The Burlington Free Press from Burlington, Vermont • Page 13

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r-A- A mill IMratWBWBglMJWMWMIWWWIHTO iirnwiKMfi I I v. 1 i- 31 1 r- f' Ik -'-s- Il a -1 a of the round necked bodices that are replacing the extreme decolletage of the past, few seasons. The tassel of pearl beads is attached to a hatpin a very new idea. Tassels Many of Handsomest Gowns of Season Are Black-Sleeves Are Varied and Graceful in Style 1 .4 AJ A 1 Platinum and Steel Embroidery tne New Craze The New FourTailedTrain. 1 The orchid crepe frock is embroidered with steel and orchid colored beads at the lower part of the bodice and upper part of tho.

skirt and the sash is placed very low almost on the hip, a big silk flower in shaded orchid tones focussing color interest. The sash l3 of velvet ribbon and the ends pass under the looped side drapery, appearing again below the skirt hem. With this frock is carried an orchid Few hats have to be anchored by a pin anyway, these days, and the hatpin is more of an ornament than a necessity. Some of the new hatpins have birds of tinted shell on the end. but tassel nds are by far the most popular.

Alongside the tasseled hatpin Is a new lorgnette and chain, all of white metal. Can you imagine anything daintier with a white frock or smarter with a black and white costume? Women of all ages wear lorgnettes because they add such smartness and distinction to the costume especially to the tailored street costume. But to the woman who has had to take to glasses the lorgnette is a real boon. Equipped with reading lenses, it may be lifted to the eyes to study out time tables, restaurant menus, price tickets in shops and the like and nobody need fumble for her eyeglasses and adjust them on her nose, thus assuring all the world that she cannot see without artificial assistance. The white metal lorgnette chain is useful too, when one wants to wear the lorgnette Inside the frock and a string of beads outside.

The white chain is all but invisible against the neck and the lorgnette may be drawn out and used when needed, and then dropped Inside the bodice again. Finger-ring vanity boxes are in great favor just now. The tiny case is big enough to hold a lambswool powder puff, or perhaps two flat puffs, one for powder, one for rouge; and If one does not care to carry the case on her finger it may be tucked into the reticule or into the pocket of one's jacket. The case shown is silver. Metal purses are fashionable again, with the revival of small handbags for use with formal costumes.

The mesh bag to the left is of jrreen gold of very pale tint and has the squara shape that is now so smart. Another bag in long, narrow pouch shape Is of green grold also and has a strap handle of silk ribbon with gold slides. Pictured also is a flat silver vanity and coin purse in dull and bright fin-. ished stripes, with an oblong medallion at the lower corner for the owner's initials. frocks for formal wear are In harmonious combinations of brown.

An artist can combine browns enchant-ingly, but an amateur has to be careful, for browns can clash most fearfully when there i3 not perfect harmony in their tones. A stunning brown afternoon frock la pictured. There are throe shades of brown Georgette, the shade of the vestee be-In? achieved by laying the lighter brown oVer the darker. Heavy bronze bead embroidery" in solid motifs weight the fabric of the tunic and narrow lines of bronze bead embroidery trim the bodice and sleeve. The sleeve Is snug to the elbow where it flares into a slashed cuff and descends to three-quarter length.

The line of the square decolletage is unspoiled by any sort of collar (collars are not fancied on frocks of this type), and a long string of ivory beads in creamy tone adds the last touch of harmony. The frock is very simple, you see a soft, path5-ercd skirt and tunics and a long walst-ed bodice ending under a narrow sash tied at one side. A picture hat of brown velvet and satin, with long brown fringe falling from a satin scarf twisted around the crown, accompanies the brown frock. Slippers and stockings are black. Do not miss the vivid reticule, beaded in shades of pale yellow, apricot and orange with splashes of black it gives a high note of interest to the brown costume.

Embroidery Centered At The Waistline A stunning effect in embroidery of 77? 7YJ beads Is shown on a black dance frock. The white pearl beads are arranged to give a sunburnt effect, the rays spreading outward find partly covering bodice and skirt tl ough the embroid- ered motif has itfi center at a low-tulle makes the waistline. Black frock and the draped side panels, or sashes, that give the Irregular hem line, (and under a flaring tunic of pleated tulle, the straight skirt is edged with a band of silver lace. The bodice has the modest decolletage of the moment and is in three layers; the outer, beaded drapery which goes up over the shoulders; a second bodice of black tulle attached to invisible flesh-tinted tulle, a id the under bodice of black satin, cjit very low. The vivid color note is given by a magnificent feather fad which shades from palest canary to rich peacock blue.

