What the Gay World of Fashion is Wearing—The Very Latest Styles, SOMETHING ABOUT SILKS. the Best China nml India Silks Come From Lyons. All tlio best; china and India Bilks, •ailed, come from Lyons. In fact, there to ao sort of silk tissue not mntlc there- Mid better mode there than anywhere else. Damask, forerunner of brocade, came from Damascus. Indeed there Is a flavor and fragrance of the east through all the head roll of silken stuffs. Designing silks is something that em ploys and pays well for much of the best artistic talent In France. A pattern that takes means fortune to the mill that makes it. Each house has Its own pattern makers and guards jealously the fruit of their labors. A pattern can not be protected by letters patent. A large buyer may, though, so i from the maker exclusive control of ' CHANGEABLE TAFFETA GOWN. th* sorts he buys. It behooves him to buy carefully, prayerfully. The verdict of petty jury is not more uncertain than that «f the silk wearing public. Shrewd advertising, good display, may do something toward influencing it, but the pattern thai toward the close of the season is voluminously in stock is at once hewed down in jprice and cast upon the bargain counter. Each year there are new surfaces in variety, but all of them resolve themselves into the original elementary combinations possible to the handloom. Moire has its season when It is unseasonable, stripes come and go, but silk goes on. forever. The use of it increases yearly, and it it safe to say that the consumption will double in the next 20 years. Yet the market for raw silk is merely "steady." China, Japan and India are such inexhaustible storehouses of it that they can send us twice our needs without materially affecting the price. There have hoon sporadic efforts to raise •ilk in the United States, but 'so far we have produced so small an amount in comparison that it Is not worth mentioning. The sketch shows a gown of rose and green changeable' taffeta, trimmed with white lace, green moussoliuo do sole and arrow jet pussometerie. JDDIC CHOLLET. BITS OF GLOVE HISTORY. Ibey Were First Worn With a Thumb and A writer interested in the history of the wardrobe tells us that gloves were not known in England until near the close of the tenth century and were then worn with u thumb and no finger, like mittens. They were larger In every way than they needed to bo, and wondorously embroidered and starred with jewels. No glove wore finer thuil those of the clergy. They wore mostly of white silk or linen, oun- GOOD MANNERS. tadlo Chollet on the Occult taw of Trifles In Etiquette. One of the worst breaches of etiquette if which you can be guilty Is to attempt 10 teach your acquaintances etiquette. If rou Invite a friend to luncheon at a res- laurant, for instance, or accept her invita- lon, you thereby confess that a degree of social equality exists between you and ler, and if she eats her oysters with an or- linary fork instead of with the trident that las been specially provided for that pur- BBD AND I'ltili COSTUME. alngly broldored and sometime* fringed with pearls. One ecclesiastic had a red silk pair, with tlio guorod monogram workut an the buck, surrounded with a golden glory, and later on tliey hud gloves to match their different vestments. In foot, glove* bad departed from the primary idea of utility and become u decoration. They wore too magnificent for common wear mid wuro frequently carried in the hand or worn In the girdle. U was by the ttuu glove? hl« page hud in his girdle that Occur tie Lion was betrayed on his wuy home from the crusade, and BO fell into captivity. But already the glovo was inoro thai a mere bit of foppery- The knight's walled glove sheltered hU hand. It becauio a sitfi of power, and whun a gracious lord muuii to dignify hln intention to protect u towi tie Mint his glove as u Hiiro sign of hla will The glove, loo, wan the token o wliuu one knight duolareii \v» iioUior, mid to uliuw lit* fuiiHy i ho bound her broldurod gli • to hb< hujniot, Lung glovuH citiiio In u) i M|| v jg! Mw Movwiituenih uuntury. >. i gloves wwo u m-overb for tin .i THREE CHARMING GOWNS. _ The gown on the right ii of mauve faille, with full draped blouse, polka surplice with heliotrope belt