The Honolulu Advertiser from Honolulu, Hawaii • 2

THE PACIFIC COMMERCIAL ADVERTISER: HONOLULU, APRIL 30, 1898. 3f crater and on the right of the trail as we went up. The lava had formed a square pile of blocks, heaped up with all the regularity of mason work. The sides, about twelve feet each way, were squared nicely, and rose about eight feet above the foundation. The top was quite smooth, and at a little distance the whole resembled a gigantic altar.

As near as we could judge, -it stood as high as anj other point on the summit level, and near at hand was a monu the wall against which it rested, reared itself against the steep side of the crater, and stood out boldly in the intense light from the incandescent fountain. On the left, with its base nearly reached by the liquid streams flowing out from the lake into which the cascade fell, was another long pile of debris that reached to the level of the plateau B. I should say here that the sides of this plateau looked to be about one hundred feet deep to where they met the edge of the lower basin. The basin itself occupied about one-third of the space bounded by the ancient walls of the crater. Flowing down the sides of the symet-rical cone that the falling stream of lava was rapidly forming, were many bright rivers of liquid light that, spreading as they flowed away, and crossing and recrossing in a tangle of bright lines, formed a lake of rivulets that ever widening, mingling, spreading and interlacing, presented a unique and "beautiful appearance.

On the extreme right hand verge of this lower basin detached pools of fire showed that while a dark crust was forming on the surface, beneath the entire area of the basin was overflowed by the melted lava. We watched steadily the grand fountain playing before us, and called frequently to each other to note when some tall jet, rising far above the head of the main stream, would carry with it immense masses of white-hot growing rock, that as they fell and struck upon the black surface of the cooling lava, burst like meteors in a summer sky. As soon as we had reached the summit level of the mountain we heard the muffled roar of the long, pent up gases as they rushed out of the opening that their force had rent in the basin's solid bed. And now that we were in full view of the grand display, our ears were filled with the mighty sound, as of a heavy surf booming in upon a level shore, while ever and anon a. mingled, crash and break of sound would call to mind the heavy rush of ponderous waves against the rocky cliffs that girt Hawaii.

Towards our left the party wall that shut in the crater of Pohaku Hanalei stretched across from cliff to cjiff at a lower elevation than the other boundaries to Mokuaweoweo. From the broken appearance of the angle formed by this party wall and the main cliff on the southeast side, we judged that with a rd to rest. Then we noticed for the time a curious change in the sound of our voices. The tones were echoless and dead, and it seemed at times as though another man's voice was articulated through one's mouth. In a short time the guide moved on again, by instinct, apparently, especially when the mist closes in heavily, but every now and then traces could be seen of the party who had preceded us by a few days.

The stillness was oppressive, only broken at times by what Mr. llantilini, in his mangle-turning days, would "one 'demned infernal gjind" of the horses feet upon the gritty pahoehoe, but as we could see the smoke of the crater before, albeit above, us, we felt assured of the general direction. At the expiration of another hour we rested again, and while commenting on the probable length of time that would elapse before vegetation would clothe the horrid waste, Effervescent Bob laid a wager with the historian that in 300 years there would be a desirable farm where we then stood. We bound ourselves to be witnesses to the result, and move cn. The lava fields of this region exceed in wilderness and confusion the most extravagant nightmare ever inflicted upon mortal man.

For miles on either hand, behind and. above, great billowy masses tossed and twisted into a thousand grotesque met the eye. Huge terrace after terrace is surmounted, and still before us rise new rugged outlines to be overcome. Immense bubbles have slowly risen from the confused masses and burst, and yawned apart. Swift unning.streams of molten lava have clift straight furroughs the congealed eurface.

Massive flows Lave fallen In, exposing, new depths of jagged outlines; at times we skirt the tides of great streams of a-a, that have rushed down over everything, and heaped high rugged mounds of brown scoria into impassable walls. Winding around the base of tossed up hillocks of rounded pahoehoej traversing the surface of what was once a widespread lake that in cooling had cracked and rent its floor into a thousand gaps and fissures; painfully toiling up the sides of mounds of debris, and again for miles surmounting the rounded surfaces of billowy lava, the road leads on and ever upward. It was rough! Walking for half an hour ran the pulse up to 1C5 leats per minute, and while resting the average rate of those who had been riding, was 100 beats per minute. But little nausea or "mountain sickness" was felt, but all were more or less troubled with a turgid sensation in the head, some Ringing of the ears, and all breathed quickly, with frequent strong inspirations.to fill the lungs. A slight cut on the finger of one of the party bled very freely, as did the abrasions inflicted on the horses' heels by contact with the rough lava.

