The Morning Call from Allentown, Pennsylvania • 54

D2 THE MORNING CALL, WEDNESDAY, JULY 13, 1983 ti FANCY FOOD Continued From Page D1 two grandfatherly types. Grandmothers busy in kitchen, no doubt. Remember Freixenet. Find Cordon Negro, Brut, encased in wine lLj nam 51 1 mm (Qiffy ean Soft meaty taste that stays fresh in the bowl all day! Plus 32 bonus nuggets of nutrition. 1 flMKHHMmi badge and activity book.

See bags of Bachman's pretzels and feel wave of nostalgia. "Ach so goodt" says the label; pretzel looks so plain, so unfancy, so comforting. Say hello to Jane of Peggy Jane's Dressings. (Partner Peggy is Sen. Barry Goldwater's daughter.) Try Pre Monde cheese, low-salt, low-cholesterol, low-calorie; also low-guilt factor.

Have two pieces. Smile at marzipan Paddington bear and head toward lobby to witness arrival of His Royal Highness Prince Albert of Belgium. On way, run into Joe's Wild Mushroom Products and Jack and Heidi Czarnecki, who have closed their Reading restaurant for the week to introduce their Fancy Mushrooms and spicy Burgundy Pepper Sauce. "We put the sauce into a Bloody Mary," Chef Jack says, "and call it a Bloody Pepper." Bully for Jack. Out in hail, listen to uniformed band from Royal Military School of Music in London swinging sedately.

Leader, sword at side, wears red sash over long fitted cqat, Violinist, shoulder festooned with gold braid, miraculously avoids entangling bow in braid. Fanfare sounds. The Prince and his entourage ascend majestically on slow-moving escalator; step smoothly into handshakes with welcoming committee. Trail behind dignitaries; notice Prince wearing dark gray pin-striped suit with double vents in coat. In Belgian area of show, everybody all smiles and respectful bows.

Tasting 20 paces behind royal party, nibble on Scottish salmon smoked in Belgium and drink Maitrank, a woodruff-flavored wine, served with orange slices in lovely Belgian crystal glasses. (No plastjc cups for Albert.) The Prince chats graciously; the pauper meets slender Pirou Wafer-sticks, Vanderkerken chocolate pralines, Pidy edible snail shells (sans esgargots), Neuhaus chocolate, Poir-et, a sugarless pear and apple spread and Rombouts coffee. Prince departs. Pauper makes do with costumed Uncle Sam, peddling his People-Bones, chocolate chip cookies. Shedding inhibitions like used toothpicks, stop at Denmark cheese booth.

Try assorted Danish cheeses: Danablu; Danbo with caraway seeds, mild Svenbo; stronger Esrom. Take one more look at Romanoff booth: Lid still not off caviar. Exit by way of Twining's Tea. Hear about latest addition to tea line, Yunnan, and accept cup of Black Currant Iced Tea, one of three iced tea mixes being introduced. Asked if Britons drink iced tea, British salesman, eyebrows shooting to hairline, suppresses shudder, says simply, "Oh, no." Wind up, fittingly, at Fini pasta booth for squash-filled tortelloni, HQ 1 4 ritiM bucket and beautifully chilled.

"Enjoy," says salesman, perhaps echoing one of the vintners' mottoes, "Celebrate life's little victories." Instant judgment: These are my kind of people. Watch Joyce Chen stir up a Chinese dish with one of her new cooking sauces, this one Kung Pao, spicy and very Sichuan. Bump into Slavic Foods people who extend cup of a natural fruit juice and show off their tort wafers: "Layer them with jam, whipped cream, custard or frosting, and, in minutes, you have an elegant dessert." Pause for breather; discover hand is clutching cup of Bob's Famous Ice Cream, melting under Cortina hot fudge sauce. It's 11:30 in the morning. Am momentarily aghast.

Throw caution and empty cup to the wastebasket and get on with tour: a slice of Soppresto, an Italian sausage made by Citterio in Freeland; a slice of Chocolate Decadence, a rich cake with a three-month shelf life, if well-hidden, that is (Sign here says, "Eat dessert first; life is and, proving the statement, a slice or two of smoked salmon. Moving on, arrive at Mac Farms of Hawaii and a million bucks' worth of macadamia nuts; have one and am presented with "That's My Favorite," a chocolate crunch candy which is subtitled, "This candy is not for everyone," Right. Jaws unlock after marvelous coffee at Coffee Development Group, allowing taste of Graham's shortbread and look at El Paso Chile Inc. This booth done up with strings of braided garlic, skinny peppers, wreaths adorned with wheat sheaves and tiny ears of corn. Interest rewarded with tiny cup of chile, Talkative importer of seven Belgian chocolates offers chocolate business card; suggests trying a Michel Guerard raspberry truffle ($30 a pound).

