HOME DRESSMAKING. HOW TO CUT STYLISH WAISTS. SKIRTS AND Economy In the Cue of Good!—Direction* For Cutting the Seven Gored Skirt—Instruction* For Catting Loo*e Blotue* and Tight Bacqne*. [Special Correspondence.] NEW YORK, Oct. 11.—Each succeeding season brings forth new ideas in dressmaking as well as in materials. While the changes of this season are not radical, they are still of sufficient importance to describe for the benefit of the home dressmaker who likes to be repaid for her labor in good results and rtylish garments. In the first place, economy is the main thing to consider. Goods 44 to 52 inches wide are the best value, as they cut absolutely -without waste. An ordinary skirt is 40 to 41 inches long and is cut in seven gores—one front gore, cut on the double, so that the fold will come in the eiact middle; two front Bide gores, two back side gores and two back gores. If the material is in solid color or in a design alike all over, the •whole seven breadths may be cut from 84 inches of the goods by laying one' pattern up and one down, as is shown on the diagram. Then the selvage seams of the two side breadths are sewed to the bins edges of the front breadth. The next two side gores are sewed in the game way, but the back gores have the •traight eeam in the center and the bias one* meeting the bias ones of the side gores. A tape or si piece of some stout cotton must be sewed in so that the •earn will not drug. All skirt seams must 1» sewed from the top downward and any irregularity cut away at the bottom. The skirt should measure yards around. Another quarter may be added for very stout women by making •the gores slant a little more when cutting the skirt. It is in the finishing of these fikirts that the newest style lies. It is now an admitted fact that all stylish skirts are to be artificially sustained. By thi.t I mean that they are stiffened and held in place by various applications of featherbone. The front side •earns have lines of it extending from top to bottom to hold them smooth and without a wrinkle. The featherbone used for this purpose is a quarter of an inch vide and very flexible. It is presupposed that a facing of buckram has been cut to conform exactly 1 o tho shape of the bottom of the breadths. This is sewed flat, one edge over the other, and then this is stitched to a deep facing of sateen or percaline, and in some cases it is faced again with fine mohair. The lower edge is basted to the outside, and along this is stitched a now of wider and a little heavier feathe:.'bone. Outside of this the velvet binding is put on or one of the many corded braids made for the purpose. After this is on and finished the upper part o!' the facing is lightly but firmly cat stitched to the gown. This is all done even when the skirt is lined. The tipper part of the skirt may be simply "held full" to the band, or it maybe slightly gathered or V shaped plaits laid in, so that it fits like a glove. That is a matter of taste. In the back it may be shirred or laid in deep box plaits. An elastic is put in at the back about 18 inches below the waist, fastened to the center seam and the two back gore seams. Every seam that is sewed should be pressed with a moderately hot and heavy iron as fast as it is sewed. If this is done, the skirt when finished should look as if it had grown together, the featherbone around the bottom giving it that rich, firm sweep so stylish just now. The skirt should just clear the ground, but no more. This is not sufficient in the way of distension, and there has to be an under- akirt to wear with the elegant new •nstainfl the fullness at the back of the outer dress. Any lady can make one^>f ihese skirtii for herself. They are exptn- sive to buy, but not so when made at aome. The waiirts come next and are divided into two distinct classes, the loose blouse and the tight basque fitted waist. A reference to the diagram will show Nos. 1 and 2, the foundation waist for the blouse. No. 7 shows the shape of the material to be applied to the lining mentioned above, and that will produce an effect like No. 8. The .seams in the lining are to be sewed as usual and then featherboned. The shoulders should be taken in with the blouse. This is cut so as to have four plaits, each 2 inches wide. Lay the plaits first, just so that the inner edges touch, and if of cloth or other wool goods press them flat. Those in the back are only fastened to the waist line. Those in front reach the bottom. Where the line is marked FOE LITTLE FOLKS. BESSIE AND HER DOG. How the Bra-re Newfoundland loft HI* Life Defending: Hl» MiltrgM. Wednesday morning Bancbman Sam Dodge, who lives 1? miles southwest of Caney, Kan... in the Osage country, went to Vinita on business, and shortly after he had gone Bessie, his 5-year-old daughter, wandered away from home in an attempt to follow him. Mrs. Dodge discovered her absence about two hours