The Inter Ocean from Chicago, Illinois • Page 13

121. rated on the border ef that country ana A not bet larx canvas Is entitled "The CniCAGO, SUNDAY, JULY 23, rftfPilfr REPUBLIC World's -HUSS ILLUSTRATED. Rapid Development of Country. a Great Manufactures and Industries of Buenos the Chicago of South America. In bo part of tbe great Mann fart ores Ve'lding i there a more Interesting col-leetive exhibit than that made in tie spare in the southwest corner of the building, devoted to the interests of the Argectine Re-jrablic.

It is by no means an exteasive ex- ARCENTTNT. EXHIBIT IX libit as rmaptml with thv. mil by some of tbe European eeantrles. bat it In complete and comprehensive, and Illustrate ia a particularly intelligible way the material resources of a great country which for a score of yars ha, from a variety of raovt, been krpt in the WkjroaaiL Bat the republic forging to the front. There is evidence of this in her Increased trade relations, ar.d In the development of all internal roorm.

which latter fact is magnificently Illustrated In her Colombian exhibit. The Argentine's floor space is not extensive, but Commissioner (General Gal-lard a has made the moM of it. It Is located between Jamaica and MesU-o, and directly opposite the Italian exhibit. On either end of the Argentine section is a large open spare devoted to cases, in which are shorn a vast quantity of agricultural product, direct and indirect, the finer grades, together with innumerable samples of raw and manufae-tared textile fabrics, etc. It is probably news to many of the visitors that in Buenos A res.

for Instance, is manufactured about everything produced in anv other of tbe world's great cities, so crude Is tbe general tdeson the subject. Being tbe principal eitv in the republic a large majority of the exhibit casea are filled by business hrms in that city, bst enough is shown to prove that there are many other Important manufacturing and business points. The central portion of the Argentine Republic's space is enclosed, forming a couple ef good-sized rooms largely oevotco to nne and lib ral Arts. In one of these rooms there are tone noticeably fine paintings, bronzes and oarbies. The most attractive eanvas a canto of a celebrated poem written by Nunez de Arre, ne of tht early writers who e-rapied an exalted in tbe literature sf the land.

It snows the great reformer, Martin Luther, cowled and hooded, standing at the peak of an abruptly rising toonntain ana looking down with evident Aisfavor on tbe revels being carried on in ABGrXTIXE EXHIBIT IX the valleybelow by men and maidens. The latter represent tbe wickedness ef Borne. Tbe hols psrtirre is a beautiful allegory, and la eseeated la a not masterful cuaacr. few pass this room, which entirely open on the strst H. without pausing to admire this work ef art.

Other pictures reproduce the great fall of the aeenery around which la sot nnlHce that as Niagara. The fill w--r Keturn from tbe Raid," and la a remark ably strong production. The foreground is Blled with brigands returning from an expedition which plainly had for its object the sacking of a church. Church decora tions of all kinds and various articles used at the altar are held aloft by riders. Bound to a horse ridden by one of the brigands well in advance or tbe otbers is the uneon- elous form of a beautiful young girl, evidently kidnaped and belay carried away to be held for a ransom.

There are dozens of other pictures in this room, all showing a remarkably high state of art development in a country not generally riven credit for having schools wherein much attention is paid to the finer side of life. Our exhibit here," said Secretary Att well, in pea kin or of the showing made, "is the best oossible evidence of the nrosncritv of tlx; country. It is true that the Argentine Rrpublie has seen as many dark days as usually befall a country, but she has survived them all, and for a number of years has been a rood deal more than holding her own. Hhe has bee'n improving- in every way. Tbe davs of financial disturbance were blessings in disirulse for tbev wined out a crest manv 'paper' corporations of all kinds and left those which were founded on something more substantial than rait wind and blue sky.

In a business way it hat been a sur- JIAXlTAfTfRES BLTLDIXO. viral of the Attest, and the effect has been in everv wav advantageous to our best commercial interests. A few figures ill illustrate this, lietween ls.j and the lDnrr of incoming and outgoing steamers and sailing vessels from the port of Buenos Avres increased nearly four mil lion tons. Iuring last year the import were and the exports SU3.CW.W lemvlnir a balance in favor of theft rountrv ol This was an increase in Wj of Rtuxiuno in imports and fJ.Stt).UiQ in exports. The figures for the first th months of the current year show the value of the imports to be Uuu.UU and tbe ex ports fcC.uuO.OUO.

a balance of (1 l.UUl.UUO in favor of the country. These tignres will repay analysis, fur they prove much. In the exhibits made by the" Argentine Republic in the various buildings and she has space In agriculture, forestry, and mines in addition to the general display made in Manufactures building there i evrrvtblng calculated to show that it is i great and growing country, or, more properly speaking, a great country being rapidly developctl. It is a country for which railroads are doing much in the way of bringing out resources, one of the manv immediate results of railroad building being the opening of up mining industries, which are destined to become one of the country's richest sources of wealth. The mining area of the republic is n-arlv nine times greater than that of (treat Britain.

