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Star Tribune from Minneapolis, Minnesota • Page 61

Star Tribunei
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Issue Date:
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WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 23 1996 Taste STAR TRIBUNE PACE T3i Nutrition Express lane i 1 i Restaurants now must back up nutrition claims Tidbits Al Sicherman Bowled over by Betty's 2 new cereals The appearance of two General Mills breakfast cereals under the somewhat more tantalizing Betty Crocker name (as opposed to the Big logo) calls out for Mr. Tidbit to assess their impact on the na- tion's breakfasts. Star Tribune Photo by Charles Bjorgen Food to go Panaderia Marissa You'll find a great selection of colorful Mexican cookies, fruit-filled pastries and crusty breads at very reasonable prices at the Panaderia MarissaMarissa's Bakery, 2750 Nicollet Av. Minneapolis. You may get a chance to practice your Spanish, as well.

The pastries in the foreground, shown here by bakery employee Lucy Perez Rodriquez, are pan de muertos, a traditional specialty baked to celebrate Dia de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead. Marissa's is open daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; call 871-4519. Jeremy Iggers Food events Nutrition Expo The First annual Twin Cities Natural Health and Nutrition Expo will be held from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m Saturday and 1 1 a.m.

to 6 p.m. Sunday at the Minneapolis Convention Center. Four natural health practitioners will speak on heart disease, cancer, menopause, depression and children's nutrition. The cost is $70 for both days, $40 for one day and $15 for individual seminars. For more information, call 789-4076.

Whole food seminar Elizabeth Archerd will conduct a basic whole food seminar from 10 a.m. to noon Saturday at Lakewinds Natural Foods, 17523 Minnetonka Minnetonka. The event will include a store tour and recipes for using grains, beans and sea vegetables. The cost is $15 for nonmembers, $10 for members. For more information, call 473-0292.

Daily television listings (Monday-Friday) Main ingredient LIFE Noon Wok With Yan NOS Pasquale's Kitchen NOS Great Chefs DSC World Class Cuisine DSC Great Chefs DSC Today, October 23 Cooking With Caprial CD Thursday, October 24 Monterey Cookin' NOS Best of Kerr (2) October 2S Health Smart NOS Marcia Adams' Kitchen ufacturers to send items to independent laboratories to be certified as low-fat, the rules for restaurants allow a claim to be made as long as there is a "reasonable basis" to support it. This can be a recipe or cookbook with nutritional analyses or a nutrient-content data base. Still, some restaurants may choose to forgo health claims entirely. "The regulations are sufficiently complex to confuse the independent restaurants, the mom-and-pop operations," said Jeff Prince, a spokesman for the National Restaurant Association. "Many restaurateurs who I've spoken with concerning this change say 'Well, I'll drop the That's been the most common response anger." But Michael Whiteman, president of Joseph Baum Michael Whiteman restaurant consultants, disagreed.

"I don't think it's a great complicated issue," he said. "If you have a cookbook that's got nutritional analyses and you can demonstrate that you're following the recipes, that's enough. That's not a terrible hardship." But he doubts the rules will have much effect. "I think that probably most restaurants will ignore the whole act," he said. "You're only subject to it if you make a claim and somebody challenges you or asks you to substantiate it.

What are people going to do, call the cop on the corner and say 'There's fat in my salad Arthur Whitmore, a spokesman for the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition at the FDA, said state and local agencies, which usually are responsible for inspecting restaurants, will have to bring violations to the agency's attention. Or consumers can turn in violators. "Many restaurateurs are not afraid of the government as much as the vigilant consumer or the media trying to sniff out a story people who take out a meal and send it to the lab," said Robert Klara, associate editor of Restaurant Business magazine. But for some diners the whole issue is irrelevant. New York's Four Seasons restaurant, which is noted for its "spa cuisine," has found that customers aren't interested in the recipes for those dishes.

