The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on January 4, 1986 · Page 6
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 6

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Salina, Kansas
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Saturday, January 4, 1986
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Page 6
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Living Today The Salina Journal Saturday, January 4,1986 Page 6 Simple lines accent designs By The Associated Press NEW YORK — The slimmed-down designs of Perry Ellis and the minimalist mastery of Louis DelTOlio for Anne Klein results in sensational collections that offer women body-baring styles for spring. Though many designers along Seventh Avenue have touted their collections as being spare in detail, no one does it better than DelTOlio. Perry Ellis, one-time king of kiddie fashions, also received high praise for showing more mature designs which are sure to delight his yuppie fans. Here is a brief overview of the collections: •Anne Klein: Sum trousers and summer skirts with safari tunics and sedate front-draped blouses for day done in muted solids, ring-dot and wonderful silver bamboo prints are hallmarks of this collection. Dell'Olio has simple and clean lines and uses styling and color to make his collection a standout. The clothes ease over the body for a sumptuous look. Even his most casual styles shine as in an ivory knit tank top worn with a pale pink silk and linen belted blazer over ivory Bermudas. Silk and linen blouses are either wrapped with notch collars or with scarf-style fronts that fold into soft drapes along plunging V-necku'nes. The stunningly simple look is best when paired with slim, front-pleated pants. DelTOlio's ring-dot pattern in gun-metal gray and sand is used in cropped jackets, long cardigans, blouses and satin tunics that hug the form. These are teamed with cropped and narrow tweed trousers. But even nicer was his silver bamboo jacquard used in linen blazers, fitted vests and his wonderful wrap sarong skirt. The sarong, which skims the knee, was smashing when teamed with a ribbed, crewneck sweater. The matte jersey collection was an example of DelTOlio at his sparest as seen in a pair of red matte jersey pants and black matte jersey T-shirt, devoid of any detail. At tunes he used solid black or red in the set that also featured short skirts and looser tunics, T-shirt dresses and circle skirts. Cashmere knit tunics and sleeveless turtlenecks in red, black and ivory colorblocks are also big over short cashmere skirts. Dell'Olio continues the minimal theme for evening, offering a slinky backless turtleneck dress, a long matte jersey sarong, sequined T-shirt and trousers with knit mini skirts or cardigans. All were done in a dull-finished platinum, which though missing typical glitz associated with evening will nonetheless shine brightly this spring. • Perry Ellis: The crispness of Ellis' trimmer collection beckons summer to linger forever. That fresh feeling is conveyed through linens done in ebony, indigo, plum and crisp white and featuring silk sweaters in Orient-inspired prints. Jumpsuits, minis, hip-tapered culottes and suits with unconstructed jackets and pushed-up sleeves are staples this season. Ellis sizzles with his crushed white silk jumpsuit that has spaghetti straps and a plunging V-neckh'ne both front and back. Less revealing but equally tantalizing is Ellis' side- pleated linen culottes with a midriff linen blouse. Summery laceup sandals finish the look. A Napalese dragon-print silk sweater over cropped white pants is a nice casual look as are the linen mini skirts and matching blouson jackets done in porcelain blue, plum and pomegranate plaids. Known for his whimsical cartoon-like sweaters, Ellis graduates to the head of the class this year by offering more mature styles like a group of skinny, button-down knits worn with cropped pants. The Far East feeling continues for night with some butterfly printed evening sweaters and softly folded black crepe pants or slender palm-print gowns with summing bodices. Other attention-getters included a group of silk crepe cropped tops with pajama pants and flowing skirts. Perry Ellis teams a draped, striped blouse with pleated pants and a matching wrap belt at left. Louis Dell'Olio pairs a snug, ribbed sweater with a wrap skirt. * Seams of gored skirt solve figure problem Sew simple By EUNICE FARMER Cowles Syndicate Inc. Dear Eunice: I have a fitting problem for skirts that is almost impossible to solve, and I need your help. My waist is only 28 inches but my hips are 44 inches. This is too much fabric to pleat or gather for my skirt to fit. Can you give a pattern suggestion? — Mrs. Rose S. Dear Rose: I have selected a simple pattern for you — McCall 2307 — that has eight gores or seams. It has a graceful flare at the hemline and is fitted fairly smooth at the waist and hips. The secret to this pattern is you have eight seams that can all be angled in slightly from the hipline to the waist for a skirt that will fit your body without distorting the lines. You must divide this difference between many seams. If you try to take it all out of side seams, your skirt would have a bias seam at the side and would never fit properly. I think you will be delighted with the fit of this pattern, and I am sure you can find similar patterns in other pattern books. Dear Eunice Fanner: I was looking at some expensive resort clothes at one of our fine stores and saw some linen dresses with bound buttonholes. Are they coming back, and if so, what is the best