The Observer from London, Greater London, England • 40

40 THE OBSERVER REVIEW, MARCH 197 Iceland 24 Take your car to the sun without driving there. AlTyou have to do is get to Southampton. And what could be easier than that? From there, Eagle and Panther sail away to sunshine countries, where you re free to explore the i tSCJ TVfW delights 01 bpain, S.W. Krgflce, Portugal and Morocco, without having to drive half way across Europe to set there. DEVON is eerily 'deserted.

Just over the border- the familiar thatched, cream-tea cottage is hrmly -shuttered against the sun. I feel For moreinformation, rejected no sell-indulgent feasting at this obligatory talk to your travel agent family stopping point where all true Devon odysseys begin. ANTHONY f.VCCVr That notorious holiday peril. The promise of freedom on Dartmoor from Hound Tor, the Exeter by-pass. undulates Or Send US the COUpOn.

Panther to San Schastian. Eagle; to Lisbon, Algeciras, Tangier I Please send me your brochure. i To: Southern Ferries, PO Box 2,03 House, I Central Way, Feltham. Middlesex TWU OTG. I Name li I emptily through a pristine landscape of dimpled lielcjs and thick copses that go unnoticed among midsummer fumes.

Cieared of Right away from the main tourist flow, Iceland will constantly fascinate you with tile unexpected. Iceland is a land of extremes.Of glaciers and hot springs. Of darkness lit by the Northern Lights. Or the endless daylight of the Arctic summer. British Airways, with LWddirIcelandair, offers you a daily service from London to Reykjavik-with some twice-daily flights.

Some very different holidays await you in Iceland. Rom fly-fishing to fly drive. Our brochure will tell you alL cars, caravans and other human clutter, it reverts to the wide country lane it in fact is. Address Even out of season the countryside that somnolent effect that 'sends you 132 Southern Ferries straight off to sleep: on. summer afternoons.

After" a plough APErOComDany man's lunch of cheese, sharp Dickied onions and beer. I doze I Helping you find what you're looking for in the mild sunshine outside the creeper-clad Mason's Arms at slightly "lost in Dai-" moor divides those who stand its edges and stare and thoe who are lured in by its promse bit freedom. It's comforting to knov.in these inflationary days its fringes you can still find bw, breakfast and cVnner is adeqwte farmhouse accommodation -for around 3 a night. Devon is full of gentlemanly drop-outs. am sure the pro- prietor of one inn told ma he had just retired from a lifethe of burning old bank nous the Bank of England.

I certainly met an ex-managing director, now running an elegant -Queen Anne country house in 27 tuper acres. A Time- OH leaflet giving information on L'Jvpn and details hotel and restaurants Is avallifcte frea to readers. Please send a stamped and addressed. foolscap Envelope to Time OH (Devon), Tha Observer, 160 Queen Victoria Street. London EC4V 4DA.

Next woek Cornwall. time of year. mystifying note pinned to a level-crossing gate says: 'The; Dart Valley Apple Co. will be selling apples from the apple coach at Staverton Station, -not Buckfastleigh, due to At the engaging Sea Trout I try Devon Queens tiny, succulent scallops served with cHsp chips, the more-ish kind you find in France. The transition from Devon's civilised charms to the rough, moorland infinities of Dartmoor is abrupt and startling.

Conspiratorial knots of wild ponies stand steaming, huddled, together like anarchist plotters; they move guiltily apart as I pass; One day last summer, when Dartmoor's roads were" jammed, I left the back door of the farmhouse in which I stayed and walked straight out on to the moors. It was similar then. Halfway through the morning I met a man with compass and map who asked me the way to. prehistoric Grimspound with the same deference as a tourist airways LOFTLEtOIR 9rJ impassable for coaches and hotels' are happily few. It is a coast edged with secluded bays, noble cliffs, long beaches, treasure troves of secret eddying pools set among slippery outcrops of black, rock; salt-licked estuaries that sweep the tang of the sea deep into Devon's red, rolling farmlands.

