The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on October 5, 1996 · Page 5
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 5

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Saturday, October 5, 1996
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THE_SA!-INA JOURNAL FASHION SATURDAY, OCTOBER 5, 1996 AB V FABRIC The velvet touch Fabric offers feminine feel for fall '96 By SUZANNE S. BROWN Scripps Howard News Service DENVER — Once always made of silk and reserved for the wealthy to wear on special occasions, velvet has become a mainstream material for day as well as night. The thick-pile fabric has enduring appeal because it's soft yet rich-looking, and well-suited for mixing with traditional fall woolens and knits. "The whole feel for fall is feminine and luxurious, so velvet fits that mood," says Linda Brinkman, a department store fashion manager. "It's soft and pretty, and that's what women are looking for this fall." She says velvet is selling well and that many items already have been reordered. "You can use velvet in the rich jewel tones as an accessory item, such as a vest, or more prominently in a long, luxurious skirt," she says. "When it's mixed with a little Lycra or spandex, it holds its shape so it's great for casual or weekend wear." American designers on a luxury kick used velvet liberally in their fall collections along with leather, suede and cashmere. But not all of the fashion creators opted for pricey imported versions of the fabric. Many used lower-priced velour made of cotton, wool or synthetics. Technology has helped velvet become a much more affordable and versatile material. At Target, a Sostanza mock turtleneck dress in velour, for example, sells for $23. Adding stretch to velvet and velour means that the fabric can be used in more ways, such as in pants, skirts and leggings. Ralph Lauren's new Lauren line features velour leggings for $68. Yeohlee used stretch velvets in second-skin jump- suits and separates. Velvet for daytime wear is being promoted by designers who cater to career and casual customers. A sampling of what's available with approximate prices: Ellen Tracy plum-colored velvet skirt, $225, and top, $155, Scripps Howard News Service Designer Yeohlee used stretch velvet In this mandarin collar dress to help it keeps its shape. worn with a wool jacket, $355; Liz Sport's washed velvet vest, $66, worn over a floral print skirt, $80, and blouse, $62; and for more casual occasions, a Jones New York Sport quilted velvet jacket, $139; or DKNY Jeans jumper, $165. For those who want just a touch of velvet, trims on collars are a classic way to pull off the look. There's no dearth of velvet for evening occasions. In her DKNY collection, Donna Karan offers ice-colored velvet pantsuits, stretch velvet dresses, chenille robes over velvet pants. The look calls to mind something a British musician would have worn in the early 1970s. Ralph Lauren was on the same wave length, referring to his version of the style as "Savile Row Rocker." He tailored cotton velvet into evening pantsuits with long fitted jackets or coats worn over body- suits. Variations on velvet Many fabrics with a soft pile surface are referred to as ; velvet, but here's how Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion sorts'It out; '• V ;.;,'•. ', . > • Velvet: originally made of silk but now also in artifi- , cial fibers, with a short, soft thick pile surface of looped warp yarns on plain or twilhweave ground. • Velour: softthick pile fabric made in all cotton yarns, all wool yarns or cotton warp and silk or mohair filling. • Velveteen: cotton or rayon pile fabric oh plain or twill backing, woven singly, loops cyt making a soft surface. • Crushed velvet: irregular, bark-like surface, • Panne velvet: pile pressed jn one direction. • Cut velvet: brocaded fabric woven on a jacquard loom with pattern made by velvet pile, on a sheer ground, such as chiffon; used for evening dresses. V WARDROBE prance allows broader definition of beauty IjJBy NARA SCHOENBERG l'«Tlie Toledo Blade Tired of ever-more-youthful 'j fashion models, friends who never .feave the gym, diets that never end? You know where you can go. •'. To France. ,' It's not that the French don't care about beauty. (Au contraire!) But, like many people around the ^world, they define attractiveness ii'n broader and more forgiving than their American coun- l^tier parts. *'£•' "Yes, there's the youth beauty, but there's a\so much more of an appreciation for an older beauty as well," says French Vogue fashion editor Debra Scherer. As for the super-young, super- thin, super-toned beauty ideal exemplified by, say, uber-waif Kate Moss, Scherer says, "I'm not going to say the idea doesn't exist (in France), but it's definitely not as strong as in the United States. The United States always seems to go a little overboard with everything." Indeed, beauty may be just another area of American life in which the Puritan work ethic .