The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on October 12, 1996 · Page 5
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 5

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Salina, Kansas
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Saturday, October 12, 1996
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Page 5
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THE SAUNA JOURNAL FASHION SATURDAY, OCTOBER 12, 1996 AB V AUTUMN ACCESSORIES The Associated Press Heels and handles are among accents In faux tortoise shell on clothing accessories from Moschlno. Accents of tortoise blend well with the animal prints Don't worry, tortoise shell made of resins rather than reptiles By FRANCINE PARNES The Associated Press Tortoise shell accessories are classics, but some seasons seem to accommodate them better than others. This fall and winter, with a multitude of earth tones and animal prints in tailored dressing, the mottled amber and brown ornaments get a thumbs- up. For the squeamish, remember that the tortoise shell, polished as smooth as sea glass, is really made of resins, not reptiles. Search your button drawer and jewelry box for bracelets, buckles, buttons and other baubles. Opt for shell-rimmed sunglasses, maybe a hair clip, too. "Tortoise is coming on very strong as a fashion item, in shades of gold into deep browns," says Carol Hochman, president of .Liz Claiborne Accessories in New York. "It works beautifully, with all of the camels and browns and the rich jewel tones that are hot this season," she says. "So putting on a tortoise belt or carrying a handbag with a tortoise closure really takes last year's apparel and makes it part of this year's fashion message." Among Liz Claiborne accessories are a vinyl shoulder bag in luggage, light tan or black with tortoise buckle, $45 to $54, and a narrow faux-leather belt in black or brown with tortoise buckle, $20. Ralph Lauren's tortoise shell jewelry collection includes bracelets: six bangles, $75, and a cuff, $125; and a cuff with a . sterling silver buckle, $140. LaVelle Olexa, fashion director for Lord & Taylor, says tortoise teamed with silver definitely is new. "In conjunction with a new medium, tortoise is a classic that looks fresh, " she said in New York, adding that she likes to see tortoise shell with the season's darker colors, from espresso to chocolate. Worn with matte silver Chrissy Kern, fashion coordinator for Joslins in Denver, likes the twist of silver tones rather than gold as a companion element. "It's a matte silver, such as the chains that connect on a necklace or a silver bracelet with chunks of tortoise set in," she says. "That's what makes it fresh and new." Plus, it's a natural with all of the animal prints prowling the stores. "Tortoise," Kern says, "would look great paired with other animal print accessories. But if you're not comfortable wearing animal print, the tortoise print is still a great way to get involved with the trend for the season without stepping out too far." Bev Carpenter of Phoenix, special events director for Dillard's, likes to keep things simple when wearing tortoise: white shirt, khaki pants and tortoise shell hoop earrings. "It's just a refined look," she says. "That's how I would wear it." TTOPS Turtlenecks come out of their shell Sharon Stone wore one with a designer ball skirt at the Academy Awards By The Associated Press NEW YORK — The turtleneck, after a long career of supporting roles, gets star billing in a woman's wardrobe this season. "This is the hot year for the turtleneck," knitwear designer Andrea Jovine says. "Right now it's the sleekest, cleanest, neatest layering piece," says Richard Metzger, who designs knits for Dana Buchman. Skinny turtles in luxury yarns showed up in many collections in both Europe and the United States. Among Americans with turtlenecks in their lines: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Isaac Mizrahi and Todd Oldham. But there's hardly a sportswear designer, retailer or mail- order house without a traditional or updated version. The turtleneck, generally thought of as a workhorse, got its start in the 1860s as an added layer of warmth for Britain's polo players. By the 1900s, the jersey neck- nuzzler had arrived in the United States, became part of the uniform for college football teams and served hunters, equestrians and yachtsmen. But the turtleneck was destined for fashion fame. In England, actor-playwright Noel Coward created a style of the 1930s by pairing a turtleneck with a blazer. "According to our research, the stylish turtleneck continued to have success, having graced the Hollywood screens, thanks to such stars as Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Audrey Hepburn in 'Sabrina,' " says Michele B. Casper, a publicist at Lands' End. More recently, Sharon Stone extended the tradition, wearing a designer ball skirt with a black T-neck from the Gap at this year's Academy Awards ceremony. For luxury, nothing beats silk or cashmere. For fashion, let it hug the body. Add a brooch or