The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on September 29, 1996 · Page 64
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 64

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Salina, Kansas
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Sunday, September 29, 1996
Page:
Page 64
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SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1996 THE SALINA JOURNAL Fashion experts reveal the 'best of the season' Few women can afford to buy an entire new wardrobe each season. (And if some can, would they have the nerve to admit it?) That's why choosing a select few pieces each fall and spring can be an efficacious and smart way to freshen what's already in your (all black?) closet You'd be surprised how far that maxi length black skirt you already own will go when teamed with one of this season's military-styled maxi coats and a brightly colored turtleneck. LONG & LEAN The main trend this season is to long and lean clothes with few embellishments — a minimal, body-conscious silhouette with an overall feel of yes, the 70s. Thus there are military looks with epaulettes and gold buttons, skinny shirts, funky leg- hugging trousers that flare at the hem — and upholstery prints, from Fifties chintzes at Dolce e Gabbana to bathroom- tile geometries at Prada, Colors are purple, plum, orange, and forest and moss green, but if you hate all those, stay with camel, gray, black and navy and throw in some lilac for fun. MAXI COATS/ PANTSUITS Maxi coats are big for fall as are pantsuits (hooray! we'll save money on hose); jumpsuits and knits, back in all versions including long, belted cardigans; shapely V-neck sweaters and vests; and the turtleneck, which almost all fashion designers have resurrected for fall. Other trends: fur, fake or real, lace and velvet, lots of butter- soft leather, and textured hose in vivid colors and patterns, ranging from muted geometries to bold argyles. We asked the experts at five top clothing stores what they think are the three essential items to update a fall wardrobe. (Some came up with more than three, which is fine. We need all the help we can get.) Remember; don't be put off by the prices of the items recommended. This is just meant to give you an idea of what's current. Inexpensive versions abound and you'll have fun searching them out. Kalman Ruttenstein, the legendary fashion director of Bloomingdale's, chose items out of the store's fall catalog that are easily ordered by calling 1-800-555-SHOP. Ruttenstein says women who want this fall's sleek chic look "must wear something narrow, close to the body, crisp, not oversized or floppy, something neatly tailored." To that end, he recommends a lush, gently fitted Ralph Lauren coat in camel hair, an Andrea Jovine wool turtleneck in chartreuse, and a smart little slim, knee-length Calvin Klein leather skirt in rich, dark cognac. "A longer coat, knee length and below, really updates a wardrobe for fall," says Rutten- stein from his Manhattan offices. "And we like all kinds of coats — polo coats and reefers and military coats and the classic fit-and-flare styles.... And the turtleneck is a given; it's the ultimate underpinning." UNIFORMS Rose Marie Bravo, the dynamic president of Saks Fifth Avenue, touts the new, comfort- driven "uniform" look that's been sweeping the fashion world and suggests an outfit from Gucci as a good example. "The new uniform has evolved into a relaxed, chic ensemble epitomized by these pieces from Gucci," says Bravo. "The modern merger of sportswear separates and ensemble dressing is composed of a coat or elongated jacket with a sleek top and slim pants.... What's • wonderful about this outfit is when you take off the coat you're left with this really com- fortable relaxed sweater and pant." Bravo's selections for fall are the ultra-smart navy double- breasted wool crepe coat, navy silk poplin blouse with epaulettes, and navy wool pants. She suggests finishing this off with black suede boots by Gucci, and a calf-hair black belt with the new gold-toned "G" buckle. MILITARY-INSPIRED SUIT Ann Paolini, general manager of Neiman Marcus, always a chic dresser herself, suggests Gianni Versace's military-inspired suit with silver military button detailing in what she calls "the new black" — deep chocolate brown. The suit has a smart jacket with military pleating in back and a knee-length matching skirt. Paolini also goes for some black nylon and Lycra boot-cut pants by Jennifer George, explaining, "These continue the trend for '70s chic and update any outfit with the new long- length jackets." For her third item, Paolini takes on a romantic tone, recommending a sexy Ocimar Ver- solato four-ply silk satin asymmetrical black gown with deep back draping. "This is absolutely perfect for a grand entrance at the opening night of the sym- I Also Big & Tall Headley's Clothing Ugly Tie Trade-In Trade-In Your Ugly He And Receive: 1. When you purchase a new suit or sport coat and slacks at regular price, trade your ugly tie for a new tie of your choice, valued to $25. 2. Purchase any tie and your ugly tie is worth $5 as a trade-in. 3. Purchase any tie and dress shirt at regular price and your ugly tie is woth $7.50 as a trade-in. Offer Expires 10-31-96 Also Big & Tall 825-0689 In Kraft Manor Open Daily 9-8 Fri. & Sat. 9-6 fatt* phony or the opera," she says. Bill Bigler, fashion director for Macy's West, says his key items will update any wardrobe. Bigler recommends Anne Klein ITs navy wool maxi coat, (navy is a basic neutral that looks good on everybody, he explains), Vertigo's black polyester single-breasted, self-belted, elongated jacket, with matching boot-cut flat-front trouser; and Via Spiga's black polished calf square-toed mid- calf boot. Mix & MATCH "The look is lean and clean," says Bigler. "Mixing and matching these simple shapes affords a woman the opportunity to replace everything or select the elements she needs to update her wardrobe." At Nordstrom, Colin Columna, fashion coordinator for the San Francisco region, has a poetic take on this fall season's fashions. "Designers have been informed by vintage Halston, 'Love Story' and the dreaded leisure suit, all echoing back to the 70s," muses Columna. "The influence can be felt in the length of a coat, the flare of a boot-cut pant, and the wrap of a cardigan." There's always an updating twist — "the cut of an armhole or the absence of pleats," he says. What's the appeal? "American classics — such as the turtleneck, camel hair coats and the pantsuit — project sportswear ease," Columna explains. Thus, he recommends Calvin Klein's camel-hair three-quarter- length belted robe coat,. "This is a long-term investment with endless options." Columna also suggests the black square-toe, side-zip boot by The Arrow by Via Spiga, and Equestrian Designs' plain-front pant in brown rib stretch fabric: "The slight bell and slim line of the pant extends the leg, while the color satisfies fall's chocolate fixation." YOUR GUIDE TO FALL FASHION FAVORITES Design: Kelly Nelson Advertising Writer: Sydney M. Dippel Photographer: Vino Wong and Rodrick M. Gruber Models: Penny Allen and Sean Robertson Salina Journal 333 South 4th • Salina, KS 800-827-6363 • (913)823-6363 t?C?®[M) Patrick Kalle of Holland, a world famous hair designer, recently presented a workshop and design forum on national and international Fall and Winter Hair Fashion for the staff at the Continental Family Hair Care Center and the staff and students at the Academy of Hair Design, Inc. Patrick has taught throughout Europe and the United States as well as Taiwan, Hong Kong, Bangkok and Macau. This forum was exclusively for the Academy of Hair Design students and staff and The Continental Salon Staff. Classes start November 5,1996 at The Academy of Hair Design. Financial aid and scholarships available for those who qualify. The Continental Family Hair Care Center 1113 E. Crawford 823-3709 The Academy of Hair Design 115 So. 5th, Salina 825-8155

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