The Missoulian du lieu suivant : Missoula, Montana • 18

THE SUNDAY MISSOULIAN, SUNDAY MORNING. MARCH 16, 194T. 0 Tide of Fashion Runs Shoulder High at New York Openings of Designers When short on eggs for scrambling, add a tablespoon of fine bread or cracker crumbs for each egg. Making Clothes For Little Girls Is Lots of Fun rrl 7" 1 it I r.t Battle Rages At Openings Of Designers BY MARIAN YOl'NG. N.

E. A. Service Staff Correspondent New York. The battle of the shoulder lines rages furiously In the spring fashion openings of New York's most famous designers. Tall, blonde and beautiful Sophie Gimbel, head designer at Saks Fifth avenue, scornfully rejects sloping shoulder lines as unbecoming, unnecessary and unworthy of her artistic attention.

She points out that obvious padding has not, existed in clothes of her creation for the past three seasons, anyway. She further points out that nobody is going to find either conspicuous padding or complete lack of padding In any rollection of hers anytime soon. On the other hand, slim, dark, artistic Fira Benenson, chief designer at the equally swank Bonwlt Teller salon, goes all out for sloping shoulders in a nice way. The shoulder lines on Miss Benenson's At rurf BY AMY r-ORTER. Associated Tress Fashion Editor.

It's fun to make clothes for little girls. A scrap of material, a spot of sewing, and there you are. No figure-fitting problems to worry about, no fear that the color won't flatter the face. A child's tummy may protrude a bit, but her face, when It's clean, is practically perfect, A child's dress certainly is a wise choice for the novice seamstress, and succjsses in this "small-scale" dressmaking field often lead on to ambitious projects even to making matched-up mother-and-daugh-ter outfits. One satisfying feature of sewing for the child is low cost.

A sewing expert has worked out a complete spring wardrobe for a four-year-old with coat, hat, five dresses and a playsuit for $10, Could Use Fastel Wool. The coat a double-breasted reefer was made of navy and white checked wool. All materials for both coat and hat fabric, pattern, buttons, thread and "ribbon for the hat cost $4.50, The set would be just as sweet and cost about the same in pastel wool. All the dresses were made of fabrics costing less than 30 cents a yard. The pinafore frock might be made in percale, pique, or in old-time calico.

Little guimpes of batiste or dimity make good change-about costumes of them. Princess frocks are favorites becoming even to a chubby child. Striped pique, gingham, chambray and percale tailor beautifully to this silhouette. Allow an extra inch or two in the hem of all frocks, so that they may be lengthened as required, and be sure to use thread of the boilfast kind, so that when the hemline is changed there won't be a mark across the skirt. Zippers to Match.

Party dresses can be made from the same pattern used for play dresses, using plain or printed pastel dimities and adding touches of white organdy or val lace for trim. For closings you may want matching enameled zippers. Seersucker is first choice for play-suits and rompers, since it doesn't require ironing. Sophie Gimbel's summer dinner dress of off-white pique with off-white bands of ric-rac has a sash of black pique, also ric-rac trimmed. The shoulders are square, but not Fira Benenson shows one of her new short capes, left, with "hug" shoulders with a silk print of interlocking blue circles and tiny white flowers in all-over design on sea-anemone pink background.

There are blue goldfish clips at the neckline, and pink goldfish make the belt buckle. Featured in Fira Benenson's spring collection is the unusual "soupcatcher" day dress of black silk jersey, seen at right. Horizontal, looped draping creates an apron line below the waist and a "soupcatcher" shelf just above it. A Turban for the Spring wiv i'a 1 4: t3.t ware, Maryland, and Pennsylvania) produce only one-twenty-fifth of the nation's meat, yet consume 1 If chic clothes do not droop (shed rather the word not. be mentioned at alH, but they are rounded.

And they do emphasize hips in a way that is charming or hippy looking, depending entirely on your personal point of view. Anyway. Fira Benenson calls her rounded line the "hug" shoulder. And there are plenty of "hug" shoulders in her spring collection, Trimmings, Gadgets. The Benenson trimmings and gadgets couldn't be more subtle, or, in fact, more interesting.

