The Anaconda Standard from Anaconda, Montana • 24

THE ANACONDA STANDARD: SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 15, 1914 gggyi PHOTOGRAPHS BY UN'DERWOOD NEW YORK mm" nir ini i ml hmmr m. i -n-i mmMiMi 1 mmmmi A NEW CREATION liY LA CROIX, PARIS. TAILORED COSTUME BY BERNARD. A SMART SPRING COAT BY ZIMMERMANN, PARIS. Model of tulle and applique, with tunic of black and Model of Pekin ratine, cut straight in A smart black taffeta coat of a novel design, which A DAIIIXG KVEXIXG GOWX liY PAQUIX, PA1US.

Model supple satin, with corsage of shadow lace and V-cut decollete. A NEW CAPE DESIGNED IN VIENNA. Model of navy blue broadcloth, trimmed with white wool braid. white lace. front and draped in back.

shows the influence of the overskirt. Heralds of Spring Styles New Perfumes for 1914 slippers. Among her ribbon and laces sachets covered with dainty brocade find a place, and sewn into her corsets are small muslin bass of orris root powder, which exude the refined scent of violets. But never is she in the least degree l-ov-erscentedi, or s-subtleand -delicate- NEW YORK, March 14. The last few davs of the ore-Lenten season are with us, and the social whirl is a vortex of gaiety.

A luncheon a The Dansant there, dinners, balls and theater parties come and go in feverish succession. Ash Wednesday will be welcomed by the satiated as the advent of days of rest, if not of penance. Homes are not large enough for these last and smartest of the season's affairs and hotel ballrooms are hired moire silk. This last fabric" is very popular, and is used to especial advantage in my second illustration. Fine French serge is used for the jaoket, and moire for the skirt, whose double tunics are of the serge.

Moire collar and cuffs complete the jacket. The -buttons are moire-covered. It is not surprising, when the separate blouse and skirt idea is applied to elaborate evening gowns, that separate waists and skirts should be widely shown among the shops. One of the smart Parisian ideas is to have a white taffeta skirt with a blouse of brilliant yellow or green moire.or -brat DO YOU suffer from anosmja or hypersomla? This is hot a ridr die, but simply means, in the first case, do you lack the power of smelling, and, in the second, is that pow er excessiv According to your answer so are you apt to miss, In one Instance, the exquisite and refined bouquet of the modern perfumes, and in the other the faculty of being able to choose and appreciate the delicate delights of the odors that have been extracted from flowers. is the odor of these innumerable sachets that the most fastidious nose could not be offended.

"Hearts of Persian Roses!" What "poetry and romance should lie con cealed thoso soented rose petals that the mondaine uses as a special perfume! They may be scattered at will among the shelves of her wardrobe, or Though' it is not the -custom here- as she may wear them inclosed in "some catied Charming waists, which "are an American adaptation of Parisian mod-els, are seen. The most interesting of these are the blouses with peplums. Their shapes vary, as well as the adjustment to the waistline. They are rounded, or square, some are apronlike and others are accordion-pleated or. gathered in under the Among the brilliant-colored waists is a distinctive one of yellow golfine.

In- the East to sprinkle-- gum rosewater and perfume, them with aloes wood at the close of every visit, still the offering of scent as a souvenir to one's friends is on the jncrease since our adoption of many oriental fashions, according to a New York writer. For Instance, who goes to Paris and returns without bringing back some of the fascinating glass bottles which are filled with the most lovely perfume? Every one knows the delicious odor of the Parfume Camia, or yiiK muslin oag, stitcnea into ner gown, but always their perfume is of the most exquisite arid delicious, odor, rivaling even the famous attar or roses that may cost $3 a drop! Perfumed leather, the peau d'Es-pagne, is used by many women to scent their stationery, and it is urged by many that those who employ perfume habitually have a safeguard against infection. The orange trees of Grasse, the irises of Florence, the violets of Nice, are pressed into the service 4of woman, while Arabia supplies myrtle and its resins, India its sandal any of the perfumes of Leutheric, while the Roses d'Orsay and the Bouquet of Violets, used specially for scenting dress shields, the latest whim of coquetry, exhale the most delicious odors. No modern woman is content without adopting some one special per-, fume, and to that one scent she remains faithful. Possibly it may he violets.