a chain, or leave it plain. "With all the military details on jackets, it really fits," Metzger says. But the turtleneck also comes out of its shell and stands alone as a must-have topper for the season's slim boot-cut pants and hipster skirts. Andrea Jovine's T-necks are in keeping with the '70s revival theme, "very close-fitting, so it's got a bit of drama to it," she says. Look for them in a bevy of hues, from black to ivory, lime, loden green, pumpkin, charcoal and burgundy, about $98 in ribbed wool. Dana Buchman's silk T-neck, about $128, is available in electric blue, mustard, black and lipstick red. The ultimate in luxury might be TSE's black cashmere turtleneck dress with hem to the ankle, $775. Or Ralph Lauren's double-face cashmere, $550 in heather gray, taupe, navy, charcoal and pale or bright blue. "Right now it's the sleekest, cleanest, 'neatest layering piece." Richard Metzger Knitwear designer Lands' End look Lands' End cashmeres are more within reach of middle America at $139. They are available in a dozen colors including the light heathers, black and white. But the Wisconsin mail-order house does the bulk of its business in classic cotton and cotton blend turtles, currently $15 to $26 apiece. There are no specific numbers, just "millions over the past 12 years." All are traditional fit, so you might want to order a size smaller for an up-to-date look. "We look at the turtleneck as we would look at five or six other key products, like jeans, khaki slacks, a button-down shirt, a T-shirt and navy blazer," says Joe Sirianni, merchandising vice president. "This is a key core product for us. It builds the foundation of a wardrobe." Not bad for a shirt that keeps your neck toasty and is kind to a double chin. One caveat: Because it is tight going over the head, makeup can be an enemy. The Associated Press One of designer Ralph Lauren's takes on the turtleneck Is light and lean, with a belted coat and boot-cut pants. T TRESSES FOR SUCCESS To dye for Follicle-friendly products boost popularity of coloring one's hair By LYNN UNDERWOOD Minneapolis-St. Paul Star Tribune MINNEAPOLIS — Every couple of months, 14-year-old Lisha Behr spends $125 at a salon for fresh blond highlights over an auburn permanent tint. Having her hair dyed has been a regular part of the teen's hair- care routine for the last year. Lisa Disch, 35, a University of Minnesota professor, went from dishwater blond to a deep violet red a year ago and loves it. "It suits my personality," she said. Everyone from teens to seniors is taking to coloring her locks — like dye to a hair shaft. Forget the old connotations of "dye job" and its implication of aging. Or the mystique of "Does she or doesn't she?" In the 1990s, it's "Who did your highlighting?" not "You don't color your hair, do you?" A kaleidoscope of hues, techniques and innovative follicle- friendly products has made hair coloring the fastest growing segment of salon services. Do-it-yourself color In the United States, salon hair coloring and at-home kits have escalated to a $900 million business. Hundreds of boxes of do-it-yourself color kits by Clairol, L'Oreal and others line the walls at drugstores. And with the introduction Hair color history Before the 1950s, women dyed hair to cover up aging gray. Only "fast wornen" or actresses dared to become blondes or redheads. But hair color came put of the closet when Audrey Hepburn's white streak in "Breakfast at Tiffany's" and Marilyn Monroe's Ice blonde changed the image of dyed hair from sexual to acceptable. Dye jobs and frosting soon became salon staples. The late 1960s reversed the trend when hair went au nature! or salons applied hennas, a plant-based dye. In the mid- to late 70s, rebellious London rockers sported fuchsia, lime green and cobalt blue 'dos. It translated into harder-edged, two- toned looks at U.S. salons. of semi-permanent dyes that gradually wash out, the only risk you'll take is going with an outrageous shade. Remember the curly poodle perms of the 1980s? Today that perm wave has been replaced in salons by "color and cut." Techniques used by hair colorists sound straight out of a Beg-O- Magic commercial — they slice, weave, chunk and skunk to add subtle or high-contrast highlights throughout the hair. Coloring can cost upward of $1,000 a year, or you can take on a new tint while cleaning house for as little as $6 with a take-home color kit. Regardless of the process, experts agree that coloring is a norm these days, and it's generally done for a feel-good image. "For some people, like (basketball star) Dennis Rodman, it's to make a statement. For others, it's to mark a change in their life," says Disch. "My mother's generation colored hair to hide their age. Now it's used to assert yourself in a different way." Coloring hair is part of a head- to-toe image, says Jodi Boline, technical director for the creative team at Horst Salons. Hair-color services account for 24 percent of Horst Salon sales, and to date, hair color is up 21 percent from last year. Dyeing one's hair has gradually