The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on October 12, 1996 · Page 4
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 4

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Salina, Kansas
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Saturday, October 12, 1996
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Page 4
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A4 SATURDAY. OCTOBER 12, 1996 FASHION THE SALINA JOURNAL AFTER A FASHION In the Army Now r Civilian women really ; need the Pentagon's | new sizing system Back in the early 1940s, a typically sexist cartoon showed two attractive young women, one ex- PATRICIA MCLAUGHLIN Universal Press Syndicate plaining to the other why she'd just joined the WACS or the WAVES: "Honey, have you seen those suits?" There was a grain of truth in it: The first U.S. military uniforms for women were pretty fabulous. The WAVES uniforms were de* signed by the legendary couturier Mainbocher, whose surviving suits and evening gowns are museum pieces. Hattie Carnegie, at the time one of the biggest names in American fashion, designed the first women's uniforms for the Air Force. Back then, apparently, this wasn't such a big departure from the norm. An exhibition at the Museum of the City of New York last year included a 1918 YWCA Overseas Uniform from Worth in Paris, and Scott Fitzgerald had his WWI uniforms — one of which he probably met Zelda in r. — custom-tailored at Brooks ^Brothers. But civilian control of military " uniform design was a flash in the pan. For better or for worse, the function was militarized, bureaucratized and acronymized. For _. decades, women's uniforms were designed and manufactured by a separate industry that paralleled — but in some respects developed quite differently from — the civilian ladies' garment industry. On the civilian side, for instance, creeping size inflation made one generation of women after another feel a little better about gaining weight in middle age. If she were lucky enough to be - able to buy expensive clothes as "she aged, a woman who wore a 12 in her 20s could gain 30 pounds and still wear a (considerably bigger) 12 in her 40s. Maybe even a 10. Meanwhile, on the military side, uniform sizes stayed the same size because the military didn't have to flatter female soldiers to persuade them to buy uniforms. Even so, as military - and civilian sizing diverged, military women began to complain. A colonel whose favorite Liz Claiborne blazer was a size 8 might well experience a negative impact -on morale when she had to buy a size 14 uniform jacket. In addition, women in the T COLOR Universal Press Whether your hips measure 36 Va or 40% inches, you can still be a 10 in a military uniform. Army complained that their uniforms were too narrow in the shoulders, too tight in the sleeves, too billowy through the body. Some women found that, whenever they raised their right arms to salute, their uniform overblouses hiked up to expose a slice of belly. It took the cooperation of more acronym-identified subgroups within the services than you'd want to shake a stick at to solve these problems, but the result is women in the military are the first American women in probably close to a century to be able to buy clothes by their actual body measurements, as men have always been able to. Initially, the Army made a good-faith effort to figure out what civilian dress sizes really meant, according to Major Julia Cook, project officer for women's Army uniforms. They collected size specifications from more than a dozen civilian clothing manufacturers, but when they compared them, they discovered what experienced shoppers know — that sizes mean nothing, zip, nada. One manufacturer's 8 can be bigger than another's 11. So they ended up testing a new sizing system based on numbers from a Navy anthropometric (i.e., person-measuring) study, which tested so well that it's become the standard for all the services. Since the military — unlike, say, Calvin Klein — can't afford