The Cincinnati Enquirer from Cincinnati, Ohio • Page 20

to 20 THE ENQUIRER. CINCINNATI. SUNDAY. FEBRUARY 3, 1895- -FOUR PAGES SLEEVES Have Reached the Limit, And the Reaction Will Set in Soon. The Lace Collar at the Height of Popularity.

Exquisite Creamy Creations For Evening Toilets--Hints of Spring Styles. There now seems to be trustworthy foundation for the assertion that sleeves have reached their utmost limit, and, this being so, an inevitable reaction la likely to set in. Dressmakers, however, are making their way very cautiously to such reduction. for it would be quite too grotesque, after the present extravagant volume of sleeves, if a sudden rebound put. before 119 models 0.6 barrow and uncomfortably tight um they Were formerly shaped.

Still, those who recall the time when the enormous tournure went out may also remember a few daring spirita who frat ventured to walk abroad in clinging garments- -these by force of contrast looking like animated broomsticks, the majority still clinging to their preposterously distended It will be a ter of universal regret. if fashion really elects to go to the other extreme with dress sleeves. Shot and flowered satin ribbons are largely used for rosettes, frills, streamers, sashes and bretelles on pretty KOWDS for demi-dress wear. New bodices continue to reach the waist only, and most elaborate belt adornings are the natural outcome of these shortened corsages. Lace collars are TO longer regarded as luxuries--they are considered economical inVestments.

One lace collar, if Ingeniously treated, Les capable of varying the effect of halt a dozen different waists. Every woman knows that if the bodice of her gown appears like new her entire costume 16 stamped as such. Therefore, great ds the value of a lace collar. It must be a large collar of some heavy lace like Russian thread, and should fail well over the corsage and form epaulettes over the sleeves. When it is purchased it should be worn untrimmed over a dark waist and- will give a stylish effect -to the whole costume.

On its next appearance it may be joined to a gay little stock of chiffon or velvet; again It uppears lined with any of the new shades of silk. This will give a charming touch of color to a black bodice. It may also be made effective by turning it with ribbons. as shown in the Illustration, having the loops stand up high on the shoulders and the longest ends reaching below the waist line. These ribbons should appear to be to the collar by small bunches of flowers.

Imagine a cream white lace collar trimmed with heliotrope ribbons in this manner, and fastened with dainty clusters of nots. This collar crowned with a forgetme-not blue chiffon stock would be an addition to any costume. After a lace collar has been treated in these various ways as a last resort it may have the design outlined in Jets, gold threads on tiny colored beads. Then again it will appear like new and fulfill 118 economical mission. Eaton jackets win remain in popular favor, but often with a difference in their adJustment.

Some of the newest models are not loose-fronted at all, but hooked part of the way down on each side of a vest of satin moire, fancy taffeta, or other contrasting material. Every known neck and corsage adornment is termed a collar, whether it Is made of lace, Jet, chiffon or flowers, or a combi-nation of them all. The latest creation entirely covers the corsage and is most useful In brightening up a worn bodice. It is a deep yoke of fine black net showered with Jet spangles. A bright velvet stock is worn about the neck; appliqued to the black net are two Vandyke points of cream lace studded with jet.

Another novelty which is seen in a variety of colors is a stock of chiffon caught at each side with small clusters of flowers. From beneath each bunch of flowers falls a jabot of cream lace. This new collar is effective made of baby-blue chiffon with knots of violets at each side and the full jabots of duchesse lace. Cloth turbans, edged with fur and trimmed with a bunch of violets, are worn with tallor-made costumes. These toques are becoming to tall girls with fluffy hair.

Very few women with straight tresses can wear such a chapeau. Word comes from Paris of the extraordinary popularity of black gowns. The latest combination with black is gold. This is newer than the light greens and reds of the last season, and Is going to take the place of the cold, unbecoming but until. now, YOUNG GIRL'S TOILET.

much-worn bluet. Chiffon has received Its conge, too, along with Its equally popular. companion of- the winter, the corndower blue. The latest dancing gowns have lace instead of chiffon, and the Eastern toilets are to show this garniture very extensively used. New spring woolens will have rough or a wrinkled weave, entirely displacing even for tailor made wear, the smooth surface cloths.

The high favor in which crepon is, and is still to be held, is responsible for this. Crepon in every shade, design and quality is to be used, and it will be possible to have an entire outfit of this fabric with a satisfying variety in color and purpose. Silk-lined kid gloves are one of the latest Imported novelties. The skill of the dressmaker seems likely to be taxed to the utmost in the varied phases of -the modern skirt. The latest decree in Paris is that the skirts of morning dresses shall be short enough to clear the ground, and made with no fullness at the waist, either at the back or sides.

They must be fitted very carefully around the hips and stand out in folds at the feet in front as well as at the ack. Another variety of skirt originating in Paris has three box plaits in the back, which meet, and three In front which are separated. Three bands of gulpure embroldery ending In rosettes of velvet trim this skirt. The gown is of gray figured taffeta, and the bodice, quite plain in the back, has a jacket effect, with epaulettes, and collar of the embroidery. Large vells are still worn to cover the face.

but do not drape under the chin as formerly. In many cases the chenille dots are very large, and again the vell will have the mesh and no dots whatever. Cloth dresses are still much worn, and will be until warm weather makes them an and a very stunning gown of binoult-colored cloth, trimmed with trakhan, outlining the folds down the skirt and on the bodies, which has a chemisette of white silk muslin, and a yoke and collar of mauve velvet. Cloth in one of the new violet shades makes a pretty gown, with a bodice of green and violet shot silk. made plain in the back and two wide plaits in front Violet velvet finishes the neck forms the belt, and trims the sleeves, which can be either of cloth or silk.

