The Santa Fe New Mexican from Santa Fe, New Mexico • Page Z045

Couture by Pilar Agoyo. Native Couture Fashion Show in Idyllwild, California, 2013 Photo Thosh Collins. PHOTO THOSH COLLINS Couture by Dorothy Grant, Native Couture Fashion Show, Idyllwild, California, 2013. BEYOND BUCKSKIN In-depth interviews with contemporary designers, gorgeous historical Native American garments and interesting critiques of cultural misappropriations in fashion can all be found on the website Beyond Buckskin. Beyond Buckskin was launched in 2009 as a place dedicated to showcasing the exciting world of Native American fashion.

From the Northwest Coast to the Great Plains, and from Mohawk territory to the pueblos of New Mexico, Beyond Buckskin features the work of designers from throughout the U.S. and Canada (with a few excursions to other indigenous lands, like Maori Aotearoa). This site provides an unprecedented venue for people of all backgrounds to learn about Native North American adornment and fashion. While the Native fashion movement has been growing, retracting and transforming since the 1940s, Beyond Buckskin brings the different tributaries together into one beautiful river. Through words, images and links, visitors to the site can see the variety, talent and achievements of indigenous fashion designers.

While featuring Native artists sits at the core of this website, some articles also discuss the misappropriation of traditional indigenous aesthetics by the fashion industry. Native American people are incredibly underrepresented and misrepresented in mainstream media and pop culture. When large companies or major fashion designers create mass-produced collections based on Native stereotypes, Beyond Buckskin calls them out on their destructive actions and demands accountability. It argues that companies should collaborate with Native artists instead of excluding them while profiting off caricatures of indigenous cultures. To encourage the incorporation of Native fashion into our everyday wardrobe, the Beyond Buckskin Boutique was launched in May 2012 to provide a space where customers can easily purchase Native-made clothes, jewelry and accessories.

The boutique launched with 11 designers but now features more than 30 different artists, who create items that range from high-end couture to street wear. A primary mission of the boutique is to create a substantial movement of Native representation in the fashion industry. To further this mission, the boutique published the Beyond Buckskin Lookbook, which features designs by more than 15 Native American artists. This publication marks the first time a large group of Native fashion designers came together for a photo shoot, and the book features striking images alongside artist bios and quotes to begin the process of documenting in physical form the exciting fashion being produced today by Native designers. The project also presents Native-made fashion as strong visual forms of sovereignty as it pertains to reclaiming Native representations in mainstream media.

Contemporary Native American designers represent a vital link from the past to the future. They serve as an important bridge from the well-documented Native American clothing of the 1800s to clothing that is yet to be produced by future generations. JESSICA R. METCALFE, P.H.D., FOUNDER, BEYOND BUCKSKIN In February 2012 Michaels' work was featured at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week as part of the official Project Runway program. It was the first time in history that a Native American fashion designer was included in the official roster for NYFW, one of the top four fashion weeks in the world, alongside those in London, Paris and Milan.

Michaels became Project Runway's runner-up, claiming the second-place prize on the show, and she will display her garments again in New York this fall during fashion week in September. Thanks to Michaels' successes and the hard work of the other designers mentioned above, young Native American designers everywhere are expanding their goals and boldly pushing their artistic visions forward. They are active participants in planning fashion events, publishing catalogs and selling their work online and in boutiques throughout the world. It is now easier than ever to buy or acquire clothing, jewelry and accessories made by Native American fashion designers. Native designers realize the value of fashion and continue to tap its power.

They look within themselves and draw inspiration from their backgrounds and experiences. They know how to translate the artistic traditions of their Native communities to create items that can be appreciated and enjoyed by anyone and everyone. Furthermore, in staying away from stereotypes, they present a new vision and a new version of "the Native" in fashion. Let's support these creative minds and give our indigenous designers the opportunity to show us the potential of Native fashion. 2013 INDIAN MARKET 45.