The surface of the lava, if broken by the horses' hoofs, presents no new appearance, and an attempt by one of the party to trace, for even a few the apparent track ended invariably in ignominious failure. At such times an amused expression flitted across the shrewn countenance of our guide, as he, without a moment's hesitation, moved into the "trail," and we quietly followed. I say quietly advisedly, for all our faculties were now concentrated In the occupation of breathing and looking toward the ever-distant summit smoke. At last after five hours of toil we rode through a rude gateway formed by two gigantic masses of upheaved lava rock, and reached the edge of a rough pali, from which we looked out upon Tbe Summit. the party, with her husband.

She was sick, but wonderfully patient The Printer next to her groaned dismally. Hennery, who had wedged himself in near at hand, ceased talking (ominous sign) of a sudden, and in a moment after rose quickly and made his way to the entrance. At first he moved carefully over the prostrate forms, then, as the exigencies of the case became more pressing, quicker; finally with a plunge his head went outside and there was a noise as of the rush of waters. He was sick. Then another growled out, "Confound you, you've got one of your spurs in my ear!" "Oh Lord!" groaned another, "I've got a cramp! Oh! murder! Sit on me, somebody! Oh Lord! oh Lord!" The blacksmith here, interposed with "Go to sleep, can't you; confound your cramps; keep your feet still, I want them for a pillow." Charlie, wrapped in his serapa, stirred uneasily and muttered, "I wonder who it is that has turned in with his rawhide sandals on.

Phew, how they smell!" Bob grumbled at "so much chin music." The Historian, who had propped himself up against a' tent p61e, softly sighed his woe out on the unsympathetic in fact giddy air, while the Captain panted beneath a heavy load of blankets, oil cloths, overcoats, and vowed the next morning that he hadn't slept a wink. Our two Rhode Island friends were discovered when daylight came, jammed in together in a pulpy mass in a crevice in the floor of our tent Now and then the night wind swept over us water was freezing all the while and a convulsive groan shook the heaving mass of humanity. A few moments lull would follow, cramps would again seize some one of the party, and the tent be again in an uproar. Did one of the occupants attempt to turn over? A commotion ensued as if one sardine in a boxfull had attempted to sleep on the other side. Now and then room would have to be made for some one to get his head outside to be sick.

All the night an undertone of growls sounded in unison with the uninterrupted roar of the fire fountain. Before daylight that heavy sound grew much louder, and upon viewing the -jet then it had sensibly increased in volume and in height. Its cone was growing rapidly in size, and now the two broad wings wTere almost closed in front. Down the sloping sides of this cone ran streams of liquid lava that, uniting at its base, either found their way back into the whirl of molten matter or else streamed out over the surface of the ever widening lake that filled the bottom of the lower basin. As the rays of the approaching morning sun began to illuminate the far distant eastern horizon how far distant I can't say, I refer you to Keawe we saw that the upward starting beams of light passed through a thick belt of clouds, encircling the mountain.

Not a sign of sea or land was visible, in any direction, and we felt very much alone. The sticks of wood which we had brought up the night before had furnished a good fire, whereat our tea was boiled such tea! Boiling, as the water did, at a temperature of about 185 deg. it failed to extract the divine nectar, and only hinted by its warmth arid sweetness we had plenty of sugar at "the cup that cheers." The Sabbath morning that was now dawning so cheerlessly found us shivering over a rousing blaze under the lee of our tent, from whose trailing folds issued strange sounds and stranger looking bipeds. The Captain, who had been exploring Oirthstone for Is tks Some things are right in my line, and the optical business is one of them. This department is one to which I devote most of my time, giving the 'greatest amount of care and attention to each individual case.

Eyes are tested in a scientific manner. The latest appliances are used, which make the test less trying to the patient, and we guarantee absolutely perfect results in every case. The value of a correct and comfortably fitting glass cannot be overestimated in such cases where the trouble is directly due to imperfect vision. Many see distant objects well, yet are. constantly troubled with perhaps headaches, burning sensation in the eyes, or occasional blurring of the print when reading, yet are reluctant to attribute it to an actual defect of vision.

Being able to discern distant objects, is by no means a sure indication that your eyes are normal. Extreme far sight is as great a defect as near sight, and requires the same treatment. Glasses are the only relief, and these should be of the right kind. Zllt is ourbusinessto supply you with only IT TfiT li 7. NEARLY a Life Size AND Life Like For a limited time we offer the public an opportunity to obtain a nearly LIFE SIZED CRAYON PORTRAIT Keatly framed, and 1 dozen Cabinets of the sitter for 00 ,4) 1 J.J.WlLLlATIS 4237-3m CASTLE.

