The Philadelphia Inquirer from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania • Page 8

4U TEfo Pfnlabclpiiia Inquirer WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25. 1968 In This Sectjen 'tarn IN LIVING Society News Cleopatra's goodies in Phila. Sta Cargo of exotic fashion fantasies sent here fOF 100 By Persian-born designer of that name GlVGFI ifl MIS6UU1 By RUBYE GRAILVM Inquirer Fashion Editor Cleopatra's barge has sailed down the Delaware and deposited a cargo of exotic fashion fantasies in Philadel I 5: 3 xy' i a I 1 1 1 i J-N vn -r yi i t. I I. 1 tt i i v.

I a dwindling pile of saris. "I've been waiting months for more to arrive from India," she said. There was one red printed fabric from Persia, a pattern reminiscent of a Persian rug. A beautifully embroidered lambskin vest, the embroidery done in breathtaking colors right on the fur, cannot be gotten from Persia. WESTERN DESIGNS Many of her designs seem quite Western the wide-legged jumpsuits in raisin-colored velvet or green silk, for example.

But these always have an Eastern touch, often due to gold bullion braid with an "old" look, and sometimes through the fabric that is likely Western but with an Eastern look. Some designs follow traditional Persian or Moroccan New liqueur shades For lip coloring Apple Jack, Cherry Liqueur, Grenadine, Peach Brandy, Apricot Liqueur, Plum Brandy, Ginger Brandy, Spanish Brandy sounds like a collection of fine liqueurs, doesn't it? Actually, those are names of the new shades of Frances attire for example, abbas, caftans and djellebas but most are contemporary fashion silhouettes in an Eastern-look fabric with gold bullion and jeweled trim. My favorites ar the persimmon paisley Persian brocade edged in gold bullion and made up into a mididress with braid-bordered bodice over separate wide-legged pants in the same fabric and also the white-ground sari made up into a stunning V-necklixie style with full 6kirt and jeweled belt. There is also an unusually varied collection of ornamented vests. TINKLING GOLD BELLS All of Cleopatra's designs have several tiny tinkling gold bells sewn somewhere on them Valentino has his Vs as his signature, Cleopatra has her bells.

Among the pleasures of a visit to Cleopatra in her New York showroom is having her tell your fortune in a most unusual way she reads the "sludge" that remains in the cup of Turkish coffee she serves her visitors. A CUSTOM IN IRAN "This is a custom in Iran women meet late in the morning for coffee and they read the grounds to pass the time," she explained. But the morning we visited her she was out of Turkish coffee it had not arrived from the importer in Brooklyn. She has as much trouble getting the coffee on time from Brooklyn as the all the way from Persia. We did, however, visit her museum, a room with precious objects excavated centuries ago in Persia.

Cleopatra is not only a designer but a curator and a fortune teller, too. phia. Although the Persian, Indian and Moroccan fashions, mostly for evenings at home or out, are fit for the Queen of the Nile, their creator is a beautiful young Persian-born girl named Cleopatra Broumand. "My mother saw Claudette Colbert playing Cleopatra in movie just before I was born 4hat't how I come by the name," she explained. niTS BIG TIME Cleopatra Broumand has hit the big time as a designer in mere two years.

Before that, she designed loungewear for another firm. Her label, in flowering script, is already well known and available in some of the finest stores, including Nan Duskin. Cleopatra, who lived in her native Persia until she came to America at the age of 15, draws on her childhood memories and family treasures for her fashion look. Everything has a touch of Eastern fantasy something that reminds one of a Persian miniature or the Arabian nights. EXOTIC EASTERN FABRICS To start with, most of her fabrics have an exotic Eastern look.

"Actually almost everything comes from France, Italy or Siam. I would love to have more fabrics from Persia or India but they deliver in three years instead of three weeks." Last week when we visited her showroom with its Persian rugs and screens scattered about, she showed us 1 i Denney's Crystal Glazers eight sleek and shining "lip stains" that give a barely-there look with a brilliant crystal clear depth of color. A noticeably new look in lip coloring, not at all like lipstick, Crystal Glazers give a deepened tint heightened with gloss. The shades range from a pale frosty pink to a burnt red and with those marvelous liqueur names, they're absolutely 4 Red makes its mark for evenings this fall in an elegant dinner suit of American wool gabardine. Short fitted jacket covers a sculptured V-necked dress with bias flared skirt, accented with wide black patent belt.

Costume, by Murray Nieman for Hannah Troy, at Nan Duskin. 1000 then join Guests at opening Of Peruvian show By SUZY NEW YORK, Sept. 24. Some rather stunning guests came to the Guggenheim Museum the other night when Mr. Harry F.

Guggenheim gave his dinner for 100 hand-picked, screened-through silk types in honor of Celso Pastor, the Peruvian ambassador to the United States. Afterward, the coruscant coterie picked themselves up and headed for the private opening of Mastercraftsmen of Peru, there to be joined by more than 1000 others. How perfectly splendid. The dinner was held in a new, as yet unnamed room in the museum's new wing, which was being rushed to completion. The decor was terribly pre-Colombian, with a jungle like atmosphere throughout.

