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The Hamilton Examiner from Hamilton, Ohio • Page 2

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Hamilton, Ohio
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2
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6 A EUROPEAN SOJOURN IN JAPAN. PKOM I A I IJEKT, SWISS 1 I IN A A At daybreak, on the 26th of April. THE HAMILTON GUIDON-THTTHSDAY, JANUARY. 7. 1875 on hoard the Dutch corvi-tti Koopmatii caug'il sight 'of the six small a i islands which look i ol the of Ycddo.

One of Mvakesima, is remarkable for a lotu and broad peuk covered i pcipeti' al snow. The sun soon lose on the horizon, and presented, through the sea fog, the appearance ol'the crimson globe, i depicted on a i ground, forms the national arms ol Japan. Its first rays lighted up the point of Cape Idsu, on the mainland of Nippon, on the larboard, while, on the we saw the smoke ascending from the two craters ot the island ot Ohosima. The town of Simoda, at the extremity of a little bay in the promontory of Idsu, is the first but least important, of the seats ol commerce i is met in ascending the Gulf of Ycddo. The Americans obtained permission from the Government to form a settlement here in 1854..

Subsequently the roadstead was destroyed by an earthquake, and this town was not included in the treaty of 1858. Along the coast we perce.ved a of fishing boats. and some larger vessels coming from Nippon and the i iblands. 'This animated picture presents a remarkable harmony of coloring; the sky is of a dazzling azure, and the sea. no longer ol that dark blue color which shows a g'eat depth ol water, is of a green shade, and possesses that peculiar limpidity which charac- terises the rocky coast ot a a The islands clothed in the brilliant of spring, the dark brown rocks brightened streaks of ochie, contrasting with'the white sails of the native vessels, the snows of Mvakesima.

and the smoking crater of Ohosima. combine to form a most charming picture. After passing the volcanic island, on which we observed wooded hills, and even some cultivated fields and villages, we doubled Cape Saga mi and entered a narrow channel called the Uraga Canal. Uraga is the town which Commodore Perry v'sited with his squadron in 1853. The Amer ican envoy explained the object of his mission to the delegates of the japan ese government, and gave them a letter for the Tycoon, with which tin- President of the United States had entrusted him, infoiming them at the same time that he would return foi an answer the following year.

On his second visit, in 1854, he resjsted the attempts of the governor of Uniga to detain him before that port, and pressed on with his squadron to ward- Ycddo; but not wishing to outrage the national susceptibilities, he cast anchor eight miles to the south of the capital. Six weeks later, on the 31 st of March, 1854, he bisjned the treaty of Kanagawa. which inaugurated new relations between Japan and the west ern world. The recollection ot this successful mission is preserved in the names of the various places which we passed. Above Uraga is Susquehanna Bay; opposite, on the eastern coast.

there IP Cape Saratoga, and higher lip, on the western side. Mississippi river, our vessel selected an anchorage near the Dutch legation, which was at that time the only European dwelling in that part of the a i town. 1 disembarked the following morning, and my kind host, M. de 1'olsbroek, consul-general, installed me in dc tached i i i iie occupied himself. The residence in Hi-nteii was i by the a a i took a a a ol he i to solve an i ng i a i a problem, a the mlability of a i architecture to the a of a people.

The principle i i lorms a long a i composed of two high walls, i gables on the east and west, and two fong. low side-fronts on the north and Bay these three names being those ot the principal vessels which formed the American squadron. Perry and Webster Islands, on the west const, perpetuate the fame of the commodore of the expedition and of the celebrated secretary of state who was its- originator. Opposite Cape Saratoga there is a sand bank, which has been the cause of many and reduces the navigable ciianiu-1 to six niiles in width. We soon entered the B-iy of Yeddo, which gradually extends to the north cast south-west until it is about thirty miles in length.

and treminates in a semi-circle ol twenty-two miles in diameter from east to west, on which is situated the immense capital of Japan. It was at Mississippi Bay that we first saw the summit of Fusi-Yama, "tiie unparalleled mountain," an extinct volcano which rises to the heighth of 12.450 feet above the sea. It is about tilty nautical miles from the western coast of the bay, and completely isolated, the exception of the chain oi hills of Akoni at its base. It is almost impossible to describe the effect o( this solitary pyramid, covered with snow. It gives an air of great solemnity to the landscapes of the Bav of Yeildo, which independently of this are of a sterner character than those of the This is caused by the closer proximity of the two shores, the slightly nr.rMv appearance of the water, and thr number of cedars pines, and oilier gloomy looking trees crest the bills along the banks.

