The Cincinnati Enquirer from Cincinnati, Ohio • Page 63

foetal Cbents 0 Cberptoljere HE CINCINNATI ftanliom iiotes of SECTION FIVE TEN PAGES SUNDAY MORNING, JUNE 27, 1920 SECTION FIVE TEN PAGES nn ENQUI HH woman who packs many trunks for a summer by the sea 'or In the mountains Is not worried about clothes -fdr her sojourn. She procures enough clothes for any occasion that may arise during the three months or so that she Is away on her vacation. But for the business Klrl, who has Only two precious week; the professional woman; who has, at the utmost, a month for her trip, or fojthej young married woman, who with her man in town all sum- niur and prepares only for the two three weeks' vacation his business grants him, the question of what clothes to take is very important. There Is the weather to consider, fnr instance. may be fair and n- ticient all the and it may uoitse to be disagreeable Just at va-.

all. time of all times! For a pro-1. rainy spell, especially by the lovely organdy und voile dresses Al not be of much use. They will i.it.k-sttdly shivery and flimsy when aneast wind brings a raw chill from ocean. One may have to have dresses alons, for the thermom-.

t. may climb to the nineties, who knows? But suggests at Kast one dark silk frock for cool and suit. a good warm wool The wool "suit may be worn the train, on boat, with a little hat and smart veil and dainty but- are two skirts, the outer one deeply toned walking boots to give the sim- scalloped and piped. The sash of or-l-lc costume special style. Then with eandy has a cluster of pale pink and nort hat and spurt shoes, the wool suit will answer for all-day wear when the weather is cool in vacation-land.

And the little hat and veil will he exactly the thing for motoring. It one is going down in Maine, or up the mountains where it Is likely to cool, it is wise to carry a specially warm topcoat over the arm. It will nice to; have it to slip on over the i (l suit when one arrives and finds lliat a stage or steamer trip atdusk is the end of the Journey. Toga Fgr Special Places. Vacation costumes should be suit-) able lor the place to be visited.

A lot dance frocks will be useless if the; p. ace is informal and nobody dresses' up except on the Saturday night. At wile informal summer resorts blouses' and klrts are worn even at supper and for the evening the more dressy of blouses fine and handmade, I with skirts of plated linen or soft1 uk; Simple frocks of voile and linen, or of organdy or dotted swiss also will suit such places. Then there are the fashionable remits where, even if one boards at a u'nt hotel. She will take part in iirs at the Country, Club, Yacht Club uii Tennis Club.

Here she will need lainty frocks of organdy, net and hu-e, with picture hats and parasols, uiul sport t0gs that must be good-ivking and modern. It is we 11 to have one. costume of -a' kind available. If the traveler is not sure about the environment will encounter, or the diversions that will be offered. As a rule the woman with good-looking, sport clothes' and few pretty frocks of voile and similar fabric, with one dark silk cos-tmne for special occasions, gets along very well in any summer community.

Naturally, If the resort is a bath-in? place, a bathing suit will be required. A formal bathing beach will necessitate a bathing cape," the nicest silk stockings and something de-i-( table in bathing headgear. To a swimmer It will not matter In the least what sort of bathing suit is worn. And If oqe Is a tennis expert, nobody will criticize her tennis togs. Achievement in any sport puts its possessor beyond the consideration of tere clothes.

At a vacation place on the water where boating is the popular provide a rough skirt and special boating shoes. And don't forget a knock-about hat that will shade the ryes and stay on when the wind bl.iws. or a very warm sweater or coat that won't mind a dashing of salty-spray. -The girl in a dainty silk frock, thin-silk sweater and flower-trimmed hat has a poor time of It when Incomes; to boating fun. There material like linen for a summer vacation.

It Is cool on the hottest dayf and seems to 'have more ubstance than fabrics on cool days. This year linen Is the rage. Garden Parties For Debutantes "he Old Custom pf Introducing Young Girls To Society During the Month of Flow crs Has Been Revived Picturesque Frocks Can Be Worn at These Functions. By Anne Rittenhbuse. Ioryright.