Another dance frock which shows embroidery centered at the waistline is a classically simple model of orchid crepe designed for dinner-dance wear. The rounded decolletage i3 extremely modest and young-girlish and. with the sleeveless effect, carries out the classic suggestion most charmingly. a 1 VA il r- I A A 1 r1 A- r- ll a a-, rM -i A a 'Av A A. 3 1 i 4.

JL" Si A v- a A A -'i A A -a r-. 1 "A --A Ks: Sk, A i 'A rrN Dainty ttrmkets ADD CHARM TO COSTUME 111" new evening frowns are of df two types; the trailing classic 4 frown for dinner wear, and the Xgay, bouffant dance frock. Length i- given to the trailing gown mostly Iy an irregular hem, the ease ot the frkirt dscendinjj In places almost to tae floor ami in other places lifting to Inches above the tloor. This lr-roirnlar effect is not displeasing since fabrics are used to make It and there 13 no definite line of shortness and loneness to offend an eye that adores the symmetrical. Instead the drooping effect is achieved with trail-In? ribbons, long fringes, or with airy fabric like lace or chiffon that hangs below the skirt Itself.

This Irregular skirt hem Is very clearly illustrated In the afternoon frock cf black canton crepe, with flowing and skirt drapery of bead embroidered net in lacy one looks closely, it is ditlieult to determine just where the edso of the skirt really Is, eo soft and graceful are the draperies of irreeu-lar length. First, there Is a straight, rather short skirt of the crepe and over this front and back panels in pointed, apron effect descend several inches below the straight skirt where the points occur. Side panels of the Jetted net. limp ind frraceful as only bead-weighted net can be. descend sttll further -quite to the ankle.

The ftowimr sleeves match the effect of the skirt draperies and make the whole frock extremely lovely in its simple lines of grace. It is worn with blark and slippers and a small, rakish hat of fiame colored taille silk. The fiame tinted ostrich feather that nestles at the left side of the hatbrim curls around the neck and drops forward over the shoulder. DecoMectase So Extreme Evening jrowns are much less daringly decollete than they were. The bodice made of a straight across grirdle suspended from shoulder-straps has at list gone out of fashion and very thankful women should be.

This evening bodice was extremely try ins to moft women and it showed quite too much of scrawny necks, cushioned shoulder blades, prominent collar bones and backa that were neither fair nor dimpled. The new dinner gowns and dance frocks have a decolletafte softly veiled and usually the bodice is quite high at the front, the veiling material suggesting a round or decolletage. though the satin lining may be cut much lower. Many of the evening gowni are sleeveless and very formal afternoon gowns have transparent sleeves of lace, beaded net, or chiffon. Sometimes these sleeves are loose and flowing, sometimes they fit the arm closely to the wrist.

Indeed there Is no more important feature in autumn styles than the changes In sleeves. A great deal of attention is beins concentrated on sleeves Just now; they are in process of some sort of radical change and it will pay to watch them closely. Afternoon frocks have a decidedly modest decolletage. Some of them are rounded out Just below the neckline; others are cut out in a shallow square or ovaL But the back of the afternoon frock always comes quite up t3 the collar line: there Is no deviation about this rule. A frock cut out at the back of the neck may only be worn in the evening.

Brown An Afternoon Shade Getting away from gray, of which she has naturally wearied by this time, Fashion has turned to brown. This once despised color (mud color It used to be calleii. is now at the peak of fashionable favor. A great many of the autumn tailored suits and coats are in brown tones, and handsome I feather fan. The Xew Four-Tailed Train Not only two trains, but four trains are worn now an a new dinner gown of flame colored net shows the four-tailed train which is made of strfps of flame colored velvet.

These strips are attached at the shoulder, looping around the arm and then falling at the sides, two trains at each side. The four long velvet ends may be picked up very easily and tossed over one arm when one dances. The fiame net tunic, straight from neck to hem, is heavily weighted with steel beads, the beads hanging in loops from steel nailheads. Steel and platinum embroideries are eitremely fashionable this season and both afternoon and evening frocks are lavishly trimmed with steel and platinum The flame net tunic is worn over a straight, clinging slip of self-toned satin. THAT are pictured.

One is a string of graduated beads in a most exquisite periwinkle blue shade- lively with either a black or a white frock. To the right of this necklace is one with mauve tinted beads round and long beads-strung on a fine white metal chain with small filagree beads at- intervals. A mauve tinted baroque pearl ornament swings from the necklace. At the extreme left Is a string of small pearl beads in graduated sizes, a. very dainty necklace, this, with a clasp of Pearl, Silver And Platinum Is Fancied LINEN TEA NAPKINS EASY TO MAKE ORTH while pick-up work for autumn days on the porch will be a set of serviettes or tea nap-whieh you may present to an kins autumn bride or decide to keep yourself for use at afternoon bridge parties.

