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News Sun -Sentinel Smidai Food NewsSun-Sentinel, Sunday, Nov. 4, 1984 15E The slim gourmet Controversy doesn't hamper author i j.nu i it (:.: rs Ws 1 I i Samples from 16E Martha Stewart, Wall Street stockbroker turned caterer and cookbook author, claims the press unjustly wove the web of plagiarism allegations she was tangled in recently. Last September, Stewart agreed to give credit to Barbara Tropp, Chinese scholar and chef, in new editions of her book, Entertaining (Clarkson N. Potter, 35), after the Chicago Sun-Times reported the similarity between Tropp's and Stewart's recipes. Tropp alleged that Stewart had "plagiarized outright" several of her Chinese recipes, even using the same names.

The recipes, which were in the section on "A Chinese Banquet for Ten to Twelve," included Gold Coin Eggs, Strange-Flavor Eggplant and Strange-Flavor Fish. Tropp alleged that the recipes, which she obtained from an old man who lived in the house where she lived in Taipei, were simply doubled with minor alterations. "Recipes belong to a culture," Stewart said recently on a trip to South Florida. "They don't belong to a person." She noted that the recipes weren't Tropp's to begin with because she got them from the Chinese man. Stewart gave a lecture and slide show on entertaining last week at the Boca Raton Hotel and Club to benefit the Boca Raton Historical Society.

She also taught classes this week at Bobbi and Carole's Cooking School in Miami. "A recipe is a recipe," Stewart says. "Word for word copying is something else I did not copy the recipes word for word, but they were inspired by Tropp." Stewart says the first mention of the recipes was in an article she wrote for House Beautiful about her daughter Alexi's first Chinese banquet she prepared when she was 13. Stewart is the magazine's contributing food and entertaining editor. Alexis is now a sophomore at Barnard College.

"Somehow the attribution didn't get into Entertaining," Stewart says. "But it was corrected after the sixth or eighth edition." The attribution says that several recipes were "inspired by the Chinese scholar and chef Barbara Tropp." Unlike Richard Nelson, who hasn't announced any plans for new books since he was sued for plagiarism by Richard Olney, author of Simple French Food, Stewart has not been hurt by the allegations. Her next book, Martha Stewart's Hors d'Oeuvres (Clarkson N. TITLharlyne variionyi FOOD EDITOR Potter $17.95) is scheduled to be in bookstores by Dec. 14.

It is the first in a series of six books she will write through 1990 on single subjects under the Martha Stewart Food and Entertaining Library. She will also write a large-format book on weddings to be released in 1986. In conjunction with the wedding book, she will design a line of elegant-but-affordable dishes, glasses and flatware. "The whole thing has been blown out of proportion," says Stewart's editor Carolyn Hart Gavin. "Martha's case was a simple matter of a couple of recipes that she maintains and we certainly believe were changed substantially from Barbara Tropp's recipes.

"She certainly did not commit plagiarism. She is upset. This has been brought up in every article on plagiarism. It was merely a matter of attribution. It was a misunderstanding.

She did put in attribution immediately and that was it." Stewart's Entertaining has sold more than 200,000 copies and her Quick Cook (Clarkson N. Potter $17.95) has sold more than 100,000 copies, according to the publisher. It's no wonder. The books are beautifully done with plenty of full-color photographs of the dishes. Entertaining, a pleasure to read as well as cook with, also contains some informative step-by-step photographs and table-setting ideas.

"These are not just my cookbooks," Stewart says. "They are my ideas for entertaining, for a lifestyle. Ever since I was in the third grade I wanted to be a teacher. This is, one way to be kind of a teacher." She says she can't understand those who won't share their recipes or those who leave things out when giving others recipes. She says when she teaches a class she gives directions to the most minute detail.

But she is also concerned about 9 Bran muffins offer bulk, fiber. Quick mix a fiber fix By Barbara Gibbons Special to the NewsSuo-Sentinel Convenience foods and calorie-watching just don't seem to go together. With few exceptions, most mixes aimed at shortcutting work do so at the expense of calories and nutrition. In one form or another, starch, shortening and sugar seem to be the main ingredients. I'm going to tell you how to make some handy mixes that are low in calories, saturated fat, refined starches and sugars.