She uses hat buttons on a hat box print, A less adroit designer would have used tiny hat boxes for buttons to match the printed motif. She uses angel fish clips and a buckle on a scorpion print dress; white crocheted hats to match crocheted collars and cuffs on dark silk suite; two gold padlocks to fasten the front of a black silk dinner jacket; short capes with "hug" shoulders, each amusingly called "pretend-it 's-a-jacket." Miss Benenson shows summer afternoon dresses of black organza, transparent at upper bodice and sleeves, but neglects to say just where one might wear them. A new "soupcatcher" drape is used for two day dresses of black silk jersey. Both have shirred sections to create apron lines and a thickly draped look midway between neck and waistlines. The slim silhouette is prevalent throughout the collection.

Lace all American-made is a favorite fabric. Waistlines are slightly lower, and so are pockets. Ming yellows, ginger tones, black and navy, white prints on black are prominent colors. ophie Gimbel she'd prefer to be called just Sophie from now on highlights quilting. Suits, coats, evening jackets and full-length evening coats are of quilted silk jersey and pique, with tiny sequins often dramatizing the diamond pattern of the quilting.

Shirtwaister Fixed. Sophie does such wonderful things with our old favorite, the shirtwaist dress, that it won't recognize itself as an old favorite. The shirtwaister line appears in suave dinner dresses with voluminous skirts of taffeta or faille and tops of alluring, revealing lace. And it appears again in completely charming white silk and white cotton dance dresses with a wealth of handmade detail such as tucks, shirring, intricate stitching to form definite designs. gray" a subtle, pale tone appears again and again In both day and evening clothes.

"Bat-tersea blue" and "teacup pink" are the soft shades of old china and enamel. A "good neighbor" print shows clasped hands. A French poodle print was inspired by a china poodle from Sophie's own collection. Black and pink prints are featured. There's lots of navy blue, and plenty of white.

The turned-back cuff is the spring 1941 trademark of Sophie's collection. Almost every suit or ensemble "As seen in today" yVHATS A FIVE LETTER WORD. MEANING HOSIERY QUAUTY I 5 art giving contranr satisfaction to million! of imart woman avary whrt. Wa'ra sura you'll like them too. Wa hava typa and waight for your avary need.

New Screanlita Shades, Mojud. OS I 6 79C and $100 THE STORE FOR MEN AND WOMEN WHO BUY FOR MEN I'se Our Lav-Away Tlan Smart DRESSES Dress like a mannequin, within your budget! These beau-tifuly styled, well-made dresses prove It can be done. We picked them with an eye to their smartness over a desk top as well as over a night spot dining table! r. I 4 1 mm Typical of the chic shirtwaist-type dresses in Sophie Gimbel's spring collection is this charmer with bright plaid surah skirt and a white lace top. The necklace is of white plastic flowers.

has a little turned-back cuff of dainty handwork. In addition to retaining the slightly broadened shoulder line because she feels that it minimizes hips and waistline, Sophie retains skirt fullness. Skirts are invariably gored for daytime, and there are more full evening skirts than those draped to slimness. The immediate conclusion that Mrs. Average Consumer might draw from a report of the spring fashion openings of Sophie and Fira Benenson both top-ranking in their field is comforting.

It is that she can dress to suit herself for the next few monyis anyway. As long as the designers keep on disagreeing as to whether the slim silhouette with sloping shoulders is better than the subtle full-skirted one with gently padded shoulders, the rest of us will be able to find a wide choice of both types. It's when they start agreeing that we are sunk. If all of the couturiers ever decide that one silhouette is better than all others, we'll wear that silhouette whether like it or not. How to Become An Expert Norman, Okla.

