The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on October 5, 1996 · Page 4
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 4

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Salina, Kansas
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Saturday, October 5, 1996
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Page 4
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SATURDAY. OCTOBER 5, 1996 FASHION THE SALINA JOURNAL V AFTER A FASHION Destigmatizing trousers O n the evening of Sept. 18, 1851, a Philadelphia gentleman named J. Warner Erwin went — as he later noted In his diary — "to Exhibition of * Horticultural "Society" and Stbund that "The ^display was not ^near so fine as I «»have seen on for£T mer occasions; 5* the grapes, j;'though, were very «fine. The rooms «were crowded, some four or females were «*-. PATRICIA MCLAUGHLIN Universal Press Syndicate * •^•attired in the — '•-'Bloomer cos- £ tume' attracting much attention :,.:and many remarks. This costume '"has been but recently intro- ivduced, but I think it will never become general." He was half right. Bloomers, ^,,the first American attempt at "^trousers for women, designed by Tand named for the American feminist Amelia Jenks Bloomer in 1849, were full Turkish-style trousers gathered in at the ankle and worn under a matching knee-length dress with a full skirt. As Erwin predicted, they never really caught on. Bicycling In knickers • It wasn't until the bicycling craze of the 1890s that women in any numbers began to wear pants, and the pants they began j/;to wear were knickers "so full ..that they lack all indecorous suggestion," according to Alison x'Gernsheim's "Victorian and Ed. j,wardian Fashion." For female cyclists to wear .; trousers was daring — conserva- ,' tive women wore special skirts that buttoned around the legs — . but for female pedestrians it was a crime. In 1895, according to Valerie Steele's "Paris Fashion," the Paris Prefect of Police issued an edict forbidding women to ^','wear trousers except when rid- "ing bicycles. Bohemians like George Sand and, later, dandified lesbians like Una Troubridge, who had her portrait painted in men's evening clothes and a T MEN'S FASHIONS Trousers in the workplace no longer raise eyebrows, but would you wear them to a job interview? Universal Press Women who are very comfortable in pants still reserve dresses for their most serious occasions. monocle, defied the law. Trousers had been so thoroughly identified with men that it seemed unnatural, wrong, even perverse for women to wear them. For the same reason, women had only begun in 1800 to wear underdrawers, which, according to Pearl Binder's "Muffs and Morals," "were regarded then as utterly depraved, unnat- ural and vicious, a corrupting assumption of masculinity, another fearsome result of the French Revolution." At first, in France, only actresses wore them, as, in Venice, only prostitutes had — and, in both cases, they were worn because they were scandalous, not in spite of it. Trousers on women seemed racy as late as the 1930s, when movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Katharine Hepburn were photographed wearing them. My mother remembers that her grandmother thought the girl next door would go to hell for wearing culottes in her own back yard. OK for factory workers Rosie the Riveter and the rest of the women who replaced male factory workers during World War II made wearing trousers more respectable, as long as you had a good excuse such as a welding job. As late as the 1960s, dress codes of some American colleges and universities forbade women to wear trousers on campus, and restaurants that required men to wear coats and ties often required ladies to wear skirts. Yves Saint Laurent championed trousers for dress as well as for casual wear in the late 1960s. In a ploy reminiscent of the bloomer costume, he often showed them under tunics, and Women's Wear Daily reported that a woman denied admission to a fancy French restaurant in New York because she was wearing a pair of Saint Laurent's trousers simply took them off, and went in to lunch in her tunic. Only a few years ago, a story in Vogue by Cathy Horyn, then fashion editor at The Washington Post, reported that many women in top corporate jobs avoided wearing pants lest they be perceived as unconventional or masculine. But last year, a story in The Wall Street Journal by Teri Agins, the Journal's fashion reporter, concluded that women executives are now wearing pants even "in some of the stodgiest corners of the American workplace." Just as well, since they'll be everywhere this fall. Except maybe at job interviews. Even women who assume they're completely liberated still have faint subconscious reservations about wearing pants for life's most serious occasions. It's the last surviving trace of my great-grandmother's expectation that the girl next door would go to hell. Far-out menswear becomes stylish Big, floppy collars, ultraskinny neckties, maxi-coats interest new generation of fellas By The Associated Press Some men's fashions are so far out, they have become in. These styles, Woody Hochswender wrote in , an Esquire article, never completely die and ' return periodically with a new twist or flare. ijhort sleeves are high-on the new in-list. '' Straight from the control room of "Apollo 13," they have not been in fashion for dress shirts or sweaters for many years. But now they are geek chic for a generation that likes to hang out on the Internet. Among the designers reviving them are Dolce & Gabbana and Calvin Klein. The maxi-coat was introduced in 1968, and evokes the glory days of Broadway Joe Na- math and Times Square flesh peddlers. Lately, designers such as Gucci favor the maxi for T BUYING HABITS both men and women. Francesco Smalto of Paris designed a fur-lined version. The maxi- coat's big