The Carroll Sentinel from Carroll, Iowa on June 22, 1894 · Page 4
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The Carroll Sentinel from Carroll, Iowa · Page 4

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Carroll, Iowa
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Friday, June 22, 1894
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Page 4
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What the Gray World of Fashion is Wearing—The Very Latest Styles. THE ACME OF VULGARITY. " ' Hint Is What n Soiled Silk Is, According to Jndlc Cliollct, Skirts YrltJi separate linings hnvo ro- turnod to replace thoso in which the lining Is sewed in with tho sunnis, as hns boon tho custom for two or three years past. Sometimes tho separate lining is made in tho form of a distinct skirt, which, when made of silk and prettily trimmed, may bo worn •with a number of different gowns. It should bo as full as tho outer dress itself and as carefully fitted. Black is tho most SATIN VEST generally serviceable. It Is a mistake to wear a.white silk petticoat except under evening dross, for one hour's wear under a street gown will destroy its beauty and freshness forever, and soiled silk is the acme of vulgarity. Muslin and cambric petticoats are the only admissible white ones for ordinary •wear, since they alone can be changed frequently and laundered successfully. Muslin skirts and other underwear are told at such low pitoM now that there is no excuse for any woman who has not on ample supply of such garments. It is not essential that they bo of fine material or elaborately trimmed, although even the least expensive articles have usually some sort of ornamentation. The main thing is to have plenty of them, keep them in good order and have them well laundered. Many wealthy women inclined to plumpness buy the plainest underclothing to bo - found in order to avoid the fluff and fullness that would ' k be caused by trimming. Hand embroidered French goods of extremely plain cut may bo obtained at a moderate price and are often worn by largo women who prefer some sort of decoration to a perfectly plain finish. Some of tho new articles of neckwear are really charming in effect. One lately seen consisted of a finely jetted round yoke with a standing collar and black gauze. The lower edge of the yoke was cut in several large points and bordered with a full double frill of the satin striped gauze, very finely plaited. Block mousselino de sole, crepe de chine and other thin black goods are much employed for these becoming adjuncts and are often combined with tinted or white lace. A sketch is given of a vest of gold colored satin trimmed with black guipure. The upper port is plaited into the stand- Ing collar, and the material is so shaped as to fall in coquilles. The lower part is confined by corselet pieces of guipure. Tho middle of tho front and the collar are trimmed with narrow guipure. JUDIC CHOLLET. THS HAPPY PARIS GIRL Her Gown* Cost Only Half as Aluch •» the American Woman'*. It is astonishing to note the difference in price between ready made garments bore and abroad. What would seam a very moderate allowance in America will dress a woumu well and fashionably in Paris, provided she purchases her apparel already made up and 1ms it altered to suit her figure. Tho Utter in a Parisian shop CHINA BILK COSTUME. can do this to perfection, so that tho gown looks us If it were made to order, and tho charges nro very moderate compared with those to which wo are accustomed here. There is ono objection to ready mado garments that holds good everywhere— that Is, somebody else is sure to have something similar—but as tho ambition of u great many women is to "look like other people" this Is evidently not universally considered a drawback. Uobldos a 1V1- slan woman is very clover at adding a bow here and a bit of lujuo there, whloh, although but tho work of u moment, gives her gowfl <U> individuality and distinguishes Jfc 09 being uawouul to herself, (or no t wo women will muku exactly tho KUIUO ebmigos or add touchwuf just Iliu biiuiu color. An Amorioun woman who wlftlios to up- jjcur trim not! ftwMotwIilu oxpuets tu \>uy lit least $;.'5 fur u neat mid well niudi- woolen btivft' (lostumo prettily trimmed;: nil ul- <<Tc<l to lit lioi: In Paris u ivulKljr ; nwu of about tho same grwlu Jiiuy bu uln iliirtl I'm' hulf the moauy, wlillo uvuuing u> s art' equally ruagoiiubiu in [ii'iou. lt> i>> <, •, tm possible to ti])oml u groat deal of '<•< .'