19'0. by the McClure News-piler Syndicate. 1 TS a nice idea to Introducn I yung girl to society In June. It chimes ih with the world's conception of early summer of as of the symbolic mental and "oral attitude toward that especial burst of -Nature into full flowering It Is not a new thought that has Just comedo-society. It" la one that Aeema to have taken root suddenly.

The family must have a summer home, of course, one that has that especial burst or mature In full evidence. It cannot done at a summer hotel. But the Possession of a home where there are Irees and open spaces is the privilege-f even those) in America who are not ranked ammg the privileged as the term is understood. This stupendous continent is uu of a'm, their best and gayest In 'mall towns and running close to hot. cities.

The millions of compters who make up the Industrial -itteg of this complex network of labor makes us what we are as a naUon upon such homes In summer to to them for the exhausting lrrlta- 1 1 niUMf4 and Is used not only In the heavier weaves for tailored skirts and frocks, but also In the sheer handkerchief weave which Is Just now more exclusive than organdy. A handkerchief linen frock can be pressed out with an electric bedroom iron more satisfactorily than organdy, which has a limp look, once it has been damp, no matter how smoothly It Is Ironed. however, responds to a sprinkling and pressing like magic and can be made crisp and fresh in a few minutes. In a milliner's window this week there la a delightful "sun hat." as they used to call such models. It has a low, snuggiy.sort of crown made of black taffeta and a very wide, droopy brim of plain white linen.

Over this brim is a deep plaited frill of the linen, buttonholed at the eage in black Shetland wool. The plaitiner is very fine, and the frill projects shadily over the hat brim. Rosettes of the buttonholed plaiting are placed side by side around the base of the silk crown, and each rosette la centered by a big Black-eyed Susan, or deep orange daisy, with a black center. An enchanting summer frock is of white voile with faint green nyures. Deep plaitings of white net hemstitched In green fail from the neck line and cacade down the sides cf the skirt, and there is a sash of wide green ribbon, with ends that fall to the hip at the back.

With this frock goes a hat of white shirred net, the crown of white straw braid criss-crossed over green tulle. At the front is a cluster of grasses with a big white camelia. For a very warm summer afternoon there is an organdy frock, white over palest pink satin an old dance frock could be usea lor the pink foundation. There Dlue "Owers in the center of the 'bow, and small cabtichons of the flowers are sewed to the skirt below the hip. 7 3 it '( 1 Each aiidall they make an attractive background for whatever gayety in the open la scheduled for the hot weather months.

Th mother who has a small and incommodious house in town, or she who is burdened with a large one. Incompetently run, feels the strain of bringing out a daughter and threshes the air to And some way to solve the problem so that the purse is not emptied to provide an atmosphere of brilliancy and well-being. It is because of this crisis, probably, In the affairs of housekeeping that the old Idea of introducing a girl in the summer has been revived: another way of easing the strain. Simple frocks, food that la not prohibitively dear, a tent or two. cane chairs festive porch can be asera-bled into a picture that Is good to look at and good to be in.

Debutante Garden Party. It has long been aald of debutante parties that none of one's Intimates came nor one's important acquaintances; only those who seldom receive cards for any other entertainments. But with the advent of the open air coming-out party, those who are Invited usually come all of them. The world and Its" wife like to eat strawberries under striped tents and drink iced lemonade and tea in-comfortable chairs with cushions pn a flower-strewn porch. -jrkr-, ill 4- th it -i irtY 10 'M i 1 riLf i A A Brim of White Linen rL, -Vrae tL (V Make the Model Above a Be- I A Model In the I Center Is a III VL VA v' Frock of Navy Blue 3j ered Skirt and Pleat- a 1 the Bouffant Hip Kf- JWf Plus VanU- 'M? JM Down Buffles To Sl JW' II II vVt 1 1 GiTe Long Lines.

yilfvMR "fesEftfL i 8 "dl The 3Iaterial of This Gown la Voile White, Flowered in Pale Green. Pleated Frills of White Net Hemstitched in Green, Cascade Down the Skirt. The Hat Is of White Lace and White Straw Braid. They like to put on thlu muslin frocks and wear big shade hats and drift away the hours without the strain of having a dor-en engagements dogging the heels and pressing on the brain. C.