Pawn cloth made up with a blue velvet bodice, trimmed at the neck and belt with gold and blue seguina, is another pretty combination. novel bodice for pale tan crepon gown la made with a blouse front of turquois blue velvet down the center, and neckband and belt of black satin. The collar is covered with lace, and has lace and black satin bows at the back and the remaining portion of the waist consists of zouave of blue satin and covered with ani applique of white cloth and gold: Black satin ribbon is arranged around the arm holes and ties in a bow on the sheulder. Another and more simple waist, pretty for an afternoon at home or full dress morning occasion, is made of silver gray "Alme" brocade. The collar is of crepe, with.

a frill of the same, and the front of crepe is closely tucked to form a yoke and neck band. The full sleeves have an elbow frill and the fullness of the waist is drawn down under a ribbon belt, finished off with two rosettes. Beautiful, -looking zephyr ginghams are displayed at 19 cents a yard. The simplest way to make them up is the prettiest, with ribbon belts and bows in a color to match, or black velvet, A very charming model for a black or any dark shade of satin or crepon gown has an extremely full plain skirt. If brown crepon is used a pretty yellow ecru shade of satin and cream luce are the prettiest STREET COSTUME.

combination. The back of the bodice is without fullness, but the crepons-slashed almost to the waist in five-inch wide bands, which are edged with very narrow bead trimming, and underneath these is a smooth back of the ecru satin, showing in inchwide stripes between the bands. This gives a very slender look to the figure. The front of the bodice has a jacket effect, with narrow revers covered with a fancy trimming of colored and embroidery, and full vest of the satin. Wide cream lace falls over the sleeves, which are quite plain, and points of the lace peep out from underneath the revers at each side.

An odd, fanciful walst for a black crepon skirt is made of red velvet, with plaid sleeves. The velvet is plaited in two box plaits in front and back, and the sleeves are covered at the tops with tabs of velvet falling cape fashion from a yoke covered with jet. Another pretty bodice worn by a bridesmaid, with a yellow satin skirt and sleeves, is of white mousseline de sole over white, and trimmed with white satin embroidered with silver. The satin is cut to form a round yoke band in the back, which fits down two or three inches below the collar, showing the muslin between, and the same sort of a yoke in front, except that it shapes in toward the armhole a little, and has three bands going into the belt with a pouch effeet. This trimming is very effective ent out of velyet and studded with jet, and may match the color of the skirt or not.

A simple afternoon dress of gray crepon, spotted with yellow, has a full bodice of gray open-work embroidered chiffon over yellow satin. The collar and sash are of yellow satin, or if something less showy is preferred these may be of gray velvet. There is simply no limit to the variety in walsts, and here is another worn with a petunia cloth skirt for a bride's going-away dress, and made of the cloth, with a plain back and a jacket front, with a blouse and yoke of petunia velvet. Russian embroidery bands the yoke and forms the belt, and the wide collar of cloth, edged with sable, ends in narrow revers on the sides of the jacket. An elegant dinner gown of black satin has a jacket bodice of pale amber brocade.

The pointed revers are edged with gold-spangled trimming. and the full vest has a ruche at the throat and a bow of yellow ribbon at the buck. The basque is slightly full at the back and sides, where It is finished by bows of ribbon. Very handsome and artistic buttons are sold both for coats, vests, fancy waists and for fastening the sides or front breadths of gored skirts, redingotes and cycle costumes. Many of the new jaunty street jackets and jacket bodices on' tailor gowns that are to take the place of the three-quarter coats are finished with vests that button visibly from neck to lower' edge.

The best dressmakers are now using stiff with great moderation. There is a general tendency to discard its use altogether as a lining, employing the crinoline, haircloth, moreen, or other fabric for An entirely separate underskirt. Some new silk skirts are made to carry out this Idea, being faced with haircloth at the hem, and trimmed very full around the bottom with piped or corded silk frills about three Inches wide. Inexpensive skirts are also made of moreen or Kaircloth alone, some fashioned with a closely fitted yoke, with kilts or box plaits joined to this yoke that flare very much from the knee down, giving a like spreading effect to the dress skirt worn above it. A few of these skirts are silk covered.

An importer in this city said recently that these skirts were merely forerunners of crinoline proper. A fine French chamois glove for spring and summer wear has already been put upon the market, that laces at the wrist, is warranted to wash well, and to be superior to any chamois glove ever yet offered for sale. Creamy exquisite patterns in Vandyke, Malines, Bourdon and Madeira laces are laid over daintily tinted chiffons on elegant evening waists made to wear with skirts of satin, moire, or brocade. The rose-colored, golden-green, or other colored chiffon forms a lovely background for displaying the Intricacy and beauty of the lace. The full Queen Anne sleeves are made of the chiffon, and are more than half covered with a fall of the lace.

A much narrower ruffle finishes the sleeve below the elbow. Scotch plaid satin blouses are made in the same style, with very yellow guipure lace for trimming. Other plaided or striped satin or taffeta waists have a tiny sleeveless Eton jacket added, made of peach colored, reseda green, violet, fuchsia red or black velvet. There are bead-trimmed caps on the shoulders of the jacket, and beneath these flare the very full sleeves of the blouse waist. The newest hatpin has a ball of small.

finely ent rhinestones. These pins are very effective on black hats. Rhinestone ornaments are used extensively on fancy waists. Handsome evening bodices are of velvet, studded with tiny stones. Lapped skirt gores buttoned at the top, with real or simulated button holes on the silk-lined flaps, are a feature of some of the new spring gowns.

One very smart model has pretty wide braid work around the skirt hem; accompanying the gowns a chic little triple cape of cloth, braided to match. This is about 20 Inches long from the top of the standing braided collar to the edge of the lowest cape, and is lined with silk. The tronts are finished with long loops and ands of satin ribbon three inches wide The short jacket bodice one of the new favorItes-has a bias seamless back with braided revers, and the medium large mutton-leg leeves are lapped closely and buttoned from wrist to elbow. Caprice and fancy seem to have run riot atsong some of the new spring suitings in all-wool and silk-and-wool weaves. These are fine Imitations of rough-surface goods, not unlike the old-style bison cloth.

While the fabric looks extremely coarse, the texture of which is made uncommonly soft and fine. The threads are purposely spun with bafs, silky tufts and vari-colored lines to give variety to the surface. Into many of these threads are twisted long, fleecy hairs, which are brushed out after the weaving is completed, making lines of downy color varying from half an inch to two inches in width. A very stylish contume recently admired was of finely twilled black serge, the far1 godet skirt which had the seams trimmed with stitched straps of black satin having a tiny dot, The round waist of the serge had a full drooping plastron of blackjetted net, with braces to correspond. The large leg-of-mutton sleeves were untrimmed.

