The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on April 11, 2001 · Page 15
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 15

Salina, Kansas
Issue Date:
Wednesday, April 11, 2001
Page 15
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WEDNESDAY APRIL 11, 2001 THE SALINA JOURNAL SUPERMARKET SAMPLER / C3 CLASSIFIED / C3 CHICKEN or the 'The Chicken Lady' explains how poultry can be easy to make or used with elegance By JOAN BRUNSKILL The Associated Press A photo illustration from "The Artful Chicken" shows the importance of the symbolism of eggs In an Easter basket. Tradition of eggs as holiday fare go back over the centuries By The Associated Press NEW YORK — Compiling her new book was a long labor of love, Linda Arnaud says. From an enthusiastic cook and collector of chicken-themed art objects, whose dinner guests nicknamed her "the chicken lady," the book's title springs no surprise. It's "The Artful Chicken," and a gorgeous array of chicken illustrations embellishes the recipes therein. "This book is meant as a celebration of the fine food and art of the chicken," the introduction says. Arnaud started cooking chicken "way back when," she said in a recent inter^, view. Her rea- 'Tm not a fine chef; I'm a good home cook. I'd say 90 percent of my recipes are quick and easy to make" Linda Arnaud "The Artful Chicken" author sons are crisply summarized. "I chose to make chicken because I preferred it. It's easy to do, and it carries flavor perfectly," she said. Arnaud, who lives in New York City, is a consultant to a ^ food product development company She has an art-studies background and has lived, worked and cooked in France and England. As anyone who starts to leaf through the book will see, it colorfully combines devotion to chicken-on-the-plate with a collector's selective eye. Each turn of a page brings to view another charming or exotic bird, in collage or vignette. Ceramic chickens. Painted, embroidered and sculpted chickens. Chickens molded in glass. Always decorative and often functional, the parade includes plenty of tureens, vases and salt-and-pepper shakers. The color photographs are the work of Arnaud's husband, Michel Arnaud. Many of the chicken objects belong to Arnaud. An avid collector, she explains some overlap: "A lot of my chicken collection is actually part of one of my other collections. I also coUect blue and white china, salt and pepper shakers, different kinds of fabrics" — all of which can have chicken-inspired motifs or forms. Photo illustrations by MICHAEL ARNAUD / 'The Artful Chicken" A table is set for a special family dinner with Madame Arnaud's Roast Chicken, Potato Gratin and green beans. The chicken and potato recipes from "The Artful Chicken" appear on Page C2. Her collection isn't "fine art," she said. "I like to enjoy what I have, put it out on the table and serve food on it. I don't have very 'precious' things." Arnaud's chicken recipes were accumulated over the years from family and friends and from places she has lived. "I'm not a fine chef; I'm a good home cook," she said. "I'd say 90 percent of my recipes are quick and easy to make." Being a professional woman herself guided the formulation of her recipes and cooking style. "Most of them are easy to follow, easy to do, with a few that are more complicated, for special occasions." She doesn't dictate what kind of chicken you buy, pointing out that "chicken is so popular today that the marketplace supports a great variety and demands a great deal of quality." She mentions her preferences and sometimes what kind she uses in a specific recipe. She offers one or two basic pointers for shoppers: "I would use a brand chicken. When you're shopping at the supermarket, the only thing I advise is to look carefully at the packaging, to make sure it is clean and the wrapping unbroken." If the supermarket does a lot of business, with a quick turnover, that's an advantage. The book has an appendix on chicken safety basics, with advice on good hygiene and handling practices. Oh, yes: There are egg recipes in the book, too. "I fought to have the egg chap­ ter in — I think that shows the chicken's totality" It's the last chapter in the chicken book, but she says that in no way means she's taking sides in the debate about which came first, the chicken or the egg. * s * #' The following recipe for roast chicken from "The Artful Chicken" is adapted from the traditional Sunday dinner Arnaud's French mother-in-law used to prepare. To make it in the United States, Linda Arnaud said she looks for free-range or organically fed roasters. Serve it with Potato Gratin and green beans, and offer stuffed eggs as an hors d'oeuvre. See CHICKEN, Page C2 The symbol of the egg and, of course, the chicken are at the heart of Easter traditions, says Linda Arnaud in her new book, "The Artful Chicken." However, the ornamental and decorated Easter eggs enjoyed by Christians each year are the legacy of a variety of cultural traditions. In ancient China, Greece and Rome, eggs were offered as gifts celebrating spring or love. In the British Isles, colored eggs honored pagan deities. Decorated