The Washington Post from Washington, District of Columbia • Page 23

4 'M WASHINGTON POST: SUNDAY, JANUARY 29, 1911. WASHINGTON The Smart Woman and Her Gowns--What She Wears, the Time, and the Place. A CCORDINQ to the press dispatches "the best dressed woman" of St. Louis has Just died In that city, receiving public mention on the first pase of many metropolitan journals solely on account of her distinction in dress. So.

again, with Bob Acres, let us say, Dress (iocs make a difference." The. fact that any one woman 'of a large community can be described In the 1 singular number and superlative degree aA rc-Kai1- her dress Is of particular Interest here and now, when the Capital if experiencing vagaries of costume that rfhrfdten society, best and second best. i ridicule and censure. M's. Taft, from the morning of March 4 when she appeared at the Capitol to witness her husband's inauguration in the smartest silk tailored costume black lace carrying: out the long narrow style of drapery.

Mrs. Martin A. Knapp, wHe of the newly appointed Judge of the court of commerce, but no stranger in the official world, where she and her husband have been making friends for years, looked particularly well in a gown of blue and white satin marquisette, each material forming a separate garment, the satin being a foundation gown, with slightly trained skirt, and the marquisette an overdress, combining the features of tunic and polonaise. The latter had Us square embroidered The lower dress, which was slashed almost to the waist, was also elaborately embroidered In blue, the latter being one of the French blues in light tone. The hard and fast fashion of a white being white and a black gown being ed on taste and g-ood Judgment, which insures Its author and her followers being correctly attired on every possible occasion, which is, according to the highest social authorities, the see i of all good dressing.

That Washington society has not yet this guiding maxim of other i jpitals. wag obvious to every one at the White House on Tuesday evening, where, despite the Importance of the occasion and the example of Mrs. Tatt unit the ladies of the, cabinet, almost one-fourth the feminine guests appeared in Kowna suited to nothing more formal than a matinee performance at the tlicater. Or a quiet afternoon at home. "Hull-necked, round-skirted gowns were beyond narae of color and material uctngj vi i i ctiiu "Washington had ever seen, to the latefft ack wlth scarce any description need- state reception on Tuesday evening, has set an example of good dressing that is In itself -worth the affectionate gratitude of American womanhood, for It Is found- THE PRESIDENT'S DAUGHTER AND SOME OF HER HOSTESSES to convey to one's friends a clear picture of what one is wearing, Is a thing 6f the past, for no general description can now I be made to nt any particular costume, the art of dressmaking having reached a plane wherein detail Is everything, and no two gowns are ever alike.

Color is everywhere except on crepe-trimmed garments. As regards the white and black for evening wear, blue Is a favorite con- binatlon with the former and pink with the latter, both pink and blue, being in totally new shades. Olga Converse, who became Mrs. Augustus Darby on Wednesday, had in her particularly well-selected trousseau an ideal gown showing the blue and white combination in its smartest and latest form. The foundation slip was of white satin with narrow, high-waisted bv no means confined to women who sklrt and square tralnp the Iatter scant sometimes plead the age limit against as tne re3t of tne sklrt and weighted to i icmventional evening dress, although Iay flat Over was a ch ift on slip most pel sons recognize the fact that a woman too old to dress to the occasion Is too old to accept on Invitation thereto, and the graceful thing for her to do is send a polite regret.

The woman In a hlsh-necked gown at a lute reception or a cabinet dln- party Is just as much out of place as the woman In a low-necked gown at a table, or a elrl in a fur turban assist- in? in an afternoon tea. All of which au- too numerous features of this particular season. The last White House reception, how- cr, hrouKht out some superlatively good K'wns. as well as a company that In dist i and personal Interest was second to none of the season. Mrs.

Taft looked unusually well In the i and most becoming gown she has wrn-n this winter, a trained robe of bro- i velvet, in a rich, warm cherry Khridc, with the newest effect in sleeves, which show the passing of tho kimono a i return to the fascinating lace ruf- flf Tho top of the gown also showed banding of cream white lace in becoming effect, while the lines of the entire wn followed the natural curves of Mrs. T.iffs rraceful, iflrlish figure. Her hair beautifully coiffed In a soft, rather small pompadour, and graceful coils at the back of her well-shaped head. That Taft is the best-gowned mls- I'-ss thn White House has ever known Is a mutter of social history, in which the I nMic prints and private tea table chronic, k-s agree with a surprising unanimity. Mrs Sherman and the ladies of the ubinet all were models of elegance, this tclnn a cabinet famous for good dressing, i the Judiciary, which furnished the Kueita of honor, included some notably woman as well as famous and Interesting men.