The crush belt, of black satin, fastened at the back under a square bow of the same, and the crush collar, of Reine velvet, fastened under a square bow at the neck. One of the leading features of the season's fashions is the black crepon skirt, which appears on all occasions, at all hours. and has completely usurped the place of the black moire so popular last year. It is an elaborate example of crinkling in pattern and a work of art in the way it is cut and hung; but it is usually devoid of all trimming, and always the smart thing to wear for a morning call or a swell reception, being equally suitable for maid and matron. She has only to live up to fashion's privileges in the way of variations in the bodice.

which has become such a continual expert ment in unique and striking combinations, and an apparently extensive wardrobe is accomplished with one skirt. This fashior for waists different from the skirt promises an indefinite extension, and will blossom out In fresh varieties with the spring flowers. It is too full of possibilities to be quickly discarded. One advantage which crepon has over silk is that it wears wonderfully well, ani, besides this, it is equally suitable for morning. afternoon and evening wear, where full dress is not required, and quite as good style with a simple plain walst as with the most resplendent confection of satin, chiffon and spangles.

Festoons of pearl beads are seen on pink chiffon ball gowns, and velvet rosettes set with rhinestone buckles are the latest for chiffon crush collars. The new silk crepons for spring are in greater varlety than ever. There are chine effects in flowers of natural colors and oriental patterns, which are very soft, in prettily blended tints. Tiny flowered stripes are seen in light grounds, and crepons, with the wide uneven marking, are spotted in contrasting colors with great effect. Another charming variety seems to have an upper surface quite distinct and very thin and yet It is all woven together.

Crepons bid fair to take the place of foulards, so long and servIceably worn, and one which will be especially useful as a substitute is navy blue with small white dots. French glace silks, very soft and glossy, are among the new spring goods, and these come in brilliant plaids beautiful to look upon, and pompadour effects. The man behind the counter will tell you that entire skirts are to be made of these gorgeous plaids, and worn with plain silk bodices and blouse waists. However, It Is difficult to Imagine that any woman's fancy could lead her Into wearing one of the wide full skirts made of such mixture of bright colors; but there is the seashore, where anything, no matter how bizarre, is permissible. The new silk and mohair crepons are very beautiful, especially In black, brown and reseda green.

Moire silks in elaborate pompadour designs are to be worn for very dressy functions, and a new variety of taffeta silk is woven in buffs between stripes of satin, resembling the cotton goods which have been worn so long, and is used for waists. The puffs vary in width and the silk comes in all the pretty fashionable shades. It trims itself, which is a commendable recommendation, and the only necessary addition is some satin ribbon for the collar band, belt and finish at the wrist. Spangled ribbon is especially pretty for this, and also for bands over the shoulders to make the waist more dressy. Very I ght silk and velvet waists are sometimes trimmed with wide black lace insertion, very open in pattern, with irregular edges and with black lace points arranged from the collar and belt in such a way that the bodice is nearly covered, The Insertion is put on in braces, one band over each shoulder and crossing bands between to form a yoke.

Something newer than the chiffon waist is made of "Lierre" lace in a delicate tint of cream. It is used over silk, satin or velvet, and is charmingly soft and pretty. The color underneath shows through very plainly, and it does not require as much trimming as chiffon to make it effective. A waistband, collar and one or two bows of velvet or satin to match the lining is quite enough. The lace is fulled a little at the belt in the back and draped a trifle in front where the colored bows are deftly arranged.

Chiffon is sometimes used between the lace and silk to give the bodice a soft effect, and add to the expense as well. The continued vogue of plaited bodices must surely be attributed to the skill with which our modistes imagine new devices and trimmings for them. Some place between the plaits a strip of white, black or colored ribbon, covered with jet beaded passementerie, finished with fringe. On acount of the remarkably low price of high-grade silks, both plain and in every Imaginable fancy device and combination, a silk season is upon us-silks for entire costumes, for separate skirts and hosts of prate waists, for capes in innumerable styles, for dressy jackets, redingotes with elaborate shoulder effects, for elderly women; silks for petticoats and teagowns; summer lingerie for linings; silk foundation materials in pale tints for accordion-plaited skirts and wa sts of diaphanous textiles, and wash sliks for tennis, traveling sults, It is reported by city merchants and Importers that they have already sold nearly double the amount of silk and satin to manufacturers of ladles ready-made garments than they formerly purchased of them in an entire season. If not composing the dress or wrap entire, it is prominently introduced as combination or garniture.

The fancy laces vie in delicacy and beauty with the hand-made patterns, and new Calais laces show dainty straggling finethreaded designs, like those in medieval devices. Imitation Alencon in finest meshes is scarcely less beautiful than the real; there is certainly not difference enough in effect to pay the difference in price for so ephemeral a trimming. Black silk Irish guipure will be used with a lavish hand. Rococo arabesque patterns in cream, Ivory and 'butter-colored laces will be extensively employed as a garniture for spring and summer silks, and sheer light woolens, Vandyke laces by the yard and choice Vandyke cape collars will form elegant shoulder trimmings for stylish spring wraps. One of the oddest uses to which accordion-plaited chiffon is put is as cape or hood on an opera cloak.

It seems incongruous that heavy, warm cloaks of rich materlals should be trimmed with this flimsy tabric, but as fashion has set her stamp of approval on the combination, it will probably be adopted by her votaries. It la too early for spring millinery and too late to invest in winter hats, but one or two specimens are interesting as a possible hint of things to come. The round, dented crown, with a band of velvet in front and clusters of ostrich feathers at the sides, is a Parisian fancy called the Henri Ill. hat. It is glace felt, while the other shape la of petunia velvet, with ostrich tips curling down on elther side.

charming little bonnet for evening or day wear is simply round, visor-shaped piece, possibly four or five inches deep In the widest place, covered with black velvet and trimmed on the edge with four rows of small rhinestones set little distance apart. This fits close to the head and well back, where there are tiny black ostrich tips standing out at either side with a wing effect and bows of black velvet for a finish. This tad for wings has extended to the ball gowns and occasionally one has delicately tinted wing feathers sproutins from the shoulders in a suggestive fashton. BAKING POWDER. Highest of all in Leavening Latest U.S.