In the provinces of Cordoba, Catamarca, La Rioja. San Juan. Jnjui, Salta, and Mrndoza alone nearly three thou sand mining concessions have been granted for the exploitation of gold, silver. copp-r, coal, iron, petroleum, samples of all of which are shown in the Mines building. Throughout tbe entire republic this is an Industry to which great attention is paid and into which each succeeding year larger capital is being invested.

In tbe Mines building tbe Argentine Republic's mineral exhibit is in charge of tiustav Xlederiein, aa expert who bas for many years been in government employ and who is thoroughly versed In all Argentine mln lng and mineral matters. One of tbe republic's natural products FORESTRY BTJILSrfO. which are quite likely to est a figure ia the eosBmerelal Interests between this country aad that are her woods. Of these she has aa aausual Bomber, and Commissioner Hoskold bas placed beautifully finished samples of them la tbe Forestry building to toe best advantage. Acquainting American manufacturers with the good features of high grade cabinet material with which thev t.MtAfn.

been entirely unacquainted. There Is prae-tlrally no limit to the Argentine's forestry. Her woods are not Imported aim sly beeausa they are unknown for them. and there la no demand falls hav, in fayt, been dubbed the Niagara "of the Argentine Republic They are lo JOHN BROWN'S FAMILY The Man of Harper's Fame. Ferry HIS SONS AND DAUGHTER.

Visit to Their Homes in dena. California. Pasa- One Who Lived Has Suffered Intensely and Above the Petty Annoy ances of Life. Pasapexa. July Special Corrt $ponUnct.

The children of the great usually attract our attention, aside from any interest that may be attached to them personally. They are apt to shine in a reflected light that emanates from the halo surrounding the heads of tbeir fathers. But I know of one whowe own charm and beauty of character make it a privilege to know her. even though her father had not lent her his glory. It is Ruth Brown Thompson, the oldest daughter of John Brown, of Harper's ferry fame.

A winding road that leads off from the iouth of Pasadena weaves Itself in and out down the hillside for nearly a mile, through uniform orchards of apricots and groves of dark orange trees, like a gold thread through a gorgeous green brocade. Now and then a grand old live oak by the wayside affords momentary shade as we pass along, and blends its gray-green foliage with the delightful color scheme about ns. Here and there a graceful eucalyptus rears its proud bead to the height of two or" three hundred feet and breaks tbe monotony. The eucalypti are natives of Australia, and as they peer above every other thing, even the very hilltops, they seem to be try ing to catch a glimpse of their native land; or, as they wave back and forth in the breeze, to be signaling to some old com rade in that far-off land. The road goes on a little further through a crazy quilt of wild flowers and comes out at a short lane tending to our right.

Tall sentinels in pepper tree uniform standing guard on either side of the path let us pass between them unmolested, and at the end of this lane stands a low, unpalnted, one-story frame bouse. A veranda covered with roses runs the whole length of the front and an immense fan palm stands at each rndv A hammock swings in one cor ner of the veranda and a number of easy chairs occupy the opposite end. The whole exterior represents an artistic and home like appearance. It is tbe home ef Ruth Brown and her husband, Henry Thompson. We were met at the door and cordially welcomed Mrs.

Thompson. She is a woman under medium height, perhaps TO years of or more, but she does not show her age aad looks younger. Her skin is soft and white as a girl's, and her mild 0 77 HOME CF JOHN BROTN'S blue eves are full of expression. There is something pathetic in her smile, and her face Is that of one who has suffered in tensely, yet has borne herself above the petty annoyances of life It is a lace like that Andrea del Sarto gives one of his beautiful madonnas. A white mall cap with a frill of lace about the front crowned her head of reddish brown hair, that shows little gray, and a knot of white at the throat relieved her simple gown of black.