BIRDS AND BARTENDERS There were pre-Colombian motifs on the walls and a mural 35 feet long and 12 feet high and masses of plants and chattering birds in cages that sort of thing. There were three bartenders imported from Peru to slake the swells thirsts with Pisco sours, the native libation, and there was authentic pre-Colombian music taped by the ambassador himself, one hears. This whole business was just a one-shot arrangement. The next day murals, plants, birds, tapes and Piscos all came tumbling down. TOP FLIGHT DINERS Among the diners were former Peruvian President Jose Luis Bustamente Rivera, Doris Duke of the tobacco fortune, Mr.

and Mrs. Angler Biddle Duke, Frederick Eber-stadt, Mrs. Bernard Gimbel of the department store fortune, Mrs. John F. C.

Bryce of the chain-store fortune, Mrs. Andrew Fuller, born a Spreckels; Mr. and Mrs. William Moyers, Perle Mesta, Mrs. Jacob Javits, wife of the Senator like that.

Later on they mingled with Mr. and Mrs. Gardner Cowles of the magazine and newspaper fortune, Mr. and Mrs. William F.

Buckley Mr. and Mrs. John R. Drexel 3d, and Mr. and Mrs Haircourt Amory Jr.

like that How perfectly splendid indeed. There's nothing like lot of fine old names to clear the New York air. DUCHESS STAYS ON The Duke Pini di San Min-iato is back in New York from Canada, but his duchess, the former Gladys Wilson, lingers behind at her Montreal house, the Mews. The duchess is fatigued from the flurry of social activity revolving around Mrs. Bruno Pagiai's (she's Merle Oberon) recent visit to Canada.

In Merle's honor the San Miniatos pitched an orange, yellow and green-striped tent outside the Mews and asked all the prominent Canadians they could find to fill it Inside their precious collection of Chinese art was on display. Ming? Ting? Ping? Sing? Later Merle moved on to Ottawa, where the Argentine ambassador and Mrs. Ramos gave a party with caviar and everything but Prime Minister Trudeau, Canada's sex symbol and leading bachelor, who was promised but didn't show. Government business (someone said it was the Jamaican ambassador) kept him away. Alouette, gentU alouette, HAPPINESS ON A HILL Spanish Ambassador and the Marquesa de Merry del Val have a lot of country squire in them.

So their little hearts almost broke when they learned they would have to give up their precious weekends at the Little Pink House near Middleburg, Va. The del Vals rented the house from Charles Whit-house, a career diplomat assigned to Guinea, but then some mean old thing reassigned him to Washington and he wanted his house back. Just when it seemed all was lost a delightful mountain top place owned by TV commentator Willard Scott became available on Paris Mountain of all lucky places, right in the same neighborhood. It's built of fieldstone and has a large fireplace and a pool and a beautiful view. Accept husband As he is now, Wife is advised Bolder, brighter red Red has always been a stand-out color, and this year it's coming on bolder and brighter than ever.

For one thing, it's the only im- By ann landers portant bright color on a fashion scene Dear Ann: For the past 15 i i ii i year, i have b.cn married dominated by neutrals. For another, the to a man who is respected greaf fashion blackout, which has returned and admired ty everyone. lie is successful in his busi- black to top fashion status, has also made Siaar.d,dTS red stand out like a flash fining. children. The people he Smashing alone, red takes on even more works with thirk he is the Our marriage has ChlC wnen accented With black.

This surmounted many of life's mefln yacc rJm $ucn flS pafent I'dveirsities tie loss of a child, a imsiress faUure, belt, black buttons or a black fur border. illnes aid a bad car i i I i i i trident could mean black accessories high year i became ac- black boots, black fur turban or muff, black qainted with people vft knew my hi sband in his shoes, handbag or gloves. In short, red- c'Jildiliood days. Slowly I be- and-black is a color combination that's making a fashion statement loud and clear. A wardrobe without red this fall is much too somber.

Sarah Coughenour g.en to put the- pieces together and I have a picture that is driving me crty. Ilis real name is not thte name he is using now. li parents, who he claimed wore dead, are very much alive. He had a previous mrtrriage which he failed to mettfion. Ilis wa record, his lew York wire i 4 1 4 age- and bis religion are not as described Jbem.

I he new txperiment I boutique at W. oth wfTcteredv st. Manhattan is quietly outer-space. Co- thins and agree i to go to a directed by Margot and Lou Powell, the ia little shop recently blasted off as one of the on the track. To my utter hottest boutique experiments to hit the Vil- amazoment, th marriage i i I it counsJor agreed with my hus- la9e- specialty is nis-and-hers clothes tor band tiiat I had no right to rake the New "Genderation," which are so up the, muck of iie past and said should accept him for avante garde they re bound to attract quite "what6 tTou Rowing.

But at the opening the display wits' end. windows alone were reason enough to draw Dear wits: Tie marriage a crowd. A green, yellow and oranqe bolt counselor is ashing a great i t. i i i i deal, but i beLiee his advice ot psychedelic lightning tramed the double is souad. in my there windows of the shop and, above, its name is no better alts-native.

If your break up ycur marriage leTtered wildly in bright colors gleamed SrSSsKSe1 jhe background, a lattice-work of (it sounds sick to me), it mirrors added dimension to the windows, re- r.SriSerT; happening. well. Don't do it. (Women's Wear Daily) ft Red accented with black is one of fall's top looks. This red wool crepe dress by Pauline Trigere, with tight-fitting bodice and full flared skirt, is deeply hemmed with black fox fur.

The high black boots and black fur muff complete the look. Dress is now available at Nan Duskin..