Gov't Report Royal Baking ABSOLUTELY PURE UNDERWEAR Of the Tender Sex. The Old Styles Are Going Out of Use. The Swell New York Seventh on Guard Duty, When Several Women Enjoy a 66 Philadelphia Treat." The Poor Waiter Takes To the Woods in Di gust. SPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE OF THE ENQUIRER. NEW YORK, February 1, 1895.

It is not generally known that the average woman cannot sit through a long dinner or a whole play ether without sipping her garters down from above her knees to below them. Now that garter buckles are so much worn it is well for a young man contemplatIrg the purchase of garter buckles for his girl to notice her at the theater. Of course, some giris still wear the side elastics, and these do not have to be slipped. It is a dellcate thing, as a rule, to find out whether a pair of buckle garters are going to be acceptable or not, and this is the only way to do it. Take her to the theater.

About the second act you will see her reach down. May be she has really dropped her handkerchief. Anyway, she always says, "Where is that handkerchief?" and when you go to hunt she says "Never mind, I have You see it takes only a swift half minute to adjust the garter. The only way for you to be sure is to listen sharply. If she wears the knee garter and is fixing it, ten to one you will hear a little smothered "snap," the sound elastic makes when it springs.

Also, she will sigh a little bit, a nice little relleved sigh. If that happens you can go ahead and get the buckles. They will be sure to be "Just exactly what I want, you dear thing: how did you know?" but don't you tell her. After starting my letter in a way that is truly helpful to young men I'm going in for advice for young women. If you intend to keep to the good old ways, then take advantage of the present condition of the market, and buy pretty white underwear, but if you want to be ready for new things, wait.

Underwear is being tremendously pushed now, because the old styles are goIng out. A demand is to be created for silken petticoat drawers of the bloomer pattern, and little silk blouses, these two garments to take the place of the long popular chemises and drawers. The petticoat bloomer is made only just comfortably full, and covered with rows of little frills from below the knee, where It buttons, to the hips. It 1s, of course, plain above. The blouse is In silk to match the bloomer, and is a simple blouse pattern.

Woman has always looked pretty and attractive in her chemise, and nothing has all these years been found that would take its pretty place. But this bloomer and blouse rig seem to do It, for a woman looks simply adorable in the set. For warmth tights are worn under the bloomers, and a little knit shirt under the blouse. For the street and day wear the bloomers--they are called umbrella are of black silk, but for the house and with evening gowns all sorts of delicate colors in silk are used. No petticoats are to be worn.

The blouse comes low necked to suit evening wear. This sort of thing washes more successfully than the muslin, lawn and Nainsook we have been wearing, and needs no starch, so our washerwoman is not likely to regard the change of style with favor. For my sketches I select the attire that hides these dainty garments, choosing for the first one a white satin ball gown. Its skirt is arranged in godets, the two on the sides being covered with white gulpure whose design is outlined with gold. The bodice in fitted satin, draped blouse-like with guipure, and has deep cut out bordered with pink apple blossoms.

A necklace of the same is worn around the throat and a bunch of them is placed at the waist. The full sleeve puffs have vandyke epaulettes of white gulpure. Number two depicts a theater or concert dress of white and pale bluet changeable silk striped with pale orange trimmed with heavy yellowish lace and orange and dahlia mirror velvet. Its gored skirt la garnished on the right side with lace which Is topped by a velvet bow. The bodice has an oblong decollete in front, and is cut at the bottom with point both back and front.

The lace forms: a vest and draped revers, and the velvet la used for wide collar, high In back and edged with narrow lace. Finally show dress In pinkish lavender silk garnished with gold galoon. The gored sicirt is made plain, but has a moderately long train. A square decollete leaves a generous showing of neck and shoulders, and is bordered with draped bertha of the silk. The short sleeves are so much looped that they do not stand out, and the belt is made of gold galoon with a sunburst of gold beads on the right side material gives bodies which A Purchase That Completely Baffles Competition! A Large Portion of the Entire Stock of the STANDARD UNDERWEAR COMPANY, cf Newark, N.

Comprising Worth of Ladies' Cotton Underwear To Be Offered by Us Monday Morning at From 25c to 60c On the Dollar of the Cost to Manufacture. Come To- and supply your needs at least two years to come. GREAT PURCHASE OF 11,000 Pairs Suede Gloves, In 8-Button Lengths, Black and Colored, worth $1.25, now go at the low price of Only 59c Per Pair. 26,000 Pieces Men's, Ladies' and Children's Underwear To Be Closed Out To-Morrow at Half Price. Final Mark-Down Sale of All Our Ladies' and Children's Cloaks and Capes.

Ladies' Jackets, Chinchilla, Beaver and Kersey, former price $6 and $8, now at $2.48 and $3.98 Ladies' Double Beaver and Golf Capes, worth $7.50, now $2.96 Misses' Jackets now $1.98 Children's Gretchen Cloaks, all new fresh novelties, worth $6.50 and $8.50, go 1.98 and $2.98 Children's Reefer Jackets Alaska Seal Plush Capes, worth $20.00, now Silk Plush Capes Astrakhan Fur Capes, worth $20.00, at $8.89 MANUFACTURERS' SAMPLE Blankets and Comforts, Slightly Soiled, at Less Than Half Price. Blankets and Comforts now go at 50c, 75c and worth double. Ladies' Wrappers Perfect Atting Best Dutch Blue Calico 69c Ladies' Fancy Fleece-lined said she didn't want any. "Well, two orders are plenty," said Frances; "what kind will we have?" After some fight they decided en tomato. "Two orders of tomato, and four plates." For the next order Frances and Katherine went together.

Frances ordered fish, and that she was to share with Katherine, while Katherine would share her duck with Frances. It was later decided that there would be enough quail for Polly, too. Polly went fish, another kind with Madge, Elouise not taking any, but sharing her roast beef with Madge. Thus the order was one fish with two plates, another fish with two plates, a quail with three plates, and roast beef with two plates. Then they fall took potatoes, two took salad, four took 'an entree, all of them took ice cream, one took black coffee, and they all wanted cheese.