"In the past, our chefs used specific guidelines to prepare these items," said Alex von Bidder, a managing partner. "We actually measured things, and we carried the recipes with us, so if someone asked, we could show them." But this is no longer the case. "The truth is nobody cared, and the truth is that still nobody cares." Exchange Club breakfast The Exchange Club of East Minneapolis will hold its 30th annual Pancake Breakfast Sunday at Holy Cross Church, 1621 University Av. Minneapolis. Proceeds will benefit senior and youth neighborhood programs.

The cost is $3 for adults, $1.25 for children 12 and under. For more information call 789-7238. Natural pie recipes James, Deli manager at Lakewinds Natural Foods, 17523 Minnetonka Minnetonka, will teach a class on holiday pies at 6:30 p.m. Tuesday. Recipes include Traditional Squash Pie, Vegan Tofu Squash Pie, Decorative Squash Pie and Sweet Potato Pecan Pie.

The cost is $30 for nonmembers, $25 for members. Call 473-0292. Outdoor cooking A class on barbecuing basics Saturday, October 26 8:66 am "'wwidciaMCuidne DSC Great Chefs DSC Victory Garden (2D Noon J. Pepin's Kitchen CB Noon On the Menu CNN CookingCIA (2) Baking With Julia (23 Cooking With Caprial J. Robinson's Wine (2) 3Pm Burt Wolf's Gatherings Sunday, October 27 World Class Cuisine DSC Great Chefs DSC Monday October 28 F'f ors of Phil.

NOS Rising Star Chefs (2) By Karen Baar New York Times Restaurant owners who want to make nutrition claims for their meals will now have to back them up. In July the U.S. District Court in Washington told the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) it had to regulate health and nutrition claims on menus. The decision followed a suit brought by the Center for Science in the Public Interest and by Public Citizen, two consumer-advocacy groups in Washington, D.C. The organizations said that many restaurants made unsupported or erroneous statements.

They found, for instance, that Legal Sea Foods, a restaurant chain based in Boston, said its dishes flavored with Chinese herbs could relieve headaches and asthma and improve circulation. The groups had some claims tested by laboratories. For example, Chili's "guiltless" fajitas contained 30 grams of fat, not the 17 indicated on the menu. And while Big Boy said its Health Smart Chicken 'n Vegetable Stir Fry Dinner contained 16 grams of fat, laboratory analysis found 27. The real number is still in dispute.

Tony Michaels, Big Boy's vice president of marketing, said that the company stood by its claims and that it tested recipes and sent them to nutritionists for analysis. "We make sure that what our customers see on the menu is 100 percent factual," he said. "What advantage would we gain by misleading the public?" i After the court's ruling, the FDA published "truth in menu" rules that give restaurants nine months to make sure their menu claims comply with definitions for terms including light, reduced, extra lean, low-fat and sugar-free. The words fresh and healthy, as well as symbols such as the little hearts next to menu items, also will be affected. The impact on diners will depend on where they eat.

In many restaurants, the ruling may mean nothing at all, because restaurants are not required to do anything unless they choose to make claims. The greatest changes likely will be in chain or fast-food restaurants. A survey by the Center for Science in the Public Interest found that about 80 percent of the largest chain restaurants include at least one nutrition or health claim. Under the new regulations, justification for the claims need not appear on the menu but must be available if a customer requests it. While the two-year-old rules for packaged food require man- Testedbystqff A checkmark next to a recipe means it has been tested.

Nutritional analysis Diabetic exchanges and nutrient data are calculated by Bea Krinke, a St. Paul registered dieti-tion, or provided by wire services. General information Taste staff can be reached at 673-4483. Lost recipes If you have lost a favorite Taste recipe, send a note with a stamped, self-addressed envelope to Taste, Star Tribune, 425 Portland Av. Minneapolis, MN 55488.

Nominating a Tastemaker Do you know a good cook to recommend for a profile? Tell us briefly in a note why this cook should be featured and what the cook's specialty is. Send your nomination to Tastemaker, Star Tribune, 425 Portland Minneapolis MN 55488, or fax it to 673-7568. Please do not include pictures or recipes. will be held Tuesday from 7 to 8:30 p.m. at the Outdoor Cooking Store, 2225 4th White Bear Lake.