She has been a woman of vigorous constitution, but is somewhat broken in health now from nerv ous trouble. The unpretending little parlor in which we were received bears evidences of refine ment, and is very cheerful. The floor is covered with Japanese matting and the walls are a quiet tint of the same color. Over the mantel at one end of the room hangs an unframed painting of John Brown's grave, and on the shelf below it rests a large red morocco Bible, left In his will bv John Brown to Henry Thompson. To the left of the mantel a large engraving of John Brown, representing him as a young man.

covers a large space of tbe wall; to the right a niche in the room is occupied by tbe melodian nsed at John Brown's funeral at North Elba. A eravon portrait from a photograph taken shortly before bis death bangs on tbe opposite wall and all about tbe house are souvenirs of Mrs. Thompson's father. An old-fashioned table in the center of the room held a number of late periodicals, and I noticed the morning papers among them. Both Mr.

and Mrs. Thompson are well informed and converse Intelligently on all topics of tbe day. And there are a great many books about their home. Xbey have but one unmarried aangnter; she is an instructor in a school near by. Mr.

Thompson Is over six feet tall and looks as much like late pictures of Count Tolstoi as though he bad sat for them. He waa with John Brown In Missouri and Kansas, and again at Harper's Ferry. His who le fa rally have been closely connected with the Browns for many years. Mr. and Mrs.

Thompson eeleorateo tne fortieth anniversary of their marriage two years ago ia September. On that occasion Iney received, many aisungnisnea jbctw, and were the recipients oi many nanasome gifts. I asked Mrs. Thompson for permission to sketch her home, which she readily granted me, but when I attempted some conversation In regard to her father a look of pain came into her laee, ana A reirainea irons asking further questions. But after A nad snaoe reaay ior wora outside hoisted my white ambrella and adjusted ray sketching tackle Mr.

Thompson came to where 1 was sitting and aald that if there were any questions I would like to ask him he would be glad to answer them, aa it pained his wife, since her 111-nesa, to speak her father. I asked him If I might see some ox ine letters and other relics of John Brown I knew they possessed. For answer ha went into the house and brought out a number of Interesting things, INCLUDING THE ILLUSTRATED SUPPLEMENT. among them the last letter John Brown wrote Mrs. Thompson from Harper's Ferry It is framed between two pieces of glass, so that it may be read easily and yet pre served.

Tlie letter Is written on both side an ordinary-sized sheet of writing paper yellow with time, and worn through in many places where it has been folded; but none of tbe letters are obliterated, and the old-fashioned, cramped handwriting is read without difficulty. Throughout the letter a calm fore bet ranoe toward his enemy is maintained, and in It be declares the scaffold has no terrors for him but great anxiety for his family is evident, and all his concern seems to be for them. Mr. Thompson told me that John Brown's field glasses, his saber aad his gun, brought from Harper's Ferry after the terrible struggle in had been sent to the World's Fair frail Instruments, yet they have outlived the strong hand that wielded them. But he showed me the revolver Owen Brown, John Brown's second son, carried in Kansas, Missouri and Harper's Ferry.

It is one of the old-style, loose ammunition revolvers, so large that it looks like a compromise between a revolver and a gun, and on the handle is O. B. picked with a point. Next he brought out the gun that Oliver Brown, one of John Brown's younger sons, took from Lieutenant Brocket at the battle of Black Jack, in Missouri. And as we sat under tbe swaying branches of the peaceful pepper trees, with merry mocking birds flitting above our heads, each zephyr bringing the perfume of orange blossoms, he related tbe history of tbe long strife in which the silent old firearms lad played so conspicuous a part.

Their -cry rust and mold seemed in keeping with the gray hairs of the good old man whose eyes tilled with tears when he mentioned the name of John Brown. "Do you know, Mr. JOUX MDWS'l DArcBTEn. Thompson." I asked, ''when John Brown first conceived the idea of Uncrating tbe slaves, or what first aroused bis interest in their twhalf Without hesitating he, replied: "When John Brown was 13 years old his father sent him from his home ia Ohio to drive lot of cattle to market in Pittsburg; and the landlord at the hotel here he stopped in Pittsburg became quite interested in him on account of his precocity. John Brown on the other hand, took a great fancy to colored boy, near his own age, who Old errands about the hotel; but the landlord remonstrated with hint for having anything to lo with the colored boy, anl John Brown noticed the little fellow was badly treated He asked the colored boy why it was, and was told it was because he was a slave snd Mr.