At we doubled Treaty Point, a picturesque promontory, where the agreement was signed between Commodore Perry jiiitl the Tycoon's deputies: ami then the Yokohama. extending along a shore, and enclosed on the south and west by wooded hills bu suddenly on ou About twenty ships ol war and merchant of various conn- tries were riding in the baibor, ncaih opposite tbe Frank quarter, which we recognized by its white houses and the flags ol tVic various consulates. Some native junks were anchored at a little distance from 'be pier bead an'l cns- We steamed slowly past the Japanese city, the houses in which, with the exception of some of the arc ot wood, and appear consist of only one story above the ground-8oor. When we arrived the Benten quarter, situated at the of the beach, and at the mouth of a large They are i partly of bricks and partly of wood and clay. A spacious wooiten verandah, like those of the Swiss chalets, tiie north, east, and-west sides, and is.

intersected at each front by a graceful portico leading to the garden. Every room in the bouse opens upon this verandah with gias folding-doors, which take the nlace of windows. There art- four of these doors on the east side, i are entirely occupied by the sitting-room, and eight on the north. The principle entrance is on the west front. It opens into a wide, lofty corridor, leading to the sitting-room, and communicating with the other apartments, which are all independent ot each other, a i each two doors, one opening into the corridor, and the other into the verandah.

The south side contains the kitchen, pantry, cellar, and several and bath-rooms. The loftiness of the ceil and the size of the lobby and kitchen, secure a free circulation of ai The light is a good deal intercepted by the verandah; but this is remedied," to some extent, by the ber of glass doors. Such was the ground floor of our dwelling at Bui- trn; and. in fact, the whole of it, for the rest of the immense structure consisted of a complcaied roof, the framc- woik of which was quite hollow, without garrets, attics, or skylights. The object of this style of architecture peculiar to Japan, is to enable the largest buildings, such as temples and palaces, to resist the shocks of earthquakes and frightful hurricanes known by the name of typhoons.

A zigzag staircase ascends the outside of the roof on the south side, and leads to top of the building, on which there is a ten ace. From this airy observatory we have often watched the arrival of the packet with the European mail. And when the proverbial dilatoriness ot the Japanese government has condemned us to whole of inaction, we have ascended there, and imagined ourshes passengers on board a becalmed vessel. Yet, when we cast a glance upon the harbour, with its squadron of foreign ships, and on the European city of construction, we felt that the great work of opening Japan to the world was making a leal, if flow progress The house which I have just described was inhabited by four persons only, the consul-general of the Netherlands, his chancellor, myself, and my Dutch secretary and inter prcter;" but we were surrounded by a colony of domestics and officials, located in several small houses which were scattered about the thickets in the garden. In one of these, close to western portico, and which was by the constabls of the consulate, 1 had established our little pho- studio, and a guard-room for the marines belonging to the Dutch station.

At a little distance behim" this building, there is a fireproof store heimetically closed by iron doors am shutters. The porter'" lodge is by the side of the gateway, in the strong fence which encloses the garden on all sides except that next the bay where it is replaced by a bamboo cane barrier, fixed horizontally above the water, and on a level with the terrace which extends along the shore. Tin gateway, which is painted black, tin ame as the fence, and ornamentei with copper on the top of the prhici pal pillars, contains three door; i large double one in the centre, wbicl is only opened for the master of th house and his guests and their visitors, and a hinall one on each side for the purveyors, native shopkeepers, and domestics. These are open all day. closed at sunset The chief por ter, a worthy man, and the father of a family, exercises a sort of patriarchal authority over the other servants, and even in the neighborhood generally.

