Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • 49

Section 2 -15 13 Section 2 ttir Features Chicago Tribune Tuesday, December 21, 1971 Classified Ads to the neuu perfume OP s) ys immmmmmmmmt rL w.whwx ffi 1 vvmfwvn i xi- (j Winter Challenge New York RAFFLES, THE private New York night club, has challenged Annabel's, its London counterpart, to a series of winter sports competitions in St. Moritz at the end of February. There'll be skiing, bobsledding, and skating. Oh, what fun! Mark Birley, the chap who runs Annabel's, is terribly proud of his ski team, but Bud Palmer, chairman of the Raffles winter sports committee, has a few surprises up his little old sleeve. Maybe that should be big old sleeve he's about 6-foot-12.

Among those representing Raffles on the slopes will be Thomas Hoving, Mrs. Harding Lawrence Mary Wells, James VV. King, William M. White, Rosemary Kanzler, Richard Cowell, Count Theo Rossi of the Vermouth Rossis, Louis Bo Polk, Mrs. William Prox-mire, Mrs.

Thomas Kempnor, Mrs. Dudley Cates, Mrs. John S. Pershing, and Mrs. Dunaway de Figuieredo.

Whether they fall on their bottoms or star, they'll be doing it in front of a tippy-toe audience. End of February to mid-March is chic time In St. Moritz, altho the gang that hangs around the lobby of the Palace and clutters up some of the local chalets still needs editing. THE THIRD benefit performance of "Nicholas and Alexandra" benefiting the Arthritis Foundation was a sellout and, after that was over, guests repaired to a champagne supper dance at the Plaza to see Jack Benny give Rosalind' Russell, the honorary chairman of the benefit, the Floyd B. Odium award for her help in the fight against arthritis.

Roz was dazzling in a white crepe Galanos he's her petty-pet-pet designer traced with rhinestones in a leaf design. She did light up the room, the precious girl. Among the guests were Johnny Carson who favored the audience along with Jack Benny, Mrs. Arthur Gardner, Mrs. William Woodward, Betsy Theodoracopoulos, the Joshua Lockwood Logans, the Lloyd Hilton Smiths, the Stephane Groueffs, Maria Goulandris with Jerome Robert Zipkin, Mrs.

Byron Foy, and the Richard Deemses. Mr. Deems was chairman of the benefit. BING CROSBY gave his adorable wife, Kalhryn, a silver Mercedes for Christmas, with red leather seats and everything you can think of. Kathryn gave Bing a complete set of Louis Vuitton luggage, because his Gucci was bent out of shape.

His Gucci luggage, that is. BEENE 1 XX-X-PSSX'X-X-Xl i i'. BY EVELYN LIVINGSTONE MEMO TO procrastinating Santas: Hie yourselves down to the perfume counters for fail safe gifts that are sure to please. "When in doubt, buy perfume" has long been a successful gift formula that's still valid this year. If the lady in your life is devoted to a single scent, then that's what Santa should deliver on Dec.

25th. But if there's a doubt about what perfume it should be, think in terms of newcomers on the market, which in addition to tantalizing scents, have the excitement of being different. Four of the new entries in this country in 1971 come from houses whose names are also associated with fashion Vivra by Molyneux; Madame and Mademoiselle by Philippe Venet; and Givenchy III, all from Paris, and Geoffrey Beene of New York. Two others are Orgia from the famed Barcelona house of Myrurgia and Albacri from the small but ancient house of De Soisel in Grasse, France. All look as if they are heading for the heights.

Still rated as newcomers to the fragrance field, tho they're several years old and well on their way to becoming American classics, are Estee, the superperfume by Estee Lauder, and Norell from Revlon. Vivra by Molyneux for the woman "who dares to live" is a marvelous medley of tropical plants, fragrant woods, and sensuous Bulgarian roses with background notes of tea flowers, sour-sweet orange blossoms, and a secret spice. Venet's Mademoiselle is young a bright, breezy fragrance with floral overtones and the kind of freshness associated with beautiful sports clothes. Madame from the same house is headier, more sophisticated, with a subtle romantic feeling. Gwenchy III is cool and contemporary, its refreshing citrus notes beautifully balanced by such florals as jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley.