eggs helped mark springtime and, later, Easter in central Europe. The most familiar of these, Arnaud continues, are probably the richly decorated traditional Ukrainian and Russian Easter eggs, available as two types. "Krashanky," hard- boiled eggs dyed a solid color, are often blessed and eaten as part of ritual. Sharing krashanky with family expresses unity and hope for a happy year ahead. "Pysanky," from the word "to write," are raw eggs dyed and decorated in fine detail. Today, design motifs combine both Christian symbols and simple geometric patterns from pagan times, when eggs — their yolks representing the sun — were used in sun worship ceremonies. Other European traditions expressing the more secular side of Easter were quickly adopted in America as well, Arnaud writes. The Easter bunny, the egg hunt and the egg- rolling contest on the White House lawn are offspring of older traditions. And the hen, rooster and chick are featured in many decorative objects this time of year. Witness the basket brimming with Easter treats, including chocolate, sugar, candy-coated or fancy-wrapped confectionery eggs, not to mention the egg-shaped jelly bean. In the form of sweets, toys or even baby booties, the baby chick theme always proves irresistible, Arnaud says. Panettone rises to occasion for Easter The Associated Press By The Associated Press This Easter panettone, a variation of the traditional Italian braided loaf, is flavored with citron, raisins, pine nuts and anise seeds. Italians serve panettone at Easter, weddings, christenings and other special occasions, in addition to Christmas. Easter Panettone 4Vi! to 5% cups unsifted flour Vz cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 2 packages active dry yeast V2 cup milk Vi cup water V2 cup margarine (1 stick) 3 eggs (at room temperature) V2 cup chopped citron V2 cup seedless raisins 2 tablespoons pine nuts 1 tablespoon anise seeds 1 egg 1 tablespoon water In a large bowl, thoroughly mix 1 V2 cups flour, sugar, salt and yeast. Combine milk, V2 cup water and margarine in a saucepan. Heat over low heat until liquids are warm. (Margarine does not need to melt.) Gradually add to dry ingredients and beat 2 minutes at medium speed with an electric mixer, scraping the bowl occasionally. Add the 3 eggs and V2 cup flour, or enough flour to make a thick batter. Beat at high speed for 2 minutes, scraping the bowl occasionally Stir in citron, raisins. pine nuts and anise seeds. Add enough additional flour to make a soft dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured board; knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes. Place in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover; let rise in warm place, free from draft, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch down dough again; turn onto a lightly floured board. Divide into three ropes about 9 to 12 inches long, depending on loaf size desired. Pinch ropes together at one end, braid, and pinch together at other end to secure braid. Transfer to a greased baking sheet; cover and let rise until doubled in size, about 30 minutes to 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350. Brush loaf with beaten egg and water; bake 35 to 40 minutes or until done. Remove from baking sheet and cool on wire rack. Makes 1 braided loaf, with 20 slices per loaf y 0 EAT Tips by SHERRIE MAHONEY Home Economics Extension Agent I ombine one 8- ounce package corn I' muffin mix and Vz teaspoon dried dill weed (or 1 V2 teaspoons chopped fresh). Stir in Vs cup milk and 1 slightly beaten egg, just until mixed. Spoon batter into muffin pan cups, filling % full. Bake at 350 for 12 to 15 minutes or until golden brown. Makes 6 muffins. • HAM GLAZES Easy glazes spruce up ham By The Associated Press Here is the low-down on warming a ham, plus ideas for glazes in a hurry from the new cookbook "Family Circle Quick & Easy Recipes: More Than 300 Tasty Easy-to-Make Recipes Plus 75 Photos." Begin with a fully cooked 12- to 16-pound bone-in or boneless ham. Place, fat side up, in a roasting pan, brush with a quick glaze (recipes follow) and roast at 325 for 15 minutes per pound or until internal temperature registers 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Brush occasionally with glaze during roasting. Tart-Sweet Mix In a small bowl, combine 'A cup whole-berry cranberry sauce and '/a cup applesauce, mashing with the back of a spoon until spreadable. Makes about 1 cup. Hot-Sweet Mix In a small bowl, mix 1 can (8 ounces) crushed pineapple with 1 finely chopped jalapeno chili and 2 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro. Makes about 1 cup. One-Step Glazes Use any of the following, straight from the jar: maple syrup, orange marmalade, apricot preserves, ginger preserves, honey mustard. Meat manager Gary Piskula stocks hams for the Easter rush at a Lansing, III., food store. More than a third of U.S. households serve a traditional bone-in ham for Easter dinner. The Associated Press SUGGESTIONS? CALL BRET WALLACE, ASSISTANT EDITOR, AT 823-6363 OR 1-800-827-6363 OR E-MAIL AT

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