His lodge, in which tea. pipes and tobacco arc always ready, is the rcn- for the loungers and gossips of the Bcr.tcn quarter. Tim does not interfere with their duties beiiiff per formed with an accuracy with wlrch we must be satisfied in the extreme Mast. The functions of the porters, or mnnbans. they arc called in Japan, arc no: confined pnsiding.

opening, and cluing the entrances confided to their care: they have to strike the hour, day and night, on gorsgs vu-pcivlcd al the door theSi lodge: In wbich means they aKo announce the rank of the visit ing tiie residence, one stroke being given for a nit reliant or a citize'i ot the Frank quarter, two for an officer or interpreter, three fora consul, commander of a ve-- l. or Japanese ernor, and four for a minister or -admiral. The distance from thet-rstrancc- gate to tbe bouse allows time enough to prepare for tbe suitable reception of the vi-ilw. Finally, the lias to undertake the responsibility, cither in pcrsc.n or through bis assis. tants of the night rounds, wbich are made twice an hour, around the houses and through the alleys of the enclosure.

The manVwho goes the round gives notice that; is passing, by i i three blows, one long and two short, rvith two sqirire pieces of wood i he carries. In case ot danger he must give the alarm by striking rapidly on ic gong. Along the south of the fence there is succession of i i and yards caic-lully concealed behind i trees. We first come to the a i is managed by a Chinese- a a then to the opposite to which are the houses occupied by the i betos, who are all Japanese. Each horse has his own beto who never loses sight of him; in fad.

when any one goes out for a ride, no a bow long, the be-to i before him or at side, so as always to be in readiness, if re- i to a charge of the animal These hardy attendants form a regular corporation, i their special jurisdiction, whose chief enjoys the right of wearing a sword in the exercise of his oflice. These betos are generally of middle size, but well proportioned. Thev pass their lives in a state of almost entire nudity. When they accompany their masters, however, they wear sandals and a blue jacket of slight material, and a head-dress composed ot a hankerchief of the same colour. One of our betos was a i ried, and every morning at daybreak, seated beside the well, he threw pails of fresh water alternately over his wife, his children, horse, and himself.

Next to the stables comes the kennel, tenanted by a couple of greyhounds, a beagle, a watchdog, and a cur; then the "poultry-yard, stocked with cocks, hens, geese, and ducks of the native breed At last we come to the dwellings of the comprador, the cooks, and the koskeis. The first is what the Japanese call a Nankingsan--a man of a i or merely, for shortness, a a i -that is to say, a Chinese. Our Nankin wore his national costume, and a plait of hair, of which he was very proud, for it reached almost to his knees. The functions of the comprador are similar to those of a steward, and these duties are generally entrusted by Europeans in the extreme East to Chinese, who have a talent tor the kitchen, the pantry and the market, and, it must be added, now how to take care of their pcr- uisites. Our cooks were natives, and, rider our superintendence, practised ingenious culinary eclecticism, iorrowed from the schools of Europe, ndia, China, and Japan.

We had as Hitlers two Japanese called respective- Siclen and Sariden, and a little Chinese belonging to the sect of the 'aipings, who wore his hair long, and ut at The back of the head in the Malay fashi n. He answered to the name of Rebelle. Tiie great rebellion of the Paipings against the Manchu dynasty ins created a traffic (through the open )orts of China) in young bovs and nrls who have been carried olTby the ivqienal troops or their allies from the nsurgent districts which were given to the sword and fire. I Thus it was that our little friend Rebelle" passed from the hands of the Franco-Chinese legion into the market at Shanghai, and from thence to fapan. It happened one day that an'express messenger from the French Legation, belonging to the African light infantry, was admitted to our dining-room to present a despatch.

Immediately on seeing him Rebelle was seized with a fit of trembling, and quickly disappeared through the varan dull door. The poor boy retained but one recollection of his childhood, which thrilled him with horror whenever a chance circumstance recalled it to bis memory. It was that of being in the midst burning houses, when a man in red trousers appeared, who seized him in his arms and carried him away from his home and family. The duties of valcts-dc-chambreare there were a fire: urinmska? To answered, Aeinuiv, and a little i after, when the liie had been subdued, he ix-tuiiu'd i the agieeable information, Arimati. In the same way I would give him orders to put the water on the fiie or to the tea; to call the bcto, and have my horse saddled; and on his part he would inform me whether it was the Fnglish mail hich had just entered the harbour or a man- of-war, or if the Japanese ministers had gone on hoard the French a i al's vessel.

