Honolulu Star-Bulletin from Honolulu, Hawaii • 59

iJiHUiiiiinttifHiiiiiininitiiiiifitniirnfinniMfunfutitffiiniuniTttiiiifififir I THIRD SECTION I tMrnlk 1 NEWS AXD FEATURES 1 1 FOR ALL THE FAMILY 1 iiftiiiititiitiiiitiiiiitiiiiiiiitititiit) imittiiuiiUMtituiiiintiiiiniiiiiiiiiiitiiii? nmmiiiiiimimimmiitmiuniiiiiiimiiiimimiim tniitiit it iniiiiiif nr HONOLULU STAR-BULLETIN, SATURDAY, JULY 4, 1936 ARTS AND CRAFTS OF OLD HAWAII READY FOR HEALTHY REVIVAL ,1 i 1 tf ii aa a mm fc i i 1 i inn "-im'fr it F.tl..- I. tHO tins rive little Impression Of how difficult ft task was ihe manufacture nf llau-aiian liana Th which the fibers could not be traced as they can in the Samoan kapa so common today. Another Hawaiian slippery grass. In pahu Or moaf ancient Hawaiian surpassed all other races in the art of kapa Hawaiian kapa, which is no longer manufactured commercially, was the product of a long, tedious felting process. The result was a cloth in an.

oui one wr.icn continues commercially ioaay, is poi mailing, un me rieni iwo iaas irora me iwmt in-meha school pound the taro root into a paste. Hawaii Tourist Bureau photos. have possibilities beyond the "But why can't the planta- his lectures on the art of kapa curio trade. tions send labor crews in to making, he has "sat down and "There is an opportunity for cut the blossoms to sell to hat pounded me out a piece of expanding the local hat mak- makers? Today the blossoms kapa." From the Hawaiian ing industry," says Mrs. Tay- are burned when the fields are forest at the be traced and the layers eventually come apart.

But so much more work is entailed in Hawaiian kapa that it may not be able to meet the price com- lor. "When I was a girl, only prepared for harvesting." girls school he has obtained petition ot bamoan. darts were thrown. Archery was a sport for the nobles only. They used the bow and arrow to shoot rats, never for war.

Whether tourists will be attracted by real Hawaiian music is problematical. What is known os Hawaiian music today was developed after the coming of missionaries. It has melody and harmony. Until the last few months there was no old style Hawaiian music consisting of rhythm without melody. The three notes of plantation workers used lau Hats are now being blocked the same plants which the still in Hawaii.

Scattered Hawaiians and the Kawailoa Girls' Training school inmates make them of lauhala. But the finer mats are no longer made. The Niihau or maka-loa mat was the finest made in the islands. As closely woven as course cloth, it was noted for its smooth finish and suppleness. Today makaloa mats are almost priceless.

The reed from which it is made arows in the swamps of Niihau. Hawaiians used to dve their Before the comina of the kapa pa'us (skirts) and malos white man, Hawaiians only (loin cloths). He has dyed used the ti or ki plant as a kapa, using the methods that source of candy. The root, the old Hawaiians used to baked underground, becomes from tapa imported from Samoa. These hats are strikingly pretty.

Building a factory to manufacture kapa in large quantities at low cost was a dream hala hats. The higher classes would never think of wearing lauhala hats. "Today lauhala weaving has been refined and the hats blocked and bleached. Fifth Ave. shops of New York fea- RICHAKD WEINBERG Mrs.

Emma Ahuena Taylor impresses one as a person who has carried a strikingly handsome, youthful appearance into maturity. Although her heir is gray and her old fashioned, black holoku sweeps the floor, her limpid brown eyes retain all the charm and fire of youth. Her carefully modulated voice recalls a day when conversation was not neglected art. The plaintive moaning ot saxophones faintly filters into the room. Contrasting visions are suggested by the syncopated music and her cultivated voice.

One symbolizes sophisticated Honolulu of 1936 dancing to the strains of a dance band imported from the mainland. The other arouses. mental images of Hawaiian cowboys twirling leather Jariats as they gallop through the dusty used the nuts as a laxative and relish and as a torch. E. H.

Bryan Jr. suggests in Hawaiian Nature Notes that kukui nut oil has ommercial possibilities since it can be used for nearly alh the purposes that linseed oil is used for. Between 1 840 and 1 850, 8,000 to 10,000 gallons a year were exported from the islands. What remains of the old Hawaiian industries? Lauhala hat making springs to one's mind at once because it has been revived so strongly the last three years. Lei making is another.