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Where water power is available it costs nothing to generata Electric Power. THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC COH-PANY Is now ready to furnish Electric Plants and Generators of all descriptions at short notice, and also has cn hand a large stock of Wir. and all Electrical Goods. All orders will be given prompt attention, and estimates furnished fc? Lighting and Power Plants; also attention is given to House End Marin Wiring. THEO.

HOFFMAN, 'Manager. HONOLULU pm HI line hul W. W. WRIGHT. Proprietor.

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I am prepared to do all kinds of work in my line at the Lowest Possible Rates, Jobbing a Specialty. JAS. NOTT, JR in mental pile upheaved by volcanic action that resembled the piles the natives raise on any sacred spot. We looked in yain for any traces of the camp laid cut on the summit by Commodore Wilkes, and as we could see over a broad ex panse, we are of the opinion that he must have camped on the opposite or northwest side of fh ecrater. The road back to the camp at the edge of the woods being, taken over the same route that we pursued going up, but little can be said about it save that was very tiresome.

The experiment was tried of walking down, and at the end of three hours was given up in con sequence of the chafing of the toes by the constant forward pressure of the foot in the boot. The shortness of breath that troubled us going up did not make itself apparent on the way down, and in five hours from the start we were again at the edge of the woods. Halting long enough to have a hasty unch, we allowed our animals to hurry on to the water hole a mile hey soon satisfied their thirst. WILLIAMS' PINK PILLS. WHEN buying Pink Pills, be sure that the name in full "Dr.

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BLICK, Queen let. Punchbowl Kawalahao Laae, Mauka side. Work done at owners' residence or at above address. 4243-m 'SIS pnB.nnranii 1911103 qsBD joj saguDBS pps sppo 'SNOISIAOHd 3S3NVdVf TI0ITKTI CIXV 3TCIS sr-y- IV I SJfeiJ JEM ill 1 little nerve one might reach the plateau and from thence, by means of the heaped up pile of debris spoken of before, get down to the level of the lower basin. A' plan was arranged to attempt it the next morning, but it was not carried out.

Looking along the rugged out line of the crater's edge towards our right, we noticed a vast a-a flow that would cut us off from exploring, in that direction. Following on the sky line of the beetling cliff to where it joined the wall that bounded the southwest side of the crater we saw, framed as it were by the eastern and western wall, the uneven outline of Manua Kea. Clear and cold looked that distant mountain peak, but not as clear as was the bright light of the lava stream below, nor as cold as was the wind that eddied around the crater's" edge. At Slixht. the jet looked loftier, and gazing intent ly into the fiery column with a good glass that we had, we could see the limpid, sparkling upward jet rising with tremendous force from out an in candescent lake.

Following up the glow ing stream, we -saw it arch itself and pour over, as it were, in one broad, beautiful cascade. While the ascending stream was almost silvery in its intense brightness, the falling sheet was slight ly dulled by cooling, and thus the two were ever rising, falling, shodting up in brilliant jets, and showering down with mingled dashes of bright light and shooting spray, while in the lake out of which rose the fountain and into which fell the fiery masses, danced and played a thousand mimic waves, and fiery foam swirled round and round. Upon its sur face danced rnyriad jets and bubbles, and from its edge flowed out the rivulets of lava that in a tangled maze of lines covered all the lake. There was not a moment when the eye felt wearied, not a second when the ear was dulled to the solemn diapason of the mighty jet and fall. But soon a fierce trembling of our tired bodies at once we realized that it was freezing cold.

Our tent wTas yet to be put up, tea made and blankets spread. -With a las't lingering look at the fountain of fire, a look that took in all the grandeur of the secene, we turn ed away and sent about our prepara tions for the night. When, after leaving our horses, we pushed eagerly forward and suddenly found ourselves on the crater's edge, all our senses reeled under the influence of the scene. The symptoms of approach ing'mountain sickness had become more marked after our arrival upon the sum mit plateau, and our nerves had been strung up to concert, pitch by intense anxiety to reach the crater before night, set in, as well as by the rarifica tion of the air and the unwonted cold. It was noticeable then, that as one after the other paused on the edge of the precipitous wall of the crater, and we had given vent to our excitement three cheers for the pioneer lady, that a sudden accession vertigo, induced by a terrified glance into the depths below us, caused a hasty retreat of a fewT paces, and a sudden prostration of the system.