If so, she keeps a bottle of essence of violets for using in he hath; a vaporizer stands on her dressing table, that she a little at will on her gown, and in her wardrobe are long, flat sachets of orris root powder that the. shelves and periume her lingerie. Tiny sachets nestle in the lining of her hat and are placed in her satin wood and benzoin and Tonquin its musk. One of the most celebrated perfumes for the bath is eau des Cannes, distilled from fresh halm leaves, and it is said that the daily use of this in the bath and on the handkerchief will materially assist in restoring health and vigor to the invalid. Here is the recipe for preparing eau des Cannes: Take two pounds of fresh balm leaves, one-quarter pound fresh lemon peel, two ounces each, broken fine, of nutmeg, corriander seed, cinnamon and angelica root.

Place these In a still with half a gallon of orange flower water and one gallon -of alcohol 60 overproof. Distill slowly until one gallon comes over, which is the eau des Cannes. English Walking Suits As for coats, these may be Norfolk or otherwise, but they are big, and many of them have hip pockets supplemented by a breast pocket, all of which are roomy enough to accommodate golf balls, tennis balls and extra cartridges. Let it not be Imagined, however, that these English suits are all merely utilitarian. Some, on the contrary, possess a very distinctive smartness and even beauty.

Such, for instance, is the suit of rose-colored kasiimir with pleated Norfolk jacket and skirt, showing groups of box pleats back and front, which is put forward by one shop. thesecommon-sense garments are worn felt hats that look well, rain or shine, or perhaps a rubberized sailor or a beautifully plain Panama. Frilly lingerie waists are, of course, entirely out of place with the mannish-looking suit, and either the white Ascot or the four-in-hand knotted under the collar of. the striped China silk or flannel shirt waist must be recognized as their- proper 'li-lj A STRIKING SPRING HAT BY LANVIN, PARIS. Model of pieot straw, trimmed with tulle and ostrich feathers.

llll failel ribbons having a fancy Jacquard selvage. To sum this letter up, there is a tendency for better this season and less trimming. The large h'p effect is obtained by ruffles, tunics, panniers, and bustle bows. Upstanding frills, Medici collars, V-shaped necks, are up-to-date ways of finishing the neck, and the arms-eye is obliterated with kimono and raglan sleeves. i a NY one who has ever toured England will be impressed by the almost Buddhistic calm with which the provincial Englishwoman strides over all prevailing fancies of novelty clothes, fussy suits and pleasant accessories.

Watch her at the railway station in Salisbury, York or Lincoln," says the New York Press, and wonder at the immutability of that tweed suit, that collar and mannish tie, that big hat with its' uncompromising posies. Three-tier skirts and fussy boleros affect her no more than a prevailing fashion in China. Nothing can disturb the placidity of her tweed and four-in-hand; it is as much a matter of course as that at 4 o'clock she should commence to yearn for tea. There is something compelling about this Immunity from "style" and there Is also something arresting about the comfort of the Englishwoman's clothes. And at last the American tripped so long by French designs, inured, too.

to the fetters of tightly-girt duvetyn and brocade, are being brought around to the strictly tailor-made. Yes. there, is a reaction In street suits! The English influence is at work in our costumes, and for a while at least the public Is going to be converted to the long-wearing tweeds, Donegals, cravenettes and Kashmlrs. We have had enough of skirts in which we could only hop, like the trained poodle at the circus, and this, spring we are going to wear not. only full, box-pleated skirts, but intend to swap the fragile, and enfettering silk petticoat for knickerbockers.

"Suits are going to be plainer and more English in cut frocks even more elaborate and intricate," is the prediction of one fashion oracle. Well, we can stand the discouragem ent of the latter clause, in view of the winged hope that appears with the durable street suit. Many of these English walking suits which are shown have, as has been mentioned, the box-pleated skirt. 5 J. Awning-Striped and Plain Taffeta, Combined with Frills of Maline, Develop This Charmingly Simple Costume.

for the occasion. Here are seen many of the gowns whose style is a harbinger of the spring and summer models. Net and tulle are used in ball gowns a great deal more than chiffon. Taffeta is used as the medium of development ribbon coming through three eyelets on each side, which insures their fitting closely to the foot. The present rage for jet ornaments was brought about by an original and beautiful Parisian actress, who appeared in an elaborate evening gown, wearing a wide jet dog collar, which accentuated the beauty of her skin.