^leads us to try harder (think Stair faster), aim higher (think Cindy Jjprawford) and then beat up on "^cjurselves when we don't achieve Berfection. (Diet, anyone?) In Paris, it's still easy as pie to et pastries made with real butter. ,0f course, women watch their height. But there's not this craziness of buying a ... no-fat cake," says Scherer. Which is not to say that you're unlikely to spot a Parisian woman walking down the street in sweat pants — or questioning her own desire to look good. "French women are into the whole goddess myth, still," Scherer says. "You're certainly never looked down on for thinking that way." It's just that fitness isn't emphasized as much as it is in the United States. Getting a massage ranks just as high as getting to the gym. Inexpensive updates add texture, color Ribbed-pattern tights kick fall wardrobes into glamour gear By BARBARA BRADLEY Scripps Howard News Service NEW YORK — Get a leg up on fashion this fall with a pair of colored tights or opaque stockings, either plain or textured. Tights pack a lot of style punch and are among the easiest and least expensive ways to give your wardrobe a facelift. Other ways to update range from pantsuits to animal print scarves. In their fall collections, New York designers often used opaque stockings and tights to create unexpected and sometimes wild mixes of texture and color. Cynthia Rowley paired lace stockings with leather dresses and black and white print dresses with stockings in pink, purple and green. Richard Tyler paired dark velvet coats and dresses with tights and leggings in fierce orange and sludge green. You can make your long, dark-skirted suits more fun with a flash of color or texture at the leg. Or make your short suits look newer with the head-to- toe polish of a turtleneck and tights in the same color. Tights by Hue come in every neutral shade, plus traditional fall colors such as burgundy, forest and brown, and fashion colors including lime green, orange and camel for $9.50 to $14. DKNY's collection includes heavier weight tights in cable and ribbed patterns for $12.50 and thinner tights in crochet looks for $11.50. While tights cost more than sheer stockings, they also last longer. Here are other suggestions for updating Scripps Howard News Service "Just one piece, such as an animal print scarf, will change the whole look of a dress or a suit" Connie Nash Loehmann's, a clothing store your wardrobe: "I'd mix a lot of texture.s to create something unexpected," recommends Andrea Shell, a store manager for The Limited. To spruce up your plaids and denims, add lush pieces such as a velour or velvet T-shirt or a wide- wale corduroy jacket. Strive for fresh color combinations such as brown with vivid blue or or ange. Or try a tone-on-tone combination such as camel, chocolate and brown. "The pantsuit is so hot, and you can find a style for every figure," says Laura Cervone, spokesman for the T. J. Maxx chain. The trendiest look is the long and lean blazer paired with slim pants. But a short jacket with full pants is just as smart. Or try a sporty zip-front jacket and trousers. Loehmann's Inc. can't keep its animal print scarves in the store. "Just that one piece will change the whole look of a dress or suit," says Connie Nash, an associate manager. While skin prints remain huge, animal figures offer a new twist. One of the store's hottest scarves is a square with green-eyed tiger faces. They sell for about $25 to $35 each. "One thing really new that we're selling a lot of is the jumpsuit," says Elizabeth Galfsky, partner in Elizabeth Edwards'. "Everything is dressed down now. People like the way you can just put them on in the morning and go." Zip-front, belted jumpsuits by Kay Unger