Like so much of Devon's coast, north or south, this must be explored on foot. So I shut the car door and take to the cliff tops once This time it is from Boh Head io Bolt Tail. I walk across prickly gorse, springy heather and yellowing bracken, the wind singing in my ears and the colours subtly changing as sun and shadow scud across the blue-grey sea, race up the tall cliffs and glide over fields to the moors rising far behind. Sand glints some 400 feet beloW. it Soar Mill Cove? Swimming is safe at Hope Cove, but beyond wrecker reefs and rocks have taken their deadly toll in days 'gone by.

It is an exhilarating ramble, best timed to finish with one of those reviving cream teas at Hope Gove. I stay at Thurlestohe, a sleepy thatched village where the church clock' stands permanently at 1,17 and ferry times are posted up in the' porch. Cunningly grafted on to the back.of a genuine old inn' with eleventh-century beams is the. modern Hotel, whose impressive range of facilities has one of Britain's most southerly saunas. 'bump Mr Burgoyne (85), a nurseryman, who before he sells you plants will consult his encyclopaedic wall map to make quite sure they will grow in your part of the world; Hull, it seems, has problems.

The weather changes, reluctantly I head away from the sea. The tight knot of true country lanes that wind beneath Dartmoor are rarelj crowded at any ym y. British Michelin revived iiransconibe. With supreme effort I take the well-trodden clifftop path across to Beer. It is silent and solitary.

There is no wind, gulls glidi; without a cry and the hazy silhouette of a distant ship slides and noiselessly along the horizon. Beer is a 'cheerful little spre'adeitgled fishing boats, odd lobster pi jts, last summer's buckets and spades gathering dust in a shop i window, ft has a faintly nostalgic, old-fashioned air. Long before it became a village presort, the respectable ladies' of Beer made lace for Queen Victoria's wed-, ding dress. My idle reverie im time past is broken by a man in big boots and blue sweater crunching a small boat across tile pebbles of the sheltered cove. A slight breeze stirs the salty air.

It has been a marvellous ifternoon. Hard to believe that Devon, with Cornwall, is b.v far Britain's most popular holiday area, chock-a-block in suknmer. Late autumn finds much, of the coast notably-deserted. Tijrquay is still going strong, like a slcittish dowager who continues rdancing long after the- other have. left.

Beyond Dartmouthi in that area known as the Sodth a mantle of peace descends. Even in summer, this is 'Devon's least crowded coast, for the wandering web of sunken couittry lanes are This summer you can choose from the widest range Qf holidays we've ever offered at truly competitive tfctes. Prices begin at 38 for an all-inclusive one-week holiday (subject to currency And there are direct jet flights from London, Manchester and Glasgow. Some holidays have no currency surcharge. '5' gude for the motorist, the 478 pages 'of this new edition include colour maps, town guides and a four-language introduction to such quaint customs as licensing laws.

In charge of a dozen, bilingual British inspectors (1,950 applied for jobs) is Dupont (anonymity in the democratic Michelin empire is relentless), a bachelor, who was wearing a natty bow tie and recherche grey silk socks at the launching. As for. the' christening party: it certainly merited a star for catering (the snacks were PRO-dellcious and the Macon' superior), but the ambience of the Michelin emporium could be rated only adequate and the Distractions disappointing. Micftcim Guide to Great Britain and Northern Ireland 12; Michelin Greater London Guide, available separately at SOp. Helen Dawson THE MICHELIN GUIDE, 1974, to, Great Britain and Ireland was officially launched on Friday in iFulham, accompanied by peevish bleats from the Egon Ronay and Good Food guides.

There's a general misconception that Michelin, in awarding only 25 one-stars to 2,330 tested hotels and 981 restaurants In Great Britain, has been hypercritical. But when the guide started in Germany and Italy, it awarded no stars at all: and under the exacting, eccentric Michelin criteria no establishment, the first time around, can earn more Ithan one rosette. Except that isn't -the first British -Michelin. That was launched in 1911 and packed up in 1931; it was acknowledged then as the motorist's vade me cum, and was Even now Michelin, for ail its chic, doesn't pretend to be a gourmet's bible; essentially it's a 22 to46'day holidays A relaxing voyage with Union-CastleSaf marine provides the perfect prelude-to oil the rich excitement' of' on African tour. Youll arrive in just the right frame of mind to enjoy to the full the great sightseeing attractions of southern and easfArnca-the big gome parks, the spectacular scenery andthe fascinating dries.