Immediately several society women appeared with similar collars. Jet combs are very smart, especially when worn in white hair. Jet beads, sequins, and bangles lavishly decorate hats and lace gowns. Charming little handbags, shaped like jellybags, are made of moire and taffeta and richly embroidered in jet. Some have an elaborate monogram beaded in jet or rhinestones, although others are embroidered with the real precious stones.

Ribbons are another of the season's fashions. They are used most extensively on summer millinery and for sashes. The grosgrain and moire seem to be among the most used. The popularity for plaids has, as a matter of course, affected the ribbon trade, and the spring ribbons are displayed in all the staple plaids, and a large variety of different color combinations have been made. Ribbons with a cross stripe come in all colors of the rainbow.

The most elegant, ribbons are the hand-embroidered 'taffeta and and silk cord loops form the fastening at the front. Another charming waist has body and sleeves in one, and is made of pea-pod green golfine. Shadow lace over flesh-colored hifCon makes the fronts, which are decorated with green tassels. A green cord with tasseled ends shirrs the lace at the neck. The short puffs of lace peep below the kimono sleeves, and are also drawn up on a silken cord.

These brilliant-colored waists are striking and attractive, but it is doubtful whether they will be- worn in the summer without little coatees to match the skirt, elaborately trimmed with embroidery. There are many novelties in neckwear for the spring season. One style collar is of white moire silk, high standing in the back, with sharp rolling points. A separate "Normand" collar is, made of sheer Swiss and embroidery. The collar part Is laid in pleats and stands up in the back.

On either side a fine wire is sewed, which is bent to form a point. Organdy and Swiss are sheer materials that are being used to make collars and guimpes and are considered very smart. In attending a dance a few evenings ago, I was greatly impressed with the simple footwear worn by the majority of the dancers. The toes were round and graceful. The heel is low and nicely proportioned.

The slippers are laced around the ankle sandal-like, the THE SEUPEST LADY. From the Indianapolis News. Among the very latest fashions this winter at the gambling resort of Monte Carlo is a dress perhaps it may be called a frock worn by Miss Violet a i young Englishwoman, who has earned therewith the title of "the serpent lady." A rattlesnake skin entwines her figure from the bottom to the top, ending at her fair right shoulder; The serpentine adornment is garnished with 1 sequins, all of which were sewn on bv hand. A sequin in American money, is about $2.25, so that 430,000 of them represents considerable inactive capital. COLLEGE GIRLS An unusually large percentage of the young women at Oberllu college Pre dependent either entirely or in part upon their own resources for their college education.

A recent ques-tionaire answered by 325 women in the college of arts and sciences reveals some interesting facts. Of 80 women practically self-supporting, seven are working for all of their room and board; 37 of the '80 have borrowed money; 36 are earning money while studying; 7 are using, or have used, money earned and saved. The indus-tries reported are school teaching, 40; housework, 18; office work, 11; canvassing, 10; tutoring, nursemaid, miscellaneous, work as companion, music teacher, artist, clerk, market gardener, library assistant, postoffice assistant, playground assistant and seamstress. for gowns of all colors and for ail ages. The first illustration Fhows a charming dancing frock worn by the deb-uaante.

It simplicity, caused it to be remarked in these days of 'much drapery. The ibodice and simple all-around pannier are of pink-and-white wide-triped taff.ta. A ep frill of white nraline fell from the low neck-line and from the sleeves. The pannier ends with a ruffle of itself and the un-draped lower skirt is of plain pink taffeta. The stores are showing attractive spring suits and coats pf taffeta and A Combination of Moire and French Are the Materials of This Smart Spring Suit.

A deep yoke is. U-shaped of the same color of crepe and is outlined with a standing frill of creamy lace, having a picot edge of burnt orange. The collar is a continuation of this frill, and is wired and bent to fall away at the sides. Raglan sleeves of crepe, finished with cuifs of golfine, have frills of lace run into a U-shaped cutout below the elbow. Yellow buttons WOMEN POLICE.

If the bill introduced in the New Jer sey legislature by Assemblyman Brana. gan becomes a law, several of that state's cities will soon have women patrolling the streets as police..