The Orlando Sentinel from Orlando, Florida • Page 77

II The Orlando Sentinel, Thursday, September 26, 1996 H-7 7 Subtle elephant garlic proves bigger can be tastiet Bjimmy ScTimidt Is- Roast Chicken With 40 Cloves of Garlic Yield: 4 servings i 1 roasting chicken (4V4 pound or more), parts removed and cavity rinsed under cold running water, washed, patted dry 1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic (optional) Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste small bunch of fresh thyme (on substitute rosemary or otherjg hearty herb) at 40 I large cloves (or more) of elephahrj garlic, peeled, trimmed 'w-: Juice of 2 to 3 lemons 'I I them in boiling water or milk for two to three minutes to gently soften them and extract some of that garlic bite. They will only be partially cooked and will finish during the cooking process. Start by loosening the garlic cloves from the bulb. Put the bulbs in a towel and bang on your kitchen counter to loosen their skins. Peel and trim the hard stem end of the clove.

Place cloves in and around the chicken in the roasting skillet or pan. Rub the chicken's skin with some chopped fresh garlic, then rub with a little butter or olive oil. Season with coarse salt, freshly ground pepper and thyme, rosemary or your favorite herbs. Start the oven at 475 to get the caramelization going, then reduce the oven temperature to 375 F. The aroma of chicken and garlic will grow and grow until you are under its spell.

Cook until the juice runs clear and the internal temperature is 170 as tested by an instant thermometer. Throw a couple of parsnips, carrots or potatoes in with the chicken before roasting and make a meal. Remove the juice from the roasting pan, skim the fat and return juice to the skillet. Add a little lemon juice or white wine to the skillet and simmer. Scrape the pan to loosen the drippings and reduce the liquids until they begin to thicken.

Season and spoon over your chicken. Jimmy Schmidt is the proprietor of the Rattlesnake Club, Stelline, Chianti and Chianti Villa Logo, all in Michigan. DElROITFREtPRES iVv Rarely in gastronomy is bigger necessarily tastier, but fall brings in the superb elephant garlic crop. These larger-than-life members of the garlic family are tender and sweet, perfect to play center stage with golden roasted chicken. Most of the elephant garlic is produced in Oregon, where the temperate growing climate allows it to develop over the longer growing season.

In this recipe, the chicken is cooked with the skin to keep the bird moist. Just remove it after cooking if you wish to avoid the fat. With fall in the air, choose a meatier, fuller-flavored roaster. A roaster is more mature than a fryer, yet still only about 6 months of age. Rinse the bird well under cold running water.

Pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large, heavy skillet or roasting pan. Roast chicken with 40 cloves of garlic: Yes, that's right, 40 cloves of garlic. After all, that's only 10 per guest. That may sound like a lot of garlic, but once you taste the first clove, you'll want to eat more.

When selecting garlic, choose firm, solid heads with dry, paperlike skins. Avoid mushy heads that show signs of mold. Store in a cool, dark cupboard and keep the bulbs from touching. Use quickly while they are at their best. Do you love garlic, but find the flavor is too strong even when it's roasted tender? Take peeled and trimmed garlic cloves and blanch 1.

Heat the oven to 475-500 F. 2. Place the cleaned roasting chicken in a deep, heavy ovenproof skillet or roasting pan- Rub the entire skin of the bird with the minced garlic, if desired. Season the cavity and surface of the bird generously with salt and pepper. Place a little thyme into the cavity and place into the skillet 1 3.

Surround the chicken with the garlic cloves and place a few in fee cavity, if desired. Drizzle a little olive oil over the chicken and ttie garlic 4. Place the skillet on the lower rack of the oven, cooking the chicken icjr about 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to; 375 anijcook until jh juices run clear and the internal temperature is 170 or more as tested 5by an instant thermometer. the garlic begins to browrt heavily, add a pupkif water to the skillet to help'prevent too much caramelization.

5. Remove from the oven and allow the juices from the bird to drain trjji the cavity into the skillet. the bird and the garlic to the platter and keep warm. -AT 6. Transfer the cooking Juices from the skillet to'A ming container and remove the fat.

7. Return the juices to the skillet and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the lemon juice and scrape the cooking juices from the skillet. Reduce until the juices begin to thicken. Season.