• for H. gown thorn us how), but it •!<* m > • • jiOCwBumy. Fumous Parisian jnu(U«(ct< a •! tulloi'H olmi'xo trwiuJiulouBly, IntfoiU'i .. dress vi'iy will Uu-iv without wupluy: ,i thfjii, wlillo JiDi'o u good (imwnuituT l > i. THREE PRETTY SUMMER GOWNS. The center dress is of peachblow mualin with grass green Sowers. Around the bottom of the skirt is a twelve inch flounce of butter colored lace. The bows are green. At the right is a mauve lawn dress. At the left U a princess dress of blue and green fil-a-fil. rarity at any except an extravagant price. An illustration is given of a gown of old rose'china silk flowered with black. The bottom of the plain skirt has a, narrow rufflo of black gauze headed by a scarf trimming of silk held in place by guipure straps. Tho round bodice is gathered in at the waist under a pointed girdle of black gauze, closing with sash ends at tho side. Figaro jacket fronts of white guipure trim the corsage, and the bouffant elbow sleeves terminate in a flouce of guipure. The hat is of gold colored straw trimmed with white lace wings and pink flowers. JUDIC CHOLLET. REIGN OF THE RAINBOW. All Its Colors Popular Mow and Often Worn l>y the Wrong Woman. Almost all colors, bright and dull, light and dark, nro fashionable this year, arid are worn too often with a reckless disregard of their becomingncss to the'individ- ual. The fact that a certain tint is in vogue is a sufficient recommendation of it in some women's eyes, and they eagerly adopt it without stopping to consider whether it heightens or diminishes the effect of their personal charms. Orange, for instance, is to be worn only by a decided brunette or by the dark haired, creamy complexioned woman with clear gray eyes. The latter is the one type of whom it may truly be said that she can wear almost every color, preference being given to decided shades. But if orange be fashionable the fair woman with pale brown tresses trims her hat with it, forgetting that the rich color will overpower all the subtle ruddy and golden tints in her hair and make it look dull and drab toned. Magenta is almost as try ing as orange and can be worn successfully only, by women having dark, gray or white hair, character- OBAT BILK TOILET. Istlcs BO noticeable in themselves as not to be rendered Insignificant by tho juxtaposition of a striking tint. Sharp, solid blues, greens and purples are also dangerous to indulge in unadvisedly. Uluo and purple especially, of all UVIOB, should bo carefully handled, as they bring out very strongly any hint of sullownobs lu tho skin. Clear red is the most universally becoming of any bright color and combines well with nearly everything. Dull tan and ecru shades am better for tho majority of persons than clear gray, the latter appertaining properly only to women with rosy cheeks. If they have gray hair also, tho harmony is complete. A knowledge of complementary colors and a clearsighted- ness in regard to one's own characteristics of face and figure are all that are needed to insure correct dressing. A sketch is given of a gray silk gowu trimmed with black luce. The lower skirt is of gray inolro and is plaited. Over this is worn a princess gowu of pearl gray taffeta, caught up in front by u large black .velvet bow and trimmed with a flounce of block lace. Tho corsage is covered with drapery of bluck lace held in place by small velvet bows. The sleeves are composed of three puffs trimmed with bows of black satin. The block luue bonnet is trimmed with inauvo flowers and jet JUJMG CllOlLET. QOOP OUT OF EVIL. Woman's Bxtravng«u«« In U»r4 Timon I'uU Urv»t! lu tlu» Uuulli* of the 1'oor, Just so often us "hard time*" recur, Just so often comes an inomiso lu the volume of tho outcry against women's uxtruv- ogauue as exhibited in tho indulgence In pemwul luxuryi either iu tho way of clothing or surroundings. It 1ms been said that