The Honolulu Advertiser from Honolulu, Hawaii • 6

4 fcU WANT AD SERVin? CMM 231 17. 194 THE HONOLULU ADVERTISER MONDAY MORNING. FEBRUARY SIX MD RN THE fashions A A i Jll hJ i A ii A 1 BRIDGE i DLri 1 I Classic Or Torso-Style Sweaters Smart; This Realm of Ours Inverted-Bicycle Exercise Good For Muscles-Add Slimming Routine To Good Looks Program Designers Remember Accent On America By NAOMI BENYAS Feminine eyes are focused today on the truth about the "average" miss, and many of those eyes are wet. The streamlines of "Miss America" aren't Holly woodish nor impractical. They are simply founded on the shopping records, and ghopping records don't lie.

No swollen head for the "average" gal. Her curly locks should fit comfortably in a size 214 although she can sneak by if she takes a size 22. Actually these statistics aren't too perfect since the modern hats as the gentlemen "BP will gladly tell you are mostly bits of impractical froufrou. Milady "usually" confines those curves with a size 34 brassiere, size 28 girdle and a 9 (f v. Ai By LOIS LEEDS Hollywood.

It is a gocl idea just now to add a special hip slimming routine to your good looks program. If the measurement is only half an inch out of the way, so much the better, but don't neglect it. Unless you are an active sportswoman the chances are that the half inch will grow before Summer if you do not get rid' of it without delay. Old Standby You do not need any new or elaborate routine. The old standby the inverted bicycle exercise is as effective today as it always was and it can be varied to suit your muscular strength.

Vicki Vola, of radio's "Mr. District Attorney," recommends an out-of-the-ordinary way of doing it. After hoisting her hips off the floor and bracing her body with her hands at the back of her waistline, Vicki doubles up her legs so that her knees hang about a foot above her forehead. She points her toes so that the soles are vertical. From this position she straightens one leg until the toe touches the floor beyond her head.

As she bends this leg again she straightens the other. Skin Protection Remember to put a thick rug or an exercise pad under you while doing the inverted bicycle and similar floor movements. Ordinary carpets do not give enough protection to the weight-bearing parts of your body. Bruises on back of shoulders and arms may result and they will not look pretty with your evening dresses, not to mention possible soreness. To tret the maximum benefit 1 i Posed by Vicki Vola for Lois Leeds The inverted-bicycle exercise routine is still as good as any invented for exercising every muscle of the body, and it does not require any special apparatus.

from your exercise combine it fr 1 fv foi hp 1 Linn? Answer Brisk exercise with dumbells (or other similar objects) held in the hands would be helpful. Start with dumb' bells on shoulders. Shoot arms straight up, then down to shoulder; out sideways, back to shoulder; front, back to shoulder. Now make diagonal thrusts. Do this for five minutes night and morning.

with an air natn. uive me SKin of your body a chance to breathe. You won't feel too chilly if you begin your exercise period with a few minutes of vigorous arm swinging to stimulate full breathing. Don't try this, ol course, when you are physically below par. Cool air (and water) are tonic when the system is strong enough to react with a warm glow.

Today's Beauty Questions my hips? I'm 16. A FRIEND. Answer You need a general exercises to give you a well- proportioned figure. Any sport that makes you use your legs and breathe deeply will help. If you play enough active indoor games you won't need special indoor exercises.

However, you might try these two: (1) high kicking for 10 minutes a day, resting between every half dozen kicks. (2) Arm movements of the hreastroke in swimming. Go gay In this snappy box coat sweater of dark blue with sleeves and pockets in wide stripes of white, red and lighter blue, or show your originality by your selection of colors. Miss Bent as size 36 corselette. Her dresses are usually size 16.

Older women, however, take, on the average, a 38. Though this doesn't go for Hawaii, 80 per cent of dresses sold, the reports prove, are in navy, black and gray. Correct figure measurements for this size 16 frock are, busts, 34; waist, 28, and hips 37, inches, of course. For the 38 sized women, bust 38, waist 32 and hips 41. The 34-36 sizes are the best sellers in blouses for women and misses with the 36 size pretty much in the lead.

