Courier-Post from Camden, New Jersey • Page 104

1 0CC COURIER-POST, Thursday, December 13, 2001 -ADVERTISEMENT- Where food-and decor-are equally breathtaking. with chopped tomatoes, grilled portabello mushrooms and shaved Parmesan in an outstanding white-wine sauce perfect for sopping up with the good rolls. An enormous cup of tasty tomato-vegetable soup was so thick with pulled chicken, orzo, celery, carrots, green beans, zucchini, fresh tomatoes, onions, yellow squash, chopped (buy woody) asparagus in rich hollandaise sauce, finished with brandied cream. Decorated with finely chopped carrots, red cabbage and parsley, the oversized plate was filled with chopped tomatoes, zucchini and excellent smashed potatoes. Simply named "crab and asparagus" (also $14.95) was a deep dish of al dente linguini (substituted without explanation for the menu-promised Pasta Cheech 1745 Deptford Center Deptford, 856-848-3878 Open: Lunch 11 :30 a.m.

4 p.m. seven days; dinner 4-10 p.m. until 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat.

Price range: Appetizers average $6.50, entrees $14.50. Credit cards: Major cards. Non-smoking section: Yes. Facilities for handicapped: Yes Atmosphere: Breathtaking "country sophistication." A silver brick wall is painted with three fanciful murals: a plate of spaghetti in tomato sauce alongside a ripe tomato and head of garlic; a caricature of a chef tasting his homemade sauce, and a fish head with a bottle of wine. The semi-open kitchen is screened by a vibrant farmers market display of succulent vegetables-tomatoes, yellow squash, zucchini, eggplant, red and green bell peppers, carrots, and both red and white onions, all polished and gleaming.

The facade of the wood-burning brick pizza oven sparkles in a crazy-quilt pattern of brightly colored tiles in red, yellow, blue, green and orange. The same tiles on the mural wall and the vegetable stand. The gold-colored ceiling and soffit contrast with rough-textured, salmon-colored walls; small, antiqued quarry tiles are on the floor. Nicely spaced tables are set with white cloths with brown wrapping-paper overlays, white cotton napkins, a bottle of sweet olive oil, and comfortable black and white woven faux-rattan chairs. A banquette along the rear wall and seat covers in high-backed booths are covered in multicolored fabric that picks up the rich salmon and gold.

Fresh, marvelously chewy pizza rolls came with rich olive oil sprinkled with cracked pepper corns. Because the main course includes both soup and salad, there's little need to order an appetizer. Still, port Florentine ($5.95) was an exceptional first course-a generous portion of fresh spinach sauteed with chopped garlic, served i mmm Superb home-cooked food served in a breathtaking dining room makes Pasta Cheech a standout among Italian restaurants. Open since April, the stunning dining room is just behind the Deptford Mall, barely two-tenths of a mile off Route 55 at Exit 58. But there's more than just good food at this attractive place, for portions are enormous, service is exceptionally friendly, and prices extremely moderate.

Indeed, you can get a marvelous three-course dinner for an average of $14.50 -a remarkable value. Obviously, Pasta Cheech has it all. The huge restaurant is stunning both inside and out. The massive exterior is two tones of earthly stucco. Inside is a cavernous room with a sky-high ceiling decorated in what might be called I I nv 4 VHtftW i i rj ($4) was ladyfingers and Kahlua-touched whipped mascarpone topped with espresso and garnished with huge puffs of canned whipped cream.

The plate was dusted with powered sugar and cinnamon. Service from both my waitress and bus girl was exceptionally friendly and attentive. The restaurant has no liquor license, but patrons may bring their own spirits. 0, ft asparagus and escarole that the spoon literally stood upright by itself. Chilled romaine salad with grated carrots and red cabbage, sliced cucumber, chunked tomatoes and homemade croutons came with a lovely sweet-sour balsamic vinaigrette or light-textured creamy Italian dressing.

Main dishes were exceptional. Chicken Oscar ($14.95) brought two tender breasts topped with big lumps of backfin crabmeat and pencil-thin '7 penne) heaped with crabmeat, chopped asparagus and sun-dried tomatoes in sweet white-wine sauce touched with cream. Eggplant Florentine ($9.95) was two large pieces of batter-dipped eggplant stuffed with creamy, nicely seasoned spinach and ricotta, with a veneer of melted cheese and good homemade tomato sauce. It came with linguini in marinara sauce and high-quality grated cheese. A cake-like wedge of luscious tiramisu if 4 f- V.

Italian GHU 1745 Deptford Center Road 856-848-3878 Wood-Fired Bride Oven Pizza Open for Lunch and Dinner 7 Days a Week Daily Specials Rooms Available for Private Parties Gift Certificates Available Always in Good Taste!.