Harrassed and weary women wonder why all our life cannot be ar ranged for the relaxed months after the way of the older civilisations, who could teach us so much if our ears were not stopped with cotton to the call of leisurely methods. They contrast, peevishly, the exhausting strain of a party in a city house with its complexity of detail and its burden of expense with a negligible result and the apparent simplicity of the English garden party. And there's much in a name. "A tea." ays the invited one. with a gesture of contempt and resignation.

"A garden party." says society; "what fun! Let's go." And they do go. all in their best bib and tucker. So It has come about that those who feel the urge to entertain look with an observing eye upon the possibilities" of their porches and open spaces. If there is even one tree. It is accounted a joy.

If there are many, success Is assured, thinks the prospective hostess. i Sunshine may reveal more deficiencies In china and upholstery than electric light, hat it Is more kindly when Mil is I i I MnM filtered through -leaves, aad even I taat which Js "old sums to take on a i If ft i "fri i v. "smmuilv4 r- vv3 1 I On the Right White Organdy Over Shell. Pink Silk, and Formal Little Nosegays of Pale Pink and Blue Flowers Make a Entrancing Cot-tume For Vacation 4 Days. The Sash- bow, Tied in Front, With a Cluster of Flowers Nestling Amid Its Loops, Is a Modern Note.

On the Left Blouses of 8 a i Meteor Are i Vogue This Sum. mer. Tills Blouse Is of Salmon-Color Satin Meteor With AVhlte Embroidery. glamor when the sun begins to sink and the violet shades arrive. Really it Is the most satisfying way in the world to entertain when one Is not burdened with money and a frantic desire to show off the house in town.

Aad If rains, as one may reason ably expect in not weather, well, the porches and the flower-filled interior look very attractive. Far better this annoyance than the overheated rooms In mA km 4m.KI1- Ity of the parlor to hold the people with comfort. The uccess of the debutante parties in June of this year has brought Into full play the fashion for garden parr ties, the real English-French variety, and the small town and suburban houses have suddenly appeared to their owners as treasures. Maybe General Pershing "was responsible for the fashion, although no man would be quicker to disclaim responsibility for a social fashion. He gave a memorable one last summer In Paris In a great garden hemmed in by ancient walls in the heart of the old part of the loveliest city in the world, and he repeated It this sum- mer In his homa near Washington.

He' cleverly adopted the old-world custom of 1 entertaining In the open. and he stood, that day In Paris, surrounded by the Important officers in our army and all that portion of the American war colony that had been invited to meet. the French aristocrats and llter-: ary celebrities who had made him welcome. Possibly it wi the memory of that historic garden party that Impelled the American General to give "ian- other this summer. And possibly, b- if rjsr? v'4 cause of his example, the minds of other Americans, rich and not rich, fashionable and not so fashionable, decided that it was a good way to pay oft obligations or merely try to give pleasure.

So garden parties became the fash-Ion. Long may they remain. They open, wide the safe channels for suc cessful' entertaining and bring to our hectic rushtng about in search of pleasure an hour of serenity in which the cup of tea beneath the bough takes on new luster. The successful attempt to make garden parties a fashion of the summer has brought out much In the way of smart thin frocks. The much-ahused sport costume has disappeared under the stress of criti cism.

It permits Its substitute, the muslin or other transparent gown, to assert its right to be considered the proper thing for social occasions after the noon hour. Everywhere there is seen a tendency to shelve the sweater and striped skirt which usurped the place of all other cos turnery as soon as June broke; to limit It to Its rightful hours and occasions, and to reinstate the glorified summer gown which goes with the gs ye ties of summer and gives to them the atmosphere of slight formality that they deserve. As if foreshadowing this advent of the garden party into American life the dressmakers have turned out alluring thin frocks as from a tip-tilted cornucopia. The assortment is astounding. Grenadine and voile are not far apart, organdies are the same, so are muslins; figured batiste Is wanting because it was not but Its substitute Is its twin slater.

