The Jackson Sun from Jackson, Tennessee • 9

$Ut3lathonSvm 9A TUESDAY, JUNE 2,1992 JACKSON, TENN. rui Liu GrOD ITD The After Five Cook By Thayer Wine Gannett News Service '( Area firms turn out taste treats It 'Vim I 'IV I MM vH Jf. Sun photo by Kevin Eans Michael Spotts and Jeffery Ogden salt country hams at many food producers in West Tennessee that supplies Tripp Country Hams in Brownsville. The firm is one of stores across the nation. Brownsville company is pure country By Delores Ballard Sun senior writer What used to be Jackson's best-kept secret now is crunched in California and munched in Ohio.

A small company near the Tennessee River knows what's good for the world when it comes to the trimmings for a fish fry. And when it's time to get a thick steak ready for the grill, leave it to a Paris, cottage industry based on an old family seasoning recipe to make every bite unforgettable in all 50 states. When America sits down to eat, West Tennessee sets the table with a variety of food products produced at both and locally owned companies and operations owned by firms from outside the area. At least two claim to be the leaders in their markets a testimony to the fact that when it comes to good eatin', West Tennessee is cookin'! Most area people in the region are aware that some national brands are produced in the region. Pringle's potato crisps and Duncan Hines cookies and are made at the Procter and Gamble plant in Jackson; Celeste frozen pizza is made at the Quaker Oats plant.

And the fruit drink concentrates and ice cream toppings produced at Humboldt's J. Hungerford Smith Co. now are subsidiary products of the Beatrice food conglomerate. But alongside those national big hitters are locally owned companies whose products also are at the top of their lines. The firms tout a range of products, and four companies weigh in with offerings of country hams.

Probably the giants in the region are national distributors United Foods in Bells, producer of Pictsweet frozen vegetables, and Reelfoot Packing Co. in Union City, packer of processed meats. And, then, there is Allegro Fine Foods in Paris, makers of a meat marinade that may well be the nation's top seller. Of the 160 marinades commercially available through specialty food distributors, Allegro is number one, claims John Fuqua, vice president In production since 1978, with a work force of about 14 people, Allegro bottles its savory marinade based on a family recipe formulated in 1955. Yes, Fuqua says, the ingredients are a secret But Allegro apparently has hit on the right combination the marinade is sold in all 50 states and 12 foreign countries as well as at Jackson supermarkets.

Bud Botter, owner and president of Shiloh Foods, bought out the commercial food operation formerly run by the Hagy family of the famous Catfish Hotel restaurant at Shiloh. Botter and his partner, Tom Riggs, still market frozen hush puppies under the product name Catfish Hotel, and the customers are biting. Shiloh Foods is the largest single manufacturer of frozen hush puppies in the world, claiming 60 percent of the market, said Botter. They're sold in Jackson supermarkets and also in the Kroger delis on the days catfish is served, Botter said. And, yes, the hush puppy recipe, too, is a secret Before Charlotte, N.C.

-based Coca-Cola Consolidated bought out the Sullivan family business, the locally Victor Sullivan-owned Mrs. Sullivan's Pies were Jackson's sweetest deal. Well, says plant manager Mike Rushing, the operation might have corporate ownership now, but it hasn't changed the recipe nor the delicious taste of the tart-sized pies that come in pecan, coconut and chocolate flavors All that's changed, Rushing says, is that the pies' audience is a lot bigger than West Tennessee. Pies ship as far west as California, as far north as the tip of Ohio and down through Florida, Louisiana and Texas. Rushing expects to have the product in the northwest by next year.

The company also is about to introduce a brownie, which Rushing said i room where the temperature is maintained at an even 40 degrees. Here, plant employees don rubber gloves and rub each ham down with a mixture of salt and a little sugar, the first step in the curing process. The excess salt is washed off the outside and the ham is hung upside down for three weeks in a second refrigerated room what Tripp calls the "equalization" step in the process. From there, the hams journey from winter to a warm day in early summer the aging room, where they'll spend four weeks at a constant 85 degrees. After that, it's deep summertime four days in the smokehouse, where it's about 100 degrees "like a real hot summer day." Tripp says with the smoke from smoldering hickory sawdust swirling around them.