tho poor wo shall have ulwuys with us, and tho Iwiuhi truth of tho tuyliiK must be up- puruut, la Bpltt* uf the UieorU'nof ultruUtle drouiuors, OH long us nuUiiu herself is partial iu tlio dlgtrJbuUott (it luMiltJj, utruuglh mid uutlvu ability. Nat urn having wet us u bad example of Inequality in vital inul- UU'S, we wiiiiiot Jiojie to over iwtuWItih i«ir- foot equality In superficial affairs. Not to wmuli'i 1 from tho point, the very pour who aru Juiljllterud by the extravagance of tiiu rich earn their daily bread by ministering to it. If in a time of financial depression everybody refused to buy silk, furniture, carriages, china and tho thousand and one unnecessary articles on which wealthy per- NEW BODICE. sons spend their money, an incalculable number of workers would be thrown out of employment and reduced to the condition of paupers. Every garment, carpet, piano, mirror and roll of wall paper represents a number of branches of labor upon each of whloh men and women are dependent for the means of living.' If the demand for these articles stops, they will cease to bo manufactured and will, no longer afford occupation to the wago earner. Tho rich persons who are tho real enemies of the poor are the miserly class who hoard their wealth instead of scattering it and do no more to encourage trade and keep money in brisk circulation than does the poor artisan'himself. This is a comparatively small proportion of the wealthy minority, however. Most persons who have money spend it freely in every direction. A sketch is given of a rather odd bodice of two materials. Tho vest and sleeve puffs are of figured goods, while the full surplice corsage and cuffs are of plain stuff. The end of tho left side of the bodice is carried around tho waist and buttoned in front to form a girdle. JUDIC CUOLLKT. SIMPLE, NEAT, REFINED. These Are Word* to Kem«iuber In DreulUB tho Homo'* Infant Bulur. Tho scarfs, tray cloths and other small articles of decorative table linen that have so long been embroidered with rod are now to have the design worked in one, two or three shades of yellow. Pretty round doilies are sliown made of lino white linen and edged with point doTenlso. Just inside the edge of tho linen a small pattern Is embroidered with gold colored wash silk. These doilies would go well with tho gold UKUBIIIIOLIJKU. •nd cream dainask luncheon cloth* and napkins now sold, which are as brilliant and soft as silk. Jfhore in wally nothing quite as dainty for tho table M pure white linen, however, hemmed rawior than fringed, and by all mean* hemmed by liana. Machine hemming on table mid bed linen U an incongruity which should never be tolerated. Reverting to the eubjuut of tinted house linen, It is a good plait to buy towels that have not a colored border, for In the washing and boiling that towelu *o frequently puss through tho color insure to fade more or less, even if it bu md, whloh is most lasting, and an appnurunco of ago ami tliabblnesa is thus produced long before thu linen is really worn out. Thu latest thing In fancy work is tho urn- brolderlug of small squares of wjai'no w»ru bolting cloth with Japanese silks in per siaii puttoi-us, the squared to be turned In account In making cushion covers, lain- broi(uins and other decorative urHclw. Joluud by w'do bauds of dull blue ribbon, they would «uako u very pretty baby cur- rlagu robu, although nothinguuit oijvml for thai purpose a white cashtncro goatskin, Which is light, warm and appropriately infantile looking. Excessive elaboration is out of plnco in a child's appurtenances. The more exquisitely simple and neat they nre tho more refined Will they appear. That is why a baby's toilet articles should be of china and ivory rather than of silver Mid Its lawn gowns hemstitched and tucked instead of richly embroidered. A sketch is given of a Ijrushholder of heavy ollre cloth. Tho pockets nro laid In plaits on each side at tho bottom to allow sufficient room for tho brushes. The top of the back piece and tho face of tho pockets aro embroidered in geometrical patterns in colored silks and gold cord, and the edges nro pinked. JUDIO CHOLLET. BEAUTY AND KNOWLEDGE. Jndlc Chollet Thinks a AVornnn