way to make them? — Mrs. Virgie C. Dear Mrs. C.: Designer Bill Blass has often used bound buttonholes on his garments. And, yes, he is using them on expensive linens for this season. You can add a very expensive and custom look to your clothes with them. I have written a detailed step-by- step leaflet on a foolproof method of making beautiful bound buttonholes. You may get a copy of this leaflet, "Bound Buttonholes," by sending 50 cents and a self-addressed, stamped envelope to Eunice Farmer — Buttonholes, P.O. Box 4994, Des Moines, Iowa, 50306. They are not difficult to make, but they are tedious so you must take your time. I have always loved this detail and think you will see it used more and more when clothes are not strictly tailored and have a softer dressmaker look. Dear Readers: One of the nicest privileges of writing a column is being able to thank each and every one of my readers for helping me make Sew Simple a success! My special thanks for all of your letters. Although I can't possibly answer them all personally, I do get to know your problems and try to help you solve those of general interest in my column. So please keep the mail coming. This is the time of year to begin getting your sewing area in order so you can begin sewing for spring. Let's either finish old projects immediately or pack them away for another time. Try to reorganize your sewing supplies so you will be inspired to get a fresh start. It's also a great time to have your sewing machine checked over, lubricated, etc. If you were lucky enough to get money for Christmas, why not look into the wonderful new overlock- sergers? They have taken the sewing world by storm for good reason. They make sewing a real joy. This is a separate little machine that overcasts, stitches seams and trims off all the excess fabric in one operation. I would recommend you go to your favorite shop and make your purchase according to the services they offer. Lessons are vital — because any piece of equipment is only as good as knowing what it will do for you. You might also be in the market for a new sewing machine. What a perfect time to begin looking around. Ask your friends what kind they have. Find out what kind is best for you — depending on the type of sewing you will do. (For many of you who have asked, I sew on a Bernina). This week's winner of the Simflex measuring guide for the sewing tip of the week is Bea Lock, P.O. Box 1619, Conway, Ark., 73032. Her tip: "When shoulder pads (or facings) are needed for off-white or white fabrics that are sheer, make them out of flesh-colored fabric. These do not show through and are not nearly as noticeable as when they are constructed with the white self-fabric." (You, too, could win a SimFlex folding measure. Send your sewing tips to Eunice Farmer, P.O. Box 4994, Des Moines, Iowa, 50306. If she selects your tidbit for publication, Farmer will send you the SimFlex.) Parent faces challenge of handicapped child Dear Ann Landers: The Tightness or wrongness of abortion aside, I would like to say a few words to those people who say they are "financially and emotionally unable" to care for a handicapped child. My husband and I have six children from 12 years to 11 months old. Our 12-year-old daughter has severe cerebral palsy and is unable to walk or feed herself. She speaks with great difficulty. Not a day dawns when I feel either emotionally or financially able to care for my handicapped child or equal to facing the heartbreak and inconvenience. But I do the best I can and somehow everything gets done. I wish I had a dollar for every tune someone has said to me, "I don't see how you do it. You're remarkable! We couldn't get together the money to buy a new wheelchair and it would kill me." I used to smile when people would tell me how thankful they were for their healthy children and that they could never take care of a handicapped one. I tell them they could handle whatever challenge they had to face. I then explain brain damage does not always occur at birth. A car accident, a high fever or an injury can cause as much brain damage as Church plans retreat The Salina Peace Coalition will have a retreat from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. today at St. Elizabeth Seton's Church, 1000 Burr Oak Lane. Sister Marcia Allen, CSJ, will direct the retreat and review the goals of the coalition. Those attending should bring at least one dish for the meal and a cushion to be placed on the chair or floor. Ann Landers NEWS AMERICA a congenital problem. Most of the brain-injured children I know sustained their injuries after birth. Their parents are in a state of shock when the injury occurs, but like the rest of us, they adjust to the tragedy and do the best they can. Life is not always fair and it wasn't meant to be. The same couple who decide to abort their baby because they learn through amniocentesis the fetus is abnormal could have a car accident on their way home from the abortion clinic and wind up with a husband or wife who is in worse condition than the baby would have been. Would they then say, "I can't handle this emotionally or financially?" I doubt it. Somehow they would find the strength to do whatever is necessary. We parents of handicapped children are not superhuman nor are we emotional giants. We just know sometimes you have to take what life hands you and do the best you can with it. I know from my own life and from the lives of the brave families I associate with *-at the difference between saying "I can't" and "I can" is often saying "I will." — Susan S. in Danville Dear Susan: You've written a