Better yet, these mixes are enriched with bran for bulk and fiber, with non-fat milk for calcium and lean protein. Note that they call for finely textured unprocessed bran, rather than bran cereal. WHOLE-WHEAT BRAN MUFFIN OR QUICKBREAD MIX 3 cups all-purpose flour 3 cups whole-wheat flour 2 cups unprocessed bran 2 cups non-instant non-fat dry milk powder cup baking powder 1 tablespoon salt Vj cup safflower oil Use pastry mixer or electric mixer to combine ingredients until thoroughly mixed. Transfer to a tightly covered container; use as needed. CORN-BRAN MUFFIN MIX: Substitute yellow corn meal for the whole-wheat flour.

SUff photo by TIM RIVERS Martha Stewart shared her views on entertaining last week at the Boca Raton Hotel and Club. These are not just my cookbooks. They are my ideas for entertaining, for a lifestyle. 99 Martha Stewart signment in France when she discovered Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking on a visit to Cordon Bleu. When she returned home she started on page 1, Volume I and cooked her way through.

Then she went through the second volume. "I really don't know Child," she says, "but she is my heroine. The book was my teaching guide." The current trendy chef she admires most is Jonathan Waxman, owner of Jams in New York City. "His food is the best," she says. "He uses fresh ingredients and is dedicated to quality and presentation.

He cooks the way I like to eat." your name be on the sweater you designed." One time when someone refused to share a recipe, Stewart said she told her daughter to taste the chocolate cookie and make one just like it. She says her inspiration for the past 21 years has been Julia Child. Stewart was on a modeling as those who work for her who would demand center-stage. She now has five chefs and three office managers in her Westport, catering business. "I won't let people work for me who demand that their name be on a recipe," she says.

"It would be like working as a designer for Ralph Lauren and demanding that ChefOwnerT 3 lllilfr 0wnerg gpihJW ft jipHy Victoria wim Jzt feT" rf.f fffll BerKeley, Calif. yl5 XtS Teacher Monterey Fish pk.f. J-! 'PSi Berkeley. CalH. cneT fiSLrll Tl Carolyn Dill WHOLE-WHEAT QUICKBREAD OR MUFFINS 2'A cups Whole-Wheat Mix (recipe given) 1 cup water 1 egg or equivalent no-cholesterol egg substitute Combine ingredients in bowl, blender or food processor, beat until blended.

Spoon into a non-stick 8-inch cake pan or divide among 16 muffin cups. Bake in a preheated 425-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes for quickbread, or 10 to 15 minutes for muffins. Makes 16 servings, about 115 calories each. CORN-BRAN MUFFINS: Use Corn-Bran Mix (recipe given) in place of Whole-Wheat Mix. Makes 16 muffins, 120 calories each.

SEASONED BRAN MEAT LOAF MIX 3 cups plain breadcrumbs 3 cups unprocessed bran 'A cup salt cup dried onion flakes 2 tablespoons dried thyme leaves 1 tablespoon coarse pepper 1 tablespoon dry mustard 2 teaspoons dried garlic flakes Stir ingredients together until thoroughly mixed. Transfer to a covered container; label and use as needed. EASY SEASONED MEAT LOAF 2 pounds fat-trimmed beef round, ground 1 cup Seasoned Bran Meat Loaf Mix (recipe given) 1 cup water or tomato juice 1 egg or equivalent no-cholesterol egg substitute Mix ingredients and lightly shape into a loaf. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 1 hour. Makes 10 servings, 160 calories each; 5 calories less per serving with egg substitute; 5 calories more per serving with tomato juice.

HIGH-FIBER ITALIAN MEATBALLS: Follow preceding recipe, using tomato juice. Add 1 teaspoon either dried oregano or basil or Vt teaspoon each to the meat mixture. Shape into 32 meatballs; arrange in a single layer on a baking tray and bake in preheated 450-degree oven until browned. Each meatball, 50 calories. Add to spaghetti sauce, if desired.

Write to Barbara Gibbons at United Features Syndicate, 200 Park New York, N.Y. 10017. Waters sets cooking style for the '80s Chez Panisse recipes 19E By Marian Burros The New York Timet If Henri Soule can be credited with igniting the explosion of fine French food in New York in the 1950s and '60s, then Alice Waters, owner and sometime chef of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, deserves similar recognition for revolutionizing American cooking in the 1970s and '80s. More than any other single figure, Waters has been instrumental in developing the exciting and imaginative style that has been labeled New American Cuisine. Its trademarks apparent in a wide range of dishes that include such marvelous inventions as whole baked garlic with white cheese and peasant bread, smoked trout and chervil butter, and ragout of wild mushrooms with veal stock and red wine are an adventurous, often improvisational use of the finest American ingredients and an exquisitely simple and straightforward approach to their preparation.