(P) Charles Brown of the University of Oklahoma faculty won $200 recently with an essay on highway safety in a statewide contest. But Brown neither owns a car nor has a drivers' license. His essay urged the teaching of safety in public schools; adult instruction in safety; better highway planning; a state speed law and amendments to the driver's license law that would require a driving test. INDIVIDUAL PIES. Meringue-topped, individual cranberry or cherry pies are a delight to the eye as well as the palate.

Fill tart cases with cranberry sauce, sprinkle with broken nuts, cover with your creamiest meringue and bake 15 minutes in a slow oven. I i ITlflRCH OFFflSWOn BEGINS at HUGHES! THE NEW COATS HAVE EVERYTHING Favored Beige Long coat ensemble, in spring's favored beige. The coat slide fastens over a simple dress, in Crown Tested rayon sheer crepe. STORES OWN WATER SIPPLV. It's own water for use in dry seasons is stored by the saguaro, or giant cactus.

Water is sucked up by its vast root system near the ground's surface, and conserved in the pulpy interior of the main plant. DIFFICULT. A trip to the moon would entail such difficulties as leaving the earth, which is traveling 70,000 miles an hour, and landing on a body which is moving around us at the rate of 2,300 miles an hour. DRESSES SUITS COATS See your entire wardrobe picture for Spring 1941 here! We've the newest of the new in lovely spring dresses suits that flatter every figure to suit every occasion and beautiful coats that are slated for Spring success. And everything is budget priced now pf 3- xj i I 1 Longer Jackets The new longer jacket is interpreted in a femininely tailored suit in Crown Tested spun rayon and wool twill.

Advance hint for spring serving: Mix canned corn and mashed potatoes, season well, moisten with cream, spread In baking dish, sprinkle with cheese and sliced ripe olives. Bake until brown. ITOKI is Cm Of i if- ftp-. latch your spring accessories with a knitted turban in colorful sports yarn and use knitting pins for a gay, decorative touch. Even if your knitting skill is still in the formative stage, you will find this turban easy to make.

Coats that were made with one eye on your figure the other on your budget I Crisply-flared collar-less dressmaker styles fitted, full-skirted reefers super -smart boxies! Smocked, pocketed, pleated, beautifully detailed! Shetlands, twills, cheviots, alpacas, sheer wools, all fully lined. Black, navy, pastels, mixtures. 12 to 20. A small deposit holds any garment m95 (li ft? Exquisitely "0 WW-4 Hals that are beautiful and distinctive to malca I you doubly charming on Easter morning! Toyos, Bakug and Ballis with gay flowers aflutter with misty veils. Come in, let us help you select yours, i By N.

E. A. Service. New York Turbans will be more popular than ever this spring and summer. When fine weather tempts you to greater outdoor activity, you'll need snugfitting headgear that will preserve your coiffure against the breezes.

A Turban for Every Tasie. This turban Is easily knitted even by a tyro. The decorative knitting needles stuck In as "hatpins" give it a novel touch. The only materials you need are five one-ounce balls of sports yarn in any color, and No. 7 knitting pins In 44 mm.

sizes. Follow these directions: Gauge: 9 sts make 2 inches; 7 rows make 1 Inch. Using double yarn throughout, cast on 37 sts and work in pattern as follows. First row: 1. 1, 1.

Rpppat from across. Repeat this row for 34 inches. Bind off. Block plere to measure 40 inches. Fold piece In half.

Shirr pieca at fold. Flace shirred part at back of head and tie ends in a square knot at front, tucking ends under knot. Drape to suit Individual taste, and tack in place. DI AL USE. The arrows of some South Anicr- lean Indians are tipped with a poi sonous substance from a species of frog.

Other tribes use the same frog in dyeing parrots' feathers to increase their salabilitv. HEAVY CONSUMERS. The north Atlantic states Maine. Vermont. New Hampshire.

Massachusetts. Connecticut. New York, New Jersey, Rhode Dela- $795 fitmm OTHER HATS, $1.98 to $15 T4TUGHE The LEADER -The MERCANTILE JLJL "CLOTHES OF CHARM" 131 N. Hisrins Hammond Arcade UiiiOUUA OLDEST. LAICS JI AND IEJT.