"'Cammembert is nice, it it's ripe," said Frances, who knew everything. want cheese and no said Elouise, who was hushed up promptly, the waiter being near. "Oh, yes, cammembert la nice: it's the kind with holes in it, isn't it, and cut thin "No, but it smells; better have roemThis from Madge. "Really, I think Dutch is as nice as anything; you know, the kind that you scoop out so," advised Polly. Then Frances told the waiter to bring "just some cheese, any nice kind, and bring for-how many will do, girls? Polly, who was cross because her suggestion had not been taken, decided she didn't want any cheese, and two orders were made for the rest.

Then came the bill. Frances looked It and then said severely: "We want separate checks, The waiter's checks" hair rose, and he repeated "separate in that tone of voice waiters have. Polly seemed to have some consideration. "He can't she said. Then they all shouted "I had soup.

I didn't. Fish for me. I didn't take any-who had roast-no, mine was quail-oh, dear, you mean thing, I did not. Who was to pay for that fish, don't you member? You had some of mine, and then had some of your salad. Oh, no, waiter.

can tell you just exactly." The waiter fled and left them jabbering. Then he came back with five checks made out so you couldn't read a thing, and with different totals. Just as Frances was beginning to protest Elouise shouted that was a quarter to 2. "We shall be late and you know he comes on almost at once." At that they all paid and tore madly out. They hadn't given the waiter anything, but when he counted up he was $1 25 ahead.

CLARA BELLE. 1895. Copyright, BABY'S HANDS. Dainty, dimpled, little things, Soft as angel's plumey wings, Nought to do but grow, Awkwardly you move about, Up and down, in and out, Tell me, do you know Why What such you're antics trying you now go through? Where you want to go? Dainty, dimpled, little things, Clutching, as your cradie swings, At thin nothingness, Who can tell what you will hold, When your grasp la firm and boid! May be honor- may be goldMay be nothingness! Dainty, dimpled, little things, Whatso'er the future brings, There'll be work for you. Though you still be soft and white, You cannot your duties slight While there's work to do.

There'll be burdens to be lifted, From the bad good must be sifted, From the frise, the true: And though you're so soft and small, of this work, a part will fall, Little hands, on you. -Womankind. CANDY SAUSAGES. Berlin Cor. Philadelphia Telegraph.

The candy shops are effectually disguised, for in the show windows are to be seen only pickles, bread, ham, sausage toes. This arouses a passer-by's curiosity. and by close observation he will see that this indeed Is candy. The potato there, with its skin breaking as if it had just been forked out of the pot, is candy. The slices of sausage yonder lying on a plece of buttered bread are candy.

The large chunk of ham alongside, with slice off its end, 1s candy. The dish there with a great Ash on it, with the shiny eye, the slimy tail, and the brown gravy all around it, is candy. Everything in the window, indeed, is of the same material, little pigs, clowns, lobsters, horses, loaves of bread and bouquets, and what beautiful and artistic idea it, of all is. It adds so immensely to the delight of Christmas to think you are eating fish, and tHen suddenly discover that it is in reality, Instead, a kind of candy, not good candy, of course, but still not fish. TAKING NO CHANCES.

New York Tribune. A Philadelphia barber who has become convert to the germ theory of disease has discharged the bootblack and coatbrusher connected with his shop, and refuses even to keep a brush on hand for the Individual use of his customers who may want to shine their shoes or dust their coats. He bolds that the doctors are right, and that the germs of consumption and other diseases 90 plenty that they settle on every particle of the human wearing apparel; and he is not going to have any brushing going 02 about his place that will disturb disease germs and send them hunting tor a new place down his throat, where they can de more damage than on clothing. In the New Settlement. Atlanta Constitution.

Visitor--Is your town a religious town? Native -You bet! Visitor- Any Shakers among you? Native Mighty tew now: we've got medicine what knocks the chills aky-high: papa, what did grandfather his country? son. member of Where He Missed It. Atlanta Constitu THE GERMANIC DRY GOODS CO. The Germanic JENNINGS PRESIDENT. MILLER, Dry Goods Co.

Northwest Corner of Main and Canal. From Our Reserve and Retail Stocks. Closing Out the Odds and Ends The Short Lengths and Odds and Ends all placed on Tables in our different aisles, and extending 325 Cheap feet in length, we have marked everything at Here Is a Bargain Column of Wonderful Values! Ladies' 4-Button Real Kid Gloves; sizes to 8. Ladies' Skirts, Flannelette an 1 Quilted; full size. Boys' Good, Strong Cloth Pants; all sizes.

Men's and Boys' Unlaundered Shirts, Linen Bosoms and Bands. Men's Boys' Outing, Cheviot and Percale Shirts. Ladies', Men's and Boys' Camel's- and Jersey Ribbed Shirts and Drawers. Ready- Sheets and 3 Pillow Cases, Bleached. Table Cloths, 2 yards long, and half dozen Fringed Napkins.

5-yard lengths Dress Ginghams and 6-yard lengths Dutch Blue Calicoes, 5-yard lengths Best Apron Ginghams and 5-yard lengths Outing Fiannels. Half dozen Large Huck Towels and 6 yards Canton and Domet. Flannel. Fine 6-yard Linen lengths Roller Tea Toweling, in half Plain dozen and Ladies' Checks. Linen Handkerchiefs, Quarter dozen Children's Black Ribbed Hose and quarter dozen Ladies' Black Hose.

Half dozen Men's Socks and quarter dozen Men's and Boys' Linen Collars. 3 Men's Silk Teck Scarfs and 2 pair Men's Suspenders. 2 Best Window Shades, with Best Spring Rollers; all colora, Girls' Silk Plush Tam O'Shanter Caps; all colors. 5 to 10 yard lengths Laces and Embroideries. 10-yard lengths India Linen and Plaid Nainsook.

