The Philadelphia Inquirer from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania • Page N04

www.philly.com THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER Sunday, August 17, 2003 THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER www.philly.com N5 N4 A The victors at Little Bighorn Indians get equal time at the Montana battlefield, with a new tribute to their "Spirit Warriors. "After all, they won "Custer's Last Stand. Area of map below UNITED STATES Yellowstone River MONT. 87 Billings Little Bighorn 4 Battlefield National Crow Indian Monument Reservation (HE' Bighorn River Custer (m f72 National Forest Little Custer BOB ZELLAR Billings (Mont.) Gazette horn ianonai Forest River (338) 10 for the Road By Donald D. Groff You can plan now to attend these weekend events, which will occur within a few weeks and are within a day's drive of Philadelphia.

1. Washington Square Outdoor Arts Festival. Aug. 29-Sept. 1 and Sept.

6-7. New York. Festival features more than 200 artists exhibiting, selling, and talking about their work in a 21 -block area surrounding Washington Square Park. 212-982-6255. 2.

Power boat show. Sept. 4-7. Atlantic City. The 17th annual In-Water Power Boat Show includes about 500 motor yacht and sports boats.

Farley State Marina. 215-732-8001; www.acinwaterboatshow.com. 3. Oyster Festival. Sept.

5-7. Norwalk, Conn. Festival includes top performers on multiple stages, about 220 juried artists and crafters, a tall ship, oyster slurping and shucking contests. Veterans Park. www.seaport.org.

4. Steam engines. Sept. 4-7. Centre Hall.

Nittany Antique Steam Engine Days includes steam machinery, flea market, crafts, food prepared by steam, parades, antique cars, music, toy tractor show. Penn's Cave. 814-364-1664; www.pennscave.com. 5. Nanticoke Powwow.

Sept. 6-7. Millsboro, Del. Annual celebration of American Indian culture with food, intertribal dancing, craftspeople, and music. Site is 12 miles west of Rehoboth Beach.

302-945-7022. 6. Mountain Craft Days. Sept. 5-7.

Somerset, Pa. Folk festival spotlights rural history and heritage. More than 120 artists and craftspeople. Historical Center. 814-445-6077; www.phmc.state.pa.us.

7. York Fair. Sept. 5-14. York.

Long-running fair offers livestock and agricultural exhibitions, midway, grandstand shows. York Expo Center. 717-848-2596; www.yorkfair.org. 8. Revolutionary War Weekend.

Sept. 6-7. Cape May. Military encampment includes Lamb's Artillery Company, Daniel Morgan's Rifle Corps, 43d Regiment of Foot. Historic Cold Spring Village.

609-898-2300; www.hcsv.org. 9. Fiddlers Jamboree. Sept. 5-7.

Thurman, N.Y Traditional Adirondack storytelling, music and dance reflecting the Irish, Scottish and French Canadian ethnic roots of the region. Memorial Field. 518-623-2696; www.thurman-ny.com. 10. Mushroom Festival.

Sept. 6-7. Kennett Square. The mushroom capital's 18th annual festival offers mushroom house tours, street festival, cooking demonstrations, bands, microbrews, soup and wine. Various locations.

1-888-440-9920. Sheridan 14( Bighorn National WYO. Forest Buffalo wind 6 River Worland By Richard Pyle ASSOCIATED PRESS LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD, Mont. Always worth a visit, even when it was hard to reach and told only half of the story, the site of "Custer's Last Stand" has recently added a new feature a memorial to the Indians who actually won the battle. Few places in the United States evoke the flavor of history as does this national monument in eastern Montana, where Lt.

Col. George A. Custer and his Seventh Cavalry famously met disaster in this dire event of the Indian Wars. History purists can be both amazed and grateful that the grassy hills, ravines and the Little Bighorn River valley, where the Indians camped, look almost exactly as they did on the hot Sunday afternoon of June 25, 1876. Not that there haven't been changes.

Interstate 90, connecting Billings, with Sheridan, now runs nearby but not so obtrusively as to destroy the battlefield's ambience, as interstates have at other historic sites across the country. And the entrance is now marred by a commercial complex gas station, gift shop and casino. This is, after all, part of the Crow Indian Reservation. But once inside the gate and up the hill, history still rules. Dispatched as part of an Army campaign to subdue rebellious tribes in the spring of 1876, Custer divided his 600-man force into three parts and recklessly attacked an Indian encampment whose warrior strength, 2,000 by current estimates, he had grossly misjudged.