to brush off women with waists that are "too big" for their hips, or hips too big for their waists, they built in some flexibility. Army uniform skirts now come in nine different size 10s for differently proportioned women: All have 28- inch waists, but there's a junior 10 with 36 % -inch hips, a misses' 10 with 38 a /2-inch hips, and a women's 10 with 40 % -inch hips, and all three come in petite, regular and tall. The result: Women in the Army now find themselves in a situation civilians can only dream about. When they need new clothes, they can look at a size tag and know whether the garment will fit, unlike the rest of us, who have to try everything on. (They also have new tuck-in-able shirts that let them salute without worrying.) Who says military intelligence is an oxymoron, like jumbo shrimp? Fall fashion goes on brown binge Another fad from 70s makes comeback with '90s sophistication By BARBARA DE WITT - Los Angeles Dally News LOS ANGELES — Slinky dress. es of mocha velvet and cham- » pagne-colored ball gowns. Camel Speacoats, golden brown tweeds, .*'chocolatey suede skirts, bronze * blouses, accents of metallic lace 1-. and tufts of topaz-tinted feathers. *'.. Welcome to the Browns Age in fashion. The latest '70s fad to make a comeback, brown has been refined, redefined and reinvented, say designers, from Chanel to Calvin Klein to Liz Claiborne, who .. showed plenty of it in their fall 1 previews. • < The tones varied, but the overall effect was elegant, long and lean with a hip, '90s attitude, so forget the hippie beads and Birken- stocks. At Chanel, designer Karl Lagerfeld used hues of beige, brown and russet, scoffing at convention by So you wanna wear brown? To get into the Browns Age, color expert Jill Kirsh of the Color Co., a beauty and fashion consulting firm in North Hollywood, offers the following wardrobe advice based on the seasonal palettes of the Color Me Beautiful system: * Autumn: Celebrity typecasting* Nicole Kidman, Cindy Crawford. Hair colon Red, auburn, or brown with red highlights. Best browns for you; Rust, cinnamon, ginger or nutmeg. • Spring: Celebrity typecasting: Sharon Stone, Goldie Hawn. Hair color: Golden blond or brown, strawberry blond. Best browns for you: Camel, honey, rum and toast. • Summer: Celebrity typecasting; Heather Locklear, '* : Donna Mills, Linda Evans, Hair color; Ash blond or J>rovy,h.^' • ;•,< Best for you: Taupe, mocha, pink- or gray-toned browns. *• • Winter: Celebrity typecasting:'Fran Drescher, Connie .,', Selleca, Diana Ross. Hair color: Black or rrtedlum to^dark' -,% brown. ' '''**->'*,} fi~' ,'> Best browns for you: Dark, cool browns, such as espresso and bittersweet chocolate. combining brocade and lame with tweeds — for day wear. Calvin Klein, in his fall preview report, heralds the upcoming season as a "return to dark, rich colors that flow together almost imperceptibly in the manner of American abstract expressionists Mark Rothko and Ad Reinhardt." He mixes sable and slate, accents chocolate with plum and calls it a "modern way of color-blocking." Liz Claiborne calls brown essential — but never basic — when interpreted in complementary hues, ranging from espresso to chocolate to mocha and paired with pumpkin. At the annual trend forecast by the Fashion Association held in New York, everybody was singing the browns. Sears spokesman Ken Walters predicted fall to be a season of tonal dressing, focusing on taupes, browns and camel, as well as that new-again classic, khaki. Others, including trend analyst Leon Hall, went so far as to call camel the new neutral. rar;cr;r.T_T_ra^ NOTICE! i Security Savings Bank F.S.B. Capitol Federal Savings -WILL BE CLOSED- Monday, October 14th in Observance of Columbus; Day GRAND OPENING THE EDGE 1334 W. NORTH SALINA' ONLY EXOTIC DANCE CLUB UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT ******************** DART TOURNAMENT 501 DRAW/S3 ENTRY BAR MATCH/100% PAYBACK SIGN UP BY 1:00... PLAY STARTS AT 2:00 ******************** POOL TOURNAMENT 8 BALL/$2 