The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on January 26, 1986 · Page 42
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 42

Salina, Kansas
Issue Date:
Sunday, January 26, 1986
Page 42
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Travel The Salina Journal Entertainment Sunday, January 26,1986 Page 6 ByPAULHOFMANN The New York Times An increasing number of Americans are choosing Zurich as then- gateway to Europe, largely because of the security and services at Kloten Airport. This winter many will head from Kloten directly to ski runs in the Alps, but Zurich deserves more than a fleeting visit. The city offers a full opera and concert season, renowned hotels, fine restaurants and the Bahnhof strasse, one of the world's most opulent shopping streets. Getting there Pan American World Airways, Swissair and Trans World Airlines operate daily flights from New York. Kloten, with direct rail connections to Zurich, St. Galley, Winterthur, St. Moritz, Lugano and many other places in Switzerland, coddles passengers with luggage carts that cling to escalators, quick check-in and baggage delivery and comfortable lobbies. The 10-minute train ride between the airport and Zurich's Hauptbahnof (main train station) operates about every 20 minutes in both directions and costs $2, $1 for children. Getting around Sightseeing buses leave from the south side of the station at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. daily. The two-hour tour with an English-speaking guide costs about $8. Tickets for the trolleys and buses are obtained from vending machines at the stops. Short trips within the city core (yellow zone) cost 45 cents; most other trips within the city (blue zone) are 75 cents; trips to the suburbs (red zone) are $1.15. Children under 6 travel free, older children pay 45 cents in the yellow and blue zones, 75 cents in the red zone. A ticket good for one day's unlimited travel costs $2.30. Children particularly like to ride the cable car from Central Square near the train station to the Federal Polytechnic Academy on a ledge overlooking the bohemian Niederdorf section. The ride offers a panoramic view of the city and lake. Cars leave every three minutes: fare: 25 cents, 15 cents for children. Lake boats provide a glimpse of the neat towns around the shore with medieval castles, half- Paul Hoffman, a former correspondent for TheNew York Times, is completing a book on smaller cities and towns in Italy. He lives in Rome. What's doing in Zurich National Museum '"V"'';s0£<& *V'A V ' ^ ^^>>-'<W^; * V'<* - < ^ < * ^ *ss»*, " *** - v ^ -<* * ' - * , '<« v zv "-'• , tr ?Sx* *££^J^<"^ , / '&;*' c3 ? * $ "; \ /& : <^ : :, ^^^^^j^m^ ®l£ ^ - ^ - , &•**: - v ^^ *& * *'^. '4 timbered houses, old churches and modern chalets. A two-hour cruise costs $3.65, $1.80 for children between 6 and 16, smaller children free. Boats depart from the General Guisan-Quai at the southern end of the Bahnhof strasse. Guided bus tours to Lucerne with a cable car trip to Kaltbad (4,400 feet) on Mount Rigi are offered daily until April 6. The bus leaves from the main train station at 1 p.m. and returns the same evening. Fare: $28. Music The Zurich Opera House is in its first full-fledged season since completion of a $37 million project that restored its creamy, turn-of- the-century splendor and added a cubistic annex reaching out toward the lake. The Opera House Ballet will perform "The Miraculous Mandarin" by Bartok on April 5. Opera House tickets range from $2 to $28. The Tonhalle Orchestra performs in the ornate Tonhalle on the west side of the lake. The hall's season included concerts conducted by Cristoph Eschenbach, the orchestra's director, and by such visiting groups as the Beaux Arts Trio, the Lindsay Quartet, the Trio di Milando and the Cleveland Quartet. Among guest soloists will be Alicia de Larrocha, Peter Serkin, Yehudi Menuhin and Andrei Gawrilow. Tickets are $6 to $23. Museums Exhibits recalling the country's prehistory, its Roman period and its military history as well as exhibits of medieval folk art are housed in the Swiss National Mu- York TImM mop seum in a turn-of-the-century castle behind the train station. Especially interesting are reconstructions of peasant and burgher homes with intricately carved furniture. War buffs should appreciate the array of halberds, blunderbusses and armor and the scale models of battles fought on Swiss soil. Also of interest are frescoes dating from the ninth century from a church in the Grisons region and a collection of medieval altar-pieces. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to noon and from 2 to 5 p.m. from Tuesday to Friday and Sunday and from 2 to 4 p.m. Saturday; closed Monday. No entry fee. The Kunsthaus, the modern art museum on the Heimplatz, contains paintings by the Swiss masters Bocklin and Hodler as well as by Cezanne, Degas, Renoir, Ut- rillo, Edvard Munch, Picasso and Pollock and an ample Alberto Giacometti collection. The institution's graphics and photo sections also are especially worthwhile. It is open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday and 2 to 5 p.m. Monday. Entry fee: 90 cents except for special shows which cost from $2.50 to $3.25 The current special show is Scultura Poetica (post- Expressionist sculptures), running to Feb. 16. Graphics by Nicola de Maria starts Jan. 26; drawings by Richard Paul Lohse starts Jan. 31 and works by Gustave Moreau open March 7. The Fraumunster, the 13th century church on the west bank of the Limmat River, contains five Marc Chagall stained-glass windows representing episodes and figures from the Old and New Testaments — Jacob, the Law and Jesus among others. The church is open from 2 to 4 p.m. on Sunday. Across the river stands the Grossmunster, the cathedral where Zwinglik the Protestant reformer, preached. The modern windows in the cathedral choir loft, designed by Augusto Giacometti, depict the Nativity and the Three Wise Men. They can be viewed from 10- a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Saturday and on Sunday after church services to 6 p.m. Eating out For traditional local fare such as geschnetzeltes — minced and creamed veal — or sausages with heaps of potato salad, try the Zeughauskeller, 28A Bahn- hofstrasse, or the old Zunfthaus Zur Waag, 8 Munsterhof, an old artisans' guild headquarters with a rathskeller atmosphere, A hefty dinner for two with Swiss beer or a carafe of Fendant or Dole wine costs about $45 at either place. Chez Max, 53 Seestrasse in the suburb of Zollikon, is one of the country's leading French restaurants. Lunch is served in a new intimate bar as well as the dining rooms, which are bright and elegant, with just a whiff of rustic charm and enough space for privacy. A recent $27 lunch for one consisted of a large slice of smoked salmon followed by lamb with sauteed potatoes and vegetables. Half a bottle of white wine from the Valais and a demitasse were $4.50 extra. Dinner for two with cheese and dessert and a bottle of Swiss or French wine may run $120. Reservations are required. The nine eating places under the same management in the main train station can serve up to 20,000 patrons a day. Its brasserie offers sausage and (See Travel, Page 7)

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