Thompson added: "John Brown then and there pledged his life to bettering tbe condition of the colored race." "Do you know why John Brown left the church?" I asked. "Yes," he replied, "it was because be and his three sons, John, -Jason, and Owen were expelled from the Congregational church at Kent, then callrtrFranklin. Ohio, for taking a colored man into their own Sew; and," Mr. Thompson continued, "the aeons of the church tried to persuade him to concede hla error. My wife and various members of the family afterward ioined the Wesley Methodists, but John Jrown never connected himself with any cnurcn again.

"What about John Brown's old home at North Elba, New York?" I asked. "It was bought a number of years ago' the way. lives in Pasadena at present, by a syndicate interested in its preservation. HOVE OF OWEX aJTO JASOX BROWX. Kate Field wis one of the first who suggested the Idea.

John Brown Is bnrled there and one of hla sons, Watson." Throughout my conversation with Mr. Thompson he simply related facts aa they existed, and not once did he make an unkind allusion to any one. He was at Harper's Ferry at the time of John Brown 'a death and hla brother William was killed there. bpeaking of Mr. Thompson's generosity reminds me of what a friend told me about Mrs.

Thompson. She said; "We were speaking of the Charleston sufferers at the time of the earthquake, and I aaid I thought it very magnanimous of Mrs. Thompson's brothers to contribute to the relief fond. Mrs. Thompson looked surprised and said that was their doty, tbe bonth had only done what it thought waa right." When the dinner bell rang Mr.

Thompson arose from my camp stool, which I offered him while I sat on the ground, and with his departure we simultaneously brought forth oar lunch of aandwlches from beneath a' conglomeration of paint brushes and tubes ef paint. We were devouring them with a relish, In spite of the fact that they tasted so strongly of turpentine it was hard to tell whether they were bam sandwiches or earn handw iches, when Mr. Thompson reappeared with his hands full of luscious oranges for us, ana an apnjogy from his wife for not being able to entertain os at onner. Owen Brown and bis next younger broths', Jason, have made Paaadena tbelr home tor several years. They lived alone in a little cabin north of town approaching the foothills, and there Owen died a short time ago.

He is buried, by his own request. on one of the highest peaks of the Sierra Madre mountains, commanding a view of the valley below for sixty miles, the mt and even the Islands of the sea. On a recent visit to that sublime spot, aa I stood in tbe wsning light of the fast descending day, it seemed to me that "no man dug that sepulcher, and no man saw it e'er, for the angels of Uod upturned the sod and laid the dead man there." Shortly before Owen Brown death a friend asked him for his autograph and aentlment. Above his name he wrote "The only true religion Is to be true to every human' being, and to all animals so far as it is possible, and be lust." Since tbe death of Owen, Jason has abandoned tbe cabin and lives on Echo moun tain, a point In the Siera Madres, a Junction bf the tiew mountain railway. He is in the employ of tbe railway company, but in lust what capacity I do not know.

Owen Browndieda bachelor, but though Jason ia married his wife and children live in tbe East. He goes to visit them occa sionally, ghd they have been here, but why they are separated no one seems to Know. He 'is an old. gray-haired man, and lives the life of a hermit. Mrs.

Thompson said the only other own brother living resides at Pnt-ln-bay, Ohio, and that he visits her now and then with his family. As the last flush of the sun disappeared from tbe face of the sky we bade Ruth and Henry Thompson good-by, and seldom has it been my privilege to spend a day with people so far above the "narrow prejudices of the world as they. UXa B. Nijcsox. AT A BUCKEYE SHRINE.

Why the Navajoea Went to the Ohio Bolldlng. Its portiere is a blanket and its portico rustles with branches, while Its walls are of clay this Navajo fn'y" house alongshore of the south shore of the World's Fair. This Kogan Is the home of five persons of the Navajo persuasion. three women and two men. Adjoining is the British Columbian Indian house, with its door-poets of grotesque or horrific carvings, the Halda tribe.

Iadeed. the women, wards of these diverse nationalities, interchange sun rise and sundown, the British nation resting herself upon the gunwale of the oceaa canoe aground, while the younr maid of the first American families or tne vt est mis ner 1 ir rrom the international hydrant, whose waste way is a fathom's distance from the nood. Tbe lad of tbe bouse on the American side of "this rivulet of tbe nations" is Mrs. Bamascena Walker, widow of Lieutenant John Walker, Company C. First cavalry.