Participants will learn about indirect heat cooking, the proper way to grill a steak and how to roast, sear, bake and smoke food. The cost is $20. To register, call 653-6166. Pastry techniques Carol Brown will teach a class titled "Techniques of Fine Cooking: Pastry" at 6:30 p.m. next Wednesday at Cooks of Crocus Hill, 877 Grand St.

Paul. Participants will learn to make brioche, all-butter tart dough and cream puff pastry. To register, call 228-1333; cost is $50. Colleen A. Coles Send items to Food Events, Star Tribune, 425 Portland Av.

Minneapolis, MN 55488, or fax to 673-7568. Tuesday, October 29 Monterey Cookin' NOS Paul Prudhomme CD Radio Saturday, October 26 Noon Lynne Rossetto Kasper with "The Splendid Table" (KNOW-FM, 91.1 FM) 1:00 p.m. Sue Zelickson with Food for Thought (WCCO, 830-AM) NOTE TV Food Network runs 24 hours daily on King Video Cable system in the St. Croix system (Channel 59) and in northwestern suburbs (Channel 33). DSC Discovery Channel; LRN Learning Channel; NOS -Nostalgia Channel; CNN Cable News Network Cooking' 1 lb.

raw medium shrimp (shelled or not, your choice) 1 lb. fresh snapper (or other firm local fish), cut in pieces Vi lb. sea scallops, cut in half If very large Both he and the army of folks who feed off Cinnamon WwviiePl wnat spills from StretRSy his table tnougnt Betty Crocker Dutch Apple cereal and Betty Crocker Cinnamon i Streusel cereal were pretty good, and they do have a baked-goods flavor, as the backs of the boxes suggest. In fact, Mr. Tidbit opines, they have quite similar baked-goods flavors, so he advises that you don't go out in a baked-goods frenzy and buy both, expecting a huge difference.

Buy one, then when it's gone, buy the other. Kind of a cereal monogamy. Help for the allergic The ingredients lists of food products these days are so full of stuff that they're invariably hard to read. Mr. Tidbit wants to renew his praise of General Mills for using bold type below the ingredients list to highlight the potential allergens in its products.

The list on the new Dutch Apple cereal, for example, ends with this potentially life-saving advice: Contains walnut, almond, milk and wheat ingredients. Packed with plugs The Mr. Tidbit Commercial Concentration Award goes to Hershey Foods for this plug-packed news release suggesting Halloween party favors: "Create 'spooktacular' critters by using such products as York peppermint patties, Mounds Miniatures candies, or Reese's peanut butter cups as bodies. Add Twizzlers candy for legs, Pull-n-Peel candy for whiskers and Reese's Pieces candy for eyes. Use Hershey's Hugs and Hershey's Kisses chocolates, Hershey's Miniatures chocolates and Hershey's Nuggets chocolates to bake jack-o'-lantern faces on paper plates or placements.

Amazin' Fruit Gummy Bears and Scares candies add a frighteningly festive touch to cakes, cupcakes and cookies." That's 11 or 12 (Mr. Tidbit isn't sure whether Scares is a separate candy) product mentions in one suggestion. Amazin'. Craftiness, if not Kraft You perhaps know that Kraft sold its caramel and marshmal-low businesses last year, and that although the Kraft name is still on those products, they now come from Favorite Brands International. Mr.

Tidbit believed that meant there would be no new Kraft caramel products, but he was wrong. Just in time for dipping apples, Favorite Brands has introduced Kraft Caramel Dip, with IV2 grams of fat per 2-table-spoon serving, compared with 7 grams in the leading brand (whatever that is Mr. Tidbit is not a caramel dip connoisseur). A honey of a flake More-or-less simultaneous with the advent of the Betty Crocker cereals, Kellogg is introducing Honey Crunch Corn Flakes corn flakes with nuts and honey. As is the case in the Betty Crocker Dutch Apple cereal, the nuts turn out to be almonds, not the peanuts that typically have been any undescribed "nuts." Maybe Mr.