Originally, he said, smokehouses had nothing to do with curing meat they were used to keep flies and other insects from contaminating the meat during warm-weather months. But the smoke did impart a flavor to the meat that people associate with Southern meat preservation. Now, Tripp said, the smoking is done for flavor. He uses electric "bug-zapper" lights to take care of any flies that might wander in. Charlie Tripp grew up working after school, on weekends and in the sum Honey-mustard salad dressing Yield: 2 cups 1 cup mayonnaise Juice of 1 lemon Vi teaspoon powdered ginger 3 Tablespoons Dijon mustard 3 Tablespoons dark brown sugar 3 Tablespoons Country Boy Honey 3 Tablespoons soy sauce Blend all ingredients in a bowl.

Will keep up to three weeks covered and refrigerated. Chicken Allegro Serves 6 6 chicken breasts cup Allegro marinade 1 stick butter or magarine 2 Tablespoons flour 1 cup sour cream Put chicken pieces in plastic bag placed in deep bowl. Pour on Allegro marinade. Close bag and marinate 6 to 8 hours or overnight under refrigeration. Drain chicken and reserve mari erf Cold soup a tasty meal The first time I tasted a gazpacho was in Seville, Spain, many years ago.

My memories of that cold, red were mostly of tomatoes and lots of garlic. following soup was inspired by a yellow version I discovered at a feast of the best offerings of more than 30 South Florida chefs at a recent food conference in Miami. Although you can serve this soup immediately, it is better when chilled for at least three hours. -Yellow tomatoes have considerably less acid, so the taste of this is sweeter than most versions of gazpacho made with red tomatoes. It can be made with or without the yellow peppers.

If you leave them out, add an extra quarter cup of chopped cucumbers. Speaking of cucumbers, choose cucumbers with tiny seeds the extra long English cucumbers or small pickling cucumbers would work well. If the common, dark green-skinned variety is the only one handy, peel and cut into lengthwise quarters. Slice off the seeds from the center of the cucumber and use the solid part Golden Gazpacho Serves 4 Preparation time: 25 minutes Chilling time: 3 and one-half hours 2 large yellow tomatoes 4 green onions, white and pale green parts only, sliced one-half teaspoon minced fresh garlic three-quarters cup chopped peeled cucumber one-half cup chopped yellow bell pepper 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley 2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 2 to 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar one-quarter teaspoon salt, optional Dip tomatoes in hot water 30 seconds; peel and remove cores. Cut in half crosswise and remove seeds, using a strainer to catch any juices.

Roughly chop tomatoes and place them and strained juices in work bowl of food processor fitted with metal blade. 2. Add sliced green onions, garlic, cucumber and yellow pepper. Process 10-15 seconds or until well chopped. 3.

Add parsley, basil, olive oil and vinegar. Process until completely pureed. Although it can be served immediately, it's best if chilled in glass container at least three but no more than twelve hours. Adjust taste by adding salt or vinegar at serving time. EATING OUT Beach party at O'Charley's goes on Jackson can't go to the beach, so O'Charley's has brought the beach to Jackson.

Continuing today and Wednesday, O'Charley's in Hamilton Hills Shopping Center is having a beach party, with sand and everything. The event to kick off summer features beer specials; mixed drink specials on Blue Lightning, Long Beach Tropical Tea and Macho Marguerita; and a dunk where you can take your aim and get somebody really wet "We're going to throw down," promises Steve Morton, the O'Charley's bartender coordinating this event AMEN CORNER And we know that all things work together for good to those who love God, to those who are the called according to His purpose. Romans 8:28 TO CALL THE EDITOR Regional editor Carla Johnson Kimbrough can be reached at 427 3333, Ext 187. Metro Editor Diana Branum ran be reached at 427-3333, Ext 171. Reader Services Editor Michael Mercer is at 427-3333, Ext 18a Topics Projects Editor Robert J.

Moore can be reached at 427-3333, Ext 113. In West Tennessee outside Madison County, readers can -all toll-free 1-800-372-3922. -4 mers at his dad's country ham plant when other boys were playing baseball. He hated it He couldn't wait to get out get educated and get the pork out of his system. He said he would never come back.

But it came time to graduate from college, the draw of a family business and the aroma of country ham beckoned him back home. He bought his dad out, took in a partner and built Tripp Country Hams from a two-man operation to an industry that now employes up to 17 people. He puts in 12-to-13-hour days six days a week. Mostly what Tripp packs for grocery sales is plastic packages of center slices, biscuit-size portions and seasoning pieces. Sales of whole hams have their best time between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Lots of people give country hams as gifts, and Tripp says he does a "huge mail-order business" all based on word of mouth. He doesn't advertise. Tripp personally enjoys the country bacon every morning for breakfast and occasionally, he'll take a couple of ham slices home to "see if the process is working OK." It seems to be, so far. Tripp Country Hams were named grand champion in the Tennessee State Fair Country Ham contest for the last two years. nade.