and trimmings. The center one is of pink clmifle, with front panel of Spanish flouncing. The sleeves are of lace and the horizontal plaiting ii of white crepon. The other is lawnunie, apple green in color, trimmed with white lace. teauty. AH through this'tlme gloves were prettily set off with lace, ribbons and 'rlnge, although the fashion of the finer irtistlc embroidery of the middle ages was 'ailing into disuse. The bore hand was deemed an offense, and the costliness of gloves defined their wearer's social position. The illustration ihows a gown of rose latlste trimmed with vivid rod satin and white lace. This thoroughly French oos- inm* is completed by a green straw hat trimmed with red roses and white quills. JDDIC CHOLLET. BILK TOILET. lows it Is not within your province to cor- •eot her, unless she has previously recog- ilzed you as a guardian of her manners. It ebb chooses to convey ice cream to her nouth by means of a spoon instead of a ork, let her do it unmolested, the mutter is not of the slightest consequence, and to bo in constant fear of transgressing some occult law of etiquette one's self or of associating with persons who do so Is to jrove one's, self not to tlio manner born ind by nature a snob. Even if your country guest oats with her knife In public you will prove yourself a provincial by paying any attention to it. It happens to bo her custom, to which she lias been roared, and If you have a cosmopolitan mind it will be too insignificant a thing to worry you. However technically perfect your own manners may bo, they will exhibit a glaring deficiency if you correct those of other grown persons. Besides you arc not sure of infallibility, ami it Is not impossible that you may occasionally rcliuko a person who knows even more on the subject than you do and is behaving quite properly in the eyes of the cultivated world. When she eats her choose witli her knife, she Is merely following the English habit, and It is quite permissible to take olives, corn, undressed lottuco and lump sugar in the fingers. Again, uiany of the actions that you consider faulty may bo duo to the absence of mind engendered by lively conversation, while others uro accidents to which anybody Is liable. Most persons whom ono moots socially have a sufficient knowledge of etiquette to bo at ease among tlio people with whom they associate, and that is all that Is necessary. A really well bred person never rests her faith on such mlnuto trifles as the anglo at which tlio knifu is loft or tlio number Of crumbs to bo permitted to full from the piooo of bread. Consideration for others is the foundation of all good manners, and tho man or woman who luoki that has inert) affectation In the place of toot and truo politeness. Tho sluitoh ehows u gowu of row and gold changeable Bilk. Tho skirt drapery Is of whlto inouBsolliio do Hole, tho bodlco of whiUi gulpuro, tho sloovos und glrdlo of old yullow satin and tho two bows of churry velvet ribbon. Juuiu CuoLUti'. '* HOW TO UVE. M»t Cli««U auil Tlio»o Ugly Ifullow* In tlu Mvtik, It In Busy to muko rules for n healthful manner of living, but Huuli rules uro difficult to kuup for any length of time and souiiilUuus CaUo much comfort out of llfo. These aru good rulou to follow; 1. Avoid nil i-.\ci'hs; I'icosH Is man's (jreutont ouemy. 9. Do nob change any liable tuo suddenly, for luihll IN second nut uro. 0. I'rusorvu un even nnd tranquil mind. It Is the bowl guiminteo of Knitf lll'o and perfect liuulth. i. SeoU itiul vinjiiy j>uru and temperate air, It Invigorates both body and mind. 5. Select with the greatest care the most suitable food. 6. Always preserve a proper proportion between tho food eaten and tho exercise taken. 