American designer Geoffrey Beene likes unexpected contrasts, so his first perfume concentrates on a brilliant interplay of essences subtle greens and florals with just a whiff of the Oriental. Myrurgia's Orgia pronounced or-hee-ah, the Spanish word that signifies a profusion of things in the case of this perfume means many flowers, many lights, nfany sounds. Albacri from De Soisel of Grasse, the small perfume house that dates back to Napoleon's time, is a light, sweet floral, that's young, delicate, and feminine. Estee by Estee Lauder, is a nontimid scent for the woman who wants to make her presence felt. It's described as an "explosion of precious ingredients whose impact is instant, whose message is unmistakable." Utterly contemporary in character, it won't bring back memories of something sweet that grandma used to wear.

Classic elegance that's the Norell fashion credo which has bred a cult of ardent followers who wouldn't have it any other way followers who are now also mad for Norell by Revlon, the designer's first perfume a lilting floral that also manages to be sophisticated and contemporary. All are available at Marshall Field Company, with a majority also available at leading specialty stores. 4v Tracy Hepburn-Part III Kate 's Not Exactly 'The Girl Next Door TOMORROW: i Timothy Bottoms left and Ben Johnson in "The Last Picture Show." Flying high crossed fingers. None. "I swear to you that I have not seen it.

'Memory of Cary was wavering, but I could see he was unconvinced Apparently, she could see it, too, because she went on, her hand still pledged, in fact, moving even higher as she proclaimed, "I swear it to you on my mother's life!" Carv blanched. Npvpr The Movies As it was ending, she left in the same way. Two nights later, at a dinner party at the Goldwyns', we encountered Cary. He saw us, standing in a corner of the sitting room, waved, and started toward us. "Careful," Kate warned thru her nose.

'Well," said Cary, puffed up with confidence. "How'd you like it?" "Like what asked Kate, using one of her melting at the Paris Lido Last Picture Show! As she played utter confu- sisting. It's enervating." sion, getting her body into, it "You're lying." said Cary nun, i uwugiK auc a uui gu- "ancj i can prove It. mind Cary. I thought was At the word "Ivine" Kate onino tn faint nig iu uy iu ueai mis one, is she? gasped as tho he had uttered when she looked from him to iooks trom "Little Women "I didn't see your new pic- jvu iivm auuic uusuedriiiuic me.

uvuiv uiuptanauiv jut; "My picture," said Cary. ture last night." Kate said obscenitv. BY GENE SISKEL MOVIES, BOOKS, and plays have at least one quality in common. If they so desire, and are well made, they can transport us to a world of their own making. They permit us to eavesdrop on people of another place and time from the emotional safety of a theater seat or favorite chair.

And the effect that the best impatient for praise. "My calmly. "Cary," she said softly had returned from its mis ninhirp'" i i in her solemn, royal voice, sion up there. Cary's jaw tightened "Your picture?" she asked "I swear to you that I have "I'm sorry. Kate." he said.

A k9 iuu uiu, iva LC not seen your picture, In Some stupid bastard wnu nidi uny, oewnaerea said, headshake that had laid me Not at all. Loving Memory thought he Well, never low when I first saw her do Cary slunk away, but before I could say a word. "Kate I said later. "Is something the matter?" "That oath "What?" "With Cary. That oath you took with Cary.

About seeing his picture. I mean not seeing his picture." "What picture?" she asked. Her shoes were off and her feet were up over the dashboard. She seemed to be sitting on the back of her neck. How could she forget such a thing? I took several deep breaths.

"Kate," I said. "You swore on your mother's life!" "Oh, thatV she said. "Yes," I said. "That." She waved her cigaret at me. "Nothing.

It's an arrangement I have with my mother. She swears on my life, too. All the time." I went once with Kate to look at a house she was thinking of renting. She walked thru the entire place twice. The first time, swiftly; the second time, slowly.

The rental agent and I waited in the downstairs hall. The wait stretched out. "Where is she?" he asked. "I don't know." He looked thru the gardens, and I searched out front, thinking she might have left by another exit. Finally, she came down the stairs.

'Memory of said mind. I do apologize. For She made herself taller, looked down at him with her it in "Alice Adams." TRIBUNE MINIREVIEW Beyond Nostalgia Cary give me." her "Of course. No matter, her ut course. io matter, 'Memory of said "Stage-Door" hauteur and oaiu oiagc-iuui nduiKur auu "Yes.

ine raised Cary. "My new picture you said, "You are mistaken, right hand to the ceiling and dear," she graciously re-saw last nieht. Carv. and VOIl must stnn in- nA i saw last night." Cary, and you must stop in- to God. possibly I looked for plied.

of such narratives achieve is to leave us, at their conclusion, hungering for more, wanting to know how their characters' lives turned out. Whatever happened, for example, to Bobby Dupea after he hitched a ride on that truck at the end of "Five Easy Like few films in recent years, Peter Bogdanovich's "The Last Picture Show" ends with us wanting to see more of the people who occupy the small town world 'THE LAST PICTURE SHOW" Directed by Peter Bogdanovich, screenplay by Larry McMurtry and Bogdanovich based on McVurtry's novel, photographed by Robert Surtees, designed by Polly flatt, produced by Stephen J. Friedman, i Columbia release at the Esquire Theater. Rated R. THE CAST BY GARSON KAMN BETTY COMDEN and Adolph Green are fascinated with the idea that Kate lives right next door.