come in cotton and Lycra knit in chocolate, navy or animal prints for $300. Slinky, shiny T-shirts and tunics are taking over at J.C. Penney, says Barbara Twyford, a senior merchandise manager. "People are looking for something different, and these tops feel really good." The soft, slightly stretchy tops, in polyester, nylon and rayon or blends of those fabrics give a new look to suits and work well with jeans and patterned pants. They're offered in mostly neutral colors and cost from about $18 to $49. T FACIAL FEATURES Face it: There's one shape you can't change If yours is squareish, go for drop earrings to accent vertical line By FRANCINE PARNES The Associated Press LOS ANGELES — Jay Leno's jutting chin. Cher's sculpted cheekbones. Roseanne's round cheeks. All are facial features worthy of the tabloids. Yours may not make headlines, but face shapes make a difference when choosing makeup, hair styles, necklines and jewelry. There are four basic face shapes — round, heart-shaped, oval and square. If you can't be objective about yours, tie your hair back, put your face to amirror, and draw an outline with a grease pencil. "A heart-shaped face is broader across the forehead and narrows to the chin," says Paula Kaatz of Los Angeles, the costume supervisor for "Relativity," a new ABC- TV show for fall. "An oval face is a pretty obvious egg shape, the one you learn in art school," she says. "It's also the traditional Renaissance ideal. Somebody, probably a de Medici or Michelangelo, decided that. "And round and square faces have the same or similar width at the jaw line and forehead." The point is, .when choosing jewelry, there are few universally flattering styles. No chokers on short necks, "Y" necklaces on long necks or V-shape necklaces on a heart-shaped face. The latter merely repeats the sharp, angular line of the chin. On the other hand, says Lynn Ramsey, president of the Jewelry Information Center in New York, jewelry carefully chosen can accentuate the positive and reduce the negative. "Larger and more prominent earrings will set off cheekbones and eyes." Paula Kaatz costume designer "Vertical lines and diagonal lines slim and elongate a face," she says, "while horizontal lines such as hoops or very wide earrings or chokers broaden and shorten a face." So when buying fine jewelry, in particular, you may want to take the advice of a reputable jeweler. And whether it's fine jewelry or faux, you may want some shopping tips from stylists to the stars. "If you have a short neck, you might give yourself a more length by wearing something that sits a little lower on the collarbone and forms a vee rather than a tight circle," says Molly Harris Campbell, costume designer for "Beverly Hills, 90210." "And if you have a long neck, you can shorten it with three strands of pearls done up high." One thing about "90210," Campbell says, is that the girls are pe- tite. "So frequently we seek smaller-scale, delicate necklaces and earrings for their faces." Paula Kaatz, the costume designer, likes to experiment with big pieces of costume jewelry now that hair styles are highlighting the face. "Because hair is pulled back off the face, both in up-dos and in shorter cuts, earrings are getting larger and more prominent," she says, adding that designers in Paris and New York are showing earrings in great clumps and clusters. "Hoops are growing and getting wider, and big drop earrings are starting to come back." That, she says, is good news for people with oval or heart- or diamond-shaped faces. "Larger and more prominent earrings will set off cheekbones and eyes." If your face is squareish, she says, go for length, such as long drop earrings or long thin hoops to accentuate the vertical line. But large hoops are a no-no on a round face because they create repetition of the face shape. Salina Appliance Showroom 740 N. Ninth, Salina »(973) 827-1420 Manual Transmission & Transfer Case WAREHOUSE Replacement Parts For JEEP • FORD • CHEV • ' SPICER* DANA Power Train Components Distributor f • | • 729 N. Santa Fe • m|» 7 C Salina, KS • 1111% 9 913-827-6204 AUTO REPAIR & 4 WHEEL DRIVE SHOP 12 packs 29* 3 2 liters 09* 1 1820 S. 9th Street Salina, KS Prices good thrpugh October 8th, 1996. Daily 8:00 am to 10:00 pm Sunday: 11:00 am to 7:00 pm Heritage Hall

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