With her is her nephew. -El Platcro." or the silversmith, also her cousin Mana. A lad and his younger -sister make up the Uve. In charge of these Indian people Is Antonio, an Apache of tbe Chiricahul trit. master of "Enirlisb as she is spoke" in Boston, where be was liberally educated.

Strange to say. all business and personal communication 1 -el seen Antonio and La Damascena is exclusively In Kmrlish. and by her communicated to the rest. The lad speaks some English. None but the widow speak Spanish, who is also familiar with one or two Indian tongues.

Mrs. Damascena Walker has five children at home, snd has lieen a widow five years. Her home is in the t'andn Hon I to. or Fort Defiance, Just over the west line of New Mexico. Just before marrhirur to the pageant of the caravels reception, she had the pleasure of hcarimr read her eldeyl's letter to her.

written In Emrli-n. He tells her be has become a brakeman at 5 per mucth. and thoupa is is about to be married. The letter Is brief and couched in Western United states style. Now the lady of the seea cannot read or write, neither can any save Antonio.

Hut I dount exceedingly whetHer the orstor o( the dar. Hon. John Sherman, of the I nited States Senate, had a more appreciative lady listener in all tbe galleries of the Terminal building or. for that matter, in all tbe courregalion assembled in tbe plaza on that day of the caravels. She marched ia 1 ne and she climbed to the gallery aad reverently watched the venerable speaker, and she went home prostrated after tbe exhausting day.

but she had done her duty, and was deprived oi tne pleasure oi lacing mm by the hand and talking to him out of her grateful scan ior ner people as wen as nerseii. it was but a few days since she knew the name of the great general who had penormed the most Im portant service for her uatinn during three centuries, although his personam Is a permanent imae in the unwritten history. Supposing that the restoration of her exiled nation to their homes in the canons of the borderland of Arizona and New Mexico was tbe act of erace of the commandant, of his own motion, she was Informed that the orator on this day of paireantry was the brother or tne neiovea renerai. their de liverer. Without further light than this point of being nrotners sne maae it amy ana nonor to marrh in the parade and to continue throughout the services in bones of thanking mm (since tbe general was dead for that brother beneficent deed to her nation.

It was told her the next day. when she had re covered from the prostration of thesactea, that the Senator had returned home to his native Ohio, hut she might, as a mother in Israel, for herself, her house, aad all her people, make her pilgrimaire only from the South pond to tbe north pond, within these very grounds of the World's Fair, and render her homage before the bronze statue of the commandant as the first representative of the Navajo people. So on uly 10, as tne snadow on the marble dial near tbe Illinois building marked quarter ot three. Kl Platero and his aunt were duly accom panted by an elderly party from Ohio, who plaved the part of a Commander Davis "near the persons" of these worthy pilgrims. The trio came round by way of the Wisconsin building and halted reverently before tbe great "Tecumaen ahermaa Image on the "Jewels sons group of bronze and made obeisance: then, following the sun round, they gazed on President Oarheld, Ueneral Sheridan, and the rreat War Minister Stanton.

Immedi ately under tbe right hand of the proud mother Ohio above stood the noble Minister ot Finance and subsequent chief justice. Governor Chase, and on hia left General Grant. Kntry was made through the crowded veranda of the Ohio state building and the trio looked back as thoturh the revered commandant would step down from his granite pedestal and follow his devoted pilgrims into the sumptuous apart ments within. The full history of the restoration of the Navajo Indians from the deadly Riverside reservation in tbe lowlands of the Bosque Kedondo of New Mexico to tbeir moun tain homes is it not all written in the Coiwr- nonal Becord and (Hobtt Within tbe Ohio build ing, where Damascene's voice and features met wlta aympatay and appreciation wnen ner nis- torv waa imnarted. 11 was made known to her aad her nephew that this beneficent service for whlcb they bad made tneir gratetui pilgrimage was first made possible in the United States Senate by Hon.

