The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on February 2, 1986 · Page 78
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 78

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Sunday, February 2, 1986
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Page 78
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Travel The Salina Journal Entertainment Sunday, Feb. 2,1986 Page 6 By MARK C. HANSEN The New York Times When the Rev. Eleazer Wheelock, described as a "Connecticut missionary with a mission of civilizing the wilderness," journeyed north to Hanover, N.H., to found Dartmouth College in 1770, pro- miment among his stores was an ample supply of rum. The event — the transport of the rum, that is—has been celebrated ever since in college song, and the image has proved durable. To "many, Hanover still is a frozen north woods outpost that closes its gates at nightfall and returns to the casks and flagons. Well, it isn't anymore. Always admired for its crystalline grace, winter Hanover has in recent years become lively, rum or no rum, and only some it has to do with the old standby, skiing. The floodlit bell tower of Dartmouth's Baker Library has become a campanile for the Upper Connecticut River Valley, a beacon for an array of exhibitions, concerts, plays and movies, as well as lectures and colloquiums, sporting events, restaurants and nightlife to be found in this town of 9,000, excluding students (who currently number 4,300 men and women; Dartmouth became coeducational in 1972). While many of these events flow from the college, they are hardly private. Because of its pastoral setting, and its deep and longstanding involvement in the community, Dartmouth does not draw into an institutional clench at the approach of the public. Almost without exception, what goes on in Hanover is available to anyone. And the exhibits and events are inexpensive (often- free). What's doing in The Hood The big news in town this year is the $12 million Hood, built to house and display some of the 42,000 works of art in the college's permanent collection. Opened by a chorus of praise from critics, the Hood is an elegantly modest, post-modernist formulation in red brick, copper and wintergreen. The celebrated design (by the architect Charles W. Moore and Chad Floyd) makes common cause with two near and very different neighbors — the neo-Romanesque Wilson Hall (an erstwhile curiosity shop) and the high modernist steel and glass facade of the Hopkins Center (designed by Wallace K. Harrison and reportedly something of a maquette for the Metropolitan Opera House, which Harrison designed a bit later). Mark C. Hansen, an assistant United States attorney for the Southern District of New York, is a graduate of Dartmouth College. Hanover Jump, Saturday at the Hanover Country Club. All are free except the ski jump ($3). Call 603446-2428 for times and directions to the events. Skiing MII«S Orford St.-Gaudens Nat'l Historic Site You don't have to ski to enjoy New Hampshire in the winter, but it is an invigorating way to pass the idle Saturday. The White Mountain resorts (Loon, Waterville Valley, Cannon, to name a few) are an hour or two away. Near Lyme, only 15 minutes . from the center of Hanover, and really quite good, is the Dartmouth Skiway. Nordic trails are more abundant: the Hanover Country Club is laced with them (free), and the canopied loops in Oak Hill, in the woods just outside of town, are even prettier (also free). The Hood's diffidence — its blending into the surroundings rather than standing out from them — belies its status as the largest New England museum north of Boston. Remarkably, the Hood incorporates smoothly elements of neo-Georgian design, the shed-roof farmhouse, English manor houses, even New England mills. Inside there are 10 galleries, furnished in light woods and cool gray tones. Displayed in these oblique, distinctive spaces are selections from the college's wide- ranging collection (rotated regularly), from the distinguished set of Asyrian reliefs from the palace of King Ashurnasipral II (including a notable relief of the King himself), which were uncovered in the Nimrud excavations, to Picasso's "Guitar on a Table," to the 17-by-15-foot work of Frank Stella called "Shards m." In addition to the permanent collection, the Hood is mounting a major exhibition, "Winter," in the Jaffe Hall, Friends and Cheatham Galleries, which will feature works by Van Gogh, Pisarro, Winslow Homer and Monet ("Haystacks in the Snow").' The exhibition continues through March 16. An exhibition of contemporary art from India is in the Huntington Gallery through March 2. This winter the Hood is open weekdays and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; closed Monday. Admission is free (call 603-646-2808 for more information). Where to stay The nighttime view of the green and Baker tower from the Hanover Inn is worth the price of admission ($73 to $88 for a double without breakfast, also a ski package at $64 a person a night during the week; call 603-6434300). For more intimate New England inn ambiance, try the Lyme Inn (charmingly idiosyncratic rooms filled with four-poster beds and the occasional gewgaw, $60 to $75 with breakfast, 603-792-2222). One might also try the Moose Mountain Lodge, on a hill outside Etna ($50 a person with all meals, N«w Vofk Tlnrat mop including a hearty country breakfast with home-baked breads; 603643-3529) or the White Goose Inn in Orford (nine rooms, $48 to $62 for a double with breakfast, closed in March, 603-353-4812). Winter carnival This event, which has been described as "the Mardi Gras of the North" — but which really cannot be compared with anything else — is a legendary weekend celebration of the winter. Much of the legend has to do with drink, such as the story of F. Scott Fitzerald's lost carnival weekend (he was in town to write a screenplay about the event). But there is always plenty of good clean fun, such as the massive ice sculptures, hewn to the year's theme (this year,' 'Where the Wild Things Are"). The 76th annual carnival unfolds Thursday through Saturday. Traditional Nordic and Alpine ski races are slated Friday and Saturday with the most colorful event, the Winter Carnival Ski Sightseeing Hanover is a compact village that can easily be circumnavigated on foot, even in winter. On campus, be sure to pass Dartmouth Hall, a faithful replica of the original 18th-century college building, now surrounded in a graceful row by complementary white brick halls. In the basement of Baker Library — the campus centerpiece, are the great murals of the Mexican artist Jose Clemente Orozco. His "Epic of American Civilization" sparked lively debate even before the paint dried, and the murals continue to disturb and inspire. Generations of Dartmouth students, working at the long tables beneath them, have found an ironic counterpoint to their experience in the panel "The Gods of the Modern World" (near the east door), in which skeletal academics in mortarboard and gown preside over the stillbirth of a stunted scholar. Baker is open from 8 a.m. to midnight daily (during spring break, March 5-25, the library closes at 5p.m. Upstairs at Baker is the special collections room, which makes available for public inspection such treasures as the first edition of Audubon's "Birds of America" (the set was Daniel Webster's and is only three-fourths complete because of Webster's non-payment of the naturalist's bills), the Staf- fansson collection of materials on Artie exploration (currently on display, photographs from Peary's polar exploration), Robert Frost's papers, and manuscripts by or relating to authors from Balzac and Yeats. The collection totals 70,000 rare books and five million manu- (See Travel, Page 7)

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