Mrn. White, wife of the Chief Justice, at usual, presented a distinguished ap- pt-nrance, wearing a new gown of heavy silver satin made in the prevailing duiped model, but with sweeping rather than clinging skirt, and a wealth of lace about the decolletage. Mrs. Lurton wore one of the best gowns of the evening In a light shade of rerich blue, of rather heavy satin, with which white and black tulle were combined in new and smart lines. This very becoming gown was undraped and in severe lines, the overdress fitting close- and smoothly from decolletag-e- to well below the knees, but opening at the left fiont.

where a flat, narrow sash of the tulle fell trom the waist line, after bandIns: the top of the corsage. Here the tulle was held by slides of Jet and rhlne- stoncs in about the same proportion of white anil black as shown In the tulle trimming Tho underskirt of satin was iintriinmed and ran into a graceful close trrtln Mrs Oliver Wendell Holmes modified the. usual severity of her evening toilets bv ivearincr a charming gown of apricot natln delicately embroidered in small ttorai designs and made with close-fitting Mrs Holmes despises the arts of tho hairdresser, wearing her silver white tresses with the same simplicity at a ball or reception as at her own well- ordered breakfast table. Mri. McKenna wore rich new gown narrow, too, but with scant graceful fullness, confined at the neck by a flat em- plecement of white lace, and at the high waist line by a black satin glrdla The neck was cut square and the sleeves a kimono shape, coming, halfway to the elbow over the dainty close undersleeves of white lace.

A black velvet gown, on the latest and most graceful of narrow lines, was worn the past week by Mrs. Morris Evans, showing the charming effect of the new Pink tone as a corsage decoration. Mrs. Evans' gown was of panne velvet with one of the longest trains this season, having the skirt drawn In very closely about the figure and an oversklrt fitting as smoothly as a bandage, but with loose, low edge, coming midway between belt and knee. The square-cut, closely molded bodice was banded by brilliants of crystal, silver, and jet, forming a deep Greek-key design, and over this was folded the afore-mentioned pink tulle, with a further color touch given by one large and perfect pink orchid high on the left side.

A fascinating costume, leaving the beholder in grave doubt as to its color, but very beautiful In effect, is that worn by Mrs. Ernest G. Walker, and appears to have gold and pink glints equally divided, while the transparent top is of natural-' colored cluny lace In place of the more usual and ordinary chiffon or marquisette. The foundation is satin in the pink or apricot tone, over which is fitted the cluny tunic, coming to a long point in with side drapery of golden bronze chiffon. The latter Is held down by slides of semiprecious stones in the topaz coloring and dull gold-.

The bodice is almost entirely of gold, either lace or tissue, studded in the mock topaz, and the short sleeves of the cluny embellished by gold and pink threads or very tiny paillettes. Worn with the necklace of Florentine gold, with gold slippers and hosiery, and the costume completed by a fan of gold lace on. inlaid ivory sticks, Mrs. Walker is one of the best gowned young matrons to be met in any important company. Mrs.

Stanley Matthews, widow of a former justice, and Miss Julia Strong, daughter of the late justice of the Supreme Court, who were among the earlier guests to greet the receiving party at the judiciary reception, later formed center of an interesting group in the green parlor. Mrs. Matthews, In her own right one of Washington's most famous hostesses, wore a superb velvet gown of the eggplant color, the front and sides heavily embroidered in long, running motifs of several tones of the same much admired shade. The square neck was finished by a flat, smoothly drawn band of black tulle with delicate but very effective edge fit gold. Miss Strong wore a pagodc-blue gown of striped chiffon or marquisette over self-colored silk, all one tone, with round, low neck and train.

Mrs. William Alden Smith, one of the comparatively few women -present from the senatorial circle, wore a superb white satin, made with the high waist line and graceful, narrow satin skirt with train, all without a visible seam, and in straight. In B'rench blue brocade, with panels of i undraped lines. The corsage was covered SOCIETY CONTOItJBD FROM SEVENTH PAGE. BaaJchead Lee.

Mr. Charles Page Waller, Mr. Robley D. Brumbach, Mr. Griffith TThler, Mr.

Dennis Ramsay, Mr. Conrad Johnson, Mr. James Roberts, Dr. "Vivian P. Berry, Mr.

James S. Douglas, Mr. Edmund Hunt Roberts, Mr. Richard Chlchester, Mr. Milton French, Mr.

Robert Standing, Mr. Edmund P. Hunter, Mr. Edward S. Fawcett, Mr.