7. If you would keep well, be sparing with medicine. After these rules for health, just a word on a matter of beauty—a word of worth to those who CLOTH CAPE. want it. Have you ugly little hollows in your neck and a flat chest? Here is an admirable exercise taught to women who are so afflicted, which, if followed persistently, will develop the chest muscles and fill out all those telltale hollows . in .the neck: Advance one foot, as in a long step, and stand with the weight on it, extending the arms parallel to each other in front until they are in lino with l( tho shoulders, energize them and close tho hands as if each were firmly grasping a rope, keeping tho eyes steadily fixed on some point about two feet abovo tho level. Inhale slowly, and with great energy pull the extended arms down and well backward; at the same time bend tho torso forward, but do not transfer tho weight of the body. The head bends backward in' opposition to tho torso. Hold tho position for a moment, then withdraw all unnecessary nerve 1'orco from tho muscles and ox- halo as tho body returns to tho original position. Tho sketch shows a tailor made capo of tan colored cloth. It is trimmed with a stitched decoration, and tho standing collar is finished with velvet. JUBIO CnOLLET. HOME DECORATION. It 1» tho Duty of Rational Human Being* to Be Helpful. Three-quarters of tho advico about homo decoration is unpractical and leads tho unwary housewife astray, but there aru somo Improvements that it is possible to undertake and carry through successfully. For Instance, patience, care and several cans of enamel paint will convert a shabby set of deal bedroom furniture Into something worth having. Tho enamel may bo put on over tho original paint, tlio furniture being first thoroughly washed with soap and water. Throe coats at least aro required, and four arc desirable. Tho enamel bought at an art dealer's is fur moru ex MTTLB OIVJL'B OOWN. pensive than that obtained at a pululBhoj) und Is of a Ion serviceable quality. Tho quick drying sort will allow all three coats to bo applied on tho suuio day if necessary. If now handles aro bought for tho bureau drawers, tho roju- voimtlon will bo still luoro thorough BttlUfuoUiry. Knamvl Is not suitable for tho wood work of u room, but If It iHtlenlrublo to luwu the woodwork and furniture ullko In quiuk drying paint U ultio Bold in largo cans ready for use. Thin slmpllllrs th< uuiuUiur (lucoruUir'H work vury muuli uj|< in u grout convenience to houiwhoUU whi uro iioi wlthlu ousy roach, of u profosulonfli painter, especially as workmen,' even when blndlngly engaged, have n universal habit of postponing thoir visits fromda.T to day, nnd so keeping their employers In feVspense and confusion. Every woman should have n collection of light tools suited to her size and strength and know how to use them, for moments often arise when five minutes' Intelligent employment of a saw or a plane would.' clear away some obstacle from the home decorator's path, that without that help must keep her at a standstill until she can secure a limit's assistance. It is tho duty of every rational human being to bo self helpful, nnd not to find it necessary to rely upon somebody else whenever'an emergency arises. In tho Industrial schools of the future it Is to be hoped that boys as well as girls will be taught to sew and girls as well as boys be taught to handle jools and understand machinery. An illustration is given of a child's 'rook made of red wool. The front U arranged in an Immense box plait, similar to a herald's tabard, while the full back Is confined by a belt. A square yoko of gnl- )uro defines the neck, and tho full sleeve* ere gathered into a guipure cuff. JUDIC CHOLLET. NEATNESS iff DRESS. Haste Is tho Mother of Manjr Sing of Omla- ilon and Commission. These aro tho days when neatness in dress goes under the name of- smartness, says a common sense fashion writer, and ;he smartly gowned woman owes her success to tho fact that she makes everything leoure and tidy before she leaves her room, nvariably making a final careful scrutiny of her attire as she stands, fully dressed, rafore her mirror. She who boasts that it BATISTE TOILET. never takes her a minute to dress may be ully assured that there will be abundant ihortcomings in her raiment to bear witness to tho truth of her statement. The >onnet and dress covered with dust col- ected during yesterday's walk; the veil >adly adjusted; books that seem to have a mortal antipathy for their corresponding lyes; luckless hairpins hanging, like tho iword of Damocles, by a single hair. These are some of the sins of omission or commission that tell us she devotes insufficient time to her toilet. Believe me, you may possess tho most expensive of gowns, Kinnets, boots nnd gloves, yet