1 learned some new words every day, and our conversations became gradually extended. I have now completed the list of people in our service, with the exception of the crew belonging to the consular sloop, i consisted of four rowers and their commander, who was as i in the use of the oars as his subalterns. The commander was a married man, and lived in a cottage on the shore; the rowers generally slept in the boat. These people form a dist'nct and are called Scndos. This strange mixture of various classes and elements was not peculiar to our establishment, but is common in British India and the extreme east.

In our age of freedom and industry we no longer attach countries to ourselves by mere visible force; on the contrary, we unite them to us by the ties of self-interest, by the interchange of commerce, or by rendering their labour remunerative. Too often, despite the prinsiples professed b3' them, our representatues are guilty of acts equally with those permitted by the old system of slavery; still it rmist be acknowledged that avarice and brutality have less share than formerly in the conquests of civilization, and' that never before has there been so much power and intelligence devoted to the cause ol pure science, of social progress, on a black ground, built entirely ot line i granite, as are also the various monuments placed along the left ol the avenue. The temple was before IK, but so much hidden by the foliage of tlu- cedars md pines which surrounded it, that we could scarcely preceive the taircases on which the worshippcis kneel when performing their i before the a a of the goddess. If the is empty, they can one ol the bonzes by ringing, with a long cloth bell-pull, a cluster ol little bells fastened to the door. The bonze immediately comes out of his lodging, and proceeds, according as he is required, to give advice, to distribute wax lights or amulets, or undertakes to say low masses or musical ones according to the sum paid.

It is necessary for every Japanese to wash and dry his lace and hands previous to presenting himself before the sanctuary. For this purpose a litde chapel is placed ut come distance to the right of the temple, containing a basin of holy water for these ablutions, and silk crape napkins hanging on a roller, like the towels in a sacristy. Two neighboring chapels are used, one to protect the big drum, which is usud instead of a bell, and the other to contain the votive offerings of the faithful. The bonzes who serve the temple at Benten own enclosure, the door of which is usually shut. This does not arise from any jealous feelings on the part of the men, but is rather the result of the social position which custom gives in Japan to the head of the family.

The woman looks on him as her lord and master, in his superior presence she devotes heiself to domestic a flairs, i being distracted by the presence vf a and during his absence she conducts herself with a reserve which m-iy be attributed less to modesty than to the feeling of dependence and submission which marriage entails on her. C. BECKER. Y. did not appear rich; their generally and the and this performed by the koskeis, who are all natives.

Each inhabitant of the residence had his own koskei; mine was a young man of the name of To. Like inost of Japanese, he did not know his exact age. but it was evident that lie still ranked amongst the youths, as the front of his head was not yet to the top. To was gifted with considerable intelligence and lively humour; he was not inferior to our other Japanese in the silence and quietness" with which he performed duties; and he had the advantage of tlicHi in a superior education and a kind and lively disposition. It was from To that I received my first lesson in Japanese: he gave me the key to it in three words, and without his being made of Christian charity.

To ignore aspect of our contemporaneous history, even in a simple narrative, would be to exclude the most pathetic and char acteristic points of interest which it presents. That portion of the Japanese town of Yokohama called Benten derives its name from a sea goddess, who is worshipped in an island to the north-west of the residence. Previous to the European settlement, this sacred locality was surrounded only by a straggling village, composed of fishermen's and laborers" huts, and separated by a marsh from the equally small village of Yokohama. Now, however quays, streets, and modern buildings cover the entire space between the foot of the Treaty promontory and the river, from which we were separated only by a street of barracks and Japanese watch-houses. The island of Benten alone has not undergone any alteration.