after her husband's departure. She made a thorough search of the premise; and, failing to find the child, notifiud the neighbors of her disappearance. They turned out in force and scoured the prairies all that day and all that night and all the next day searching for the little wanderer. Late Thursday NEW WAIST FORMS. iicross it is shirred and tacked to the lining, In front it is fulled up and only fastened at the bottom. The shoulder seams are basted and sewed and the sleeves set in. The new collar, called the Lafayette, is cut in four pieces, like those marked 6 and'6. The lining is made of buckram, and it is stitched with a row of duplex featherbone all around the upper part and on each of the three seams. The outside is then made double and fitted over it, and it falls into position when worn without pressing. The bias seams should be slightly pulled when the featherbone is sewed to it, which gives it an outward spring. The new sleeves are in two pieces, 3 and 4 in the diagram. They are not large, but the fit is very elegant and comes from the curve at the upper outer edge. When desired sprung at the wrist, a row of featherbone sewed along the edge holds it in place, and, in fact, is an addition anyhow. The battlemented, medici and tud'or collars are all made by forming the foundation with buckram and featherbone. This is springy and therefore better than wire. The basque waists will be very popular. They differ from the old style in having the darts higher and the shoulder seams almost reaching the top of the shoulder, and also in the better finish of the inside. This has a great bearing on the perfect fit and beauty of a waist. The back seams are to be laid open and pressed. Then a row of the "boning" featherbone is sewed firmly by machine to the inner side of the darts, reaching from the bottom of the basque to the top. This makes an improvement over the old styles. All the other seams are carefully treated in the ame way, and two rows of featherbone u narrower widths are sewed along the ronts and hold the hooks and eyes. The collar on and sleeves in, the last ooning is done by stitching a row of he ten cord featherbone along the bot- om of the basque or waist. It holds it irmly and solidly in place. Some of the basques are pointed and ome rounded. Some have center back earns, and some have none. A new f any is to have but one dart on the surface if a waist, but there are always two in he lining. It is important that all parts of a basque should be cut evenly, every seam pressed, bound or overcast, feath- erboned stoutly and finally pressed again. If a reliable pattern is used and these directions are followed, the results must 'be satisfactory, and the garment will keep its shape as long as it lasts. OLIVE HARPEE. evening an Indian came upon her lying fast asleep just south of Post Oak creek in an old road known as the Whisky trail. Across her body stood a Newfoundland dog, which had always been her companion about the ranch. The dog was torn and bleeding, and near her 'feet lay the bodies of two wolves. Although her cheeks were stained with tears and covered with dust Bessie was unharmed. She and her protector were taken back to her home, a distance of 12 miles from where they were found, where the dog died of his wounds that night. He was given a decent burial, and Sam Dodge ordered a marble monument, which will be placed at the head of the faithful animal's grave.—New York World. The Toy* Talk of the World. "I should like," said the vase from the china store, * • "To have seen the world a little more. "When they carried me here, I was wrapped up tight, M But they say it is really a lovely sight. 'Yes," said » little plaster bird, 'That is exactly what I have heard. 'There ara thousands of trees, and, oh, what a sight t must be when the candles are all alight I" The fat top rolled on his other side. 'It is not in the least like that," he cK.ed. 'Except myself and the kite and ball, . None of you knows of the world at alL ''There are houses and pavements hard and red, And everything spins around, he said. Sometimes it goes slowly and sometimes fast, And often it stops with a bump at last. The wooden donkey nodded his head. "I had heard the world w.