The Tampa Tribune from Tampa, Florida • 58

6 FLAVOR WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 23, 2006 THE TAMPA TRIBUNE TBO.COm CUBAN COOKBOOK LV-' Unfurl The Red Carpet! Here Come Riverses To Regale Us With Emmy Drivel KU Awards Fashion Wrap With Joan and Melissa," at 8. The fashionistas will dish on what television's biggest stars were wearing on Emmy night. Another special at 10 p.m. Monday, "Joan and Melissa: Celebrating 1000 Interviews," recounts 10 memorable red carpet moments. Finally, "Emmy Nighdife" at 8 p.m.

Tuesday takes viewers behind the velvet ropes of Hollywood parties on Emmy night, including the TV Guide magazine party at Social Hollywood, where musical artist Pink is scheduled to perform. NBC will have its own pre-Emmy red carpet show at 7 p.m. with Billy Bush and Nancy O'Dell. Joan, the poster senior for cosmetic surgery, also is working on a talk show for Bravo, tentatively tided "Can We Dish?" Reportedly, Rivers and three gay male co-hosts will chat it up in something that probably will be more hip than "The View." POLITICAL REALITY SHOW: Debuting at 9 tonight on the Sundance Channel is a nifty new reality series, "The Hill," which follows the staff of U.S. Rep.

Robert Wexler, D-Delray Beach. The six-episode series follows the fun-loving, hard-working, intelligent, idealistic and totally dedicated young people who have chosen politics as a career. Fans of "The West Wing" might enjoy this series, which is more entertaining than one might think. The staff members toil away with great faith in our system of government. Wexler, 44, recentiy achieved much notoriety among younger viewers after an appearance on Comedy Central's "The Colbert Report," where he joked about using caribou meat as fuel and enjoying cocaine.

A clip from that episode has been a big hit on YouTube.com. Sometime Sunday night, before the 58th annual Emmy presentations, Joan Rivers and her daughter, Melissa, will mark their red carpet interview. Let's hope the interviewee doesn't get marked. Rivers, or someone close to her, obviously has been keeping count. She says her first celebrity ambush since teaming with her daughter was John Travolta in 1995 at the Academy Awards.

He was nominated for his role in "Pulp Fiction." What did he say to Rivers? What was he wearing? Who knows? Who cares? The Rivers interviews are never about content. They just babble along and give us a chance to see how the stars look. Joan, 73, and Melissa, 38, have chased stars down the red carpets at the Grammys, the Oscars and the Golden Globes. Much of what Joan asks is unintentionally funny or hilariously embarrassing, such as when she introduced Jessica Walters as Barbara Walters at the Golden Globes. And pity the poor star she doesn't recognize.

The interview count will begin at No. 982 when "Joan and Melissa Live at the Emmy Awards" begins at 6 p.m. on the TV Guide Channel. This dynamic duo used to walk the red carpets for but they switched to TV" Guide (apparendy for more money). The TV Guide Channel splits its screen between a rolling log of TV listings (the bottom) and programming (the top).

It's a little distracting, but you can get used to it. The network has planned more than eight hours of Emmy coverage. That's just about everything except the awards presentation, which is on NBC beginning at 8 p.m. Conan WAIT BELCHER Television Critic wbelchertampatrib.com O'Brien is host. TV Guide Channel's Emmy mania begins at 3 p.m.

Sunday with "Countdown to the Emmy Awards," with hosts Kimberly Caldwell and Rosanna Tavarez. Joan and Melissa step in at 6 and turn off their mikes at 8. Funnyman Greg Proops joins the coverage team this year. On Monday night, the TV Guide Channel will repeat Joan and Melissa's red carpet antics at 6 p.m. followed by a new special, "Emmy V.w Associated Press file photo (2005) Joan Rivers and her daughter, Melissa, dish on the stars at events such as the Emmys for the TV Guide Channel.

WEDNESDAY EVENING AUGUST 23 Continued From Page 1 "It's funny," the Miami resident says. "The older people are crazy about the recipes in the book, and the younger people are crazy about the stories. The older people lived through it, and younger people are hungry to know how it was. "Oh, it was wonderful," Carballo says. "It was paradise." QWhy is food so important to the Cuban culture? A There is a joie de vivre that Cubans have always had.

There are still musicians in Cuba, but so many things are not available. It's difficult to make anything other than rudimentary dishes. If you were working in a hotel kitchen and the recipe calls for 3 cups of oil and you have a family to feed, maybe you have only 2 cups of oil and you take 1 home. QTwo generations only have been able to experience the island secondhand. Did you feel an obligation to tell the younger generations what it was like back in the heydays? A I did.

My nephews and nieces are in their late 30s, early 40s. Every time I start a story about the family or how it was, I get rapt attention. They really are hungry to know what it was like. I'm afraid for them at times that I revealed a little too much. Laughs There seems to be a tug of war between the older generation that wants to preserve the recipes of the past and the younger cooks who want to build on those and create something new.

A There are very traditional restaurants here that I don't even have to look at a menu; I know what they have. Others have refined that menu. Some might say, "This isn't Cuban food." Yes, it is; it's just not the nostalgia food anymore. There are a lot of people who borrow from the tropical pantry. The most influential culture is the Cuban culture.