Colored taffeta is desirable again and it comes now, as then, in oyster color IK-V'1 This Alluring Little Traveling Hat Is of Gray-Blue Straw Braid, Very Light and Flexible. The Brim Is Qovered With Forget-Me-Nots. Two Big Amber Pins Project Smartly at One Side. ing to be worn with a necklace of amber beads or one of jade. Faille has usurped the place of satin, crepe is the preferred fabric over chiffon, wide-brimmed hats are faced with color, and bunches of colored flowers are placed in the belt.

The neck is low end the sleeves are short, as they often were in the days at White Sulphur, Saratoga and Long Branch, when the end of the war allowed society to foregather. Even lace mitts have returned to fashion to take the place of long gloves of leather, the price of which makes them prohibitive to those with slender pusses. The chignon of those days, a "waterfall" as it was then has been brought again into the picture of the hour: temple curls are no longer a novelty. A girl of the season is not a far cry from her grandmother when she goes to a garden party in a costume that is fresh from the press, bespeaking in its frills and ribbons, its laces and flowers a likeness to those ladies who stare at us from the pages of the family album. One almost expects a curtesy.

What a pity it has gone out! There are some who could afford to bring It back, if only out of affectation. It so matches the clothes we wear. Of course, one must make due al-, ABOUT OUR BT FRAHCES M. SMITH LTHOUGH we find that the Snyder, or Snider, family made homes in Xew England, we cannot say that they are among the "multitudinous ancestors who wore smooth old Plymouth Rock." In other words, no one pf the name came over on the Mayflower so foolish of them not to have stepped aboard! the Snyders are very worth-while ancestors, so let us get acquainted at once. Tou may spell your name Schneider, nr Snyder, or "Snyders, or Snider, or Sneider, or perhaps you are only a one-syllable person that Is, you are 8nead or Sneyd.

All of these names come from the Norse word snlddarl. which has the same meaning as the Anglo-Baxon snidere, or hewer or cutter. In accord ance with this derivation of the word the heraldic charge of one branch of the Sneyd. or Sneed. family Is a scythe.

Records of the Schneider family, or Snyder, are found in the New England Historical and Genealogical Register; Bucks County." Pennsylvania, by Da-1 vis; The Perklomen Region. Pennsylva nia; New Jersey Records, by Chambers, and Burke's General Armory. While the nsual orthography of the name In New Jersey Is Snyder, In Pennsylvania It Is more usually spelled Schneider, or Sneider. Pennsylvania seems to have been the place most favored by the Schneli ders, or Snyders. as they usually spell the name In the Keystone State.

One, Simon Snyder, was Governor of the state In 1808. In 1765 John Peter Snyder, or Nicholas Snyder (a little uncertainty on part of present writer as to the first name), came to Philadelphia to see how he could help the town along. He helped make roads a good beginning and his pay was the modest sum. two shillings per day. His wife was Catherine Elisabeth Stantz.

of Tork County, and their Sock numbered about all they could provide for on two shillings a day. As Nicholas seems to be the name of one son. we will take It that Catherine's husband was John Peter Snyder. The I family prospered and Nicholas became the owner of acres numbered by the hundred. Be kept lowance for the striking difference shown in the skirts of to-day and yesterday.

There were none so short then as now. The knee is the limit, it seems, for those who follow the style in its -entirety. And as stockings have become mere fragments of silk, not even hiding the skin, one often gets the shock of seeing a woman In a costume that is so nearly that of a bathing suit that carelessness Is surmised. Tou feel about it as you do when yeu dream the universal dream that you have gone into the street half clothed and cannot find shelter. The strictly tailored woman has disappeared along with the one In the sport costume this summer when society assembles for any occasion that does not occur in the forenoon.

In truth, the tailored costume has not been much in evidence for more than a year, despite the fact that it has unusual fitness for the It was these two kinds of clothes, you must remember dominated our wardrobes not long ago, and seemed to serve the wijman over here for every hour of her life in which she was awake. She neglected the conventional afternoon frock because she insisted that it was troublesome and that it compelled her to rush home from activity to and she preferred to neglect soolety if it caused her this especial bother. So she went as she ws to whatever presented itself between the hours of 4 and 7. Now she has change'd her mind and her methods. It may be due to the incoming of pleasant wjather.