John Sherman and then as matter of administration placed in the hands ot General Sherman, whq performed the work about It waa not until about the same hour in the afternoon that the Senator at his home in Mans field. Ohio, was apprised of the gratifying tact that one of his many noble acts of statesmanship had been duly appreciated, and that during his discourse at tne ceremonies of the reception of the caravels from Spain, a native Navajo group gazed lovingly upon his head and noted his features and in tneir nearts rendered nomage to him and his illustrious brother in tbe gratitude of true children of nature. They walked with obeisant thankfulness around the sanctuary of patrlotto service, this statue group of Ohio's Jewels, and had the felicity of feeling that this simple observaace was regarded by the people within this State building aa the Joint act of all, and that it was merely another big day for Ohio. An apprentice from the famous Sugar Alley printing bouse of Columbus, Ohio, recalled as he wiped the inside ot his glasses: This reminds me of Senator Sherman's former Con- resaional contemporary from Ohio, lion. Joshua Glddings.

who wrote another historic tte out of the (rioo. on the '-Exiles of Florida," a tribe whose champion he was. Mr. Shermsa had here in the World's Fair the living obeisance of his -Exiles." whose champions he and hla brother, the general, were. "To live in tne nearta we leave behind Is not to die." G.

Aluminium Horseshoes. North Middle ton, (Ky.) Adraacs; The new aluminium horseshoes are not a howling success by any means, as was predicted. and until It is tempered so as to stand necessary wear on the track, the metal for horseshoes is practically useless. John T. Hedges of this place, who had a horse shod with tbe new shoes, had them removed at the end of two weeks' wear, they being completely worn out.

Have your eves examined free of ehsrre and correctly fitted by Borsch. Chicago's practical and scientific optician, 103 Adams, pp. P. O. VENETIAN SKETCHES.

Part Second A- wtPT C. 4U A. How To uflsts MDon, Europe in a Hurry. LIKELY THE NEWLY RICH, Sights Viewed from Portico. a Floating The Extortionate Gondolier Gay on the Lagoons Gorgeous Palaces.

Life All tourists who stop at the Hotel Cos-mopolltaln in Venice, as they study the two imposing water-bound edificea of which it is composed, learn that the palace of To-rello and the smaller one of Coorlo were transformed into this hospitable menage. Both exterior and interior communication has been provided for. The thick stone partition between the two structures has been eat through and a floating bridge connects tbe two high marble steps. Since the old-fashioned chambers are not the most desirable resting place for the modern traveler this buoyant portico is the favorite rendezvous of gnests. There is a -e mm.

la'- fi'f ON THE profusion of laurel roses on the deck and the attendants furnish the visitors with fautenils, bamboo chairs, little tables, and foot-rests. This veranda has become the more popu lar since a class of tourists has been called into existence of late who travel only for the sake of being able to say that they have traveled. It must be reluctantly admitted, says M. Hector Malot in the Figaro IUiutre, that the majority of Americans do not come to see and to learn, but include a 9 mmm ix 3 norsE ntoxTxxo tbb Rrvxx. three months' European tour among their educational duties, and seek to fulfill the latter with as little fatigue and embarrass ment as possible rather than enjoy it as a "voyage de plaisir." Arrived at an im portant point on the programme they are driven to some well-known Jeweler, where a coin is chosen, name and date of visit are engraved on the memento and tbe morrow of its delivery is anxionsly awaited so that anotherfiftv miles may be undertaken.

To tourists of this category tbe cherished portico of the Cosmopolitain is most propitious. On the return from the goldsmith fautenil is monopolized and some light literature shortens the weary wait. If the book does not remove the ennui a familiar air is whistled. Tired of whistling (a rare thing with Americans) the laurel roses mav be inspected; tbe blue sky of sunny Italy, with its reflection on the green waters of the canal, mar induce sweet re pose with dreams of love and romance, or from this point Venetian life may be viewed on tne ever busy gondolas or the navigating omnibus, whose helix, as it passes the bridge, raises splashing waves on the planks. Comparatively few visit the ducal palace and the academy, the exceptions practice their inherent vandalism and cut out souvenirs from furniture and draperies to help swell the collection taken from tbe death-chamber of Goethe, the study of Luther and from other historic monuments of the continent.

When the hotel is crowded every seat is occupied on the portico, and it is advisable to engage a garcon or maid to reserve the chair nntil your return from the salle a manger. And for many reasons it pays to secure a comfortable seat, for no where ia a more picturesque sight as Tvvcma outtxq. afforded of the watery city with its lagoons and bridges. Like a mighty furnace tbe setting sun spreads its farewell luster over this busy center of ancient structures, hoary sanctuaries, and qnalnt vessels, and paints tbe water a bright golden color, in wmcn ids ouuamga wuu their cupolas are tremblingly reflected. The arrival oi tne evening iwiiijfin is tne 1 hsl J.