Young misses usually snap up the 12's and 14'3. That wasp waist is taken care of for the average girl by a size 16 belt which outsells all other sizes by a margin of 2 to 1, with the exception of the size 14. The modern girl is no Cinderella, the boot and shoe manufacturers have statistically agreed. On the contrary. Most of the maids have to squeeze into a size 6 B.

In many of the sections of the country, however, the manufacturers have admitted that the women take a much larger size. Most popular stocking size is the 9l2 with three thread knit leading in sales, 43 gauge machines. Next largest seller is the 42 gauge, three thread. Third largest seller is the 42 gauge, four thread construction. Combined sale of the three account for 60 per cent of all women's full fashioned hose.

Standard glove size is the 6Y2. Ring fingers that are fitted to the majority of the glittering nonsense are 54 and 5. Most popular bracelet size is 7 inches, while the best selling number in wrist watch strap lengths is 54 inches. Leading in bathing suit purchases are the misses' size 34 and the women's size 38. According to one authority, the popularity of the size 34 is that women resent being accused of being a 36 and consequently squeeze into the smaller numbered size.

Lingerie statistics reveal all about the feminine under- trimmin's slips are sold out in size 36 nighties, 38 panties and bloomers (they do wear size 7, although size 6 does quite all right, too. Life Insurance graphs show that the average height of women with shoes is 5 feet 4 inches at full growth. Other material states that the height of women is "increasing" but safely stays out of any real commitment. The increase, says the data, appears to be among certain favorably situated groups, such as college women. The maid of today ehows a decline in average weight, a condition, the medicos beam, that augurs well for future health.

The trend is partly attributed to popular health education, an awareness of the dangers of avoirdupois and an admiration of the scrawnily lovely movie stars. If you're trying to determine these dress sizes in terms of 34, 37, the bureau of standards has identified them so 12 14 16 18 20 30 32 34 36 38 The weight-size chart that follows is as close as can be determined, worked out by the health service authority. For size 12, 105-115 pounds; for the size 14, around 120-124 pounds; size 16, 135-138 pounds; for the 18 size, around 145 pounds and size 20 begins to conceal 160 pounds of beauty. All this while a WPA project is going on, a project with a feminine angle or curve. Some 100,000 women are being measured to determine the exact shapes that dress manufacturers are- trying to fit.

When the 100,000 contours have been recorded, it is hoped that ready-to-wear clothes will really be ready-to-wear. In Pageant By ELEANOR GUNN NEW YORK If our native designers do not make fashion his f. -tf-o! a Dear Miss Leeds Please sug tory, it won't be because they have lacked encouragement or Dear Miss Leeds How can I increase my bust measure and at same time lose weight around gest an exercise for reducing up per arms. inspiration. Since the occupation of Paris the fashion center of the world has shifted.

Mayor La-Ciuardia has given his whole iraL TO S(0)RI hearted cooperation to the efforts of the New York fashion designers and manufacturers to period, the era of crinoline and the hoop skirt, the Shakers and the Quakers, the age of lVus. Bloomer, the pannier-and-bustle period, the Gay Nineties, the Gibson girl, the Spanish-American War, the Flapper age as well as costumes from all of the largest Indian tribes Seminole, Navajo, Apache, Timi, Hopi, Cheyenne and Seminole. About the same time the Mu seum of Costume Art held a prize winning contest for the best textile designs. The winning design was inspired by X-ray views of flowers and was called Fluoro-scope Florescence. The design as well as the idea back of it showed great originality on the part the prize winner, Mrs.

Simone Heisterman. Textile design is a interesting field and one that is worthy of the attention of any man or woman of crea tive ability. (Distributed by United Feature Syndicate, establish the fashion center in that city. Los Angeles, spurred to competitive activity, is going to stage a fashion show in order to establish its supremacy and so it eoes. TO The TraDhaean School of Fashion, always intent on foster by PRISCILLA WAYNE Dtatr.

to tlniua Fotaic Syndicate, Inc. ing native talent, staged a Pan-American costume revue and at which Miss Traphagan told her son, tne girl temperature naa gone up again. audience that America oi-fered a rich field for the American designer and showed costumes ranging all the way from However, not even flu colds can keep healthy young girls in bed forever. Rosalou was up in She was right. He touched her hot cheek.