In the last five years Chez Panisse has spread its influence through a family tree whose branches reach a number of the country's most exciting new restaurants. Jonathan Waxman at Jams in New York; Mark Peel at Spago in Los Angeles; Jeremiah Tower at Stars and Joyce Goldstein at Square One, both in San Francisco; and Charlene Rollins at the New Boonville Hotel in Boonville, all worked in the Chez Panisse kitchens. So did Mark Miller of the Fourth Street Grill in Berkeley, Carolyn Dille, a food writer and caterer who lives outside Washington; Steven Sullivan of the Acme Bread Company in Berkeley, Judy Rogers, who until earlier this year was the chef at the Union Hotel in Benicia, and a half-dozen others who have settled from the West Coast to Rome. The lessons they learned at Chez Panisse are manifested in different ways. Goldstein has turned her skills to improvising a variety of ethnic dishes gravad halibut cured with gin and juniper and served with cucumbers and wasabi cream, for instance, and a salad of spiced brisket of beef salad with vegetables and mint vinaigrette.

Waters quickly acknowledges her own debt to the French: Chez Panisse began in 1971 as a French restaurant, emphasizing the earthy cooking of Provence. But she began to esperiment-Soonthe traditional dishes fc'ere lightened, and ingreditr.ts Jaramlah Towar Star San Francisco Mark Millar Fourth Street Grill Berkeley, CalH. Joyce Goldateln Square One San Francleco Jonathan Waxman Jama New York City Charlene Rolllne fco owntf) New Boonville Hotel Boonville, Calif. I I Teacher, caterer, I Xry- jt- I cookbook author The Cheese Board I Rockvllle.Md. Berkeley.

Calif. I BakerOwner Mark Peel Spago Los Angeles Catherine Brandel Executive chef Qreat Chefs of France and Qreat Chefa of America Robert Mondavi Winery Napa Valley, Calif. Other: Deborah Medleon, former chef at Greens, San Francisco; now studying at American Academy, Rome. Judy Rogers, former chef at Union Hotel, Benicia, now catering In the Bay area. Uly Lecocq, former owner of La Farlne Bakery, Oakland, Calif.

Slbella Kraut Liaison between producers and restaurateurs Berkeley, Calif. Steven Sullivan Acme Bread Company Berkeley, Calif. New York Times graphic from 1972 to 1977, inspiration flowed in the other direction. Initially, Waters remembers, it was she who was intimidated. "He had a bold way of doing things," she says of Tower, who is now co-owner of the Sante Fe Bar and Grill in Berkeley and owner of the 2-month-old Stars.

"He was not hesitant," Waters says. "His cooking is more elaborate than mine, more flamboyant and richer. I'm more garlic and olive oil he's more cream and butter. But initially I was fascinated by his combinations, things I wouldn't have thought of. Despite her contribution to the American cooking revolution, the 40-year-old Waters, who was once a Montessori School teacher, has never taken a formal cooking lesson.

She opened Chez Panisse with $10,000 so that friends who dropped by to eat what she cooked "would pay me for it and I could stop teaching school," she says. vard as an undergraduate and graduate student. Others studied English literature, philosophy and Chinese art history and anthropology. Goldstein was a painter. The atmosphere in the kitchen was hectic and frequently chaotic, but those who came to work at Chez Panisse soon discovered that Waters was an exceptional teacher.

Wax-man, whose restaurant on East 79th Street in Manhattan is noted for its grilled foods and fresh vegetables, says: "She teaches by example, not by lecture. She is not classically trained, but she is an intellectual chef. She understands food and presents it in an alive and healthy manner." Others found the lack of organization, the informality, stressful in the beginning. "It was difficult at first," says Mark Peel, now the chef at Wolfgang Puck's innovative Los Angeles restaurant Spago. In the case of Jeremiah Tower, who was Waters' partner and chef at Chez Panisse indigenous to California were used.

She insisted that those ingredients be impeccably fresh and prepared to highlight, rather than mask, their flavor. A meal at Chez Panisse last spring was a study in how simple ingredients can be turned into remarkable dishes when left alone to speak for themselves: baby lamb simply roasted and served with pan juices; the restaurant's often-imitated warm goat cheese salad, with lettuces only hours old; a delicate olive oil and Sauternes cake that tasted as homey as the prize-winner at the county fair. From the beginning, this philosophy has attracted talented, creative, young people most in their late 20s and 30s who loved good food and appreciated Waters' intellectual approach to it. Few had any formal culinary training. Her one-time partner and first chef.

Tower, had studied Assign at Har.