Situated at the extremity of which the river forms at a short distance from its opening into the harbour, it is protected on all sides by a facing of blocks of granite, and communicates with the streets on the shore by a bridge, which is scarcely visible amongst the mass of shrubs, reeds, and bamboos, which, in that part, overrun the channel. But it was at another point, in the western direction, that we discovered an approach worthy of the sanctity of the place to which it leads. Amongst the streets connecting Benten with the chief market-place of the Japanese town of Yokohama there is one which appears to be shaded by a plantation of pine; and after crossing the municipal barrier, which is closed at night, we found ourselves opposite a long avenue of pines, to which the entrance was through one of the sacred gateways called toris. These arc formed of two pillars bent towards each other in such a way as to inert in an acute angle were the.y not terminated at a certain height by two cross bars, the upper one being stronger than the other and having its ends slightly bent upwards. The tori always denotes the vicinity of a temple, a chapel, or some other sacred place.

What we call natural curiosities, such as a grotto, a spring, a gigantic tree, a fantastic rock, are to the Japanese the objects of pious veneration or superstitious terror, according as their minds are more or less influenced by the Buddhist demonology, and the bonzes give expression to those popular feelings by erecting a tori in the iicighboihood of any of these remarkable objects. S-nnctimcs they place a number of toris at certain intervals along the avenue leading to a tcni- dress was slovenly and neglected, expression of their countenances stup.d, sullen, and even malignant to foreigners, so that we felt inclined to remain at a respectful distance. 1 never had an opportunity of seeing them officiate, except once in the procession of their patron saint. It appears that at ordinary times they confine themselves during the day holding conference, and 1 have seldom seen any one availing himself of their ministry, except coun try people, and fishermen's wives, and passing pilgrims. But more than once--at sunset, and even far on in the night--I have heard the sound ot the tambourines, which form the entire orchestra of the temple of Benten.

The bonzes keep up an interminable beating on these monotonous instruments, always with the same rhythm; for instance, four loud blows followed by four dull ones, repeated over and over again for whole hours, probably during the time necessary for dispersing mulignant influences. Nothing can equal the melancholy impression produced by this dull, measured sound in the silence of night, mingled only with the sighings of the cedar trees and the ol the breaking on the shore. One can easily perceive that a religion which finds expression in such customs must oppress the minds of the people, and is far from being a natural religion. Paganism is the enemy of human nature; and this is the reason that, as a matter of fact, its appearance provokes, independently of the prejudices of our Christian education, an indescribable and instinctive feeling of repulsion. The indispensible accompaniments of Japanese temples are tea-houses, or restaurants, where they consume principally tea, and saki, an intoxicating drink made from fermented vice; but also fruit, fish, and cakes made of rice or wheat.

The passion for opium is unknown in Japan. They smoke very small metal filled with tobacco chopped veiy small, but quite free from narcotic preparations. These establishments are always served by women, and generally with perfect propriety, but most of them have, not- Vithstan'dinsr, a very bad reputation. This is especially the case with regard to those of Benten, and may, perhaps, be traced back to the period when vhe little island dedicated to the patroness of the bca still attracted a concourse of The shrine is now BECKER HENRY, (Scccessors to Peter C. Becker.) Cor.

Main and Second Streets, WEST HAMILTON, O. UEALERS IN Staple and Fancy I Consisting in part of Teas, Sugars, Coffees, Spices, Flour, Meal, Qjieensware, Glassware, Table Cutlery, Cigars. Tobaccos, Canned Goods, Sauces, And everything usually kept in a I A As Cheap as the Cheapest. Country Prodcce taken in exchange for groceries. Call and see.

Attractions FOR THE Third bet Lvdlo-w and Railroad, HAMILTON, OHIO. Embroideries, Laces, Collars, Cuffs, Handkerchiefs, Ties, Notions, in endless variety, and at prices which defy competition. OF VARIOUS SIZES, AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES Call and examine our stock and prices and we are confident that we can please you. aware of it. The method he use of was quite philosophic.

