Travel The Salina Journal Entertainment Sunday, January 5,1986 Page 6 By NEIL E. CALLAHAN The New York Times After some tentative starts, the ski season along the winding State Route 100, which runs up the spine of Vermont, got under way in late December following a substantial snowfall. The state has close to 30 ski centers, which attract hundreds of thousands of visitors. But the slopes provide only a glimpse of the attractions of Vermont, which for many trave- lerp, whether skiers or not, is at its most charming in winter. Straddling Route 100 and the back roads branching off to the small towns that compose the heart of the state, visitors find a host of craft shops, factory outlets, restaurants and farms. They also discover antique shops and auctions, art exhibits, local festivals and fresh maple and apple products. What's doing in Ski areas Vermont Vermont's best known resort is Stowe (802-253-7311), consisting of Mount Mansfield and Spruce Peak, with 44 trails, of which 33 are for intermediates and beginners. Expenses Beginning at the foot of Route 100 just 20 miles north of Massachusetts is Mount Snow (8024643333) with snowmaking on 42 of 57 trails encompassing three mountains. At Stratton (802-297-22200), a few minutes north, there are another 57 trails and plenty of high-quality skiing. Bromley (802-824-5222) has 35 trails and seven lifts leading to a single base area. Okemo, in Ludlow (802-2284041), offers a dozen expert runs on its upper mountain. In contrast, Okemo's Mountain Road Trail, which extends for 4% miles, is among the most rewarding for an intermediate skier. One of the most popular resorts is Killington (802-422-3333), the largest in the East. It spans six mountains and has 17 lifts and 100 trails. Relatively easy trails descend from all six peaks. Workshops in racing and bump skiing are available at the ski school. Farther north, near the middle of Vermont is a cluster of resorts in the Mad River Valley, including Mad River Glen in Waitsfield (802496-3351) and Sugarbush in Warren (802-583-2381), which offers some of the best sluing in the state. Sugarbush, with a noted children's program, has 81 trails. Mad River has just improved its snowmaking capability and offers a variety of trails for aU levels. Ski areas along the route also include Smugglers' Notch (Jeffersonville; 802-644-8851), which lies across Mount Mansfield from Stowe. It is a family resort that has added a special area at the base of Morse Mountain for beginners. Smugglers' has 41 trails in all. Neil E. Callahan is the city editor of The Times Argus in Barre, Vt. The price of taking to the slopes has increased to $28 a day at Stowe, Killington, Sugarbush and Smugglers' Notch from $26 last winter, but ski operators say only 12 percent of skiers purchase a one-day lift ticket. Special packages offered by most areas cut costs. A two-day pass is $50 at Stowe, $52 at Sugarbush and $48 at Killington. Five- day tickets run from $110 at Killington and Stowe to $125 at Sugarbush. On weekends, Mad River Glen offers a $22 all-day pass, reduced to $19 for half a day. An all-day pass at Burke (802-626-3305) is $17 on weekdays and $20 on weekends. Discounted packages also are available for ski lessons and rentals. Most resorts now offer day-care facilities and instruction for young children. At Killington, an all-day stay at the Children's Center for an infant up to age 2 is $30 and for children 2 to 8, $21, including lunch. Lodgings The White House (Route 9, Wilmington; 802-464-2135) offers the charm of a country inn within short driving distance of Stratton, Mount Snow, Hogback in Marlboro (802-464-3942), Carinthia, West Dover (802-464-5461) and Prospect Mountain, Woodford (8024422575). The daily cost for two, including breakfast and dinner, use of Nordic trails, indoor pool and health spa, starts at $110 and increases to $180 for a suite with a balcony. As at most lodgings, a 10 percent premium is added to rates during the holiday weeks. But throughout the season daily rates are generally reduced when accommodations are taken for several mid-week days. Most rates are lower still after March 15. In Stowe village, a double room at the 19th-century Green Mountain Inn (Route 100; 802-253-7301) is $67. At the Holiday Inn (Route 100, Waterbury; 802-244-7822), 10 are in the Stowe area. More than 100 miles of trails are interconnected with the Trapp Family Lodge (802-253-8511), Mount Mansfield and the touring center of Topnotch (802-253-8585) and Edson Hill (802-253-8954). Both the downhill area of Bolton Valley (802434-2131) and Mountain Top, exclusively a cross- country center in Chittenden (802483-6089), have about 60 miles of trail. The touring center at the Hermitage in Wilmington (8024643511) includes a five-mile trail combining Alpine and Nordic skiing on