if they are mproperly cared for and carelessly worn •our neat little neighbor, with her "made over" dress and her last year's bonnet, will >ut you to shame iii tho matter of personal tppearauce. There is a gentility about her which brings her the most pleasing attentions, and men and women alike pay her lomage because she is so neat and trim. She is a firm believer in that last look In ho mirror. If tho mirror is a full length ono, EO much tho better, for things sometimes go wrong with tho lower part of u cos- iumo, of which the wearer, looking down upon herself, is quite ignorant, but which are perfectly evident to everybody else. A sketch Is given of a gown of old blue batisto trimmed with white guipuro. The la of white satin. Junto COOLLKT. Short on Playoard Stampi, CINCINNATI, Aug. 29.—Two million ilaying card stamps were applied for at he revenue office here Tuesday. Only O.OUO were on hand and those are dis- ributed BO as to go around to all appli- ;anta. Not a dollar of whisky tax was paid, tbo first time in the history of the iffice. ' NEWS TOLD IN A FEW WORDS. A. M. Van Aukon, alias C. M. Hobbs, was released by tbe Detroit authorities, and at once rearrested and taken to iuiucy, III*., to answer to the charge of lorgery. It is proposed to ship iron ore to St. Louis by river from Stillwater, to which >olnt it will be conveyed by a new line 'rom West Superior, Wls. PeasanU who bad been distrained of ;heir cattle attacked tbe chateau of Count ryszkiewios in Kusitia, but were repulsed, Forest fires ure raging along the Mustui chuHctts coast and several towns ure in danger of destruction. Tho tug Valerie ran aihore during a •torm on Luke Superior. Her 60 paimen- ra were lauded with difficulty. Whisky trust deal with u New York syndicate for a 19,000,000 loau has fallen through, Director Morris refusing to Indorse the paper. Mrs. Charles Null wrecked tbe windows and fixtures of u saloon at Delaware, O. whoso proprietor bad sold her huttbam liquor. Mayor Johnson of Curbondule, Ills., ar rested for disturbing the peace of tbe city council iu trying to prevent the grunting of saloon licenses was set at liberty. The town of Phillips, Win., which was burned recently, will be rebuilt. Con tructa for public buildings nave ulready l»«eu let. Fuller, Hoysott & Co. of Pittaburg bought tut) property of the Hlriiiiiigliun (Ala.) Furnace cotnpuuy for $360,000 a public auction. Governor Altgeld has Ibsued a requlsl (Ion on the governor of Wisconsin fo Q«orue W. Hock, wanted at La Suite, Ills, for stalling a horse. Chicago health olllclals expect auothei smallpox epidemic uud are preparing for It Chiuugo fttstbouud shipments for th past week uhow an Increase of 8,000 ton over the ciirrou|>oiiiliiiv week of lust year A reward of j'v',600 u»s been offered fo Information li'uiliuu to the locution of K M. Jiyen*, the much ubdueU'd I'itUbui'i luilliuuuliu Willuim W. MuKliinuy, thu you mm twUlier lu the Ohio volunteer*., who ei listed iu IttUl ul the itge of IS years uud , died uL ^am-bvllle. O. All the fuel you bum. Your stove doesn't draw right; doesn't throw out the heat; wastes the fuel. It's one of those stoves made to sell— not to buna. When you want a stove or range for actualservice; one that will give you the benefit of """ k all the heat generated, that will save your fuel and save ^ your money, it will pay yotttoin vestigate Jewel Stoves and Ranges. The original Detroit stoves, made lii the largest atove plant In the world. Have stood every test for 30 years. Ask the dealer for them, for the Trade Mark. JEWEL; .TOVES ' GUILD'S GREflT CLEARING SALE Is still on and will be for eight days more. Our fall goods are beginning to arrive, and must make room for them, consequently! must sell. Cost or quality cuts no figure. If you want bargains see Guild's prices. tsiPRemember a dollar saved is a dollar earned and you can save one dollar on every three dollars worth you purchase AT GUILD'S HEW DRY GOODS STORE Next door west of postoffioe, Carroll, Iowa. i : s®s®s®®®®@®@ JUST OPENED KNEE PANTS LARGE ASSORTMENT Prices, 20,30 and 50cts Boys 1 Suits Away Down Steam ship tickets to and from all parts or the world at lowest rates. , 1,4, JS?
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