May Do Both Pretty and Truly "Advanced." Now that the chief questions in regard to tho higher education of women havo been settled there arc several minor points which, trifling as they may seem to be, aro yet worthy of consideration, and one of these )*thls: Is intellectual development materially assisted by the sacrifice of personal attractions, or, if they aro too marked to be entirely concealed, by showing them to as great a disadvantage as possi- JET BONNET. blef Unless an ascetic style of dress Is of real physical assistance to the bruin, like plenty of sleep and wholesome 'food, there seems to be no reason why a course in the higher mathematics should involve a renunciation of ruffles or why a firm grasp of social science cannot be secured while the hair is becomingly arranged. Yet some of our cleverest women proceed on the assumption that beauty and knowledge, like youth and crabbed age, cannot live together, and since these women are so intellectual and havo studied so much they must have some unanswerable argument to support the theory, although they have not taken the trouble to advance it. • A seeming inconsistonce lies in tho fact that the same women admiro without a qualm of conscience beauty in a work of art, a plant or a landscape. They will take pains to hang a picture in the best light, place a flower in a vase which sots off its loveliness and direct their friends' attention to some particularly picturesque phase of a familiar view. Why is not personal beauty to be equally appreciated? This sort of self immolation on the altar of science has been a grievance with tho laity, especially men, for many years, and no doubt isnn influence, although possibly a small one, toward tho continuance of that illogical prejudice against the cultivation of a girl's intellect which clings so tenaciously to existence. We like to BOO pretty popple even if they aro stupid. If we must take our choice between the pretty and tho clover ones and care not to have them combined in ono class of individuals, we will almost always ohooso the pretty ones, if you please. Tho intellectual woman, who sacrifices her hair will feel no Interest In Che bonnet of which a sketch is given, for it is a flippant arrangement [suited to surmount only waves and curls. It consists of a small jet crown trimmed with beaded velvet made into bows, ondi iand rosettes. Tho front is ornamented {with throe black ostrich plumes. There are no strings, JUDIC CHOLLET. EXPLORING AN INDIAN MOUND. Progrm* Hade by Stanford Unlvertlty Stn- dents In an Intcrentlnjf Investigation. ' Tho progressive students of Stanford have begun a scientific exploration of the great mound near Castro station, sonic four miles oast of tho university grounds. This immense poor shaped mound oi earth marks tho last resting place oi hundreds, possibly thousands, of the simple minded children of nature, whc in times long gone by hold undisputed title to this beautiful region, and with these crumbling bones aro interred tht implements, ornaments, tho remains oi cainpilres and other evidences which toll tho Btory of tho daily life of those people who wore, but aro not. Tho mound lies with its longer axil north and south and measures 470 feel in length by 1520 iu width, having an area of nearly two aorcB. In height it ranges from about two foot at thu southern end to 10 feet at ito highest poiul near tho northern extremity, Tho soil used iu ltd construction wot originally tho ordinary bluok udobo, Buc;h as it* found in the fields surrounding the mound, but now rendered inuoti lighter by tho admixture of tho usliet from 9 thousand campfiros. It was evidently tukeii from tho territory immediately aurrounding the mound, and iu process of time tho great trench thus formed became a swamp with its characteristic growth of long graiwea and scrubby willows, • Diligout inquiry among the older resident* of tho neighborhood has failed to elicit anything trustworthy oonoemlnt) it* hiBtory. Thoro IN a dim tradition indeed that when this region wan urvt via- itod by whiten tho mound marked the elte of a flourishing Indian village, bul it in impossible to Hay just how muoli credence should be given to