8-yard lengths Wide Silk Ribbons 3-yard lengths 42 inches wide White Apronettes. Boys' and Girls' Fine Cloth Caps, Plain and Fancy. Ladies' and Children's Best Goodyear Rubbers. One dozen Clark's Spool Cotton, half dozen 500-spool Basting Cotton. 6-yard lengths Skirt Linings and half a gross of Whalebones.

Half gross Dress Stays and quarter dozen 100-yard Spool Silk. Thousands of Remnants of Black and Colored Wool Dress Goods. SWAM THE RIVER In Order Not To Be Late at a Wedding. Chattanooga Times. We have all heard the story of the brave fisherman who swam a raging river to see his sweetheart, WAS discovered by her father, who, mistaking him for a porpoise, harpooned and sunk him, and how the fair maid, seeing her lover sink beneath the waves, herself jumped in and perished; and how in after years the pair matched on earth by that all powerful something called ove continued their happiness in A mermaid's furnishing store under the waves.

That story is sweet and probably true, but truth is more in fiction than fact. A scarcely less romantic affair, however, actually occurred In Virginia a few days ago, when Miss Ida Hamlet, of Charlotte, a sister of Mra. N. C. Ford, of this city, was married to Clem Chambers, of Lynchburg.

Twenty years ago, when the bride was only 12 years of age, she gave her hand to Mr. Chambers on condition that he wait until the day when the wedding really curred. He waited, but on the day of the marriage found that the river on the line dividing Charlotte and Campbell Counties had been swollen to a raging torrent by the recent rains in that section. He, his best man, John P. Ford, who is a nephew of N.

C. Ford, of Walnut street, this city, and Rev. D. S. Hubble, who performed the ceremony, were on one side of the river, while the bride and her attendants waited on the other side.

There were no boats, and no way of crossing the river was found. The wedding was to take place at 10 o'clock sharp, and when the hands on his clock showed that that hour had passed Mr. Chambers became uneasy, as he hardly liked to lose the treasure for which he had waited many years. Finally, after several hours of search for something to serve as a boat on the 1m- portant occasion, the groom, preacher and best man decided to let history repeat itself, or repeat history themselves, by "cooning" It across the turbulent food. WAS as much as Mr.

Ford's life wasworth to attempt the dimcult feat, as he Is a portly man, and an ordinary log would have a hard time keeping him up. But finally the little party started. The preacher, it is supposed, felt the fall from dignity keenly, while the fat best man had harder and more material problems to keep him busy. As his mass of desh rolled from side to side the log rolled, and every time he shifted his superfluous flesh to the other side to balance his log the best man gasped with fear, And the water was cold, too, but the groom's warmth, sentimentally speaking, kept the party from freezing, although when they reached the other side of the river late in the afternoon they were considerably the worse for wear and tear. The maids on t'other side greeted the party warmly, and after an exchange of clothing the wedding took place at 4 o'clock, six hours after schedule time.

THe repeating history referred to was the wedding of Parson Roach in the same community about 25 years ago, when the parson and haif the wedding guests were forced to "coon" it the swelling Falling River, But were married and lived happily ever after." WHAT MAX O'RELL SAID. The Buffalo Courier thus reports a recent talk of Max O'Rell, apropos of Buffalo and Rochester: "I vill tell you how I fairst hairt off Rochester, hein, helm! I vas beeled to appear-r-r in Buffa-lo. Zee man who hat engazhay me evidently t'ought I vooid appear-F-r in peenk tights ant valk on my haft. 1 saw arount zee town signs vich ret: Max O'Rell ant Krow -hein, hein! vas preety mat. and knew zat zare voold be a small house.

Eh, hein, zare vas onlee about tree honert. Zee nex' day as I vas getting OD zee train at Buffa-lo, I met Major. off Philadelphia, zee great zhournaleest. sayt, O'Rell, vot kint off a house deet you tree sayt shortlee, for I vas steel mat. sayt Handy, 'tree honert people gO to a leeterary lectyoor in Buffa-lo? Vy, two honert off dem most have come from Roches-ter' -hein, hein!" THE TABLE3 TURNED.

Detroit Free Press. "May I have the pleasure of the next walts with you?" he said to the tall and stately blonde at the masquerade. I will be delighted." So they waltzed and promenaded the whole evening. He gazed into her deep blue eyes and began to pine for the time when the mask would be removed, so that he might gaze upon her lovely face. At last the clock struck 12, the masks were taken off, and he saw the avenging lace and form of his angry wife, whom he had left safely at home.

you satisfied? he said coolly. have made love to you the whole evening 50 that no other fellow has dared to come near you. If I had not discovered your scheme, would not have been here And she belleved him. The Difference. Detroit Tribune.

"That man over there says the world doean't understand him." man with. the fringe on his trousers? "Yes." "He's and off. See that other man with the hat the patent leather shoes? "Well, he'd the one the world doesn't understand." The wittered, fountain for it was splashed in the and the sparrows time. glad summer The Pad. polls Journal, Collector- See here, when are you going do for do anything on this account? Mudge-1 don't know.

I have been hypHe was a so of that 1 can't co through I'm A Transaction in Silks seams in the back and no darts in front, enly side seams and gores. Chiffon is the favored stuff for trimming evening dresses. Plain gauze and grenadine are especially affected in black, but usually made up over black and trimmed with color. Pink, cerise, peruche greer and vivid turquoise are the principal colorings used on black, and all pale colors are trimmed with dark tints. Very pale greer is exquisite with amethyst colored trimmings and clusters of violets or purple iris, and for blonde this in chiffon and satin forms an Ideal ball gown.

A very striking evening dress in black was of tulle. sewn with jet and black sequins, over black satin embroidered in steel spangles, the effect of the bright steel shimmering through the tulle being original and pretty. Both skirt and bodice were carried out in the same manner, the latter having the tight fitting satin corsage embellished with spreading pointed designs of steel, completely velled with the black tulle. The huge sleeves were of meteor red velvet, a touch of the same color appearing at the waist. 0 Wonderful storles are heard of the hardships borne by the young swells of Troop A and of the Seventh Regiment in the strike campaign at Brooklyn.