"I I'm sorry, Rosie. I guess I made kind of a mess of things last night." She smiled wanly. "It's all right. I feel just as I said last night. I I hadn't any business Pocahontas through the Empire period, the covered wagon a few days, and was planning to go back to work the next day.

It was that evening that Hugh McMast'ers dropped in shortly going to that party. You won't faCULBERTSON before dinner. need to worry any more. I'll not see Jerry Thomas again. "You're just in time for dinner," Tom Blake told the young Tom Blake came out of the room feeling happier.

"Maybe it wasn't such a bad idea, after all, North East 2 diamonds Past 2 spades er man. "Mary here has cooked corned beef and cabbage, though I don't reckon a young fellow like you cares much for that Rosalou Blake, factory girl, and Jerry Thomas, dance-hall singer, fall In love, but her parents disapprove of Jerry and cause a misunderstanding between them. When Hugh Mc-Masters, a supervisor at the factory, proposes to her, her parents urge her to accept him, but she refuses. Meanwhile, Jerry has been given a radio contract. Hoping that his success may help him to win Rosalou, he starts taking her out again but, when she meets some of his smart new friends, she feels shabby and out of place.

In particular, the beautiful Constance Garvely treats her with contempt and tries to take Jerry away from her. At a party given by Constance, she is snubbed and has a very unhappy time. She has lied to her parents, but her father learns she's out with Jerry, traces her to the party and angrily takes her home. When Jerry follows them, she tells Wert Pass Past Pass Sooth 1 spade 2 heart! Fas kind of fodder." Local Artist at Work "Don't though!" Hugh said. Irma Silva, who will take part in the Hawaiian pageant to "be given by the Betty Lei studio at the new studio on Lewers road Thursday and Friday evenings at 8.

Court scenes from the legend, "Kelea," ancient Hawaiian marriage ceremony, will be presented. going after her last night," he said to his wife. "Seems to have taught her a lesson. I think she sees things our way now." But Mary wasn't so sure. Rosalou stayed in bed for several days but even after her fever was gone, she remained spiritless and wan.

"You must remember that she had that accident a whUe back," "And I don't mind telling you that I rather hoped you'd ask me to stay. After dinner, I've got something to tell you. xi was a jony meal, it was nice to have Rosalou down with the family again, and Hugh was gooct company. Tom liked him the doctor told Mary. "She hasn't completely recovered from the effects of that, and flu colds are very much, and the boys adored him.

After dinner, he waited until Mary had put Al and Bert to bed mignty weakening to the sys Mrs. Ashton Are Sailing Soon Mr. and Mrs. Courtland E. Ashton of Waialua are sailing for tem.

Don't worry she getting Deiore telling his news. along au right." South made his two spade cos-tract on this hand and, as it turned out, two spades was the only contract North-South could hope to make. West opened the club jack. East played the queen and South took the ace. South took two high hearts, and ruffed a small heart with the five ot spades in dummy.

Then he ran three high diamonds from dummy, discarding a low club on the third. This trick West trumped- with the spade ten. The contract could have gone down, one, if West had led a low club, putting East in for a trump lead, but West led the jack of hearts, and dummy's nine of spades was put ei forcing out East's spade king. Aftel that, the defenders could win only, their club trick and West's two high spades, giving them five tricks in alL Just the same, Mary was al Then, he announced proudly most glad when the note from i Demg transferred to the Chicago mill am scheduled to the Philippines on the President Jerry came. It came with a huge him that her father is right that she doesn't belong in his new circle of sophisticated friends and that she doesn't want to see him again.

