The Guardian from London, Greater London, England • 379

'Food Rosamund The Fair oxford Numerous pubs and restaurants have located Thames-side in Oxfordshire, attempting to offer the ultimate scenic drinkingeating experience, but canal barge cum restaurant Rosamund The Fair offers a number of views as it cruises around Rosamund sets sail for dinner each evening (apart from Mondays) and for lunch on the weekend. The it's the whole experience that counts. Non-couple mid-week diners may feel they've stumbled across a GroundhogAfolentine's Day, but weekend cruises are better for more platonic meals. Prices aren't overly expensive but cheese-paring sorts might be put off 56 for a three-course, three-hour cruise, antonyjones CastlemillBoatYard, Cardigan Street (Tel: Ivy it might not quite be, but given that there are only 20 seats available, demand is high and booking well in advance is recommended.Themenu changes dailybut dishes such as ravioli with salmon and champagne sauce and sea bream with deep fried leeks make regular appearances. The food is superfine, very unlikely to disappoint (it's also vegetarian friendly), but JEREMY WAYNE returns to old faithfuls sweet dipping sauce; seared tunaisservedwitha -wakameandcucumbersoy dressing.Ostrichredcunyis -astonishingly tender, creamy as a soup and spiced with coriander and lemon cooking, yes, though hardly European and none the worse for that The wine list is of particular interest, with many of the 120 or so eclectic bins bought cool, three-sided bar atClrcus has become something of a Soho institution.

High poXaf Fun, modern, buzzy LowpoIntLapses in concentration from good-looking wait-staff Capacity 140 PrfoeperioadSet two-course lunch menu 10.50; set dinner from 17.50; ale 35 Wlnellrt 14.50 Vogetarianjio Servtoe 7ioMofoInthebar Vaaebrmanr8.5io Style Crisp Mirabelle 56 Curzon St, Wi (Tel 020-7499 4636) Dairy The winning combination of Marco Piene White's White Starownershlp.withhead chef Martin Caws at the credit to chef OlUeCkuOlaud. Asifthiswererrtenough, there's an taagiiiativebut -service Is pofntAU-round gem Law polntPaikingtaChiswick CUwaeltmPrleeper AarwlSet lunch 19.50; set -dinner 23.50; no ale Whwlbt 14.50 Ve4etarimn6ho SarirfcegioJSfuafoNone Value rbrmonojaoio Revivalist Circus Restaurant A Bari Upper James Street, Wt Mon-Frinoon-3pm; Mon-Sat 6pm-midnlght "Cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college educattonreadsoneofthe epigrams which decorate the plain white walls atthts bright and airy west Soho watering hole, in respect perhaps to the advertising and PR types who make up much of Circus' clientele. Richard European" menu gives more than a nod towards theEast Thai fish cakes, crisp, tangy and piping hot, come with a helraertsuresMirabelleis stilloneof Lohdon'smost ccmsistently glamorous, restaurants.Regular overbooWnginvariabry means a pre-prandial stop' atthebar.nohardship when the bails as sumptuous as this one David Collins, don't you know and there's so much going on to watch. A simple and delicious dinner might be baUotine of salmon with herbs, followed by pigeon de Bresse with fole gras, and a souffle of raspberries for pudding. Wines range from modest but drinkable to a Chateau dTfquem 1847 at 30,000.

Service is utterly correct, but at the price of sometimes seeming to border on the cool High point Good-value glamour Lowpolnt Avoid olky weekend crowds Capacity 120 PrfeeperieadSet two-course lunch 16.50; Sunday lunch 19.50; ale 45 WlneUstti6 Vegetarian 610 Berviea 910 Jtfiwolnthebar Valaaibrmoaeygio SfyfeRestrained luxury IdtTromptt5-7 Devonshire Road, W4 (Tel: 020-8747 1836) Mon-Sat 6.30pm-11pm; Sun i2.3opm-3pm, 7pm-iopm Are-visttto the classy Trompette with extremely pleasing tobacco-leather interior confirms my view Poole pedigree suggests, this is one of London's best Considerthis set menu: duck and fole gras terrine with griottine cherries and baked brioche.followed by superbly unctuous seven hour-cooked shoulder of lamb with chick peas.baby artichokes and salsa verde. For puddlng.a perfect raspberry and fromage blanctartThen consider hard put to find a better value or more beautifully served lunch in town all The Guide 33 Asa 30-Aprs2002.