-is like that, he said. The kite and the ball exchanged a smile, But they did not speak. It was not worth while. —Katharine Pyle in St. 1« icholaa. ~~ "~ "SPONGE CAKE. Perfect C»V«, IhUnty, Wholesome, Well Made Md Rightly Baked. Thn dainty wholesomeness of a well made, rightly baked sponge cake is appreciatively mentioned by a writer in Good Housekeeping, who says': To make this cake that which it ought to be—a "solidified mass of foam''—re- quires fhe freshest of eggs, the purest | of sugar and the finest of flour, put together with the most delicate of touches. To fix this foaming mixture, it must be baked in a quick oven. Sponge «die can be made either of a snowy whiteness or a golden yellow. The first is sometimes fancifully called "angel cake" and the latter "sunshine cake." There are a few general rules that must be observed to insure success ia making any and all varieties of sponge cake. The eggs must be fresh and cool, so they can be beaten to a-stiff foam. The sugar must be fine and dry, the flour made light by putting it through a fine sieve oace or twice. The cake must be baked quickly. After the cake is put in the oven the door must not be opened until the cake is set, which will be in from 10 to 15 minutes, and when the pan is turned or moved it muse be done very gently. The cake must not be removed from the pan until cooL If these rules and the directions given in the following recipes are carefully observed, the results will be certain success in the shaps of a perfect sponge cake. Sponge Cake No. 1.—Two even cupfuls of powdered sugar and the yolks of 12 eggs beaten together until very light, then add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, the grated rind of a lemon and the juice of half a one, beating light. Add \y. pints of flour, in which 2 teaspoonfuls" of baking powder has been sifted, stirring only enough to mix the flour. Bake in two square tins. Hot Water Sponge Cake.—In a mixing bowl breiak 4 eggs and beat until frothed, then add 2 cupfulsof sugar and beat well together, then 2 cupfuls of flour, into which has been mixed Zy» teaspoonfuls of baking powder; lastly two-thirds of a cupful of boiling water Bake in two square tins. If desired, the squares can be put together with frost' ing. White Sponge or Angel Cake.—On a large platter beat to a stiff froth or foam the whites of 10 eggs. Add 1>» tuinblerfuls of pulverized sugar. To a tumblerful of fine flour add a heaping teaspoouful of cream of tartar and a small pinch of salt. Sift all twice through a fine sieve. Add to the egg and sugar, stirring lightly. The pan must not be greased. Turn on the sidi to cool when taken from the oven. Tni cake will require something over half an hour to b:ie in a moderate oven. <L HANDSOUB PROMENADE Yl TOILETTE OF CADET-BLUE CLOTH, BRAID -TKIMJIED. «treet toilettes for the Autumn are unpre- ntious yet elegant in effect, the decorations. 1-hout-h simple in design, being arranged mth rich silk braid or cord put on ui. compact .eaauful patterns. A velvet inlay.on collar d Vket-laps » indispensable if one desires be Downed in correct taste, and d the coat s made with cuSs. these, too. are mlwd. When there are no cuffs the sleeves are often j rimmed to simulate cuffs with velvet or the or-id tha,t adorns tba rest of the garment. A ^nd«oaiely shaped skin and a natty jacket orm'a promenade toilette ot irreproachable ECZEMA Mo*t Torturing, Disfiguring, Humiliating Of itching, burning, Weeding, scaly skim and scalp humors is instantly faltered by a warm bath with CBTICCRA. Soxr, a single application of CUTICDRA (ointment), the great skin core, and a full dcwn o£ CCTICURA KKSOLVKNT, greatest of blood purifiers and humor aures. (Dticura KEMEOIBS speedily, permanently, and economically cure, when all else fails. atyle The material is cloth in the neutral cadet-blue tone and inlays of dirk-blue velvet and a braid decoration give the attractive completion. The skirt is a three-piece mode (ttrwfitted over the hips and with the popular fan back. The coat has laps and plaits at the bark, where it is closely fitted, and the front* lap protectively in double-breasted style but are closed in a fly at the left side. The Butterick patterns are coat No. 9407; 9 sizes- bast measures, 30 to 46 inches; any size 30 cents; and skirt No. 9381; 9 sizes; waist measures, 20 to 30 inches; any size, 30 centa. DRESSY FROCK FOR AFTKR" NOOX WEAR. MAOK OK SATIS-FINISH CASHilKRE AND VELVET. THK SKVES GOKE SK1KT CLOSE LAID CUTTING. gowns made on purpose. This is of silk iateen or moreen. The edge at the bot torn, has one row of the wide feather bone, which is quite stiff, though flexible and unbreakable. To this edj?e i lewed a bias flounce, and this; is cordex 'with several rows of featherbone piping oord. In the handsomest oi! these skirts five to ten pipings are sewed in with this cord all up the front and sides; In tho back there is a small bristle of thick featherbone an inch wide, and there we from sis to eight round rings made of hoary f eatherbone in graduated sizes. The petticoat material is sewed around thete to that hollow pipe* are formed the whole length of the dart, and that The Downing of Scotty. When Ballarat, the Victorian gold field, •was in the heyday of its prosper ity, •when men played pitch and toss with sovereigns and lighted their pipft with bank notes, a Scotsman, who was known as nothing else but Scotty, was said to have "struck oil." It was also rumored that he wished to leave the diggings with his pile of gold dust and nuggets without attracting the attention of the bushrangers who