Surfboard making and riding, which died about 1860, was revived in 1910. The renewed interest in canoe racing the last few years has lent new life to the declining canoe making industry in Kona. make their colors fast. He directed the experiments in a sweet, brown confection. The Hawaiians' alcoholic beverages the chants are not properly The industry can be revived if the reed is transplanted in speaking a melody, swamos on Oahi or the other Six months ago two Hawai-islands.

ians began visiting the Bishop Lauhala is a growing indus- museum to study the instru- try. It is used fo napkin mcnts there. Timothy rings, coasters for glasses, up- lei Montgomery and Fred M. holstery, floor mats, table cov- Beckley Kahea searched until ers, bed covers, pillow covers they found the authentic ma and fans and hats terials tor Hawaiian instruments. They obtained shark skin 4o cover their drums, canna seeds for their gourd rattles and bamboo for nose There is a fast growing streets of Honolulu Thp vprv room in which she group of pseud o-Hawaiian I JtsK A ''--r'AA- ti I mm 7 a 'Wr a is: 1 4 'i 1 vErr'Aif -y ttH -J r.

-i n. lives offers contrast between crafts. These are things which past and present. It is located the Hawaiians never had, such in a large downtown hotel. But as perfumes, pottery and tho rhnirs are carved from drapes, but which have A Hawaiian lady has unaided carried on a little industry of her own since 1927.

She bottles squid which can be used in cocktails; manufactures a seasoning of kukui nut; dries fish and sells all the Ha-waaian foods from red salt to laulau. Of no direct commercial value is the hobby of Kamehameha schools' Mr. Mitchell, a Hawaiian motif, never had chairs. been given Hawaiians flutes. Assembling their instruments at the Roycl mausoleum in Nuuanu valley where Mr.

Kahea is caretaker, they learned ta play their instruments. Mr. Kahea is an accomplished musician in his own right. They have given demonstrations at the Hono- but lauhala has been used to koa; the paddle of King Kamehameha stands in a corner and heavy volumes pack two bookcases. The library once belonged to her late husband, Albert Pierce Taylor, veteran newspaperman and for six years librarian of the archives.

Born in Honolulu as the upholster chairs. The manufacture of coconut buttons belongs to this group. A great deal can be learned from the life of old Hawaii. The old Hawaiians raised su who has aroused the interest lulu Academy of Arts, Kcme- of many people by hfs indi- hamcha school for boys, Puna- vidual efforts to revive the hou academy and St. Louis sports of old Hawaii.

Kenneth college, and the Hawaii Prod- P. Emory of Bishop museum ucts Show. So enthusiastic has blamed the disappearance have the Kamehameha boys of the Hawaiian sports or the been that the Hui Oiwi of that perior sweet potatoes ZOO great granddaughter of Capt. years ago. Their poi was of But seven months ago true Hawaiian music was virtually extinct and Montgomery, coworker, demonstrates the kaekeeke or bamboo "beaters.

On his left stands a pahu hula or hula drum with shark skin cover. A kilu or little drum which can be tied to the knee is in the foreground. Star-Bulletin photos. George Beckley, tngltsh Ship- higher quality than what can the instruments were museum pieces, in mat snort time two mwauans CA nA -ru i have recreated the Hawaiian instruments. One of the revivers, Fred M.

master, side and be bought today. The olona absorption of the Hawaiians on one Beckley Kahea (right) plays the hano or nose flute. Timothey Makalei fiber cordaqe is far stronaer Chiefess Ahia on the other, Mrs. Toylor was in a position to observe at first hand the life in Hawaii of the last century. She has served as a than hemp, as proved by tests ture Hawaiian lauhala hats, of Mrs.

Taylor's husband. He in the bureau of standards in This industry is no passing foresaw a demand for kapa for Washington, D. C. fancy because the hats are covering books and as a mate- "The Hawaiians possessed really suited for use in Hawaii rial for ladies' hand bags. An- were kelu-pia, a beer made from the sweet potato, and the awa root drink.

Convicts introduced the distillation of the ki root from mash. The product was called kulu, tapa making by the girls of Kamehameha schools. Mr. Mitchell regards Samoan kapa as inferior to Hawaiian. Hawaiian was made by a felting process in which the fiber strips were folded school will construct instruments next year and organize a real Hawaiian orchestra.

The repertoire of the two pioneers includes the large pahu hula drum), kiln (drum tied to knee, pu (cench shell), uliuli (rattle gourd), hano (nose flute), kaekeeke (bamboo beaters giving a deep hollow tone). in adapting themselves to the new mode of living introduced by white men and to the discouragement missionaries cave to all ancient pastimes. Though few persons are aware of it, the Hawaiians devoted more time than any other race to sports, games and amusements. They had a meaning drippings. Usage and refolded and doubled over changed the name to okole member ot the Hawaiian other medical knowledge just and mainland summer re-Legend and Folklore commis- as important as the use of sorts." sion and as vice chairman of herbs," writes Dr.

Nils P. Lar- Lauhala is not 'the sole Ha- the Hawaiian Historical com- sen in Ancient Hawaiian Civi- waiian hat. In monorchia! mission. lization. "Among these may days hats were made of many From her copious supply of be mentioned forms of physio- different materials grown information about the crafts, therapy for instance, lomi- locally.