When the tour is over, you still have the pleasure-filled voyaae home 11 to32 day holidays Combine all the varied pleasures of a stay in one of these delightful islands with all the luxury of an ocean voyage with Union-CastleSafmarine-fora really splendid holiday experience. The uniquely' fascinating the Canary Islands or beautiful, flover-dedted Madeira-wherever you choose to go youll be assured of comfortable good living in top. hotels booked for you in advanced You can. if you wish, combine sea Sun Dance in Morocco at Easter. to look forward to or you con fly book with scheduled air travel to save a little it you prefer, by scheduled air services.

.2 Prices.fully inclusive of travel .1 holiday by travelling both ways with' Iikit, Union-Castle. Fully inclusive prices Morocco itf-beautiful at Easter. The sun is 'warm and FLAIRHICKIE BORMAN im 104 New Bond Street, London W1Y0AE InI Telephone 01-493 8494 lull Sea your A.B.T.A. Travel Agent. A Trust House Forte Company.

and days. bright but not uncomfortably The air is. fresh and crisp. start at 205. Ask tor ourlslbnd Holidays' Choose from sixteen magnificent holidays in our 'African Holidays' brochure.

And thousands of exotic flowers axe bursting into life. JCPAL" IgMTTX brochure. At Sun Dance Village we provide everything the individual needs, to enjoy Morocco, without resorting to a package tour. The atmosphere is unorganised and informal. You have your own air-conditioned chalet (complete with 3 H00Sm we can take you down to Fez or over the High Atlas mountains to Marrakesh and the very edge of the Sahara.

During the Easter period, prices are 88 for one week and 119 for two weeks. That includes three extremely good meals a day (with free wine), a scheduled jet flight and insurance. For more information, telephone 01-730 5287 (24 hours) or write directly, to Sun Dance Moroccan Holidays Ltd, Dept OB243, 75B Ebury Street, London SW1. Members of the Association of British Travel Agents. shower and W.C.) in a green eucalyptus grove, close to the beach.

In the village we have our own swimming pool, Sorina lovers discotheque arid restaurant. Close at hand you will hnd sailing (in bur own yachts), surfing, riding, water-skiing, golf and tennis. And if you want to see a little of Morocco, 4 In Ia nAitiMMvJr Nile Cruise 305 JT Peoplewholovethe magic of Spring-find it most potent in Denmark. Take a British Airways or AS holiday and burst into life. Starring at 48 for a weekend in the cosmopolitan sparkle of Copenhagen, there are plenty of Spring Breaks to choose from.

Lilac time, lakes, sandy beaches, villages and countryside Ceylon India Thailand Nepal 396 This fucfnarins tour, which bur Tour Man-er throughout, makes stsht-eein visits io CEYLON. INDIA. THAILAND. NEPAL, AFGHANISTAN and PAKISTAN In a leisurely tour of maximum mterCM. 19 days.

FULLY inclusive. Egypt 154 Enjoy the sunshine and sightseeing o( Ancient Egyjii and the NILE at the remarkably low price of 154 toe our IJ-Jay ESCORTED See Uie PYRAMIDS and SPHINX at CAIRO: the romsnuc VALLEY ot Ihc KINGS al WESTERN THEBES and, the ancient Granite Quarries in ASWAN. Regular departures South America (S4S rhe splendour and richness of the South American' scene defy comparison MACHU PICCHU and Ihc mairnilicciit IGUASSU FALLS are iust two or ilic tnariv wonders we on Ihii Zl-day ESCORTh'D tour, visiting ECUADOR. PERU. BOLIVIA.