A mm is, PAGES 13 TO 24. signal for the hailing of gondolas for evening And here eoiftes In the peacemaking office of tbe hotel porter between tbe tourists and the extortionate gondoliers, in which he manages to retain the latter'a friendship and tbe former's "bonhomie." What cyclopedia of gossip would be unclasped if one of these swarthy attendants who so gallantly helps be ladies to their boat-seats and back again on the veranda would his tales unfold! How well they know 'the guests, how condescending their mien to the well-known shabby genteel, to tbe habitual- frequenter of indigent nobility I With what deference do they address the American and her chaperon! Ah, even these old attendants whom the monotony of a daily repetition of the scenes of a pleasure resort has rendered blase and phlegmatic worship the Mammon idols, and can muster up kindly smiles at the chink of gold. There Is but a short pause between the commercial life of the daytime on the canal and that of pleasure and repose. As on large thoroughfares in metropolitan cities the heavily loaded transfer and delivery wagons are replaced at night by a parade of costly equipages, and tbe parcel-laden crowds by fashionably attired prom-enaders and stylish coquettes, so commercial Venice abandons the water before sundown, the rough and practical business vessels are moored, and trim, artistically painted gondolas with festive companies monopolize the wavy thoroughfare. From the little rivers which empty into this larger body of water and which intersect the city streetwise there is a constant advent of small and large parties, in fact the whole city is rowing or being rowed -or bangs from the windows viewing this curiously interesting scene.

PORTICO. It may be Imagination or not, bnt all who have heard an evening concert on the canal assert that there is an enchantment in the mnsicnot enjoyed on terra firm a. As its first notes resound near the Cosmopolitain, all the boat-riders flock around the players, and the hand-clapping and applause at each wind-up may be heard far and wide. Nothing is sweeter than the beautiful solos, duos, and quartets of Italian singers on their gondolas: the Joyful gayety of their voices, the enthusiasm bf the auditors, the reflected lights in the water, the incessant splashing of the oars, everything contrib- utes to tbe poetry and romance of the Venetian lagoon with itserowded elnrterof islets and bridges. The mind ts-rallons indeed that remains cold before this picturesque tableau.

Mnch of the music lacks tbe tinesae of culture: much of singing is of the untrained variety: of the houses are old and weather-worn "and all show the signs of ancientness, bnt still everything possesses a certain- freshness for the traveler and a pleasing variation from the uniformity of riverless cities. Here we are not driven in front of stony "trottoirs" and received by the liveried footmen of the hotels and residences. Instead the gondola halts alongside the massive steps and an obliging gondolier escorts you to the entrance. The carriage rattle is a rarity, but there is an everlasting commotion on the water. There certainly is in all Europe no city more famous, mbre singular than no place on the globe offering greater novelty to voyagers.

Here is also the famona Plaza of St. Mark, and in the vicinity are located the fine art galleries of Sal viati, with their precious specimens of mosaic glass. All along the lagoon are the gorgeous palaces of the noblesse casting their moonlight shadows weirdly upon the green mirrors. Days may be 'spent to adJrantage in tbe museums, where the great works of the old masters, are scrupulously guarded. the celebrated glass works, whose em ployes beat the world in the production THE CASAL SOLOIST.

of artistic and snperbly polished gems; on the island of Mnrano beyond the historie Bridge of Sighs, among the old-fashioned dwellings of tbe contented glass-blowers, where everybody knows everybody else, where fathers and grandfathers and greatgrandfathers have labored in the same profession in the past centuries, and where all workers are obliged to retire at the age of 50 because the dazzling light and glaring heat of the oven rendered them totally blind at that age. Tbe St. Mark church dates from the ninth century, with -decora- tions from the tenth, Uothie additions from the fourteenth, and renaissance alterations of the seventeenth century. It is tbe pride of Venetians. Above tho doorway are still displayed the four horses which Marino Ieno brought from Constantinople in -1205, and which Napoleon confiscated and took to Paris lnl7U7.

bnt which were restored in 1815. The great bell tower is surmounted by an angel thirty feet in length, which serves as a weather cock. What lover of history will miss visiting tbe Bridge of Sigha leading from tho doge's palace to the prisons on the east, which covered gallery was so often trav- -ersed by tbe condemned nnfortunates as they were led to hear their sentence read and back again to the scene of execution between the red columns. The old barbarism is gone, the cruelty of tbe old doges is no longer practiced. It is a modern city in commerce and social life, but Venice still retains its mediaeval romance and charm- lng scenery.

A. S..