The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on September 29, 1996 · Page 70
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 70

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Salina, Kansas
Issue Date:
Sunday, September 29, 1996
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Page 70
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8 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1996 THE SALINA JOURNAL Fashion Los ANGELES DAILY NewsA Long or short hemlines? Flares or cigarette legs? Can't figure out what's in and what's out? If you're feeling fashion-impaired, don't fret. Just dial a decade — any decade — on your fashion hot line and you'll be stylin'. As we inch closer to the next century, designers here and abroad have scoured thrift shops, studied movie classics and sitcom reruns, and even looked into their own closets for inspiration. And what they've come up with is a time line of looks we loved (and hated) from the '20s through the '80s. Talk about playing it again, Sam. With drop-waist dresses, miniskirts, mod pantsuits and peacoats last seen in the 1970 film "Love Story," fashion mavens are beginning to wonder if designers are stuck in a sentimental rut, or are feeling so insecure that they're only designing what they know will sell. Lee Hogan Cass, regional director of the Fashion Group International trade organization in Los Angeles, isn't complaining, but she's concerned about the trend. "It's odd that as we approach the next millennium, nobody is reaching forward in fashion. Like, where's the Rudi Gernreich of the '90s?" she asked, referring to the Los Angeles designer famous for his '60s space-age look. We're moving into an "age of self-navigation," said Chip Walker, director of the Global Consulting & Trends firm in New York. He describes it as "a new era in which the public no longer relies on tradition, convention and institutions to frame the course of their lives." Rosemary Brantley, who heads the fashion department of Otis College of Art and Design in Los Angeles, also has noticed that people no longer want to be dictated to when it comes to what they wear. "There's a new freedom to <z(te* and always in style. The office of Dr. Lewis LaPierre is the area's premier eye fashion source. We offer the latest frame styles, frame names like Giorgio Armani, Nautica, Flexon by Marchon, and Safilo crafted from the most durable, flexible material to ensure the long-lasting look and comfort you expect. And they're all backed by our exclusive two-year eyeglass warranty. That's eyewear service and quality you can trust. Ask about our... Q EXCLUSIVE TWO YEAR EYEGLASS WARRANTY a SAME DAY EYEGLASSES IN MANY CASES 0 COMPLIMENTARY CONTACT LENS CONSULTATION G DAILY AND WEEKEND HOURS AVAILABLE Q MEDICARE AND INSURANCE WELCOME " »30OEF COMPLETE EYEWEAR PACKAGE No other insurance discounts or coupons apply. Non-expired prescription required. Expires Oct. 15th. Present coupon on day of order. pick and choose what you want to wear. It's not just about bias cuts or fabrics, but comfort. And many of the fashions of the past were designed for comfort," she said. It's simply a great year to play dress-up, said James Watterson, spokesman for Robinsons-May stores. "We're recycling all the different decades of the 20th century so fast that I expect we'll be wearing '90s styles before the '90s are over. As a rule, we're not known for dressing up right now," Brantley said. "As people look back on the '90s, they'll think of it as the decade of informality and remember it for the birth of Casual Friday." About those new-again styles. No, they aren't going total flapper with Cupid's bow lips and flattened breasts, but the silhouette is definitely long and lean, with fluid fabrics and shoes like T-straps, said Beverly Morgan, fashion spokeswoman for Neiman Marcus stores. "A long look is key, regardless of the decade you dial," Morgan said. "To get it, designers have made smaller shoulders and arm holes, with fitted clothes that gently flare out at the bottom, whether it's a skirt or pant hemline," said Morgan, who thinks many of the new looks are reminiscent of the late Halston and rekindled by Tom Ford for Gucci. "We're still seeing the '70s, but there's a lot of '20s influence, as well," Morgan said. "You'll see matte jersey shirts worn unbuttoned, ankle-length slim skirts, below-the-hip cardigans (an alternative to blazers) and minimal jewelry." But she adds that the military looks of peacoats and pantsuits with plenty of brass buckles and buttons also are making a comeback. The must-haves of the season? According to these experts, it's any trend from your favorite era, but there are a few items that place you high on the fashion barometer. Cass said a slim pantsuit in pin stripes will give you instant clout, especially if you dress it up with clunky square-toed shoes and a shirt and tie for that menswear influence, but she doesn't expect exaggerated shoulders to hurry back. Cass also recommends a short, crisp skirt, a long fluid skirt that grazes the ankles, and leather goods with a glossy (not patent) finish. Morgan said her list of must- haves would include a jumpsuit, a military-inspired jacket with epaulets, a tuitieneck sweater with cigarette-silhouette pants, and a jacket with faux fur trim. Watterson advised trendies to shop for a peacoat, a chenille vest, and clothes in brown (trying to be the new black), purple (this year it's called eggplant or aubergine) and lime green (it's not as bright but still glowing). For evening? Brantley thinks a body-skimming dress with Halston touches is the dress for evening. Not sure what it looks like? Think back to those slit- from-here-to-there clingy gowns worn by Liza Minnelli. Fabrics Textures Fall 1996 features the fabrics to touch. You'll love the brights that compliment the darker hues of fall plus the textures you'll feel right wearing. Silks, wool, rayon plus cashmere as well as chenille sweaters and velvets. Jteepfc 9. <Qotfi ft Song, (Mte/is 1829 S.Ohio 825-82=18

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