In Dutch oven or heavy skillet on stovetop, brown chicken lightly in butter. Add enough water to keep from burning, cover and cook on low to medium heat until done, about an hour. When almost done, add marinade and cook 20 more minutes. Remove chicken; add blended flour and sour cream to the pan, stir and let thicken. Return chicken to pan and heat through.

Slow-fried Tripp country ham with red-eye gravy Allow one slice per serving Slice country ham V4-to-W-inch thick Put in seasoned iron skillet with a little water and cook on low for about 10 minutes, turning often. RED-EYE GRAVY: Remove ham to platter. Add another cup water to skillet along with two tablespoons brewed coffee. Simmer 3-5 minutes, stirring until liquid turns a reddish color. Serve with ham slices and hot biscuits.

ness as a source of pride. I never let it become my problem," he said. Broadway honors BOSTON (AP) Actor Jason Ro-bards and choreographer Tommy Tune have received Elliot Norton Lifetime Achievement Awards for their contributions to stage and film. Robards made his stage debut in 1956 as Hickey in Eugene O'Neill's "The Iceman Cometh." Tune made his Broadway debut in 1965, dancing in the chorus of "Baker Street." li By Delores Ballard Sun senior reporter BROWNSVILLE It's always summer and always winter at Tripp Country Hams. "This is just the old-fashioned way of doing it," says owner Charlie Tripp, one of the West Tennessee food producers whose brand-name products are familiar to local grocery shoppers.

"There's no secret to it Everybody's grandparents used to do it" Tripp's processing plant in Brownsville takes the rear ends of between 35,000 and 45,000 hogs a year and turns them into the smoky, salty delicacy known as country ham. Tripp's is one of several country ham curers in West Tennessee, along with Mar-Tenn in Martin, Miller in Dresden and Clifty Farm in Paris, probably the region's biggest producer. The 12- to 14-week Tripp process takes the hog meat through a simulated winter and summer, approximating the weather conditions for killing, curing and storing meat in the days before people had the luxury of refrigeration. "The main thing to do," Tripp says, "is don't rush it" The raw hams he buys from the packing house go first to the "winter" test-marketed to rave reviews. And, of course, Mrs.

Sullivan's pies are widely available in local retail stores. Here are some more West Tennessee-produced foods to try next time you set the table: Pap Paw's Pig Sauce. Developed by Page Newman, a Jackson certified public accountant, this all-purpose sauce is recommended for everything from garnishing a barbecue sandwich to mixing into meat loaf or baked beans. It comes in mild and hot and is available at Meat where Newman's son, Madison County Commissioner John Newman, cooks and bottles it Country Boy Honey. Produced and distributed by Merlin Lyell's Honey Farms in Union City, it is available in Jackson supermarkets.

Homemade jams and jellies from Kaufman's Kountry Kitchen in Cottage Grove. It is available in Jackson supermarkets. Try the strawberry-rhubarb. Recipes for using some of the area products: baseless," Proffer, a CBS Records executive, said in a letter Friday. In a statement Monday, the Arnolds said the settlement "was a complete vindication." They claimed in a lawsuit last year that Proffer had the house trashed to concoct a story he could sell to the tabloids.

And that's an order BOYS TOWN, Neb. (AP) Gen. Colin Powell was about to beg Boys Town students to finish their education when he recalled his position. Former landlord apologizes to Roseanne; drops lawsuit "I beg of you no, I'm the chairman. I don't have to beg.

I order you, get a good education, don't ever quit school," the chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff told about 600 students from Boys Town and Omaha schools Monday. Powell visited the home for troubled youths during his trip to Omaha for the deactivation of the Strategic Air Command at Offutt Air Force Base. He told the students they can overcome whatever obstacles they face. "I'm a black man. I used that black LOS ANGELES (AP) Roseanne and Tom Arnold didn't trash a $3.5 million mansion after all, their former landlord now says.

Spencer Proffer had sued the couple for $171,000 to cover broken windows and furniture, a scuffed tennis court and other damage he blamed on the Arnolds, who rented Proffer's home for 10 months beginning in 1989. Proffer has since withdrawn his lawsuit, apologized for filing it and agreed to pay the Arnolds $66,000. "The claims made against you were.