It may. be that she Is weary of the extreme simplicity of the sweater and plaited skirt, or the Jacket, skirt and severe blouse. She has other ideas about dress In her head, however, and she permits them full sway when she goes about these hot days to her afternoon pleasures, such as garden parties, for instance. Picturesque Effects Sought. She has decided to look picturesque.

Possibly this is a reaction from the war uniform. Xo one knows. She may not have been aware how very picturesque she had decided, to be, in mass, but the month of June found the American women arrayed in the kind of clothes that were once associated with our blizzards of heat, the -things that the English have never given up. To-day there is a clever building up of the -pictorial with attenuation that suggests magic. How it is done 1a beyond cataloguing.

Somehow the modern young woman has managed to make narrow skirts, showing the leg, give the Impression of modesty. Possibly the side curls and the picture hat with its sweeping brim keep one's eyes off the brevity of the skirt. When she wears skirts that are flounced, and this she "often does, the fabric clings to the figure with the transparency and grace of the drapery of a classic dancer. Were the Duncan and the Morgan dancers responsible for these modern skirts? one feels compelled to ask. These flounces are often plaited and not gathered, and there are always three of tlu'in.

The blouses are varied, some and many are arranged to give the long-walsted effect, difficult as that Is with muslin or organdie. Sashes are quite In fashion. True, they are tied in front to give exaggeration to -the figure and a dash of impudence, but the conservatives continue to tie them at the side or in the back, not in the least afraid of Toeing old-fashioned. A garden party without a sashed frock, by the day, would not toe according to well, to Jane Austen. The desire to be ribboned is as great now as It was in the days of Charles II.

The sash Is an easy way to dispose of yards of material, and there are few frocks that are not frankly buflt with the voluminous girdle In mind. Ribbon Is not the only fabrio for them. Organdie has appeared' It Is a novelty, but it is satisfying. It has been cunningly placed on frocks of black Georgette crepe In imitation of tho Parts fashion for putting Bashes of white tulle on black tulle frocks. When there is a Puritan collar of white organdie to match the sash the tffeet Is Individual.

ANCESTORS rELEANOR LEXINGTON) to the old home place In Pennsylvania. Jacob Snyder was one of the soldiers of the Continental army. He was a descendant of Johannes Snyder, or Schneider, of Pennsylvania, the founder of a large family. His son, Henry Snyder, was the father of Jacob, the soldier 1770, whose spouse was Magdalene Gerhart, daughter of Peter Ger-hart. Catherine Relnert was the wife of Henry, father of Jacob.

Ja cob inherited land which his grandfather Johannes purchased In 1718. Jacob and Magdalene Snyder were the parents of Henry, whose wife was -Anna Nyce. Their children numbered seven. Henry achieved a war record as a Colonel in the War of 1812. Another soldier of the name was George Schneider, but not la the American army.

He came over In 1762, an officer In the British army. Families allied with the. Schneiders Snyders of New Jersey and Pennsylvaniaare the Hookes. Gilberts. Clewells and Drexels.

The Wise family Is another connected one. The name Sneyd Interests us as that of Major John Andre's sweetheart tho Andre whose1 tragic fate is familiar to all. In 1769, in England. Andre met Hon-, ora Sneyd in the literary circle of Miss Anna Seward. It was a case of mutual attachment, but their marriage was not approved by her parents.

Andre was sent to cool his love in his father's counting house in London. In 1771 he came to America as a soldier. and attbe time of his death was aid-de-camp to Sir Henry Clinton. Happily, Honora died shortly before her lover met his fate, nor was he aware of her decease, end at the time of his1 capture he concealed her miniature portrait in his mouth. The heart of Andre was all the time true to Honora Sneyd, although he did beguile the time of his sojourn In America with a mild flirtation now and-then.

The blason of the accompanying cut is: Arms: Gules, a lion rampant argent, on a chevron or. three shells sable. Crest: Out of a round turret, a Cornish chough volant. Who would not like" a nightingale for a crest? And this unusual charge Is found on one family armorial. His wings are spread, according to the bla- son, and his mouth open, as if about to thrill us with song.

Stars shining through clouds are stlU another Nsnm..