drawback: it makes it hard to navigate subway stairs. Other styles are: • Boot-cut pants. Time changes all things, including flare-bottomed trousers. They are now part of an overall trend toward exchanging fullness at the top of trousers, such as pleats, for fullness at the bottom — flares or boot legs. Today's versions are slimmer and more tailored than the old-fashioned models and often are made with stretch fabrics. The new boot- cut trousers, like those designed by Richard Tyler, are not for everybody, but they add a smashing look to dress up gray flannel. • Remember the safari suit? Variations on the safari or bush jacket, with four flapped patch pockets, were popular back in the '70s, when they often boasted a belted "action back." An unbelted version appeared in the fall 1996 collection of Gianfranco Ferre. It will go beautifully with your Range Rover. • School ties. The school — or regimental- stripe tie, with its connotations of privilege and tradition, is being revived by some of-the most untraditional fashion houses, from Costume Homme to Dolce & Gabbana. The '90s versions tend to be ultraskinny and more bad boy than old boy. • Big, floppy collars. The shirt-collar-outside-the-jacket look was immortalized by John Travolta and considered so demode in recent years that men's designers seemed bent on eliminating collars altogether with the band- collar shirt. Now Travolta is back, and so is the classic bridge-and-tunnel look, from Dolce & Gabbana and others. • Oxblood leather. Unless you had the foresight to burn them, your old Ban-Lon shirts, Haggar self-belted slacks and battered red leather jackets are being enthusiastically snapped up by young men descending on vintage-clothing stores throughout the land. Cordovan-leather coats, like the one offered by Richard Tyler, are especially hot. You may shudder at the thought that you once wore the look, but a new generation wants to flaunt it. §As women spend less, men spend more on clothing .By The New York Times NEW YORK — Even as women are spending less on clothing, men are spending more. Between 1991 and 1995, retail sales of men's apparel rose 16 percent, according to Tactical Retail Solutions, a market research firm in New 'York. To be sure, that rise has not been as fast as the increase in personal spending as a whole, meaning men, like women, are also devoting a smaller part of their budget to clothing. But the numbers for men look better than those for women, for several reasons. Men have been buying more casual clothes for the office, with khaki pants, sport coats and trousers, knit shirts and penny loafers replacing suits, dress shirts and wing tips. "One of the areas of biggest growth is sportswear," said J. Stanley Tucker, a senior vice president and fashion director for men at Saks Fifth Avenue. Also buoying the men's market is the mirror. Many men who once paid little attention to clothes are now feeling growing pressure to look fit and fashionable in a culture that still prizes youth, many fashion and retailing experts agree. But even with men's recent gains, women still outspend men by a lot. Retail sales of women's clothing last year totaled $73 billion, Tactical reported, while men spent $40 billion. Ducks Unlimited Banquet Oct. 8th Holidome Social Hour 5:30 today only T SEW SIMPLE Shirtwaist dress has modified raglan sleeves EUNICE FARMER King Features Dear Eunice Farmer: I would like to make a shirtwaist dress. Is there such a simple pattern without * too much tailoring? — Madge P. Dear Madge: Yes, the shirtwaist dress is probably more popular today than ever before. It's a go- anywhere. dress. I have selected Vogue Basic Design 1441, sized 8-24. Various features of this pattern make it easy and versatile. The sleeve is a modified raglan that fits close to the underarm without the usual fullness of a true raglan. The cuffs are simple instead of the shirt cuffs. The collar has three versions, including a convertible collar that can also become a Peter Pan style. The best part is it has three lengths and two different styles, including a chemise-type dress and a fuller skirt. This one- piece dress can be worn belted or straight. Dear Eunice: I have trouble applying fusibles as interfacings. Either they don't stick after awhile, or they form bubbles on my garment fabric. I'm afraid to use a hot iron because it might damage the fabric. This seems to be the only type of interfacing available. — Carey T. Dear Carey: The problems most women have with fusibles is that they don't use enough heat or moisture for the fusible to actually melt into your fabric. I place my fusible on the fabric to be fused, place a press cloth on top of this, spray with water so it is damp (but not drenched) and press with a fairly hot iron. Hold the iron in place for 10 seconds and move on; don't press as if you were ironing a shirt. When you have completed this, turn to the right side of the fabric, place your press cloth over the fabric and press again until thoroughly dry. If you follow directions correctly and Pattern: Vogue Basic Design 1441 carefully, your fusible will never come off or bubble. Every yard of fusible interfacing comes with printed directions. Purchase several yards of your favorites, always keep them folded neatly and pin the instructions on each, so you: won't have to guess. Winner of the Sim-Flex measuring gauge, for the sewing tip of the week, is Mary Minnihan of New Port Richy, Fla. Her tip:: "Instead of moistening your, thread when threading a nee-; die, moisten the eye of the needle. The thread will go right to the eye!" 1915 S.Ohio 825-6247 Sports Connection CONNECTION Division of USA, Inc. Easy Access' § Location On 3 South Ohio- Shop & Compare Salina Price & Quality Just South of the Stop Light on Cloud & Ohio. OHIO SIDEWALK SALE NEW TODAY... 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