A delightful miss has just been filling me full of the heroism of her "Harry, who, poor, dear boy, stood out all one long day in the rain without his I have no heart to shorten the pedestal of such a hero, but rain brings Its trials to civilians. Jones, now, he had trouble, although he didn't go to war and though he kept out of Brooklyn. He catne out of his down-town office late, and found a wretched cotton affair left Instead of his beautiful umbrella, but It was raining so hard he had to take it. It was the most awful looking gamp you ever saw. Literally green with age, and as for shape! Well, it looked bad enough shut up, but open! It was more like decrepit head of cabbage than anything else.

Jones was dressed up. as Jones always is, and it was hard on him to have to carry a thing like that. He hailed a hansom at once. The weather cleared up before he got to his tailor, so Jones got out and left the umbrella Inside. While he was being measured an attendant brought in the umbrella.

"The driver said you left it, sir," remarked he. Jones was too ashamed to say anything, but just nodded. He tried to leave the thing when he came to go, but the fitter remarked obsequiously: "'Your umbrella, sir," and Jones took it and marched out. It was not easy to carry that umbrella in an airy and unconscious way. It was such a palpable misfit with the rest of him that everybody seemed to stare at It and him.

Finally he stopped to look at Tiffany's window and managed to leave the thing leaning up against the rail. The next block he met Pussy Van Utter. And wasn't he jolly glad he had got rid of that umbrella! Just as he was saying nice things to her a bootblack touched him on the shoulder. "Here's yer Boss." he sald cheerily. "I saw yer leave it.

I've done save it from a cove wot was lighting on it, sir. I-" But Jones grabbed the thing and gave the required nickel. Miss Van Utter looked queer and hurried -just as she was going to ask him to call, too -he was sure of it. At the club he gave Henry a dollar to throw the thing away, but the hall boy returned it as he went out. "Henry tried to give it to me, sir, but I saw you come In with it, sir, little while and I hope I am honest, sir." So Jones came up with another dollar, took the umbrella and departed.

He took a car. It. was getting dark; he stayed on the rear platform long enough to stand up the umbrella in a dim corner, then he went in and sat down. The conductor followed him in a block or so. "You left your umbrella outside, sir," he said politely, and Jones accepted it again.

He edged along to an end seat and managed to lay the umbrella along the seat behind him. Then he stopped the car. He heard the lady next him say "Umbrella" as he neared the door, but he only hurried the more. The conductor, however, rushed into the car and out, and flung the thing after him, shrieking "Your umbrella, sir." He tried to pass on and leave it lying there in the mud, but 8 gentleman called his attention to the fact, and he had to thank him and pick it up. With something of a sense of security he left the thing standing in the vestibule of his own place, and letting himself in with a key, felt safe.

It had been bad enough to lose his own umbrella, such 8 handsome one, with a gold-mounted top and a shape that said "imported" in every line. But bad as that was, it was worse to have been stuck to that other thing. Just then his bell rang. He went to the tube. A husky voice shouted up: "Here's your umbrella, sir." Jones yelled down the tube: "Go away, go away! but the voice was persistent.

"It's your umbrella, sir; don't you want It Jones yelled no, he didn't, and after pause the voice asked doubtfully: "Can have it, then, sir?" and Jones yelled yes. It was not till two weeks later that Smith remarked to Jones, "What the dickens did you give your umbrella to my man for?" Jones said "What," and Smith explained. "I didn't have an umbrella that horrid rainy Wednesday and I took yours. You were the only fellow I knew. and of course you wouldn't have let me have it if I had asked you, because it was raining, so I just took It.

Knew you'd square yourself with some other fellow. Besides, soon AS I got home I sent it down to your place by my man. He came back with it, and said you had yelled down the tube you wouldn't have it, and had given it to him. Queer you cut up rusty that way-besides you didn't know who took it, any how." All Jones could do was to look very severe and say he did know, and that he hoped it would be a lesson to Smith, but he, nevertheless, assures me that he can't see any reason for saying so much about those Seventh fellows having to be out in the wet. The girls, however, think that It's just too sweet for anything of the boys, and the latter will have a fine chance to lord it If they can and get leave to come back before the girls' tenderness wears off.

They'd better make haste, for girls' minds are capable of shifting from one thing to another pretty quickly. I heard myself a party of them make the "too sweet" declaration, and in two minutes the boys might as well have been 10,000 miles away. By that time the girls were seated for the lunch that was to precede their going to the matinee, and they were doing "Philadelphia treat." favorite fashion with women. They all get what they want and each pays her own bill. They think they save something that way, and that is why they do It, but It is hard on the waiter.

This party Included Madge, Polly, Katherine, Elouise and Frances, and Frances was running things. Now, girls, it's Philadelphia. Let's you and I order together, Polly. Soup? Oh, let's all have soup," put in "AI right" said Elouise. But Katherine That Demands Instant Recognition 23,000 Yards: PLAIN and FANCY SILKS.

Comprising the New York Selling Agent: Entire Stock of These Silk Fabrics, to Be Offered by Us on Our LARGE CENTER COUNTER at 8 o'clock. Monday Morning a From 21c to 98c Per Yard Less Than the Customary Retail Prices. NOTE. THE PRICEST Plain China Plain Surah Figured India Silks Morie and (hargestle Silks. 32-inch Draping 33c Satin Str ped.

Crepe Figured' Taff ta Wide Silk Finish Velveteens Terrible Slaughter of Dress Goods! 36-inch Halt Wool Heuriettas. 38-inch Black and Col. Wool Henriettas 18- 46-inch Finish Henriettas. 36-inch Nove ty Dress- Goods. 40-inch French 52 inch Best Imported Novelties.

Fine Scotch 24c aud 33c 36-inch Storm Serges 12c 64-inch Storm Serges 22 4 88-inch A 1-wool Broadcloth 62-inch High: Finish 38c Evening Crepons, in Crystal Henriettas, Pink, Light Blue and Cream.19: Albatross and Sural 33 Down They Clothing Go. Boys' Doub e-freested $4.00 Suits, all: sizes, go Heavy Tweed Pants a Men's Cheviot Pants at, Boys' Winter Overcoats at 89. Boys' Scotch Overcoats SHOES, RUBBERS FREE Ladies' Kid Button Shoes, paten tip. 98c, $1.25, $1:48 and .98 a put Misses' and Best School Shoes button or laced, worth $1.25 and $1.0 now go and 89 A PRINCE Who Worked as a Locomotive gineer in This Country. New York Recorder, Prince Hilkow, who has just been adpointed by the new Czar to the post of Minister of Roads and Communications, rendered vacant by the disgrace of the incompetent Krivoschine, is well known in the United States, where he served for a number of years as fireman and engineer on the Pennsylvanta and New York Central Railroads.