CHAPTER XXI Rosalou was ill the next day. Her mother, pattering into her room in the early morning, found the girl burning with fever. "You've caught a terrible Taft February 26, to make their oox of American Beauty roses. leave here in about two weeks It- ff r' X1 I home at 'Manapla, Occidental Mary pretended to be busy at ine promotion is wonderful. I'll a table across the room when De third charge there." Negros.

Mr. Ashton has accepted a ne glanced over at Rosa- Rosalou, with trembling fingers, opened the box. Mary guessed that it was from Jerry, because iuu, sne sensed what was com ing. cold," Mary Blake scolded, want shook his hand cordially ICopyrigUt: 1941: By Ely CultierUon.l Today Mr. Culbertson begins a series of articles en the new 19il Culbertson system of bidding, which toiU be officially published March X.

In building the Culbertson system of bidding I always have tried to take the mental processes by which master players bid, and express them in terms which aU players can understand and use. For six years the minimum biddable suit in the Culbertson system has been Q-J-x-x or better. All experts occasionally bid on weaker suits. Not long ago I polled a number of expert players. All of them said: "I don't like to bid on less than Q-J-x-x, but I bid a suit as weak as Q-x-x-x if I have to." Now, an expert may know "when he has to bid a weak suit," but the average player does not know.

My job is to tell him. This problem has been solved In the 1941 simplified Culbertson system, by the following rule: You may open the bidding in a suit as weak as Q-x-x-x, K-x-x-x or A-x-x-x only when your hand contains another biddable suit as well; or when your hand has more than the minimum number of honor tricks usually required for an opening bid. In today's hand South was correct in bidding his weak spade suit originally, because he also had another biddable suit hearts in his hand. South's advantage in bidding one spade, rather than one heart, was this: After the two diamond response by North, which he feared, he was able to bid two hearts and give North a choice of two suits, both at the level of two. If South first had bid one heart, and then two spades, North might have been forced to three hearts if he had held greater length in hearts than in spades.

A two no trump rebid by South would have been dangerous, as it would have shown a strong hand and encouraged North to go on to game. NORTH A952 V8 4 AKQ76 an oiiermg from Hugh a lovely quilted silk dressing gown had come that morning. congratulations! I like to see a young fellow getting ahead. You ing to pet instead of scold, but aot knowing exactly how. "These silly modern evening dresses! But they're pretty.

I don't blame Rosalou tore open Jerry's note. ueserve this, Hugh!" quickly read it. you for, buying one, honey. You in a way, I'm sorry," Hugh said slowly, still looking at Rosalou. "I don't mean about mov needed an evening dress.

Rosalou turned her face. to the wall so that Mary wouldn't see Dearest, I love you. Won't you please telephone or write me? I am so unhappy, and love you somuch. I must see you. Jerry.

His fervency touched Rosalou's ing. The Chicago mill is much larger than the one here, and I hope to be in charge there some1 the tears in her eyes. She didn't I'; I want to hear that note of sym pathy in her mother's voice. Ethel Chun, local water color artist, who is shown blockinj in a scene. She finished her training here at the University of Hawaii and later continued on the Mainland, studying with Mil-lard Sheets at Chouinard School of Design.

Los Angeles. Tom Blak, insisted that Mary heart, but did not affect her deci xnai well, I hate to leave Rosalou without having olngS tsuettled- I'd I'd rathe? give up the promotion than than He stopped. call the doctor. He was suffer ing from remorse this morning, released against contrasting superintendent's position at the North Negros Sugar company at Manapla. He has been associated with the Waialua Agricultural company for years.

Many social courtesies have been given in their honor. The Rev. Alfred L. Griffiths, Mrs. Griffiths and daughter, Katharine, were passengers on the President Madison Saturday, returning to their home at Bal- balasang, Kalinga, Philippines Islands after a furlough in the East.

They made their home at Brookline, Massachusetts. Mr. Griffiths gave lectures on work of the Episcopal church in the Philippines in Eastern cities and also attended the general convention. Mrs. Griffiths, who made her home in Honolulu for a number of years, is the former Miss Elizabeth Ernestine Coles, sister of Mrs.