ARGENTINA and BRAZIL. Regular de-. pariurea. Travel by Air France. 300 MILES UP THE Cruise throufh ihc Land of the PHARAOHS from Ibe PYRAMIDS and SPHINX C1ZA lo Uie TOMB of.

TUTANKHAMUN in far-away ANCIENT THEUES FULLY Inclustvr, 21 days. 305. Departures In May. October and November. 1974.

dappled with bloom-irs all in the brochures. iraicj ay uuav. i i tree colour brochures of alt these tours are available al your local travel agent BALES TOURS, 16 Coventry Street, London, W.l. Tel: 01-437 7992. ATOL 365 AB.

tiscover for your next holiday SWANS HELLENIC CRUISES fiA 3V; DanUh Tbnrist Board, 169173 itaffant Stnst, London Win SPY. Plena land mo tno.TREE biochuaa with holiday plans, occ the anchaeolaBhail and architectural All cruises in connection with (he For our 2Ut year ol Hellenic CraJsin you fly from London io'-Ycnice, Naples. Dutrov-nik-ar Athens cruise and return from one of these Dorts. Five cniUca in, AprilJune. Three in AugustSeptember.

Prices range from to 475 irusicrplcOES of ancient ciTilisationa. Enjoy ihc pleasures of cruJslns to tnem on a well-found Aio. lo GREECE. TlTlt KEY SICILY, CYPRUS, MIDDLE EAST. NORTH AFRICA, aions arc made ten times more fascinauns by an ouuiandins team at Historical arehacolofiical, clissfcal and botanical experts including Sir Mortimer he tier.

Sir OBSD ineiaatas snore turiin BLACK SEA John Woifcnuen and others. SWANS ART TREASURES TOURS Austria's variety show Come to the Tyrol'and see. how much you can do in one holiday. Swim, in a lake. Fly, a glider.

Hire a boat Hear Tyrolean music In a night dub. Wander round a castle. Do all of it In the sun remember the Tyrol is just north of Italy. And do ail of it cheaply. Austna is the land of high mountaihs.and low; prices.

For more Information, Just contact your travel agent or The Austrian National Tourist Office. Tyrol Department, 16 Conduit Street, London 1 OAs- or 19 Mosley Arcade, Piccadilly Plaza, Manchester, 1 4AF. foccinllsed nrrsonal knowledge oj the counlriex vlstiea. Encft tour is eccompanlrd by an exvert Guest heciurer with SICILY "Morva. Mareala.

Including Palermo Monrealc, Sejrcsta. Erice, Plizza Aimer in a. PORTUGAL tncludlnx Viseu, CoLmbra. Obildos, Mafra, Lisbon. Evora, Qucluz, tntr.

Tomar. Batalha. -Faiima, Guhnaraes, BraRa Sclinunic Eradca finc. Afjiaento GcLa, Syracuse. Nolo.

Palazzo Acticdc. Taorraina, Mctsina. Tindarf, IF IT WAS GOOD ENOUGH FOR NAPOLEON AND JOSEPHINE IT MIGHT JUST SUIT YOU Cefalu. Imcra, Solunto. nrPARTiJRESi Anr.

JS: Oct. 8. 15 dan zr DEPARTURES 5 Mar 19? Sept 22 15 dflj? X26S vre naTe 28 Art Tressurcs Tonri to different irts ot toe world biclndiiife Enrope Central and Santa America, arti to East Africa and 660-mile NUe Cruises. Brodrarrf iivaUable. iMona una.

miaaic tasi ma rzr kmsk. a. ho W. F. R.

SWAN (HELLENIC) LTD. A.Sto'Ttb. NAME CORSICA Is without doubt the most fascinating and romantic island oS the. French coast, Wonderful seascapes contrast with mountain scenery and on the whole ADDRESS holiday ThoFtveslar Italian Holiday schema has been planned specially for those seeking the best. Thirteen of Italy's best Hotels (situated in the most fashionable resorts away from the crowds, ot.ering superb food, secluded beaches and personalized service.