Arthur Herbert, Mr. Beaudrio Howell, Mr. Windsor Snowden, Mr. Howard Mr. Worth Smith, Mr.

Getfrge Washington Lewis, Mr Henry O'Bannon Cooper, Mr. "Wallace 'Llndsey, Mr. Philip Dawson, and Mr. William Brooke, The figures of the g-erman were led by Mr. James Sidney Douglas, Miss Elizabeth Lloyd.

Other guests were Mrs. John Brookfleld, of Springfield, Miss Powell, (Mr. Albert Doyle 3rockett, Mr. George a French, and Mr. J.

Clinton Smoot Rose MacDonald entertained at a supper Tuesday evening at her home In Cameron street, in honor pf Dr. Freeman and Dr. Williams, who lectured before the Antituberciflosis Society In the Young- People's building that evening. Other guests were Mr. and Mrs.

William J. Booths, Representative and Mrs. Charles C. Carlln, Mrs. David J.

Howell, Mr. and Mrs. Clarence C. Leadbeater, Miss Fannie Herbert, Miss Elizabeth Simmons, Miss Beall Daingerfleld, Mr. Albert D.

Brockett, Mr. Robert S. Jones. Dr. Willlam M.

Smith, and Mr. Edward S. Leail- beater. Mr. and Mrs.

Sills, of Baltimore, are the week-end guests of their daughter, Mrs. Robert L. Payne, at her home in Rosemont. Mrs. George P.

Anderton was the hostess Monday afternoon at her home on Braddock Heights at the meeting of the Senior Bridge Club. The guests of the club were Mrs. William Smoot, Mrs. by a bertha of pearls In various sizes, from a tiny plnhead to a large pea. This fell from the top of the gown to below the waist line In front; also came well over the short-waisted back.

A band' of brown fur edged the skirt, but between pearls and fur nothing -spoiled the beautiful sheen of the rich, soft satin. Mrs. Truman H. Newberry, who has recently reopened her house for the winter, looked as youthful and charming as in "the days when she was one of the receiving party, in a gown of blue and black brocade and chiffon. The brocade formed a close, narrow ekirt untrimmed, and with only the suspicion of a deml- train, and the chiffon' one of the modi- fled Russian overdresses; a round tunic ended at the knees, with a 4-lnch band of beads, showing both blue and Jet.

A heavy dazzling corsage trimming: of the same combination covered the top of tunic and sleeves. Another gown in the genuine king's bluo which Is almost as dark as a "cobalt tint but never dull or dead, was worn by Mrs. William E. S. Griswold, a valued addition to the ranks of the smart youngr matrons, who accompanied Mr.

Justice and Mrs. McKenna. The gown was of heavy but soft satin with long train, and the top finished by a flchu of self-colored marquisette. The latter described a short pointed cape in the back, crossed the shoulders smoothly, then fell loosely down the front pf tlTE ekirt. Mrs.

Cropper, who found particular charm in this, her first White House reception of six or seven years, was a regal looking figure in black velvet, made during her recent residence in France, and following 1 the fashion in Its closp. well-cut lines, yet showing: the individuality of its handsome wearer by the narrow surplice garniture of exquisite point lace. With this Mrs. Cropper wore pearl and diamond ornaments of great beauty. EOCKVIIXE SOCIETY.

One of the leading events In Rockville social circles during the week was a progressive euchre party given by Miss Margaret Dawson in honor of her guest, Miss Coulton, of Woodville, Md. Luncheon preceded the playing. The first prize was won by Mrs. L. L.

Nicholson. Olivers present were Mrs. William Bouic, John L. Brunett, Mrs. Annie Mc- GuUf, Mrs.

Robert B. Peter, Mrs. Adair Brooke, Mrs. Charles H. White, Irs.

Addle Maddox, Mrs. Lee Offutt, Mrs. Howard Larcombe, Mrs. Edward Dawson, Mrs. James Emory, Mrs.

Walter Mobley, Mrs. Thomas Griffith, Mrs. "Walter A. Williams, Mrs. Ella Anderson, Misses Margaret and Priscilla Dawson, Cora and 'Louise Edmonston, Rose Henderson, Mary Lyddane, and Elsie England.

Mrs. William H. Holmes, of Washington, gave an interesting talk before the Rockville Women's Club, Thursday afternoon at a meeting hefd at the home of Mrs. A. F.

Prescott. Her subject was "French Art in Household Decoration." There was large attendance of members and others. Miss Eva Morgan has returned to her home in Aberdeen, after visiting Miss Packard here. Mrs. Harry Beard entertained a number of her Hockville friends a tea a few afternoons ago in honor of Mrs.