Graham W. Tewks-bury of Waialua. Red Cross Drive Mrs. Abner T. Longley heads the Red Cross roll call which be regretting his hasty action of the somehow, it sppm in Association Of Artists dark volcanic snore line.

night before. Tom was like that hathe liked him more that he acted first and thought sec ond. Tomorroiv's Hand South, dealer. North-South vulnerable. NORTH A 10 9 4 V976 4 10 8 10 4 WEST EAST A A 3 2 10 5 A 4 A976SS; A96S A A 8 2 SOUTH A A 6 5 2 VQ 8 4 4K5 7 For invitations and bulletins concerning the jury show to be sion.

She had made up her mind. Her mother turned from the table. "My! Those are the prettiest roses I ever saw!" "Put them downstairs in the living room," Rosalou said. "I want aU of you to enjov Mary obeyed. She knew that this was her daughter's way of getting the flowers where sight of them would not remind her of Jerry.

After her mother had left the sponsored at the Honolulu Acad When the doctor came, he said there was nothing wrong with Rosalou except a severe cold. emy of Arts by the Association of Honolulu Artists, telephone "Keep her in bed, Mrs. Blake These flu colds are treachrous Mrs. Charles A. Gregory.

She oueht to stay home from Artists from the Army and Navy communities are invited to work for two or three days." Ethel Chun, one of Honolulu's promising native born artists, works in water color but sometimes paints in oil and tempera. Miss Chun finished her training at the University of Hawaii and later continued at Chouinard's Schoolof Los Angeles, studying with Millard Sheets. She works as a textile designer and her patterns are printed on the Mainland and then made up into attractive sport and room, Kosalou climbed out of Rosalou allowed her mother to fuss over her for a while, then conxriDuxe worKs to the jury show. Each exhibitor is allowed two pictures and any amount of bed, slipped into the quilted robe, and went over to her desk. closed her eyes.

She pretended sculpture. All entries must have lan sne nad ever Kk hjm before. He suddenly seemed outeoafnherdlifed ging that she scarcely recognized as maybC things Could hT Maimed eagerly I well, I thought if you would go along, it would be the most wonderful thing that thouht Ifd an7weVred ISngj? HUgV' She Suddenly, the way seemed very clear to her. Marry Hugh and go to Chicago. Away from au this, away from Jerry Thomas, maybe she could forget.

(Tho chracters in this serial are fictitious.) Her note to Jerry was very that she was asieep, nopmg xnai 9 6 2 Marr would go upioemg away. been done within the last five years. Signatures on pictures WEST Hnwever. the latter was not thil should be covered by card on Mr. Culbertson will discuss hand in tomorrow's column.

fooled. "You're not asleep, Tjei she said, presently. "And beach models. Miss Chun has sticKers until after the jury has EAST 6 4 VQ 5 3 4 8 5 4 7 A A 10 yJ92 4 10 3 A 10 8 8 Dnei; Thank you for the lovely flowers, but please don't send any more. Our friendship has been a mistake.

I meant exactly what I said the other night. Please don't try to see me again. gins March 3 to 8 at Wahiawa. T.Irs. Heaton L.

Wrenn is general chairman of the drive. Dad wants to come in and talk to you a minute." 'nor was nothing Rosalou SOUTH Write your bridge troubles and problems to Ely Culbertson, care of this paper, inclosing a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Ecuador is protecting its domestic industries. swift, sure strokes that are strong. Her pictures are well composed, rich in tonal values and her colors are brilliant and transparent.

Her favorite compositions are marines that teem with action and color and she is ''nterested in flying spray that is made the selections. Judges of the commercial prize jury are Mrs. Livingston Jenks. Mr. Robert Allerton, member of the board of directors of the Chicago Art Institute, and Mr.

John Gregg, architect from Chicago. could do but consent. She knew that her father would be in a dif just mat. But when Marv AQ 8 73 10 6 AA 5 I came back into the room, she 1 A. ferent mOOd tniS lUUUUg-WUUiU iouna mai, ior no apparent rea Jarjanese are starting highway bus services in China.

be apologeuc iu '-3JT i llf IT.