The Times from Munster, Indiana • 23

fTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTl First-rate Author on mission.to inform fromage public about 'real' cheese Are You Taking a Good Multiple? Solgar's VM 75 is an extra potency multiple high in anti-oxidants vitamins. cheese tifis IB: ill 1 1 IS) Merrillville Rd. Route 30 (219) 769-3140 Cline Ridge Griffith (219) mixture until very light Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Continue beating until mixture is light and fluffy. Reduce mixer speed to low and add flour.

Beat just until batter is mixed in. Spoon batter into prepared pan. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cake comes out clean, 1-14 hours. Let cake stand for five minutes, then invert onto wire rack and cool completely before serving. Good alone or with fresh strawberries and whipped cream.

From "Cheese Primer." Rd. Park 923-8549 Check out Aunt Marine every Thursday in the Food Section, ministration forbids the importation of raw-milk cheeses aged fewer than 60 days. Therefore, cheeses like "real" Brie and Camembert (both, if "real," taste simultaneously fried-eggy, garlicky, nutty, trufflelike and mushroomy, Jenkins says), are not legally available in the United States. There haven't been any reported cases of illness or deaths from eating cheese made with unpasteurized milk, says Jenkins. But pasteurized milk, he says, can harbor listeriosis, a commonly fatal disease caused by the bacterium Listeria monocytogenes, he says.

"When you pasteurize milk, when you kill all of the bacteria, it's very simple for one illicit bac-, teria to get involved and have no competition, so it runs its race rampantly and is able to expand without any competition," says Jenkins. The Squire Tarbox Inn's Chevre Pound Cake 172 lb. soft goat cheese, at room temperature 3 sticks (34 lb.) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 cups sugar Pinch of salt 1-12 tsp. lemon extract or grated lemon zest 2 tsp. vanilla extract 6 eggs, at room temperature 3 cups all-purpose flour Yields 12 to 16 servings.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Heavily butter 10-inch tube pan and dust it with flour. Place goat cheese and butter in large bowl and cream with mixer on high speed until well blended. Add sugar, salt, lemon and vanilla extracts and beat BY TAMARA BROWNING Copley News Service When you get ready to buy a chunk of cheese, take a good look at its exterior. If the rind is red, yellow or green colored, covered with paraffin or plastic, that's a sign the cheese is factory made with "dead" pasteurized milk, says New York City author and cheese maven Steven Jenkins.

Jenkins' mission is to save you from making a pedestrian choice when it comes to cheese. The best cheeses are those made by human hands with unpasteurized or "raw" fresh milk, according to Jenkins. Anything else is glossy, flabby and bland to purchase rustic-looking cheeses," says Jenkins, author of "Cheese Primer" (Workman). "If the rind is some shade of beige from chocolate brown to 'wheat color or if there are patches of mold on the rind and it's rough and pebbly and has cloth around it, it's obviously handmade." 'Jenkins, 46, a native of Columbia, moved to New York City after graduating from high school, in 1973 to pursue acting. He met Joel Dean and Giorgio DeLuca, owners of the specialty food shop Dean DeLuca, and became their first employee.

As he became more knowledgeable about cheese, he went on a search for what he calls "real? cheese in France. It's been more than 20 years, and the lure of cheese has taken him to the top. i Jenkins has created andor revamped cheese counters at Dean DeLuca, the Fairway Market, Jiff Rft Financing Available 97 fXTIU POTBICT WULTVLt WTAMWIS WrTTH AMWO ACtt OtflATEO MNCMLS SUITABLE Ofl AGCAMMfl sua. it mo rrmcw wa wsmm iwdeb If 1710 Calumet Ave. Marina Plaza (219) 659-5848 Rft -Ski JSif Solid Amishf Oak Dining Tables SOUP oak (also available in cherry) $3 opens to 3 with 3-12" leaves, including 4 chairs a 1799 SOUTHLAKE MALL 2nd Floor by J.C.

Penney Hobart219-756-3533 CENTURY MALL Merrillville769-6223 r. AMISHJSffOAK by BURRESS When You Buy from Burre88, You're Buying the Best Buy fresrwut cheese. Store cheese in the refrigerator as close to the bottom of the appliance as possible, such as in the vegetable compartment Wrap it in aluminum foil, wax paper or plastic wrap so that the cheese can breathe. Don't freeze cheese. Bring cheese to room temperature before serving.

Leave it bwrapped while it's warming. Balducci's and other fine food shops in New York and across the country. He was the first American to be awarded France's prestigious Chevalier du Taste Fromage. Everything Jenkins has learned about cheese is contained in "Cheese Primer," which took him eight years to complete. The 548-page paperback mentions 1,000 cheeses and provides information on cheese ranging from how it's made to how to store and serve it to a geographical tour of the world's most notable cheeses.

Jenkins is partial to cheese from France, Italy and Switzerland, though he does include a section in the book on American cheese makers. It's possible to serve a differ- ent American artisanal cheese every day, says Jenkins. "All you have to do as an American is get to your retailer ar. cajole them and coax them into handling the right cheeses, all of which are in the primer with phone numbers. You then would have access to serious artisanal cheese that's going to make a big difference in your life." The U.S.

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