remarkably sensible letter and I thank you for it. I know you don't consider yourself "special" but let me tell you, you are. You didn't choose the role, but you are handling it with dignity and courage. I doff my bonnet to you, Susan, and to all the others out there who are traveling the same road. Dear Ann Landers: I'm awfully late getting into the squabble about the cost of nurses' uniforms, but no one, to my knowledge, brought up the fact that uniforms are tax- deductible. Please print this for me. — Penny Pincher in Pottersville Dear Pot: Right you are! Thanks for the reminder. Dear Ann Landers: This is in answer to "I Spell Well But My typing Is Lousy." Apparently "Spell Well" has never studied a foreign language. I am tired of hearing how hard it is to learn to spell because our language has crazy words like "bough," "geaux" and "bow". Most other languages have words with masculine and feminine genders. The English language has none of that nonsense. In French there are nine tenses in the indicative, two in the conditional and four in the subjenctive. This means dozens of special endings to memorize. It would be hard enough if all the verbs were the same type, but they fall into four classes for a grand total of 360 different endings in order to conjugate the regular verbs. Then, of course, there are the irregular verbs. (I have lost count of them.) The pronunciation of a French word doesn't give you a clue as to how it is spelled. Half the letters are silent. Chinese is a real killer. Many words sound alike but they have different meanings when they are said in a higher (or lower) pitched voice. In other words, you have to "sing" them just right or you are saying something altogether different. Also there are hundreds of dialects. The Chinese you learn in Canton won't help you a bit in Beijing. I'm sorry to say we Americans are getting soft in the head from thinking everything should be easy. Let's apply ourselves and work hard to raise our national IQ. In the last 25 years our educational standards have lagged shamefully behind those of many other countries. Have you noticed how the Japanese have been beating our brains out when it comes to manufacturing cars, cameras and TV sets? — Enuff SaidinN.J. Dear N.J.: Maybe too much. I'll bet I get a lot of flak in response to your last paragaraph. Last spring I sat on the platforms of three fine institutions of higher learning and watched the diplomas and honors handed out. The majority of summa cum laudes and magnas went to Chinese, Vietnamese and Japanese students. It gave me something to think about. (Write to Ann Landers in care of News America Syndicate, 1703 Kaiser Avenue, Irvine, Calif. 92714.) Baby named A daughter, Sarah Kathryn, was born Dec. 24 to Dave and Sherri Palermo of Mission. The mother is formerly of Salina. Grandparents are Jack and Alice Sanders of Salina and Don and Jody Palermo of Mission. A great-grandmother is Frieda Blehm of Wilson. Knowledge of weaves aids in towel selection ByMARYLOUODLE County Extension Home Economist Technology has brought about improvements in the complicated process of making terryeloth. Today, beautiful colors and patterns, In the home the choice of sizes and construction, plus built-in easy care make towels both practical and a focal decorating point. Many factors should be considered in towel selection — who will use it, color, size, weight, texture and construction. Bath towels today are made from 100 percent cotton or cotton with a polyester blend. The addition of polyester makes towels more shrink resistant. An all cotton towel is the most absorbent, but one with a polyester base with cotton loops is also very absorbent. When purchasing towels, it is helpful to know something about construction and weaves. All-loop terry on both sides is generally considered to be more absorbent. The longer the loops and the more closely placed, the more absorbent the towel. • Sheared terry, looped on one side and velour on the other, has more sheen and an extra-soft feel. The sheared side of a towel does not pick up and hold water as well as loops. The selvage should be firm and closely woven since signs of wear appear in this area first. Hems should be sewn with small, firm, close stitches and backstitched at corners. Examine the closeness and evenness of the ground weave, the basis of durability, by holding a towel up to the light. For long wear, and a continued bright look, read laundering instructions on towels. Wash towels frequently, before dirt and grime become embedded in fibers. Sort towels into dark and light colored loads. New, deep-toned or bright towels should be washed separately several times to remove excess dye without affecting other colored items. To prevent lint transfer when laundering towels, separate towels which are lint givers, from lint attractors, such as permanent press and synthetic fiber items. Some towels, particularly new ones, shed more lint than others. Avoid overloading the washer or dryer. Towels should move about freely for best cleaning. Also, it is wise to mix large and small items in a regular load together for better washing and drying. Use enough detergent or soap to clean towels and to help hold lint in suspension during washing. Tumble drying enhances the fluffiness and softness of towels. When storing, place freshly laundered towels on the bottom of a stack so they are rotated. BOUTIQUE iiiifiii (7 * 0 FINAL DAY - SUN., JAN 5th! ENTIRE STOCK INCLUDED ALL SALES FINAL NO EXCHANGES -NO REFUNDS »NO LAY AW AYS MID STATE MALL, SALINA

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