ENTRY/BAR MATCH 100% PAYBACK SIGN UP BY 2:00... PLAY STARTS AT 3:00 ******************** DANCERS FROM ALL OVER KANSAS STARTS AT 7:00 $5 COVER SAT. OCT. 12 10:00 AM TO ?? FREE FOOD!!! 18 TO ENTER/21 TO DRINK T SEW SIMPLE Cardigan jacket slenderizes figure EUNICE FARMER King Features Dear Eunice Farmer: I am in need of a jacket pattern with slenderizing lines, not fitted. My job requires * casual clothes — jackets that can be worn with skirts as well as pants. Most jackets end up looking like a shapeless box. Help! — Diana W. Dear Diana: I think you will like McCall 8060, sized 8-26. It isn't perfectly straight because of a fitting seam over the bust and a seam at the center back. The jacket, with its contrasting banding down the front, calls attention to the center and not the width. If you are not slender in the hips, eliminate the pockets with the contrasting trim. If you insist on a pocket, use a buttonhole-type pocket that is less bulky and more invisible. This cardigan-type jacket is simple to make (two hours, according to the pattern), but allow more time than that for a perfect job! Dear Eunice Farmer: I just got our winter clothes out of the closet and found that my children's coats and one of my sport jackets need work at the cuffs. They are still wearable. What can I do to repair the cuffs for another year? — Mildred B. Dear Mildred: A simple solution is to apply a fold-over braid to the .worn edges. You can also purchase an inch or two of Ultra-suede and use this for a 1/2 inch fold-over binding. For your jacket, if you carry this trim to another part of the jacket, such as the collar or belt, it won't look like it was Pattern: McCall 8060 added to the original. (This leather-type trim also works on a man's casual jacket, perhaps adding elbow patches for that casual, sporty look.) . Dear Eunice Farmer: I wonder if anyone else has the same problem I have when I try to sew snaps on my garments. How do I keep them from slipping out of place as I try to sew them on? — Rhodabel D. Dear Rhodabel: Just touch the underside of the snaps with your glue stick, and they will stay in place until you sew them on. You can find this product in .all fabric stores, and you'll find many other uses for it. Farmer is a nationally recognized authority on sewing. She is an author, teacher, lecturer and fashion reporter. DICKINSON THEATRES MICHAEL DOUGLAS VAL KILMER PREY FOR THE HUNTERS THE GHOST AND THE DARKNESS Fri. (*4:45)-7:00-9:20 E Sat. (*2:15-*4:45)-7:00-9:20 Sun.(*2:15-*4:45)-7:00 Mon.-Thurs. (*5:00)-7;20 ^ THE GLIMMER MAN Mid-State. Frl.('4:50)-7:05-9:15 Sat. C2:20-'4:50)-7:05-9:15 Sun. C2:20-'4:50)-7:05 Mon.-Thura. ('S:05)-7:15 BEENA DAVIS SAMUEL L JACKSON What's forgotten is not always gone. THE LONG KISS GOODNIGHT Sunset Frl. C4:30)-7:00-9:30 Sat. C2:00-'4:30)-7:00-9:30 Sun.('2;00-'4:30)-7:00 Mon-Thure. C5:00)-7:30 Frl.-Sat. 7:15-9:35 Sun. 7:15 Mon.-Thura. 7:15 THE MIGHTY Frl.('4:36)-7:05-9:20 Sat. C2:05-*4:35)-7:05-9:20 Sun.('1:55-'4:00h6:00 Mon.-Thura. C6:05>-7:20 [Sunset /] Vl il H " ' • I I'M i Central Mall/ \Mtf PICTURES Presents FIRST KID r Frl. (-4:45) Sat.-Sun.('2:16-'4:45) Mon.-Thur«.('5:1S) THE CHAMBER [[Central Mall/] ITm I -'"-"^MMMPTHTJ CHRIS O'DONNELL GEHE HACKMAN IE Frl. (*4:30)-7:00-9:30 Sat. C2:00-'4:30)-7:00-9:30 Sun. ('2:00-'4:30)-7:00 Mon.-Thura. C5:00>-7:30 FIRST WIVES Frl. (M:40)-7:10-9:20 Sat. (*2:10-*4:40)-7:10-9:20 Sun. ('2;10-'4:40)-7:10 Mon.-Thurs. ('5:10)-7:20 One of the best films this year. "A brightly entertaining blend of humor and heartbreak" peter tr«»«r«, r«*ng (torn f Central Mall / J Frl. ('4:35)-7:05 • 9:25 Sat. ('2:06-'4:35)-7:05-9:25 - ;*2:Q5-*4:35)-7:06 MoivThurf. (*6:05j-7:25 Wo'vo cjono worlcl wiclo woL>! WWW clu l< IIIMMItlictltl i:', I inn N.-w L>i<km>uii llu.-utic.-s I'oliiy No iliildii-n I y. H. u.idui ..;.<- iilluw,-d , uodltt.HUim il.owimj I'G 13 & R ruled movu.-s ufU;l 6.0O |) in $riow S 3 75 £«mng b 5 50 Children. Stnioi> s 3 50 2J Hour Siiowlmt W-9105 ,/Htann

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