a ridge run connecting the summits of Mount Snow and Haystack. Restaurants miles from Stowe, rooms for two go for $55. Tucker Hill Lodge (Route 17, Waitsfield; 802-496-3983), near Sugarbush and Mad River Glen, charges $54 or $64 a person, including breakfast and dinner. The Grey Bonnet Inn (Route 100, Killington; 802-775-2237) has rooms for two priced at $68 and $73 a person on weekends, and $58 in midweek, all rates including breakfast and dinner. Bed and breakfast 'accommodations are available near many ski areas. The Lareau Farm Country Inn (Route 100, Waitsfield; 8024964949), for example, offers a room for two, with private bath, for $70. At (he Combes Family Inn (Route 100, Ludlow; 802-228-8799), near Killington and Okemo, the charge for two is $60. At the Black River Inn (Route 100, Ludlow; 802228-5585) it's $78. Some rooms have a private bath. Cross-country Nordic, or cross country, trails have become more prominent at many of the leading downhill ski areas, and others can be found at many inns and motels. The cost is generally $5 a person a day. The greatest number of trails The food at Tubbs Inn (24 Elm Street, Montpelier; 802-229-9202) is prepared by chefs in training at the New England Culinary Institute nearby and the menu changes nightly. A sample entree is duck confit with steamed escarole and walnuts for $14.75; another is papillote of salmon with julienne of cucumber, $14.50. In the Mount Snow region, at Wilmington's White House (802464-2135) one specialty is boneless duck stuffed with apples, walnuts and grapes cooked in brandy, $16.95. There is a selection of 50 wines. Near Stowe, State Routes 100 and 108 (known as the Mountain Road) are lined with restaurants ranging from casual to fancy. One of the more informal is The Shed (Route 108; 802-253-4364), where jumbo shrimp sauteed in garlic butter and white wine is $10.50. Prime rib is $10.50; the larger cut, $12.95. The Fox Fire Inn (Route 100; 802-253-4887) serves Italian dishes, all a la carte, and a popular choice is the veal marsala and fettuccini. Alfredo combination for $13.50. Only Italian wines are served. Mexican dishes as well as steaks are available at the Stowe-Away Lodge (Route 108; 802-253-7574), where dinner with a glass of wine costs about $15. Reservations are essential at many places during the ski season. Off the slopes For antique sales and acutions, visitors should check Thursday and weekend classifieds in local newspapers. Among antique stores with a wide selection are Early Vermont Antiques (Route 1090, Waterbury; 802-244-5373), Dore B. McKennis (State Route 30, Jamaica; 802-8744853) and the Church Street Gallery (Woodstock; 802-457-2628). At the Cold Hollow Cider Mill (Route 100, Waterbury Center; 802-244-8771) visitors can watch apple cider being made and shop for crafts and maple products. The Fleming Museum (802-6560750) at the University of Vermont in Burlington often features 17th- century Dutch and Flemish paintings, prints and drawings. Admission is free. Among maple sugar houses are Twitchell's Maple Farm (Winhall Hollow Road, Londonberry; 802824-5295), Maple Ridge Farm State Route 9, Wilmington; 802464-5243) and, farther north near Smugglers' Notch, Ash's Sugarhouse (Route 108, Jeffersonville; (802-644-2262). Factory outlets selling Vermont crafts and clothing stretch across the state. The 143-year-old Johnson Woolen Mills (Main Street, Johnson; 802-635-2271) has an outlet store featuring sweaters, blankets and woolen outerwear. The Cabot Farmers Cooperative (Main Street, Cabot; 802-563-2231) sells Cheddar cheese made locally. Bennington Potters has an outlet at 127 College Street, Burlington (802-863-2221) in addition to its primary store at 324 Country Street, Bennington (802447-7531). After dark Visitors are advised to book tickets for stage performances before they leave home. The University of Vermont Lane Series will be presenting the Cracow Philharmonic Orchestra, a national orchestra of Poland, with the cellist Yo-Yo Ma on Jan. 20 at the Burlington Memorial Auditorium. Tickets range from $5 to $16.50 and the reservations number is 802-6564455. Another Lane Series presentation is the Broadway play "Noises Off," featuring Noel Harrison, at the renovated Flynn Theater in Burlington (802-863-5966) on Jan. 13. Tickets are $5 to $18.50. The American composer and pianist Steve Reich, accompanied by the Brooklyn Philharmonic Orchestra, will be performing his "Desert Music" at the Flynn Theater on Jan. 15. The work was commissioned by the Brooklyn Academy of Music. Tickets are $5, $14 and $17. The Paul Taylor Dance Company will be at the Flynn Jan. 29-30 in two separate programs; tickets from $10 to $19. B.K. Clark's (Route 108, Stowe; 802-253-9300) presents live music for dancing.
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