gained credibility and mass appeal because of color-changing celebrities in movies, music and TV and supermodels such as Linda Evangelista. The Clairol Ul- tress spokesperson has transformed her hair in four shades, from golden blond to cocoa brown. TIN'THE HOME Exercises relieve stiffness while sewing "', Studies have shown sewing as a stress reliever. The right posture, -equipment that fits you and relaxation techniques all can contribute to sewing without physical stress. Bending over can give you a backache when sewing. Having equipment at the right height is very important. For the average person, a sewing table should be .30 inches high. If you are shorter or taller than 5 feet, 5 inches, MARY LOU ODLE KSU-Saline County Extension Agent- Family and Consumer Sciences —, you may need to make adjustments to this measurement. Cutting out a garment or quilt ;-p|eces on the dining room table or • Qn the floor can cause back and "•jpuscle aches. A cutting table 35 to ' 38 inches high helps prevent bending over when cutting. A fold-up cutting table with gate legs takes up only a few inches of space and is a wonderful addition to a sewing area. If you have room to set up a permanent cutting-work table, use two adjustable saw horses and a piece of plywood to make an inexpensive table at a the right height. Invest in an adjustable sewing chair. If you let yourself slouch, you are likely to start feeling stiff and sore. Adjust your chair height so your bent forearms are parallel to the floor from the elbow to the sewing table. Keep your head and neck upright and your feet flat on the floor. Support your back by adjusting the chair so it fits snugly against your back. Even with the right sewing equipment at the right height, tired eyes and a stiff neck or tight shoulder still may occur. The right moves can help prevent all these common problems. Just take a few minutes away from your sewing project to loosen up your muscles. These easy exercises will keep you alert and make a big difference in how you work and feel. Repeat themthree times. « Eyes: Rest elbows on a table. Cup hands and place them lightly over your closed eyes. Hold one minute while you breathe deeply in and out. • Neck and head: Sit up straight and turn head to the left and look over your left shoulder. Hold for a few seconds then return to the center. Repeat for the right side. • Shoulders: Slowly raise shoulders toward your ears and hold for a few seconds. Slowly bring shoulders back down and relax. Put hands up with forearms raised. Push your arms back, squeezing your shoulder blades. Now hold for a few seconds. Relax and take a deep breath. • Back: Sit up straight with feet flat on floor and imagine you have a rope attached to the top of your head. Take a deep breath as you imagine the rope pulling you up higher and higher. Hold your breath a few seconds, then relax and breathe out. • Wrists, hands, and fingers: Hold arms in front of you and make a gentle fist. Point your knuckles toward the floor and hold a few seconds. Straighten your fingers and point them down. Feel the stretch in your lower arms. Slowly point your fingers up toward the ceiling. Hold for a few seconds. Relax and drop your arms by your sides. Gently shake out your arms and hands. Take a few minutes every half- hour to one hour to stretch and relax. Salina Journal Buckle up with chic NEW YORK — The belt is always with us, to hold up pants if for nothing else. But it's also being used now to give a new look to jackets and to cinch long skinny sweaters even closer to the body.. Two kinds of belts are fashionable right now: leather with a signature buckle in the Gucci tradition, and metallic mesh in the style of Chanel. Mesh belts look best with jackets or sweaters, while the leather belts work with just about anything. Designer jean returns At a time when status designer accessories are enjoying new popularity, it is inevitable that designer jeans would make a comeback. And the best-selling jeans at both Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale's carry the Versace Jeans Couture label. "This is a very hot moment for designer jeans," said Kalman Rut- tenstein, vice president for fashion direction at Bloomingdale's. "The Versace jeans have a very special look and tight fit, and this is a year of tighter pants." Best sellers at Bloomingdale's are jeans in black stretch scuba fabric ($225), black vinyl ($210), black or white stretch satin ($265), and stretch denim ($170) and regular denim in black, cobalt, yellow and orange ($150). From Wire Service Reports Your Total News Source f 3a Salina Journal, I ' i For Results You Can Measure, Try the Salina Journal Classlfiedsl Rain Or Shine The Salina Journal comes to your door every day, rain or shine. No matter what the weather, the Salina Journal is there for you! Brunch Buffet llam-2pm Retired Senior Citizens Receive $1.00 Off Sunday Brunch Buffet Breakfast Buffet Lunch Buffet Monday - Friday IL'OOam • l:30pm 1616 W. Crawford • Salina. KS • 823«171Q

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