These tiny napkins, purchased in the shops are very expensive be-1 cause of the hand work that goes into them, but they may be made very easily at horpe in spare moments. Any woman can crochet dainty filet corners for such napkins. Number 100 cotton is used and a fine hook, and any book of instructions will furnish several easily copied patterns. The napkins are made of linen no lesser fabrld will give them proper distinction-and the edges are finished with a but-; tonhole stitch set in with a crochet hook. I Knitting Stitch putting the thread through.) Then knit two and repeat the process to the end of the row.

Going back, knit two, put the thread forward and take off two, purling fashion, then slip the loop of wool across the needle off, and continue thus across the row. Repeat every row, being careful to knit two first, then take off in purling fashion and then slip off the loop. Do not put the wool forward when knitting. Looping it in front of the needle makes the loop that is slipped off next time across. The finished fabric will show on both sides vertical stripes of ribbing alternating with a ladderwork of crosswise strands.

And there will be two layers of fabric which you can pull apart with your hands. Shetland 5'arn knitted with medium size needles make a very soft, thick afghan for the baby. For a chaise longue or couch afghan, use heavier wool and larger needles. i RIXKETS are growing daintier and less gaudy. Gay colors and flamboyant designs are passing and these little accessories of drtbs show more delicate patterns and the white gleam of platinum, silver and pearl rather than the gorgeous-ness of strong color blended with grold.

Xeckchains are apt to be of white beads; of pearls, or white coral or carved Ivory, and when color is Introduced it Is very dainty color. Strings of coral are worn with certain costumes, and there are strings of gorgeous red bfcad3 and of deep blue beads to mattfif'some special frocks; but mostly one sees the dainty white beads. Perhaps this is because the Paris vogue is now for black, or black-and-white, and with a black frock nothing is smarter than a long string of white beads. And a string of beads must have length now, to possess smartness. The looped string must fall below the oval or decolletage of the bodice, not within the decolletage.

Unless one can have really handsome pearl beads these cost a substantial price it is better to select white coral, or the massive carved ivory beads that come from China and Japan. The only trouble with the Ivory beads Is that they inevitably turn yellow In time. But they can be washed often and while their whiteness lasts they art very smart and effective. Black and white beads strung in alternation are extremely smart. If you have a moderately long pearl bead string, and wish to lengthen it to fashionable proportions, restrlng your pearl beads with round cut jet beads; It will not matter If the black 'beads are a little larger, or a little smaller than the white ones Indeed so much smarter? Select your black beads ac- rnlirf tr tlift lontrth vrm wish to make your necklace; jet beads of larger size will make your necklace more than twice as long as the pearl bead string you slart with.

If you do not want so much length use tiny, sparkling jet beads between the pearl beads. A single strand of waxed thread, passed without a needle through the beads, is better than several lengths of silk or cotton thread used with a needle. No clasp is necessary for long strings of beads slip easily over the head. Two new necklaces In delicate color Tho White Glint Of A a 4 '2 1 i -1 -H 'f 1a A tiny diamonds set in white metal. To the right is a handsome string of pearl beads and a shorter necklace of seed pearls in the twisted rope effect.

This dainty necklace is for wear with one For Trinkets Of All Kinds are extremely fashionable just now and a tasseled hat ornament of pearl beads will give special style to a white evening hat; or to a black veivet hat for street wear. Hatpins now are small, dainty affairs. The enormously long pin that was a veritable dagger of danger to everybody in its vicinity is no more. vIt came in when hats were, worn high on the head, over a reinforced pompadour; but with soft, supple hats crushed down on the head there, is no reason for its existence. Try This New MOST interesting new afghan ja among the clan of knitters." Us-13 ingr two needles and a single strand of yarn in the ordinary way, you achieve a double-thickness, of fabric.

That is, when you have finished, there are two layers of knitted fabric splendidly warm for an afghan. It sounds incredible, doesn't it? And that is just the reason every woman who knits is bound to see how it is done and master the queer stitch. Try the stitch first with a short strip of knitting, then when you have mastered the pattern you can make a baby's afghan for the perambulator, or a pale rose colored-afghan for the couch in your bedroom. Here are the directions for the trial strlp: Cast on twenty stitches. Knit two, put the thread forward as though to purl and slip off two stitches on th'e right.

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