The operations of the mind may be resolved into three primary ones: enquiry, negation, and aflirma- lioai. s'-ou one can express siiese three operations the remainder as merely a question ol vocibularv, and it on'v remains to store the memory with a selection of common words to be drawn upon when the occasion We with the enquiry, and 1 fir-t Jrarni Low to ex- pre-ts "is iherrr" then we on to negation, ''there is arimati; and lastly affirmation. 4 'lherc siriwaf. 'I lien we to tiie wonls which 2 was movl to require, such as Nippon, Japan, Japanese; ten; ma, a boisc: to which he words which "nave become natmalipcd in tbe countrv, such as Hollanda. Dutch: Jvnglish; French: ininisirn, minister; admiral, admiral.

I took every opportunity of practising my lession. For instance, on my return from a walk, I ordcicd Fo to bring tea, saying, Tdia arimaf- l-a? ric replied, and immediately placed the refreshing beverage on the table. Hearing an alarm sounded on the gong, I inquired if pie, thus reproducing, with rustic simplicity. the architectural idea wbich we sec embodied in the Greek propyiwuni and the colonnade of St. Peter's at Rome.

The trees in the avenue of Bentcn arc very tall and slender, and for the most part, bent in the same direction bv the l.o:i:j poles arc fastened to them, here and Uu-rr, TO which the bcnzcf suspcn-l gai lands, inscriptions, and banntrs. on Icslivals, At the end of the a von me there is a second AW, not so high the first, in order to add 1o the cflcci of the perspective. On icachinjj it we were surprised to 4ind that the avenue made a bend, and extended to tbe There the jjrownd was with ta33 grass, and lijjht silvery pines, with airv our Jctt was a sheet of transparent and opposite a and wide wooden bridge, constructed wi'fo simple elegance, and comparatively deserted, but the entire space between the inland and our residence is occupied by the quarters of the military, orYakonins, as they are called. Tfiey are the government officers employed in the custom-house service in guarding the port and pub lie places, keeping a watch on the outlets of the Frank quarter, c. They wear no distinguishing dress, except a round, pointed hat of glazed pasteboard, and two sabres on the left side of their belts, one of them large, with a double hilt, and the other small, for close fighting.

There arc several hundreds of these men, who are generally married; they each have a sepa- "lodging, and all are treated with perfect equality in this respect The plan which the government of the Tycoon has adopted for the arrangement of these dwellings so characteristic of their love of exact military organization that it is worth describing in detail. It consists of a group of wooden buildings built in the shape of a long parallelogram, showing to the street outside ni-rely a high planked enclosure, with low doors at icgu- Jar intervals. Kach of these doors opens into a yaid, which contains a small garden, a water-tank, a cook an; range, and other offices. At the bottom of the court, and on the same level, i a spacious chamber, which can be parted two or three rooms bv i partitions. This yard awl clwmjScr form the whok-'domcstic accommodation oi a o1 Yakoninv MI of these of which the sttcets of Agent for Fleshman's celebrated Yeast, sold wholesale and retail.

MRS. GALE" TUB OLD -AND- SPRING WAGON MANUFACTURER. C. Morgenthaler, Cor- Trimming i a tori, standing owl against the dark foliage of a of lajge There was an air of the quarter are com posed, contains, on an average, a dozen ol these lwe L- mystery alwut the whole f-cejie calculated to inspire awe. It was by this bridge, the pilLirs of wbich are ornamented with copper, that we at last reached the sacred spot.

'Hie third tori, which is decorated at the top with an, inscription in letters of gold ings, six in a row, and back to back The ol the chambers arc all of uniform height, and are covered with tiles- The Ynkonin quaitcr is a triumph of the genius of pipe-clay and uniformity. The streets arc generally deserted, for tbe men spend the rreatcr part of the day at the customhouse or on guard, and during their absence each family keeps inside its ERRORS OF YOUTH. A CENT! K-1-" ffr front rtV'maniTic Die nl will, fnf 11 4lit" 1 1 Vmcdv Jw a i itio 1T1 1 TO CONSUMPTIVES. 1 known it, pivjwirnifi JiTi5 wins Oif ill fln1 for (Vm Av. Uw-y Kt-v.

AT 1W S. T. RCHiVUcoir.

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About The Hamilton Examiner Archive

Pages Available:
390
Years Available:
1874-1875