Truth be told, it's better food, too. Laughs QWhen did you develop an interest in food? A I used to love to go in the kitchen as a little girl. I learned to cook when I was going to get married. I did OK. I was no Ferran Adria, but I did OK.

Later, I was a flight attendant in New York, and by being at the epicenter of gastronomy, you learn by osmosis. You retain all that. I wanted to go to a real cooking school, so I went to Cordon Bleu. When I came back, I started teaching, moved to California to start writing for a local Spanish-language newspaper in San Francisco. Then, certain food companies started calling me to develop recipes for the Spanish market.

QWith so many books on the market, was there anything you avoided while writing this one? A There are lots of Cuban cookbooks, and some of them are excellent, like Maria Josefa O'Higgins' "A Taste of Old Cuba" Morrow, $27.50. I didn't want to put another black bean recipe or white rice recipe out there. Those are already available. I tried to go on a more personal level and not a more conventional level. QWhat has isolation done to Cuban cooking? A Isolation has done two things.

Here at the popular Cuban restaurants, it's nostalgia cooking the same way it was in the 1950s. In Cuba, it hasn't progressed beyond that, either. The chefs can't travel, and regular people have to cook whatever they can find. Finding an onion is quite a feat. I think things are really bad right now.

As far as how things are going to change, I don't know. Now two generations don't know anything but a very restricted regime. Fidel has instilled a fear, and who knows how it will play out. What was Miami like the night Castro handed over power to his brother? A The first night, they thought he Castro had died. People were driving up and down Calle Ocho screaming and yelling.

One of the beliefs is that Fidel is doing this as a rehearsal to see how people will react. I saw a sign that read, "Fidel, if you're rehearsing, so are we." That's an amazing amount of spirit. A That sparkle seems to come in our DNA. I don't wish anyone -r 'I Viviana Carballo's new food memoir is peppered with the history of pre-Castro days in Cuba as well as with recipes, such as Coconut Flan, below. FLAN DE COCO (Coconut Flan) For the caramel: Vi cup sugar cup water For the flan: 2 large eggs 4 large egg yolks 1 16-ounce can shredded coconut in heavy syrup 1 tablespoon dark, aromatic rum To make the caramel, dissolve lh cup sugar in cup water in a small, heavy saucepan.

Place over high heat, and cook without stirring until the sugar begins to turn brown, or caramelize. When it is golden brown, carefully pour it into a 1-quart rectangular (10-by-4-by-3-inch) pate mold or 4-cup'capacity round mold. Use oven mitts to hold the mold, and turn it to coat the bottom and sides with the caramel. Set aside. To make the flan, preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Slightly beat the whole eggs and yolks together and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. This will ensure a smooth flan. Pour in the shredded coconut with its syrup, add the rum, and stir to mix well. Pour the flan mixture into the prepared mold, and place the mold in a hot-water bath a larger pan filled with enough hot but not boiling water to come three-quarters up the mold. Place in the middle rack of the oven and bake for 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Place on a rack to cool slightly and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours before serving. To unmold, run a sharp knife along the edges of the flan, dip in a pan of hot water for a few seconds, place a serving platter over the mold and invert. Place the empty mold in hot water again to soften the rest of the caramel and pour over the flan. Known as filloas in Galicia and frixuelos in Asturias, both in Spain, these large crepes can be eaten rolled with sprinkled sugar, any kind of jam, whipped cream or pastry cream. Using broth in the batter makes the crepes lighter and deepens their flavor.

FILLOAS 2 large eggs, slightly beaten cup chicken broth 'A cup whole milk 1 teaspoon sugar Pinch of salt 2 cups sifted flour, more or less About 4 tablespoons melted sweet butter In a large bowl, beat together the eggs, broth, milk, sugar and salt. When well-mixed, start adding the flour little by little until it becomes a smooth, loose batter. Cover and allow to rest for 1 hour. The filloas are best made in an 8-or 9-inch nonstick skillet. Brush a little melted butter on the pan.

Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour a small amount of batter into the center of the pan, just enough to coat the pan when swirled. As soon as the filloa is set, turn and cook briefly on the other side. Be sure not to brown. Keep warm until the whole batch is made. Roll with your favorite filling.

Eat warm. Muerto Rise the Dead. First you make a basic broth with a lot of meat (later you can use it to make Vaca Frita or Ropa Vieja). Strain the broth, add a whole chicken and some vegetables, and cook it until the meat falls off the bones. Shred the chicken meat.

Just before serving, give it a good squeeze of lemon for vigor and a good dusting of chopped parsley for beauty. Reporter Jeff Houck can be reached at (813) 259-7324 or trib.conu Gubernatorial Debate: American Masters: Arthur Miller, Bia Kazan and Gubernatorial Debate: Charlie Rose (N) American Masters: 3WEDU Florida, candidates vie the Blacklist: None Without Sin. In Florida, candidates vie Arthur Miller, Bia Kazan pbs for the Democratic Party lor the Democratic Party and the Blacklist: None I nomination. 6946 9033 nomination. 36471 59908 Without Sin.

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Because Cuba has been forbidden since the '50s, everyone is curious. Everyone has a Cuba story. Their cousin or brother went down and saw the Tropicana. It's a universal thing, Havana. Qlf you had the chance to make food for Fidel in the hospital, what would it be? A As far as a dish for Fidel or any other person ailing, I would make a soup my mom used to call Levanta.