Hannan, of Reading, who wias visiting in Rockville. A number of young people in Rockville have organized a dancing club, with the following officers: President, William Top row, left to right--Countess Von Bernstorff (photo by Harris-Kwing), Mrs. Richard Ballingler (photo by BuCk), Miss Helen Taft (photo by Harris-Ewing). Bottom picture--Miss Gladys Hinckley (photo by Paine). The "30" Locomobile Limousine will increase your pleasure at the theater, add enjoyment to the social Vamenities of town, and submerge half the care of shopping.

It is quiet in operation, and with every comfort and refinement that naturally appeals to a person of your tastes. An interchangeable touring body can be added, making the car correctly equipped for every season of the year. Demonstration Cordially Arranged. LOCOMOBILE COMPANY OF AMERICA, il24 CONNECTICUT AVENVE. Telephone North 2O3O.

TTnder Selden Patent. Beck; vice president, Clements Offutt; secretary, Miss Bettlna Prescott; treasurer, Griffith Warfield; refresnments committee. Misses Shirley Mason, Bessie Brewer, and Bettina Prescott. Invitations are out. for the marriage of Miss Edna Peck, of Herndon, and Mr.

Harry W. Ball, of Rockville. The ceremony will take place in Herndon February 8. An interesting meeting of the executive board of the Montgomey County Federation of Woman's Clubs was held at the home of the president, Mrs. Robert.

C. Warfield, in Rockville. Those present were Mrs. E. J.

Hartshorne, Mrs. Gilpln, Mrs. Henry H. Miller, Mrs. George Ashworth, Mrs.

J. Harry 'Cunningham, Mrs. William C. Beck, Mrs. E.

L. Bullard, Mrs. Moore, Mrs. Bancroft, Mrs. Harry Armstrong, Mrs.

Chendler, Mrs. Wallace Welsh, Mrs. R. C. Warfield, Mrs.

Townsend, and Miss Anna Farquhar. William and Mrs. Thomas W. The members present were T. Marshall Jones, Mrs.

George Uhler. Mrs. Louis C. Barley, and Mrs. David J.

Howell. Miss Grace Wilson, of Rising Sun, is the guest of her 'sister, Mrs. C. E. Dare, at her home In Rosemont.

Miss Mary Deltweher. of Philadelphia; Miss Sue Adams and Miss Marriott Hass- I ler. of Washington, are the of (Mr. and Mrs. J.

Marriott HiU, at their home in Prince street. Mrs. John M. Johnson entertained at cards Tuesday- afternoon at her home In 1 Prince street in honor of her house guest, Mrs. Jones, of Baltimore.

Those invited to meet Mrs. Jones were Mrs. Casslua F. Lee, Mrs. T.

Marshall Jones, Mrs. Thomas W. Robinson, Mrs. William B. Smoot, Mrs.

S. French, Mrs. William J. Boothe, Mrs. Gardner L.

BO9the, Mrs. Hugh McGulre, Mrs. Clarence C. Leadbeater, Miss Elizabeth Potts, Miss Helen Norris Cummlngs, and Miss Rose MacDonald. The prizes were won by Mrs.

George S. French and Mrs. William J. Boothe, jr. The Matinee 600 Club met Wednesday with Mrs.

William J. Boothe, at her home in North Washington street. members present were Mrs. Thomas W. Robinson, Mrs.

William B. Smoot, Mrs, Arthur Snowden, Mrs. George S. French, Mrs. Emmett C.

Dunn, and Miss Elizabeth Potts. The prize was won by Mrs. Smoot. Mrs. Clarence C.

Iseadbeater entertained the Afternoon Bridg-e Club, of which she is a member, Wednesday at her home in North Washington street. The guests of the club were Miss Susie DImmock, of Norfolk, and Mrs. David Janney Howell. The members present were Mrs. C.

William Wattles, Mrs. Laurence Stabler, Mrs. James Monroe Love, Mrs. Hugh McGuire, and Mrs. Gardner L.

Boothe, who won the prize. Miss Cora Jones was the hostess Wednesday at her home in Prince street at the first'meeting of the Evening Card Club, of which she Is a member. The guests of the club were Miss Christina Waggaman and Mr. Mark Shields, of "JVashington. The members present were Miss Pauline Nicol, Miss Julia Nicol, Miss Alice Anderton, Miss Lola Ashton, Miss Eliza Douglas, Miss' Nellie Uhler, Miss Esther Green, Mr.