Loulu hats were made and rolled and Dour.ded and hao. ether use would be as wall board because kapa can be made of any designated thickness. Hawaiian kapa was the finest ever made either in Polynesia, Africa or the Orient, says Donald Mitchell of the Kamehameha school for boys. Every year before delivering Production of ki root okole- for bettinq. The ulili (three aourds on a stick) passion crowds at great tournaments puili 'bamboo sticks used in often numbered thousands pounded and new strips added until it was impossible to trace fibers.

Samoan is made by pounding out layers and pasting them together. Fibers can hao on a large scale is suggested by Mrs. Taylor. She envisions plantations of ki plants planted in rows three feet apart with sweet potatoes, lomi, use of steam baths, and from the fan palm. These use of ti leaf wrappings and beautiful white hats resem-forms of psycho-therapy bled Panama hats and Mrs.

labeled 'magic' by the unin- Taylor maintains that the Ha-formed." waiia women can still make Much of the Hawaiian drug loulu hats if they are given the knowledge has been lost but materials, it is known that they used She has taught a Hawaiian uhaloa for, sore throats and woman to make pumpkin crts and industries of old Hawaii she is trying to aid the members of her race in recreating the crafts, arts and industries of old Hawaii. This kindly lady with limpid Hawaiian eyes says: "So man of my friends come to me for help. And I have no money to give. All I 1 Surfriding was the most popular cf the old Hawaiian sports. It was neglected from I860 to 1910.

Today it is thriving and has given birtn to the world wide sport of aquaplaning. Mr. Mitchell has encourcged the Kamehameha boys this year to construct the equipment for tH a waiian sports. and other vegetables planted between rows. "If people insist on drinking, why should not we manufacture the liquor in the islands and let local people keep the profit instead of mainlanders," contends Mrs.

ill aaaR A "a straw hats of a white, satiny hula), ukeke (bow with three strings that are plucked). In the five years a revolutionary note has been struck in Hawaiian arts and crafts. Hawaiian design has been cp-plied fo articles thoroughly foreign to Hawaii. For example, glasses have been decorated with crystal designs of tropical fish and curtains have been printed in kapa and flower designs. Perhaps the most striking innovation has been the invention of Hawaiian perfume.

Odors available include wild ginger, pikake and fern, ell contained in wooden flasks on colds with similar results as aspirin gives and that kowali have is my advice. But I get a million dollars worth of hap finish quite unique. This makes the finest hat in the islands. Hats can also be made from coconut leaves. The iwa- was an effective laxative.

The kahunas knew how to "Dl a. TU, Taylor. quality liquor which maika disks to roll for distance hao is a massage and pound and ma- might be exported." or to aim between two sticks. nipulate sore muscles to bring iwa hat is made from the relief. .1 The kahuna kahea re piness by helping them help themselves." Conversing with her opens a new world to the listener.

It reveals a nest of little industries which have heretofore been virtually unnoticed. It lieved pain by Avt LS maiden hair tern and the eka-ha hat from the bird's nest fern. "The brightest possibilities lie in the sugar cane hat," They have learned foot wres- The real Hawaiian broom tling and other sports, was a bundle of fibers bound His efforts bore fruit on together with olona to a stick. May 16 when the first Hawai-The fibers were the niau or ian athletic carnival was held mid-rib of the coconut leaf, at Olympic field. The Kame- In reviving the last arts and crafts of Hawaii lies employ- VA shows a vast undeveloped field ment for the Hawaiians end Mrs.

Taylor asserts. "The which are carved the plant Such a broom was springy and hameha boys won the Joseph from which comes the essence. A shaped like a French broom. K. 5-arnngton calabash.

Lauhala matting has been con-Mrs. Taylor suggests that han- Coasting was a sport of the verted into upholstery for dies from worn out brooms chiefs. Long, narrow sleds chairs. Davenports have been might be salvaged to be fitted with runners oiled with kukui covered with material in Poly-with new brushes made of nut oil sped down the hillside nssian design. Plates hevs coconut mid-ribs.

course, constructed of a layer becn painted in kapa patterns. of stones, overlaid with hard A nhase of this work has for reviving the sports, music, for the rising generation who stalk of the young blossoms arts and crafts of the old Ha- can not find employment in are used to weave a delicate waiians. the major industries. Hawai- material that must be seen to A stone age man was the ian kapa (tapa) is more beau- be appreciated. The planta-encient Hawaiian but he made tiful and rugged than that of tions can not be expected to good use of the materials at Samoa which is sold in Hono- allow Hawaiian women to in-hand.

He improvised an ef- lulu in all curios shops, but vade the cane fields. They'd fective" rain coat by soaking practically none is made here, ruin the crop by pulling down kapa in kukui nut oil. He also These old crafts and industries the stalks. A revival of Hawaiian sports has been promoted by Donald Mitchell of the Kamehameha school for boys. Under his guidance students have made the equipment to play Hawaiian games.

Two Hawaiians are shown rolling maika disks. Star-Bulletin photo. iConttfiued on P2e 7) Mat making is carried on packed dirt and covered with.