Remove from the skillet and strain into a sauce boat. 8. Serve the whole bird garnished with the thyme and whole garjjc cloves. Serve the sauce over the chicken or on the side. BARBARA V.

PEREZTHE ORLANDO SENTINEL Dinner on the run. Luigi's assembled the take-out order fast. From ziti to pizza, Luigi's offers plenty of Italian fare Nutrition information per serving (Diabetic exchanges: 5V4 medium fat meat, fat.) Carbohydrate 5g Protein 44 Fat 27 Sodium 132 mg Calories 450 Cholesterol 170 mg I was sure glad I had phoned in my order ahead of time to Luigi's. If you've ever been to the unrefined eatery on the corner of Lee Road and Edgewater Drive, you know how small it is. There is no place for wait the dressing was already poured on.

It's almost standard operating procedure in the world of takeout food for dressings to be served on the side, so I hadn't even thought to ask for it. If this bothers you be sure Studies indicate kids still prefer white bread By Carole Sugarman WASHINGTON POST to specify. The veal par-migiana was the better of the two entrees. The tender scallops were topped with a zesty marinara. And the dish included a side of spaghetti with tomato ing, and if you are forced to stand inside the front door, you feel as though you should introduce yourself to the people at the first table because you're practically in their laps.

are usually about the same, whether the bread is white or whole wheat. Then there's the fiber issue. Most whole-grain breads do have more dietary fiber than white double the amount, in fact. But looked at in another way, the difference doesn't amount to much, because while many white breads have 1 gram of dietary fiber per slice, whole wheat has 2. "When my clients want fiber, I send them to bran cereal," says Clark.

Some light white breads have even more fiber than whole wheat, as vegetable fibers are added to provide bulk without calories. That's why a slice of Wonder Light white has more than 2 grams of fiber per slice. At the same time, a similar-sized slice of Pep-peridge Farm whole wheat has less than 1 gram. Edie Anderson at Pepperidge Farm says it considered fortifying its line of Natural Whole Grain breads with fiber but decide! against it. "People who buy whole-wheat breads like the idea that they're getting fiber naturally," she says, "and who's to argue?" Who's to argue, either, that whole-wheat bread contains trace elements that aren't white bread; that it's a holistic, unrefined food; that its ingredients list contains foofls you can pronounce; and that its wholesome, grainy taste can't be beat? But for people who have school-aged kids, white bread may be the difference between a sandwich that's eaten and one that's traded for Cheetos.

Nutritionist Clark says her own children don't go for whole-wheat. "They won't eat a sandwich if I make it oh that," she says. "I'd rather have them eat a sandwich. Then I just do double duty on the carrot sticks." TOO Some nutritionists believe that people shouldn't harbor white bread guilt. It's a myth that white bread is worthless and filled with empty calories, contends Nancy Clark, director of nutrition services at SportsMedicine Brookline, an athletic-injury clinic, where she counsels athletes on complex carbohydrates.

At the same time, Clark also believes whole-wheat bread is no nutritional powerhouse. Since 1941, white flour has been enriched with thiamine, riboflavin, iron and niacin, in amounts equal to whole-wheat flour, according to the Wheat Foods Council. And most white breads are made with enriched white flour. So the amounts of iron and vitamins Take-out cuisine SCOTT JOSEPH But it took only a couple of minutes before my order was assembled and ready to go. The server who rang up my check was careful to inventory the containers against the order to make certain everything was included.

sauce. The linguine with white clam sauce just didn't "present" well. There were several greenish clams on top of the pasta and very little sauce. Still, it was not a bad entree either. Luigi's menu also includes spaghetti with meat sauce, riga- White bread consumption outpaces wheat toni or ziti with meat sauce, baked eggplant, la-sagna and manicotti.

Luigi's pizza is also a popular menu choice for take-out. TAKE-OUT TIP WHERE: Luigi's, 4898 Edgewater Drive (at Lee Road), Orlando. HOW TO ORDER: (407) There were two foam clam shell boxes with salads, a foam cup with bean and mac-aroni soup and two foil plates with the entrees: veal par- Scott Joseph is the restaurant critic for The Orlando Sentinel. His reviews can be heard at 12:45 and 4:50 p.m. Thursdays and at 5:56 p.m.