After having sown an extensive crop of wild oats at St. Petersburg and squandered an enormous fortune he forsook his companions of the jeunesse doree and started to seek a livelihood in the United States. When he landed here the Prince had no Idea what work he should adopt, but finally found employment as fireman on A freight engine. He worked his way up until he became an engineer, and after several years spent in this country he returned to Russia, where he experienced no difficulty in securing a similar position on the Government railroads. During the war with Turkey he greatly distinguished himself in connection with the railroading features -of the campaign, and attracted both the admiration and commendation of the late Czar's father, the then Emperor.

When Bulgaria became an sovereignty he was tendered the post of Director of the Department of Roads and Communications of that principality, which he accepted On the withdrawal of the Rus. sian functionaries he returned to St. Petersburg, and took a prominent part in the construction of the Transcaspian Railroad. THE CZARINA Trying to Banish Tobacco From the Boudoir. London Cor.

Mail and Express, I hear that the young Czarina declines to smoke, like the majority of the ladies in Russia. She has requested ther ladies-inwaiting not to come near her if there is any favor of tobacco about their clothes, and Her Imperial Majesty is credited with the observation that a cigarette in a woman's mouth is as bad as an oath in a man's. Most smoke, of and the the Grand Empress's Duchesses sister, in the Russia Duchess Bergius, is quite devoted to her cigarette. On the other hand, the Duchess of Edinburgh, sister of the late Czar, always expressed her disgust at a smoking, and this dislike has been Inherited by her daughter, the Crown Princess of Romania. This last royal lady, who is at best a very young and Inexperienced Princess, ing the greatest difficulty at the Roumanian Court, where ladies of the highest rank smoke not only cigarettes, but cigars, and even chew insists tobacco.

The Crown Princess, however, upon having her way, and she has point-blank forbidden her maids of honor and every lady in attendance upon her to use tobacco in any shape the penalty being dismissal from the court. PURGATORY. The "purgatory" idea is not original with the various Christian sects, as is generally supposed, but was known to many Oriental religionists centuries before the beginning of our era. It has survived to a Certain extent in Persia, Arabia, and Asia Minor in. eral, especially among the Jafarites and the Atizendice, branch sects of Islamism.

To them the purgatory Idea is conveyed and expressed Oriental by "place the of words Al Arat. This to be located haif way between heaven preparation" is supposed and hell, hot and, according to the popular idea, is first and then cold, going through the of changes time. of extremes 1u a very short period is the only person say who that has ever The Mohammedans their prophet out passed directly from earth to heaven withfrat Araf. going through 1 preparatory course in Al THE OXFORD JUNCTION AEROLITE. The serolite which fell near Oxford Junetion, lowe, in April, 1804, has been dug up by a syndicate, which was formed for that purpose.

It proved to be something unique in the line of air-stones, being almost as round as a cannon ball, and only about 10 inches in circumference. It is of some unknown metal, which bears semblance to bronze. It is a evidently strong a frag- rethe ment of United a larger States body and which passed over about the fell in Canada same time. Tastes Differ. Indianapolis Journal.

my favorite author," said the pas. senger with the white necktie, "Is Carlyle." "I can't say that I think said much of suit. the with the fourteen-dollar of his'n an' I must say that I think currency Ideas pretty thin." they HAIR REGENERATOR. IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR. color, Per makes restores hair rich.

lustrous clean. Steaming, salt or healthy, Tarkish and nature, affect Does it. not inter. natural and crimping. ere wita curling 1.

Bi COLORS. No. Turk Brown. Medium Chestnut. Brown.

Light Gold Blond. A free Price pie bottle and $3,00. Venus Tine" at the will be finest seat rouge on 1a 2 Avenue, N. Y. MEG.

and Netall PHARMACY, P. And all NELSON Landing 7 STORE. MVE. Yale's Hair Tonic LADIES AND GENTLEMEN: It ale fords me great pleasure to call the attention of the public to the Excel sior Hair. Tonic, which is the are and only remedy known to chem try which positively turns gray hat back to its original color without dye.

It has gone on record the Mme. M. Yale- wonderful woma chemist-has made this most valse ble of all chemical discoveries. Mae Yale personally indorses it facto and gives the public her solent guarantee, that it has been tested every conceivable way, and ba proved itself to be the ONE Hit Specific. It STOPS HAIR FALLING immediately and creates a luxurica growth.

Contains no injurious gredient. Physicians and chemise invited to analyze it. It's not stick or greasy; on the contrary it make the hair soft, youthful, fluffy, and keeps it in curl. For gentlemen sal ladies with hair a little gray, streaked gray. entirely gray, and with BALl HEADS, it is specially recommended All druggists sell it.

Price, $1. If Anybody. Offers a Substitute Shun Thes YALE. Health and Cora Specialist, Yale Temple of Beauty, No. 1 state street, Chicago.

HAIR STORE. CONTINUATION SALS or OUR POPULAR Fine Quality Switches One week more, commencing (M we wit offer for sale a complete assortment 41 shades of our $5.00 -Switches 2t Special Pile $3.00 Each This is done only by dies that were unable to call at our our last Special Switch Sales. Therefore, justice to ail, we have decided special prices one week stuck on hand, and can readily match shades that cannot be obtained elsewhere Japp's Hair Store 470 and 472 opp. 12th. Our upward, Natural, Fluffy correct Pon idea Pons, 4 price Popular 3 Dressing for WINTER RESORTS.

Lakewood, New Jersey. "The Lakewood" NOW OPEN. FRED STERRY, MANROBR (de19-39t SaSal ST. AUGUSTINE, FLAN HOTEL SAN MAROO ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 500. Located in the bealthiest and most part of at the A hotel of the moderate BLANCHARD.