this story, Nothing an yet taken from tho mound would indicate (but its bulldem had evei had any dealings with tho,representa- tive* of civilization. —Sun Fraueinoo Kx- amiuer. Few hoi'Komen will take dul'eut iu gooa grotto when they bull wo Unit they wwo dofdiitud through it blundering or u designedly unjust decision. Tho Haying tlmt»"Un)V(> uro two quarto of OU(H in {ho currycomb und four In tho lu'UHh" ovidonn'H it well belief in tho olllcuuy of What is CASTOR IA Castorla la Dr. Samuel Pitcher's prescription for Infants and Children. It contains neither Oplam, Morphine nor other Narcotic substance; It Is a harmless substitute for Paregoric, Drops, Soothing Syrups, and Castor Oil. It is Pleasant. Its guarantee is thirty years' use by Biillions of Mothers'. Castorla destroys Worms and allays feverishness. Castoria prevents vomiting Sour Curd, cures Diarrhoea and Wind Colic. Castoria relieves teething troubles, cures constipation and flatulency. Castoria assimilates the food, regulates the ocomach •nd bowels, giving healthy and natural sleep. Cos* toria ts the Children's Panacea—the Mother^ Castoria. M CUtorla li kn excellent medicine for children. Mothers have repeatedly told me of its food effect upon their children." DB. O. O. OSOOOD, LowoU, Han. •* Caitoria to the best remedy for children of which I am acquainted. I hope the day Is not far distant when mqthen will consider the real Interest of their children, and urn Caatorla instead of theTariousquaek nostrums which MB destroying their loredones, by foralbg opium, morphine, soothing syrup and other hurtful agents down their thmatf, thereby sending them to premature gmea." Dm. J. F. CmcHBLOc, Oonway, Ark. Oeatear Company, TT Murray Street, Hew York City. "CaiiorlabBO well adapted to children th»» I recommend It as superior to any preaurlpUon known to me." ' H. A. AROBBB, K. 0., Kl So. Oxford St., Brooklyn, N. T. "Our physicians in tte children'* deput ment have spoken highly of their experience in their outside practice with Castorift, •nd although we only have among our medical supplies! what Is known as regular products, yet we are free to oonfe«s that tbe merit* of OMtoria has won us to look with favor upon It." Hume HOSPITAL AHD Disnusm, Boston, "iir Burra, Put., "HE THAT WORKS EASILY, WORKS SUCCESSFULLY." CLEAN HOUSE WITH SAPOLIO LISTEN EVERYBODY! I am now prepared to do all kinds of blacksmithing, horse shoeing, plow work and general repairing. WAGON MAKER, ' •'• A first class workman in wood is employed in the ing, and we are prepared to do all styles of wagon and carriage work and repairing. US A CALL. JERRY LUCY, Proprietor. Shop opposite mill, formerly occupied by Fred Franzwa. BAR bOGK The Modern Writing Machine la tbe invention ot gauiue, onfalMred by oid-iohool traditions. It baa been brought to perfection Ja jte maohanioal detaila by four yews of experience, backed by ample capital, helped by practical men determined to spare no endeavor to maoafootare H high grade machine which iball produce the beat work with the least effort and ip tbe shortest time, Its price ma? by a little higher than that of others, but the Bar-Look ie made for tbeolaaa who want The Best Typewriter Possible, And the only doable key.board machine tbat writes EVERY LETTER IN SIGHT. KNDOK8SD by those wuo ate it: R, Q. Dun (t- <7o, 8t. Paul, Minn. Ptnktrton National DetentIw A<jen<i)j. (8) New York Ventral t& Hwli-m ttlwr K, R. (10) MMUyan Central K. X. Co ,(10) Damp ort Dally Demowut. Dawnport Dully Tim vs. Superior Evening Telei/rum, national Wall Paper Co. (7) And thousand* of others, i ia your offloe, «nd uulMM you like it yon p»y nothing. Old maahiow •lobaoged Our Argument! Bent on trial the lUr-Look bin a chance to apeak (or i(Mll and to ataud on lt» own merits, wbioh ia juat where we waut tbe Bar-Look to atund. We take nil tbe risk otlte not ' «og you. Whatever typewriter yoo buy, there are typewriter secrete you should know. Our catalogue ooutaiue them. Baud a pnatal for it. The Columbia Typewriter Mfg, Co,, llfitii at., i,»uu» ami mil aw., C H. COLLINS, MANAQCR. NKW YUIIK. . l»tttil Jlriiticli, 'H Uiut ttli Strew t. V

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