In short, we "weakened," and in a few minutes the occasion call ed for the use of those funny looking tins in vogue on the Kilauea. Onr Tent. mat naa seen service near the same spot a few days before (we found the tent poles of the Curtis-Palmer party a little to our left), was hastily pitched on a comparatively smooth surface of pahoehoe at a short distance from the crater's It was eight feet square on the floor, and to keep its poles up and its edges down we heaped stones all around. Stowed away in this space of eight feet square were thirteen of the most miserable humans to be found on iop 01 ine iawanan Islands. The tent being put ud in a hnrrv nftM dari- ktt a half dozen half-frozen and wiiolly sick greenhorns, of course it half came down 10 1 the depths of a huge that v.

wi along, the crater edge, here with a cake of pure, beautiful ice thr.i he had found deep down in the rent. Starting off with a five-gallon container we clambered down and quickly filled it. We had been assured that there was plenty of water on the summit, and it was 'very pleasant to prove the cor rectness of the information. After our breakfast we took one last look at the active crater. No amount of daylight could wholly dim the brightness of the fiery column that still sent up its volumes of molten lava.

The isolated fires burning on the right hand edge of the lower basin were black and dead apparently; the surface of the lake flowing out from the cone no longer glowed with a bright tracery of lines, but this was due to daylight, not to anv diminution of the oillar of fire. Ex amining the lower basin again, we no ticed that it extended rather more to the right than is shown in the sketch and its western margin was close under the beetling cliffs that rose above it. Packing up our blankets and other traps did not take us long-, and while this was being done a scroll was pre pared, setting forth that on the 7th of September, 1S72, the following party reached the summit and camped at that spot, retiring from the scene again early on the morning of the 8th: Mrs J. H. Black, the first woman known to have accomplished the ascent: J.

Black, H. M. Whitney, Henry Macfar lane, Chas. N. Spencer, Robert Rycroft Captain David Smith, John T.

Chayter John McColgan, John Reaney, Geo. Adams, Arthur W. Claflin, F. L. Clarke with the guide, Henry Grandall, and three Hawaiians.

We left directions where to find water, and encasing the whole in a tin, which we plugged tight ly, the affair was suspended from a pole driven deep into a crevice, and left for the edification of future tourists. The party who had preceded us by a few days, consisting of Messrs. Wm. F. Con way of Hilo, H.

N. Palmer of Manila G. M. Curtis of New York, and H. Di mond, of Ohio, had enclosed their record in a bottle and left it in.

a crevice Before us lay a rugged plain about two smiles in diameter, of black lava, over laid in many places with fields of brown a-a, and everywhere torn into unheard of shapes by the fierce power that had upheaved the whole. To our right rose a remarkable monument or pillar show- mg black against the sky. Un every hand yawned deep crevices, and spent waves of lava had dashed together in a myriad shapes and so congealed. Hur rying, on as well as we were able, we finally reached a cul-de-sac formed by a branching a-a flow, and here we dis mounted and tethered our animals for the night. This done, we took our way COO vards over a narrow strip of rugged lava, and all at once stood upon the edge of the Crater of Mokuaweoweo.

There before us at our feet, as it were, yawned a terrific chasm, with black perpendicular walls carrying the eye down some SCO feet, to where, in the inky blackness of the lower basin, there sprung lip in glorious sparkling, light, self-born, a mishtv fountain of clear molten lava. Referring to the diagram published herewith, the reader will find that we reached the crater's edge on the eastern side at the point marked by the -outline of a tent. The ancient walls that en circle the pit, marked on our side fell perpendicularly about five hundred feet, while on the opposite or western side they ran down nearer eight hun dred, to where the plateau marked formed a floor to the crater, broken down again to form the pit marked C. The general shape of the central crater, Mokuaweoweo, was an irregular elipse, rather more than three-quarters of a mile through the shorter axis, by about a mile and a quarter from the dividing wall marked by a dctted line on the left that separated it from the crater linown as Pohaku Hanalei, to a similar though not so well defined partition wall on the right hand that joined to it the crater G. Looking atraight across and below us at a distance in an air line of possibly three-quarters of a mile, there rose from a cone located near the southwest corner of the lower basin, a magnificent fountain of liquid lava, about seventy-five feet in diameter, that sent, its volume of brilliant, sparkling molten matter to a height estimated at live hundred feet, in a compact and powerful jet.

The axis of this gigantic fountain wras soniewiiat inclined toward us, so that the descending cascade fell clear and distinct from the upward shooting jet, and formed one contfnu- ous fall of liquid metal, surpassingly beautiful to gaze upon. Behind this near at hand. A short walk took us back to where we had left the horses, and we found them all right, but very impatient to be gone out of that. They had eat the bundles of grass we had brought for them, and only seemed to suffer from the cold. Taking up the line of march at 7 o'clock, we wound over the trail of the previous day.

Not far from where we had finally dismounted and left the horses was a remarkable upheaval of lava that we christened Helau Rock. 'It was situated about a mile from the Hery fountain a aark incline or aeons, partly thrown up by the outbreak, and partly formed by masses falling from as soon as we were inside, Stowed away in one corner on a rath er smooth slab of lava was the lady (Smokers' Requisites a specialty. Tinsmith and Plumber. 0.