Fridays on 580 AM (WDBO). You can e-mail him at OSOjoseph on America Online or on Internet. a a ($10.85) and linguine with white clam sauce When I got home, I transferred everything to plates. The soup was a hearty broth filled with beans, pasta and big chunks of vegetables. The salads were simple, and you can eat bread." But Dirkes suspects that data from NPD Group may shed some light on it: People are eating less toast.

Barbara Scott, spokeswoman for the Wheat Foods Council, had another hypothesis. "A lot of people are confused," she says. They've heard reports or read the latest fad diet best sellers claiming that pasta and bread will make you fat and that peopje should be eating more protein, she says. At the same time, the federal government and many other health experts have been urging Americans to consume more grain products (the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Food Guide Pyramid recommends six to 11 servings daily; on average, we get only three).

That's not the only nutritional dichotomy about bread. According to a 1995 Gallup survey, Americans are split down the middle when it comes to whether white bread good for you or not. Yet given the huge consumption of white bread, even those who think it's bad are apparently still eating it.1 Nevertheless, attitudes about white bread have changed. The 1996 NPD Group Eating Trends survey found that 32 percent of homemakers discouraged eating white bread. That's down from 40 percent in 1990.

White bread has arrived again. When addicts of soft and squishy white bread from the supermarket grow up and make more money, they graduate to the denser and firmer brands, such as Pepperidge Farm and Arnold. And sales of those premium white breads are up, according to Edie Anderson, spokeswoman for Pepperidge Farm, which is now making just about every imaginable type of white bread (for toasting, for little sandwiches, big sandwiches, perfectly square sandwiches, you name it). In fact, while sales of specialty breads such as olive-rosemary sourdough are minute in the scheme of things, Anderson attributes the growth in premium white to the growing sophistication of the bread shopper. "Bakeries are introducing people to the wonderful world of differentiated breads," she says.

Still, curiously enough, despite the nation's love of loaves, total bread sales over the past few years have been either flat or declining slightly, according to Information Resources. Why? Mark Dirkes, of Interstate Brands which makes the 75-year-old Wonder bread, was at a loss to explain. "I don't really know for sure, other than this is a mature category. People have pretty much experimented with all the different ways BREAD from H-1 pie of things that people don't want to hear," says Harry Balzer, vice president of NPD Group, a market research firm. "The first is that people eat more white bread than any other.

The other thing is that people eat more beef than any other protein food." In fact, what has happened to white bread is similar to what has happened to beef. Even though people are eating less of both foods than they were 20 years ago, they still eat more white bread than whole-wheat and more beef than chicken. At the same time, consumption of the nutritionally correct versions has grown, but it has nowhere near caught up. The popularity of white bread is evident, no matter which statistics you look at (and there are many). The most current: In the 13 weeks ending July 28, 1996, 42 percent of supermarket bread sales were white, while 23 percent were whole-wheat, according to Information Resources, Inc.

The most lunch-relevant: Almost a third of all sandwiches were prepared on white bread last year, outpacing all other bread varieties by far, the NPD Group found. Fiscal Therapy Eagle Vision ESi bee Your Jeep Florida Jeep Eagle Dealer. ITTIfl Event includes cooking demos, wine seminars I Buy a ticket to the guest chef-winemaker dinner series. The dinners will take place in the Norway Lounge at Epcot. The dinners include a reception and five-course food and wine pairing, featuring the signature dishes of the guest chef.

The price for the dinner is $75 per person. Thf guest chef-winemaker dinners begin on Oct. 7 and are held nightly until Oct. 27, except for Oct. 19 and Oct.

22. For more information on the dinner series, caTfl (407) 939-3463. Or you can sign up for Disney Institute classes to be taught by the celebrity chefs. During the festival, the celebrity chefs will be host to one-hoBr CLASSIFIED PANTRY NOTICE VINNIE'S ITALIAN KITCHEN Any pizza, any occasion. 372 E.

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7AM-1PM. For Catalog call Diana CLASSIFIED PANTRY Join these advertisers, advertise your business in the Classified Pantry. Just call a Classified representative ot 407420-5757 and ask about advertising in Good Eating, Thursday in the Sentinel. Wright ot 397-1447. FESTIVAL from H-1 ketplaces also will be set up featuring distinctive foods and wines from Sweden, Thailand, Poland, Brazil, India, Greece, Russia and a variety of Middle Eastern countries.

