Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • Page 4-3

DINING 3 TRIBUNE Ratings key: Outstanding Excellent Very Good Good Satisfactory Unsatisfactory. Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune. VIDEO REVIEW ON THE WEB Check out Duchamp, chef Michael latest restaurant, in Phil video review at chicagotribune.com/vettel By Phil Vettel TRIBUNE CRITIC Although named for an artist generally associated with Surrealism and Dadaism, Duchamp restaurant (as in Marcel Duchamp) is surprisingly down to earth.

nothing surreal about the food at the Bucktown spot, though Michael Taus manages a few twists on the menu, such as the and that involves skate wing, garlic-romano fries and no bread. Everything is familiar and accessible. And even a starving artist could afford to eat here; main courses top out at $19, and the gussied-up sandwiches, including a picture-perfect burger with havarti cheese and tomato remoulade, go for $11 or $12. The single-sheet menu is a bit twee, boasting multiple typefaces and copy that runs in three directions; actually easier to read if you fold it in quarters. The interior design has an artistic bent; the two cozy dining rooms are painted dark green, and most seating is at long, communal tables set with Philippe- Starck-inspired chairs made of transparent polycarbonate (a smidge narrow for my keister, which was ready to declare, in Surrealist terms, ceci pas une chaise The eclectic crowd comprises Bucktown locals, Zealous regulars and dolled-up habitues of Lumen nightclub (owners Jason Freiman, Peter Gogarty and Nick Podesta also are Duchamp partners).

Taus, who remains the operator of the rarefied Zealous in River North (that restaurant marked its 15th anniversary recently), now shuttles between there and the 3-month-old Duchamp. He seems to be having fun, but probably just a matter of time before he forgets which restaurant in and terrifies the Duchamp crowd with a $35 lobster special. No, that happened, but Taus did roll out a $7 lobster bisque the other night, a velvety broth crowned with a slab of tempura- fried lobster French version of shrimp toast, seasoned with tarragon. skip the toast next idea, not much but order that soup again in a minute. And reorder the East-West chicken wings, a sort of cross between Asian and American barbecued wings.

The meaty wings, about five pieces, are bathed in a sticky sauce with lemongrass, ginger and jalapeno notes. tasty but messy; we were glad to receive hot towels moments later. The flavor-packed roasted beet salad is like a postcard from Santorini honeymoon (he married in July), a delicious mix of beets, mache, marcona almonds, orange segments and feta cheese. Brussels sprouts with bacon is a small plate that makes a fine side dish. to bouillabaisse is a nice assortment of fish and shellfish in an aromatic Thai-style broth bereft of any heat; those who find Thai curries to be too spicy will warm up to this dish.

What the braised pork shoulder lacks in visual a murky bowl of dark brown meat over wilted spinach set amid a puttanesca-style ragout of tomatoes, anchovy, capers and black more than makes up in soul-nurturing flavor. Another superior fish dish is the roulade of salmon with pear-kohlrabi strudel and a thickened apple-cider nage; the salmon and apple flavors play joyfully together. The and is a cute dish, combining slices of very juicy skirt steak with a flaky bacon-and- gruyere quiche (I remember the last time I had quiche, but been a while). The roasted shallot reduction had a bacon undercur- rent as well. Yummy.

Desserts include a nifty retro platter bearing three miniature chocolate cupcakes and three half- moon ice cream sandwiches (chocolate chip cookie, Tahitian vanilla ice cream), and a flawless caramelized lemon tart, combining the tart lemon flavor with a crunchy caramelized-sugar crust. The wine list is remarkably large for such a modest suspected Taus of raiding his Zealous closet for some choice bottles, but he denies offers some very attractively priced bottles. Moreover, the servers offer thoughtful suggestions on the offerings, including interesting by-the-glass pours. And an art in itself. REVIEW DUCHAMP Artistic eatery is far from a surreal feast A touch of whimsy seasons the and entree, which pairs juicy skirt steak with a bacon-and-gruyere quiche.

Zealous chef creates down-to-earth menu for Duchamp At Duchamp, you may find yourself sitting at one of the communal dining tables on Philippe Starck-inspired chairs. E. JASON WAMBSGANS TRIBUNE PHOTOS Duchamp 2118 N. Damen Ave. 773-235-6434 Open: Dinner brunch Sun.

Entree prices: Credit cards: DS, Reservations: Strongly recommended Noise: Conversation-challenged Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking a flatbread pizza ($11) that will knock you for a (South) loop. Topping the crunchy crust are shortrib meat, manchego cheese, salty-sweet bacon marmalade and horseradish-laced veritable sensory assault. You might hate it. I love it. Mercat a la Planxa, 638 S.

Michigan 312-765-0524. Vettel EAT THIS! Aplay for the senses FAMILY.FRIENDS.TRADITION. THE TRUE MEANINGOFTHANKSGIVING. Extravagant Ballroom Buffet $36.95 adults $14.95 children 4-12 years 12 pm to 5 pm Our Traditional Holiday Menu is available in the restaurant from 12:00 pm 8:00 pm Reservations Highly Suggested 847-664-7999 www.northbrookallgauers.com Located in the Hilton Chicago Northbrook 2855 North Milwaukee Ave. Northbrook, IL 60062 Parties of six or less are welcome in the restaurant.

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groupeventbyNove groupeventbyNove the holiday party that will be talked about for all the right reasons. Product: CTATPLAY PubDate: 10-30-2008 Zone: NS Edition: THU Page: ACDINE-3 User: llsmith Time: Color:.