Tidbit missed some sea change in the world of nuts and legumes (peanuts aren't really nuts, but that's another matter). In any case, Kellogg's too has been paying some attention to potential allergy problems, and although Mr. W-ftdHegf! Tidbit has men tioned this once before, fairness probably requires that he do so again now. The ingredient label on Honey Crunch Corn Flakes does not mm follow General Mills' lead in highlighting the presence of almonds, but it is followed by a bold-type statement indicating, for the interest of those with allergies, that corn used in the product might include traces of soybeans. simple with 'Guerrilla Fast Cioppino This seafood stew can be made in part ahead of time.

You can add the seafood at the last minute to simmer in the sauce. The seafood mix can be varied. This recipe includes shrimp, snapper, sea scallops and clams. 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 2 c.

marinara sauce (or store-bought cioppino sauce) 2 (8-oz.) bottles clam juice lA tsp. ground pepper Salt, if needed 16 small cherrystone clams, scrubbed, or 16 green-lipped mussels (Look for clams that are tightly closed. Don't use any that won't close.) Keeping it "Guerrilla Cooking" by Mel Walsh (St. Martin's Press, 196 pages, $19.95) By Siobhan Loughran Newhouse News Service Mel Walsh has launched a sneak attack on dinner. It's called "Guerrilla Cooking," a hardcover book packed with tips, recipes and consolation for the cook who also is dealing with career, kids, crises or all the above.

Walsh started out with 400 recipes, whittled them down to 200, triple-tested them and then distributed them to family and friends for final testing and evaluation. Walsh is an expert when it comes to paring down complex meals. She's "a full-time working mom with a 45-minute-each-way commute who's got four hungry kids waiting for dinner when I get home." She learned how to turn a hassle into a hot meal. Walsh believes in simplicity. Around her dining room walls she has stenciled the line of the hymn "Simple Gifts" 'Tis a gift to be simple, 'tis a gift to be free." She passes along basic tips to make life easier.

Simple stuff, like putting a pot of water on to boil for pasta and throwing the vegetables into the pot of pasta to cook. What about all those beautiful Cookbook review cookbooks out there with long lists of exotic ingredients and photos of fabulous presentations? "I call that romantic nonfic-tion and keep it beside my bed for light reading," Walsh says with a laugh. Walsh thinks the perfection photographed in those books is rough on people trying to be perfect themselves. "People can't compare themselves to the chefs. After all, they the chefs have stylists to work with, fresh produce delivered directly to their door, a staff of underlings to assist them, and oodles of time to spend in the kitchen.

Real people don't." But what about Martha Stewart? "Ma.tha Stewart was a result of the corporate upswing of the '80s. She brought back something: homemaking as an honored profession." But, Walsh notes, Stewart has an enormous staff to help her. In Walsh's opinion, there is nothing worse than a white-knuckle dinner party, with the host or hostess worried about every detail. If something isn't right, don't be afraid to admit it. There is always the next course, and thanks to Walsh's book, there's a friendly resource available to get you through it.

Note: Ask guests to shell their shrimp at the table, picking them out of the cioppino. That works well with the smaller shrimp that have insignificant veins; but if you want big shrimp or your guests aren't the kind to plunge into a chowder, buy cleaned and shelled shrimp. In a large skillet over high heat, cook the onion in the olive oil until soft. Add the marinara sauce, clam juice, ground pepper and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer over very low heat for 5 minutes.

If making this dish ahead, cover and refrigerate at this point. Add the clams to the sauce bubbling in the large skillet. Cover and cook 5 minutes. Add the shrimp, fish and scallops. Cover and cook another 5 minutes, or until the clams open.

Serve in soup bowls. Have warm French bread available for mopping up the juices. Cioppino is really good with cold beer or a hearty red wine. Place a big bowl in the middle of the table for discarded shells. Serves 6.

Each 16 serving has approximately 2 vegetable 6 lean-meat 290 calories; 11 gm. carbohydrate, 44 gm. protein, 7 gm. fat, 765 mg. sodium, 160 mg.

cholesterol and 93 mg. calcium..

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