Betty asks, "What kind of neighbor is she, anyway? I mean does she come in and borrow a cup of sugar once in a while or She is interrupted by a sound from the kitchen. The swinging door slams open. There stands Kate wearing a wild wig and carrying two others. She asks Ruth, "Look, what do you think of this? For Viola. Oh, hell, you can't see it in this silly candlelight.

Put some lights on." She puts on all the bright lights in the room. She models the wig, drops to the floor, takes the wig off, puts on another one, stands up, swivels around, sits down, changes for a third time. "Now what do you think?" she asks. Ruth is about to speak when she says, "Well, think about it, will you, and let me know? I mean which one of the three do you think?" She notices, for the first time, there are other people in the room. She smiles her most charming smile and says, "Nice to have met you all." She is gone.

Ruth turns to Betty and asks, "Does that answer your question?" Cary Grant had made a new picture, "Memory of Love" with Carole Lombard. It had not as yet been released. For reasons of her own had she turned it down? I did not ask, Kate was eager to see it. Since the picture had been made at RKO, where I was employed, it was easy to arrange a confidential private screening, ostensibly for myself, in the home of a company executive who had a projection room. Kate, wearing sunglasses and scarf, entered the house thru a side door.

We ran the picture. Sonny Crawford Timothy Bottoms Duane Jackson Jell Bridges Cybill Shepherd Ben Johnson Cloris Leachman Ellen Burstyn Eileen Brennan Jacy Farrow Sam the Lion Ruth Popper Lois Farrow Genevieve il if i 5 th "Where were you? I asked. "Taking a shower," she replied. "A shower?" "Of course." "You couldn't wait until you got home, or don't you have facilities there?" "Listen, you ass," she said, with little patience. "If I'm thinking of renting a house, I've got to find out what it's like taking a show-er in it, don't At that moment it seemed logical, even to me.

that is Anarene, in 1951. This emotion is not easily achieved. It is a result of a thoro Peyton Place investigation into Anarene's bedrooms, parked cars, football games, movie theater, restaurant, and pool hall. The thread that connects all of the people we meet in Anarene is Sonny Crawford, an innocent and well-meaning high school senior who, in the course of our one year in his life, learns about love, thru an affair with the coach's wife; coquetry, thru a romance with the prettiest girl in town; and friendship, thru superior, subordinated, and peer relationships with a retarded boy, an old man who is the moral force of the town, and a classmate. Shot in black-and-white and filled with the cotintry-and-western songs, clothes, cars, and movies of the period, "The Last Picture Show," on one level, is very good nostalgia.

But there also is a lot of experimentation with love and caring and honesty. Eventually, it is the abundance of these emotions that take "The Last Picture Show" beyond nostalgia into the realm of a moral experience. As the picture ends, we got the feeling that Sonny is discovering the value of making and keeping deep commitments to other human beings. "The Last Picture Show" is only the second feature film by 31-year-old Bogdanovich "Targets," his first, is being revived in New York City, Aside from his obvious control of the medium, he displays an extraordinary ability to cast faces that match dialog and plot situations. The ensemble acting of the entire cast is always excellent.

Credit for the authentic look of the film must be shared between Bogdanovich and his production designer Polly Piatt. "The Last Picture Show" is certain to do for the clothing of the '50s what "Bonnie and Clyde" did for the fashions of the '30s. I'm hunting for a western shirt with flap pockets fastened with mother-of-pearl snaps. And I'm also wondering what has become of Sonny. I know Anarene, very well now, and I very much want to connect with its people.

I piess I'll have to see the movie again and do a little dreaming. Before renting a house, Katharine Hepburn gave it an audition she took a shower in it .1 1 I I tin U.tM Mlul, Smtfc tin. I REAL PARTlIP6E5 VM ELP0M FALL OUT OF PEAR TREES Good Morning It's belter to go ahead and tell the truth (han try to remember what you said..