Milton French, Mr. Worth Smith, Mr. Conrad Johnson. Mr. Beaudric Howell, Mr.

William Brooke, Mr. Jack Barrett, and Mr. Edmund Hunter, The prizes were won by Miss Ashton and Mr. Smith. Miss Jean Brent entertained the Junior Card Club Wednesday evening at her home in North Alfred street.

The play- era- were Miss Susie DImmock, of Norfolk; Miss Elizabeth Lloyd, Miss Georgie French, Miss Hattie Douglas, Miss Mary Snowden, Miss Mildred Foster, Mr. Robley D. Brumbach, Mr. James S. Douglas, Mr.

Edward Stabler Fawcett, Mr. Garnett Pitts, Mr. Wallace Lindsey, and Mr. Edmund Hunt Roberts. The prizes were won by Miss Douglas and Mr.

Fawcett. Miss Mary G. Moore, of Satdy Spring, left a few days ago to spend several weeks visiting in New Wilmington, and Richmond. i Mrs. Mabel Foss, of Baltimore, is visiting her parents, Mr.

and Mrs. Mordecai Fussell, near Sandy Spring. Miss Mary Almoney left early in the week with her uncle, Mr. A. B.

Almoney, of Hagerstown, for New York, where they will spend a week or ten days. Mrs. George Prior Anderton ertertalned at bridge Thursday afternoon at her home on Braddock Heights. Her guests were Mrs, John Hunton Foster, Mrs. David J.

Howell, Mrs. Clarence C. Leadbeater, Mrs. James, Monroe Love, Mrs. Phullppa Waltles, Miss Carrie Stribllng, and Miss Rose MacDonald.

Miss Lila Barrett entertained the Junior Bridge Club Thursday afternoon In the Elks' Home In Prince street. Those playing were Mrs. Percy Evans, Mrs. Anderson Sommers, Mrs. Harry CONTINUED ON TENTH PAGE.

TRADE.MARK C.G.SLOANCO.,Inc BKC3SEKKD. WILL SELL 1106 Street Largest "Women's Outer'garment Store South of New York. 'We Court Comparison." Final clearance before inventory! All garments must go! Prices have been cut to cost and below Suits that sold up to $27.95 10 All colors, in Broadcloths, Serges, Finest Broadcloths, Serges, Veland Fancy Cloths. vets, and Best Fancy Suits that sold up to $40 16,95 Suits that sold up to $69.50 25 The Highest Grade Fabrics and most exclusive models of Suits for stout women sold up to $15 Dresses that sold up to $37.50 at $12.75 A most extraordinary offering--silk, voile, marquisette, serge, and cloth dresses of highest grades, of which we sold hundreds, up to $37.50, at Dresses and gowns that sold up to $60--at $25 19.95 for coats that sold up to $40 Finest Seal Plush, Caracul Cloth, Imported Broadcloths, and Exclusive Mixtures. $1A A A for coats that 1U.UU sold up to $27.50 A great assortment of Coats of the most popular Mixed Fabrics.

Broken lots less than cost to close Two full-length Hudson Seal Coats--sizes 38 and 42--that sold at $160--cut to $90.00 One Hudson Seal Coat--three-quarter length--size 36--that sold at $100--cut to $55.00 Two Girls' Coats--sizes 10 and 12 years--were $10--now $3.98 Twenty Women's and Misses' Coats--mixtures, sold at to $6.95 Nine Girls' Two-Piece College Suits--sizes 12 to 16 years--were $15--cut to $5.00 Lot of Taffeta Silk Underskirts--all colors Lot of Net, Silk, and Plaid Waists--were $5 and $6--now $2.69 At AUCTION Monday and Tuesday (January 30 and 31) J. GUMPERTZ ENTIRE STOCK OF HIGH-GRADE FURS Thousands of dollars' worth of superb Furs are represented in this sale. Washingtonians are almost, if not quite, as familiar with the quality of GUMPERTZ'S Furs as New Yorkers. (New York has been the home of the GUMPERTZ factory for years.) Every piece of Fur in the stock is to -go under the -hammer--absolutely nothing will, be reserved. The prices are entirely iri the hands of the public--you pay exactly what you want to pay.

Every single piece of these (Furs is backed by the absolute guarantee of the manufacturer, J. GUMPERTZ, 22 E. 21st Street, New York. Sale Starts Promptly at .11 A. M.

Tomorrow at J.GUMPERTZCO,St; IMDE.MAHI 1307FStreetN.W. C. G. SLOAN Auctioneers INEWSPAPERif NEWSPAPER!.