Is this the holiday you are looking for? ylbanoTerme TheltallanTonlc Relax, become healthier and more beautiful visit the unique Italian Health resort of Aba no Terme You will return horns with a greater JoVa of life Please write or phone for free brochures. CIT 10 Charles II Street London S.W 1 01-930-6722-" ATOL 285 BCD the island has escaped over development. We offer vau a reallv bin choice PORTO POLLO last year's undisputed favourite with our clients and Whatever you want, we've got it The Tyrol NEW HOLIDAY IDEAS IN BRITAIN Miss Eroa Low. known for her original holiday apotoadi ijvrites Drofessianal people from- Britain and abroad to join her in a. new enterprise a culmral holiday interest ins company.

This will take place in a superbly situated and most tastefully furntsbed country mansion, formerly a nobleman's statdy heme, standing in a beautiful park setuna near Windsor (one hour from London and Oxford), from Auk. 3-31 A sJimalaLiog ccllurnl and triune progtamme will add interest to the holiday; there also tennis, goll. riding and peace for those Who want to foKow their own pursuits or studies. Eton Windsor Castle, the Limous SaviU Gardens and the Safari Park are within easy visiting distance. One week yfaom.

35.00. Also avapttblc Psychic Research Tours June I and July 6. Garden Tour of Foglgnrt June Wrte for detailed leaflci to ENJOY BRITAIN THE WORLD LTD 9 (OC) Reece Mews, London S.W.7. Tel 01-584 9010 PORTUGAL You'd IDce to take a holiday in a sunshine laiTd bur fast that little bit different Wny not make It Porrusal this year We can oiler you very bis choice. Wc have holidays al Liibon.

Cascaii, Azeiiao, and Esril. Then there's Pono Noyo we called ii a scoop when wc ftrsi introduced and bow right we were. Here you can slay at the hotel Golf Mar. Praia de Santa Cruz and The.Alsarve can also be found in our proBratnme. Write for our summer holidays brochure ERNA LOW TRAVEL SERVICE 47 (OO Old Brompton Road, London.

S.W.7. TcL: 01-589 4SS5. CAA ATOL 336BP. FRENCH ADVENTURE '74 me Hotel lracaie win again De our main centre. PORTO a picturesque village with the 3 Star Hotel Mediterranee.

QUENZA an escapist's mountain resort. ST. FLORENT an artist's delight. CALVI fir bathing and entertainment. PROPRIANO a sleepy fishing village.

Write or 'phone for our Summer Brochure ERNA LOW TRAVEL SERVICE 47 (OS) Old Brompton Road, London SW7 Tel 01-589 4SSS CAA ATOL 316BD Fucv, friends and sua unlimited try rircr, mountain. Mcdiicmaeaa. Cfcndcioff down ibe Aruccnc any on, timing vauam, viaicsswns tn uie ime a azut. Featured on the T.V. and the.

Times Travel Guide selection for quality, waa vaiue. write or pnone tor orocnure. P.G.L. ADVENTURE LTD 103, RniwWn Hlds. HR9 7AH.

Tel (0M9) Z115 maktimtali Mncfa ttfcnle 69. To Townsend Thoresen Car Ferries P.O. Box 1LD. Please send me tile Wanderbook of Conti ncntal Holidays with timetables and reservation forms. HjClHGUlAlVQNrtll Hire a Chalet If vou have 11 holiday plans.

A rt Address- by the Sea We have chalets for hire at our Continental Holiday Village. It's by the sea, has a heated swimming pool, clubhouse and bar, and marvellous facilities for children. Have a self-catering holiday here of any duration, or a three- or.four-nieht stay at one.low urice Fee oacar and passenger tceoa bookings. OZ43 VJ JevrfPl vrf going covet luLTOfNDfflORESEN i For your free copy of our Wanderbook of Continental tiar covers' car and passenger fares and cnalet reataL very much more titan a car ferry service I HoUdays With Your Car, fill in the coupon moionr.gorgamsauon, Book thxoush your travel agent. camping club, caravan club or TownscQneresett Car jjgj'J'.