For the festival, marketplaces have been set up representing 29 additional countries. For wine lovers, there will be 200 wines available. International wines will be featured in the marketplaces representing the country of origin. Domestic wines will be featured at two American wine pavilions that will be located on the World Showcase promenade. Wine samples will cost $1 to $2 and different wineries will be featured daily throughout the festival.

If you want to learn more about wine, wine seminars will be held daily at the America Gardens Theatre at 2:40 p.m. The 30-minute seminars will feature many speakers, including: Kevin Zra-ley of the Windows on the World wine school in New York City; Joshua Wesson, who's known as the Billy Crystal of wine; Jeff Prather, a respected speaker and vintner; and Steve Olson, a somme-lier who has run wine programs for many New York restaurants Beer lovers' can sample regional microbrews from around'the country at the American Adventure. Each beer will cost $2. Want to get up close and personal with the WINDSOR ROSE TEA RM Charming English Tea Rm. Specialize English Pub Fairs, Full Lunch Facility English Food 352-735-2551 BUSINESS OWNERS Buy low, sell highl Place your financial ad in the Orlando Sentinel Classified section.

TIM'S WINE MARKET UPCOMING TASTINGS at TIM'SWINEMARKET ITALIAN WINE RECEPTION with MARC DeGRAZIA -Tue, 101, SISperson. Marc OeGrazia has done more than any American importer to find the up-and-coming superstars of Italy bring their small production to this country. On this night he will be here to personally guide us through selections from his portfolio offer his insights into the wines people that are changing the face of Italian wine. Hon d'oeuvres provided by Bergomo'l. THE WINES OF NEAL ROSENTHAL Fri, 1025, 7pm, $20Person.

Neal Rosenthal it a former lawyer who has assembled a portfolio of high quality French Italian producers that Robert Parker recently praised as "distinctive consistenly high Rosenthal's selections are classically styled true to their region of origin, as close to drinking French as being there Call (407 895-9463 ALL TASTINGS REQUIRE PREPAID RESERVATIONS International wines will be featured in the marketplaces representing trie country of origin. ti If) WINE I WT1NGS GARGI'S 1421 Orong. A- INDIAN JESMURAOT-CWY OVEN ou. Orlando. 894-7907.

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Colonial CLASSIFACTS Or (Located in the Knights Inn) HOME STYLE COOKING Coll our new CLASSIFACTS Breakfast Lunch Specials. Hotline now and give us Hours: Mon-Fri 7am-4pm; your job title (up to three), jot.jun Holidays 7am-2pm. An operator will search the We Would Welcome The city or area ol the country Opportunity To Serve Youl or overnight. You II get a 4 win. new reporT every week all Tues-Thurs 11-9, for less than S7.50 per week, fffo SatSun plus shipping and handling.

407-654-0363. All Credit SUN-TUES 8om-10pm EST fggtjgrZjm WED-FRI aom-spm EST WANATU DIET 1-800-234-1189 Eating wction. ORLANDO SENTINEL AD NUMBER WHEN YOU ANSWER AN ORLANDO SENTINEL AD NUMBER Send your reply to Oriando Sentinel Ad No. The Orlando Sentinel Bon 2833 OHondo, FL 32802.2833 PHASE NOTE LAKERIDQT WINERY VINEYARDS Flo's largest winery. Free tours wine tasting, Mon-Sat, 10AM-5PM, Sun 11AM-5PM.

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"1 I cooking demonstrations and tasting sessions at ttjf Disney Institute culinary studios. To attend, yo must buy a $49 Disney Institute Day Visitor Past The pass includes another institute class and attendance to that evening's performance or film. The cg-lebrity chef demonstrations will be limited to 40 people. To register, call (407) 8274800. Check the address and use the specific number following the phrase, 'Reply Orlando Sentinel Ad If the ad does not specifically state "Reply Orlando Sentinel Ad it must be mailed directly to the address stated in the ad.

Send your reply to: OHondo Sentinel Ad The Orlando Sentinel P.O. BOX 2833 OHondo, FL 32802-2833 THE WINE CLUI Tastings: Noon-6pm. Saturdays; 929 W. Fairbanks Winter Park; Free. (407) 647-4744 chefs?.