infested that part of the country and robbed the unwary. One morning, with his swag on his back and his billy in his hand, Scotty slipped quietly away from the diggings, only to be met by bushrangers, three in number, some two miles from the diggings. He was ''stuck up" and asked to deliver his pile. -Kbis Scotty refused to do, but offered to fight them, "one down another come on.'' The bushran- gers accepted the challenge, and entering into the spirit of the affair one bushranger stepped forward, and the fight began in regular prize ring style. At the end of the first round the bushranger had quite sufficient and retired to allow the second to come forward, but after two ..rounds he was landed and refused to fight. The third bushranger, seeing that Scotty would probably escape, called upon his companions to give what aid they could, and they tackled Scotty. After a ferocious struggle they succeeded in gettin? Kim down, and while one held his feet and another his head the third bushranger quickly ran through Scotty's clothes and after a diligent search discovered sixpence. • "Great Scott!" exclaimed the man, holding Scotty's feet "I£ it had been a Torchlights From Cattails. This is the time of year for torchlight processions. Just now the cattails o;r rushes in the swamps are brown and ripe, ready for the picking. Boys who wish to celebrate any event or to hold a striking initiation in some of their societies should gather a great bundle of the cattails and store them in some dry attic. In a few weeks' time they will have grown almost dry enough to crumble off and flutter away in the wind. Now dip them in kerosene oil, and when the procession is^ ready to start light them all at once. 'They will blaze up quite suddenly and burn for a long time with a bright, flaring light much better than the ordinary tin torches. For a boy's procession there is nothing like them.—Chicago Record. T.ie Cobble Season. The horse chestnut trees are catching it nowadays at the hands of small boys, or rather from stones and clubs impelled from their hands, for the cobble season is at hand. Cobble is a curious game. The horse chestnut is suspended by a string which passes through a gimlet hole and is knotted. One boy holds out his cobble at arm's length, and his opponent whacks it with his cobbla The nut which remains unbroken adds a tally to the other cobble, and when that is smashed it adds two to the successful youth's chestnut. And so it goes on until a peculiarly tough uut may get a record of several hundred.—Worcester Gazette. How Bad It Ached. A dear little boy about 4 years old had the toothache. But he had a great deal of self control Although he was so little, he was a very brave boy. He sat upon mamma's bed, not saying a word, although one could tell by his dismal expression how much he suffered. Mamma was very sorry. "Does your tooth hurt so very much, Earle?'' she asked. "Hurt!" he exclaimed. "You bet it hurts! It just beats tho cars, mamma." —Brooklyn Eagle. A Quaint Bit of Furniture. A quaint bit of furniture for a hous which is a revival of some old style p architecture—the colonial, for instanc —is the great candlestick the like o which was to be found in the hall o our great-grandmothers' homes. It i four or five feet in height and is mad of wood, stained in sealing wax red o a forest green. The stick or pedestal contains a thick candle, which is lighted every night, and near by it, at the turn in the stairs, is a shelf with a motley collection of small candlesticks. The Puritan, in calling attention to this fashion, says: On retiring each person picks up one of these, and lighting it at the big cau- dle takes his or her way to bed. It is a revival of a very pretty custom, and one that has been adopted in many places where electric light or gas is not to be had. Even where these modem illumin:ints are available the great candlestick on the landing of the stairway is a pictursque sight, though it be but for show. (i^@lll®S£Ss3.£s£ EaS!:^£.I An eminently satisfactory material fur wear at almost all times is cashmere, sofu pliable and in the new varieties v.-itl; a lustrous sheen. Fresh weaves appear from time to time, the sort brought fm-wanl this Reason having a gloss and tiiicness iliiu has hitherto been unequalled. In this frock suitable for afternoon wear dark-green vcivci is united with cashmere in a soft miuive '.one. The pliable fabric adapts itself admirably ir, the full pouch fronts above which is a square yoke of velvet. A fanciful air is civen by smaU velvet boleros and frills of the cashmere that start at the boleros and pas? over the shoulders to the back. The frilis increase the stylish breadth that is given by puffs on the close-fitting sleeves. A stock Walnuts In Chicken Salad. English walnuts added to a chicken salad are delightful. Boil halves of the nuts in salted water, or, better still, some of the liquid that