Sensational. Correct unbalanced diet with spoonful of Pappas Balkan Dressing made from Tarama caviar, feta cheese, garlic and 20 other ingredients. "The recipe is my father's," says earnest young woman in charge. Have another cuplet of coffee at Fairwinds. (Am catching on; seem to be learning how to ask questions, take notes, manage bagful of literature, handle plastic cups and paper plates, wield toothpicks all at same time.

Useful talent.) Here a nacho; there a slug of barbecue sauce. Now, oh, goody, marinated Heartichokes from Zeno Products, Inc. Also on the menu, and equally good, Magic Mushrooms and mushroom salad. Get pitch on Summer Camp Survival Kit, $12.50 at stores "everywhere." Kit contains a big brownie or blondie, a knife to cut it with, a Day 1: Am flabbergasted by enormity of show, hundreds of booths, food all over the place. Get off to sober start.

Just looking, thanks. First impressions: Candy, candy, candy. Pass by buckets of sourballs, caramels, toffee, taffy, Gummy bears, Gummy alligators, Gummy cars, Gummy pacifiers, Gummy this, Gummy that. Notice all 34 flavors of Teanee-Beanees, the jelly beans made by Just Born in Bethlehem; am told best seller is pina colada. Feeling strong and calorie-resistant, admire Ferrara's Holy Cannoli, tiny versions of Italian pastries, and Lord Maxwell's shortbread with macadamias and almonds.

Marvel at reeze-dried shrimp and succumb to Sharwood's mango chutney. Delicious as a basting sauce for pork, salesman volunteers. Not bad for breakfast, either. Spy old West Coast friend, Granny Goose potato chips, in three new styles Hawaiian, California and pan fries. Try one of each.

Follow up with Chamay cider, a nonalcoholic beverage made from French apples. So much for resistance. Hurry past Calico Cottage booth-keepers, "fudge people since 1964," and their Fudg-Kist apples; head for Montana Ranch canned beef. "Help yourself," says friendly woman, one of six ranch wives who began business five years ago: "That's beef stro-ganoff, made with our cooked lean beef. It's nice and lean, good to have on hand for casseroles, stews and barbecues." Sample Klement sausage and Wisconsin Colby.

Ignore Bill Blass chocolate ganache, a "creamy whipped chocolate sensation." Have, instead, Godiva chocolate raspberry cordial ice cream: good but a bit pricey at $3.75 a pint. Voice from Atlantis Gourmet Foods, asks, "Will you try our mousse of salmon and white scallops?" Certainly. And some of that forest pate (duck, mushrooms and cognac), please. Good grief. Going with the flow, wind up beside Freixenet booth, filled with sparkling champagne-like Spanish wines.

Man says, "Come back in 10 minutes; the bottles aren't quite chilled." Will do. Drift toward big wheel of Stilton, belonging to Northfield Cheese American distributors for England's Express Dairies and Eden-vale cheeses. Stilton says, "Eat me." Happy to oblige. A dab of Derby? A little Leicester? Some Lancashire? Sure, sure, sure. Push onward.

At Byrd Cookie have Confederate Cannon Ball and one or two dainty benne wafers, classic Southern sesame-seed cookies and the bakery's No. 1 item. Get pitch on Grandmama's Love Apple (tomato) Jam and Grandma's Fruit Cake from pouch of 32 Bonus Nuggets of Nutrition Puss 'n Boots Moist Meals New Special Formula in the 48-oz. bag. 02 GOURMit EGO 1983 The Quaker Oats Company 5648 Puss 'n BootsJVioist Meals, 35C J-' I I New Special Formula in the 48-oz.

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Limit one coupon per transaction. 1983 The Quaker Oats Company Look for it in the dry cat food section. 5648 grown-up tortelhni. Please See FANCY FOOD Paqe D3 A 1 Juko TASTES LIKE IT'S FRESH-PRESSED IN A COUNTRY ORCHARD. Delicious Minure Moid Apple Juice from concen- rrore is 100 pure.

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