the larger works will be exhibited at the Inner Harbor, which will also be the setting for "Conceptual and Events Day," beginning Tuesday evening and extending through If the spare ribs are excellent I strip every bit of meat from the bones and devour it ravenously, if they are merely good or less, I take one bite and then fill myself on side orders of potato salad and greens. When the waiter arrived at my table, the rhapsody of pungent spices bombarding my nostrils immediately told me that I was about to feast upon a banquent of spare ribs. The platter of ribs was cooked well done, and the thick, zesty sauce wrapped around them looked and smelled as though it packed a one-two punch the sauce hits the palate first with hot spices and then cools out your tastebuds with sweetness.

The sauce was an excellent members of the Johnson Atelier Technical Institute of Sculpture June 2-30. Monday's opening ceremonies at 7:30 p.m. will feature slide lectures by Brian Wall and Robert Bourden, who'll be giving workshops through Wednesday on metal fabrication of sculpture and laminated wood sculpture, respectively. The University of Maryland at College Park will host workshops on clay modeling, mold making and wood carving as well as an exhibit entitled "Sculpture Today: Traditional and Non-Traditional" June 1-29 at the university's art gallery. Ms.

Mears, whose sculptures adorn three public sites, will chair a special workshop entitled "Baltimore, the Public bying in behalf of conservation legislation, maintenance work at Ladew Gardens and innumerable beautification projects at historic areas, parks and public buildings. Few of us know who to thank for these things. And so they deserved such a beautiful day a day that caused one member, standing under a century-old copper beech and looking up through the purple-green leaves at a clear blue sky, to pause and say, "It's moments like this where I wouldn't mind dropping dead." 0 Sunday at the Irvine Natural Science Center, staff member Chris Fastie will lead a workshop on Organic Vegetable Gardening beginning at 1 p.m. The center is on the campus of St. Timothy's School, ono mile north of the Beltway on Greenspring avenue.

For more information about the workshop or the many nature programs for the young and old at the center, call 484-2413. 0 If there's space left in your garden-keep planting. There's still time to put in more lima and snap beans, sweet corn, beets, melons, swiss chard, cucumbers, eggplant, tomatoes, leaf lettuce, peppers, squash, New lounge at D'Joint, 6800 Liberty road. ahead of schedule, I found my order waiting on the counter, scorching hot and ready to go. Rushing home with my sample, I found the breast dinner I had ordered to be superbly fried.

Attached to the large breast was a wing, my favorite part of the chicken, that proved to be quite good. The stringbeans and macaroni and cheese were well cooked and seasoned. I also had a side order of barbecued chicken wings, which proved to be succulent and finger-licking good. My only disappointment was that my carryout order did not include any of D' Joint's delicious rolls. Test No.

3 for a "soul food" restaurant is the tastiness of the side orders of potato salad, salads, greens other vegetables on You can eat, drink and be cozy at D9 Joint I. Douglass or ostentation among the patrons. In fact all the people patronizing Joint's lounge during my frequent visits there have been too intent on having fun to worry about showing off. The lounge is designed to encourage intimacy, with all the seats huddled closely together so that conversation spills over from table to table. When you are sitting so close to your neighbors, you have to be extremely antisocial to keep from striking up a conversation.

1 It is easy to make new friends at D'Joint and many spur-of-the-moment parties begin when friends meet there The rhythm method over hefty drinks, beer or wine and someone extends an invitation to his nearby home. The parking lot is always crowded at D'Joint, but service inside the restaurant is efficient Since most items are prepared from scratch, you will get an opportunity to settle down, have a drink and enjoy the ambience, definitely not of the fern-bar variety. Be sure to ask the waiter to bring your hot buttered rolls right away, so you can sink your teeth into them while waiting for your food. I could have made a meal out of the rolls alone, but I decided to try barbecued spare ribs, potato salad and collard greens. The inviting menu also lists chitterlings, barbecued chicken, southern fried chicken and fried fish.

To me, the No. 1 test of a "soul food" restaurant is the quality of its spare ribs. I rarely eat pork and, generally when I do I eat spare ribs and prepare them myself to ensure that they are thoroughly cooked under the most immaculate conditions. So, I usually order spare ribs when I begin rating a restaurant to determine if I will ever return there again. By Frederick Joint; 6000 Liberty road; open 4 p.m.

to 2 a.m. Monday through Sunday; wide variety of soul foods available; mixed drinks, $1.50 to J2.50, beer, $1, and wine; 298-2333 for reservations or carryout food orders. D'Joint, a restaurant and cocktail lounge that is rapidly becoming the hub of social activities among affluent blacks who have migrated to the Liberty road corridor in Baltimore county, is also drawing scores of whites to the premises to dine upstairs on soul-satisfying food or have a drink in the cozy downstairs lounge. The curious thing about integration in the Baltimore metropolitan area is that while blacks freely frequent white-oriented entertainment establishments, whites tend to feel intimidated about going to places where blacks are substantially in the majority. Of course, whites and blacks mix freely at the weekly concerts presented by the Left Bank Jazz Society, but whites seem hesitant to go elsewhere.

D'Joint nestled in the relatively neutral grounds of strip commercial development along Liberty road above Northern parkway, has been open less than a year, but it looks as though it will follow in the footsteps of the Left Bank and become a place where people of all races, creeds and colors will feel comfortable to go to wine and dine in style. D'Joint is an excellent restaurant the downstairs has even greater social importance as a popular after-work and late-evening watering hole. The lounge, a favorite hangout for people who live nearby, generally attracts a crowd heavy with graduates of Morgan State and Howard universities and other colleges in the Baltimore-Washington area. Despite the fact that the crowd tends to be affluent and well educated, the atmosphere is relaxed and casual There is no snobbery Patrons gather around the bar in the downstairs complement to the spare ribs, which were so tender they flaked with a fork. The potato salad and collard greens also were tasty.

Test No. 2 is the fried chicken. To to my taste, chicken should be fried very" crisp and the meat should be well done. The crust of the chicken should begin to crumble when the meat is picked up with the fingers (yes, it's OK to eat chicken at Joint with your fingers) and the crust should not be soaked with grease. To further complicate my testing of D'Joint, I phoned my order in so I could find out about the efficiency of the carryout service.

Arriving at the D'Joint five minutes.

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