the chicken was- cooked in, so long that the brown skin can be easily removed. When they are cold, mix them with the prepared chicken and celery, putting as many in as will suit the taste, and cover wife mayonnaise dressing. Her Pocket. She was aboard a Broadway car thv other day, and it was evident that sh< had lost something- Soon ir wn> plain what the something was—her handkerchief, for she tugged at her belt and hunted up her sleeves and iu bei bodice and in her purse and all the oth er many places in which women are ii the habit of stowing away the article But it was no use. The handkerchie; was not to be found. The interested ear ful, no less than the woman, were jus I resigning themselves to the loss when ; man whose white hairs justified him IL so doing remarked. "Beg pardon, rend am, but have you tried your pockotr "No," cried the woman, and. divini into the folds of her dress skirt, sh> fished forth the handkerchief. 0 course, all the men in the car smiled ii their own superior way, as though i •were the most, amusing thing in tk< world. But there was really nothiuj. funny about it. For so long were womw. deprived of their pocket privileges tha it is but natural that they should uo\\ and then forget that they have been re gtored to them. —New York Sun. The Doll Edna Wantt. Edna wants a baby brother.. She says: "A. baby would be so nice to wheel around in a carriage, mamma. Dolls are always getting broken when the carriage tips over."—Philadelphia Times. Oar Fla* I(> the Clond*. Two Denver boys have lately floated the stars and stripes bf kites a mile above the summit of Pike's peak and coioiug ot-ony » lees, int ami uoo" <• daim that fit is the highest point erer •hilling he would have kUled n« all"; attaiiwd br Old Glory. The DonbU Skirt. . The double skirt is not becoming t< many women- It shortens in appearaiic a figure to which every inch is a d\s tinct advantage, and, worn by a. talle •woman, one gets at first sight the im pression of a schoolgirl who has out grown her petticoats. A skirt that ha a second edition v-hich reaches to jus below or is on a line with the knee will prove decidedly more becoming i double skirts are to become general— Kaw York Post. •*-" How to Cu» Ertry Skin lad Blood Humor," niUHIV CAPrO Fuiled ud Bnndlrd PIMPLY rAbCO CUTICUBA SOAP- AND CELERY SARSAPARILLA COMPOUND. The Best Nerve Tonic Known. "The Greatest Blood Porifier On Earth. It Restore* Strength. Renew* Vitality. Purifle* the Blood. Regulate* the Kidney* Liver and Bowel* PREPARED BY PecK Medicine Co., NEW YORK. N. Y. For.sale by Ben Fiaher, BaBj»hn ft Schneider, W. H. Porter J. F. Coulson, B. F. THE NEW WOMAN OR. »»K««IW« Pennyroyal Pills and belt ol green ribbon and neck and frill* of Mechlin lace five » pretty finish. The ikirt ia five-gored and has the prevailing fan back. Camel's-hair, cheriot, airge and mxny ol th« ooTelty dress goods may be chosen for this costume with a lurety o? satisfaction, a linple ribbon trimming being all that it required to gire s dressj finish The Bucierick pattern is costume -No 33iS; 6 Sizes j ages, 12 to 16 jews, anj size, 35 cenu Hmnced »7 *«• *«•»«•• At Ballarsi a ruined gold miner one* committed suicide in a dramatic manner. During the time of the gold ru»i a certaio deserted claim wa« for years held sacred, and the tool! »trewn about the windlass were left to rust untouched. A party of 'varsity men, old schoolfellows and of gentle birth, bad sunk their shaft there and worked •without success until their money spent One evening one of them at work at the bottom of the «halt sioot- ed, "Haul up, boys, the time is come at'last" They hauled up, and when it came to the top they found their comrade's lifeless body hanging from the chain. He had detached the bucket tied a noose about his neck, tasten«d the noose to tie chain, and wa» h*nt> •d by MB dearest friend*. The party had been, nmch liked and respected by the other miners, who would r«*dlly h&Ye subscribed 1,000 ounce* of goli duat to glT« them a freili rtart, but «re the dawn of the next day the whole party had dlaappeared, l»»Tla« tMr dfeim in th* same state M It lay at the tim* of th* tnfftdy. •__- _._ SAFE, SURE AND RELIABLE Especially recommended^ Married£«diem, Ask your druggiut for P«rrtiTt .£»"F»)* ' "jjj - • o other. They are the only Mia, ,£w. Female ftU- Price, $1.00 j>et by mail upon receipt at prloa. ill orders to advertised agent*. PERBIN MEDICINE CO., NEW VO«* Sold by B. F. Keeellng. BLOOD POISON • 0001 > »*••»•. for proof! ot Wont aMUrniTr——— r? e»c«~ "•**• oi the W«n» ** *»•»• r —• FIELD&FLOWERS ^S^^RSJis^ ,„ §•«""«.«*-£i5^£Sh»^Tj>-;*?fi Even caurrh.tha* dreaded breeder of eoniuraption, •aecnnta to healing laflMDOM of trieOll.
What members have found on this page
Get access to Newspapers.com
- The largest online newspaper archive
- 11,100+ newspapers from the 1700s–2000s
- Millions of additional pages added every month