The result was the slaughter of Custer and about 200 of his immediate command in what Robert Utley, author of the excellent National Park Service booklet, calls "a spectacular triumph for the American Indian in his four-century struggle to hold back the white people who finally overpowered him." First news of "Custer's Last Stand" reached the East on July 5, stunning a nation still celebrating its 100th birthday. Custer Civil War hero, impetuous, theatrical and fearless became the subject of a controversy that endures today. The site, made a national monument in 1946, was long known as the Custer Battlefield to the considerable annoyance of the Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapaho tribes, who pointed out that their ancestors, after all, were the winners. Crow riders, left, ascended Last Stand Hill on June 25 for the dedication of a memorial to Indian participants in the battle. The dedication marked the 127th anniversary of the battle in which Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapaho warriors wiped out Lt.

Col. George A. Custer and his force of about 200 from the Seventh Cavalry. Bob Larkin of Kimball, above, studies the display at the new memorial, with the "Spirit Warriors" sculpture alongside. At right, the obelisk grave marker on Last Stand Hill.

Thermopolis MILES Boysen Reservoir 0 50 BETH A. KEISER Associated Press LARRY MAYER Billings (Mont.) Gazette Visiting Little Bighorn south Garryowen being the marching song of the Seventh Cavalry. and Sheridan and in Hardin, 12 miles north of the battlefield. Contact Travel Montana at 1-800-847-4868 or on the Web at www.visitmt.com. After decades of political and tribal wrangling, President George H.W Bush signed legislation in 1991 changing the name to Little Bighorn Battlefield and approving an Indian memorial.

On June 25 of this year, the battle's 127th anniversary, the sculpture Spirit Warriors was dedicated in a ceremony attended by 4,000 people. Among them were Indians in tribal dress, cavalry reenactors, and several descendants of Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, the Sioux leaders most identified with the Indian victory. The memorial is on Last Stand Hill, near the granite obelisk marking the mass grave where Custer and 225 officers, troopers, Indian scouts and a few civilians were buried in 1881. (Officers' remains were later moved, including Custer's, now interred at West Point.) A fenced-in area marks where most of Custer's men, including his two brothers, troopers' bodies were found and originally buried. Despite time's passage, Little Bighorn continues to yield secrets.

After a 1983 grass fire burned most of the 640-acre battlefield, archaeologists were able to recover 5,000 artifacts, leading to minor revisions of the course of battle but failing to solve the key mystery of Custer's exact movements. A recently found skull was determined by forensic experts to be that of a man in his 30s, of mixed Indian and white blood, with the teeth of a pipe smoker. A site marker now bears the name of Mitch Bouyer, a Custer scout who was part Sioux and the only member of his group fitting that Tom and Boston, fell. One marker bears George Custer's name, although researchers now say his body actually was found at the hilltop. All of it is worth a visit, especially with the new Indian memorial, a stone-walled circle with explanatory panels for each tribe Crow and Arikara, who scouted for Custer, as well as those who fought him and a bronze-wire sculpture of three warriors on horseback.

Framing the hills and sky, it dramatically captures the artists' vision of ghostly, ephemeral figures from the past. Also marked is the Horse Cemetery, containing the bones of cavalry horses, many of them shot, on Custer's orders, to make breastworks. "We don't often think of horses as making sacrifices in battle, but they, too, 'gave their wrote John Doreen, the Park Service's chief historian for Little Bighorn. Along with its small 1894 brick headquarters building, Little Bighorn has a visitor center with interpretive exhibits and an array of military and Indian artifacts. The well-kept military cemetery holds the remains of 5,000 war veterans, among them Maj.

Marcus Reno, Custer's controversial second-in-command, and several Indian scouts. A 4.5-mile road loop takes visitors south to the Reno-Benteen battlefield, where the rest of the Seventh Cavalry fought off the Indians. A walking path from Last Stand Hill to Deep Ravine passes several markers where America West, Continental, Delta, Northwest, United and US Airways offer connecting service between Philadelphia and Billings, with recent round-trip fares in the $400 range. Little Bighorn Battlefield is easily reached via Interstate 90, 58 miles southeast of Billings, and 60 miles north of Sheridan, Wyo. Visitor information on Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument can be obtained from the National Park Service at 406-638-3204 or at the Web site www.nps.govlibi.

For additional historical background, check out www.friendslittlebighorn.com and www.custerbattle.com. The nearest settlement, a mile away, is Crow Agency, headquarters of the Crow Reservation. In addition to the commercial center at the battlefield entrance, a private museum and gift shop is at Garryowen, five miles A range of motels is available in Billings For information on admission fees or rain dates, use contact number provided. Donald D. Graff's e-mail address is inquirer.travelphillynews.com.

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