Independent from Long Beach, California on February 27, 1969 · Page 69
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Independent from Long Beach, California · Page 69

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Long Beach, California
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Thursday, February 27, 1969
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Page 69
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Long lnd«p»nden».Presi-Ttl»grom-- Ml Collards, Chitlin's and Black Eyed Peas Are Soul Food ior Many NEW YORK (UP1) -The French don't call pigs' intestines soul food or chit- lins but they cat them all the same, in sausages. Ditto the English, who buy chitterlings cleaned and ready to grill. It may surprise a lot of American soul food fanciers, white and black, to learn that chitterlings and some other foods considered part of American ne- gro cookery are staples in other countries. The explanation is simple, says Louise Prothro. a Negro home economist here: "Soul food is what's cooked by people of a land using what they have." She added in an inter- view that poor people and country folk everywhere always have used the cheapest cuts of meat and variety meats, the most plentiful and cheapest vegetables. Take tripe, the stomach linings of ox. Creole style in a tomato sauce, it's American soul food. But tripe also is used in soups and/or stews in such far- flung lands $ England, France. Greece. Scotland, Portugal, Poland, Mexico and Switzerland. Head cheese, a jellied loaf that includes pigs' ears, tongues and heads, is paten also in England, France and Germany. Ham hocks with collard preens have a German cousin -- fresh pigs' knuc- kles with sauerkraut and boiled potatoes. Okra is a centuries-old staple in the Middle East. So are barbecued meats -- originally cooked by nomads on open fires. Collards are a variety of kale, a vegetable that one food historian says was eaten in England before the Norman conquist of 1066. He describes kale wort as almost the only vegetable the Saxons vised, and a staple for centuries afterwards among the lower and middle classes. The use of chitterlings as food may be even older. In "The Art of Charcuterie" (Knopf). author Jane Grigson traces the word as far back as the 13th century and says the original derivation is unknown. Its 13th century spelling was chitterlingis. As for American soul food, Mrs. Prothro deplores the current tendency to focus on only a few items -- such as chitterlings, black-eyed peas, tripe, candied sweet potatoes and corn pone. While these were staples for the hard-working Southern field hands -who far outnumbered the Negro house servants -they were not the only elements of negro cookery, she said. "In the whole Southern tradition there was divisiveness," she added. "The house servants learned about fine things. Not all of them ate only the poor food. "There were timrs of feast and times of famine, depending on the crop or the time of year. Even the poorest family, if its hens were laying, had an abundance of eggs. They used the eggs to make much more lavish meringue pies than our skimpy two egg white meringues today. "There were great dietary differences regionally, too. People from inland areas of Georgia ate farm products, river fish and land animals. Carolinians had seafood, crab snups and such. "For Negroes from New Orleans and the bayou country, soul food was entirely different. They had things like seafood, gumbo Creole, crawfish. "So many articles today make it sound as if every Negro in America exists on soul food. Let's face it -- their tastes, styles, dress, desires for food and so on. escalate like those of anyone else. "We used to have blackeyed peas one time a year, for New Years, because my father wanted them," said Mrs. Prothrn. who was reared in Worcester, Mass.. by parents who had come from rural Gray. Ga. A * * · Jam with Soul Spicy apple jam Is Louise Prothro's example of soul fond that moved north and changed its main ingredient, from plentiful Georgia peaches 10 plentiful northern ap pics. Following is her adaptation of her mother's recipe. Mix well together in a 2|/2 to 3-quart baking dish 4 cups of canned apple sauce, 3 cups of light brown sugar. Vj cup of vinegar. \'i teaspoon each of ground cloves and cinnamon and 'i teaspoon each of ground mace and ground nutmeg. Bake 3 hours in preheated 325-de- gref oven. Stir once or twice during baking. Serve hot or cold. Makes 3'i cups. To hold it for long periods, pour while hot into sterilized canning jars and seal immediately. Serve as a spread or top- ping for various breads nr ice cream or with roast ham or pork. Lettuce Aplenty We're so accustomed tn finding ample supplies of western iceberg lettuce in our local produce markets all year "round, we're inclined to forget that not too many years ago these crisp heads were a seasonal commodity. Thanks 10 improved cnoling and shipping methods, some 3Vj billion heads nf lei luce are hand-picked in the California and Arizona fields and shipped tn mark e t s everywhere each vcar. I'M WALT MORAN KRAFT VELVEETA AMERICAN CHEESE SPREAD CHEESE BLEU CHEESE 2 ^98° « 29° CHUNK 99s. ~ 49 MAYWD IABT Oft CARAWAY GOUDA OK BAIY 0» HICKORY SMOKED EDAM CHEESE SWISS CHEESE WISCONSIN AGED CHEDDAR SHARP TILLAMOOK CHEDDAR LONGHORN CHEDDAR CHUNK 99 CHUNK o9!b CHUNK 89 CHUNK /9' FIBRUART If HURT MONTH 0/Vlf ·r ·t»t························*································" SiZ5 POTATO, GERMAN POTATO, COLE SLAW, HEALTH OR MACARONI SALADS D.A.K. IMPORTED CANNED HAM CAN SUGAR N' SPICE HAM GLAZE, UOZ. 49c Let our "delightful deli" products help you serve delicious Lenten meals! Quick 'n easy foods, fresh from our own deli' Mich- . ens -- every .recipe tested repeatedly for taste I nutrition--don't bother with a shopping list--let our deli' dictate i new menu I serve a "different" delicious meal tonight! QUART I-GAL CARTONS · REAL ORANGE JUICE 39 69' FRUIT BOTTOM OR REOUIAR. FLAVORED LOW FAT YOGURT 5 TM PINTS £S CREAMED, FARMER STYLE, CHIVE OR LOW FAT PINT ft ft, COTTAGE CHEESE 29 (CHIVE IN PINTS ONLY) QUART SSe Qjffij) BRAND COMPARE! *3^R» HOME ~-^--- bwmrMREI t^ 4M t' DELIVERED VITAMIN D PRICE PRICE HOMOGENIZED MILK * GAL 49* 61* GOLDEN PREMIUM MILKouART 27* 33* LOW FAT MILK '/,-GAL 47* 59* NON FAT MILK^-GAL 37* 52* HALF HALF QUART 46* 52' HALF HALF PINT 27* 31* · · · « » t » t t t » i t i t » t l » » » « « « i » i « l « « t t « « l I « « « « « t t M t « t » t t f t t i « « « « t » t « t « t 3 $1 17-OZ. T I PKGS, · FANCY ARIZONA WHITE FROZEN BEEF, CHICKEN OR TURKEY BANQUET C$1 MEAT PIES 0 s -1 PET RITZ FROZEN DISCOUNTER PRICE lit EACH 8 . INCH l«*»*"«* PUMPKIN OB nr c APPLE PIESO SUPERB CATERING DISCOUNTER PRICE lit 2 GRAPEFRUIT PINTS 39* ROYAL HAWAIIAN PINEAPPLE EACH SUNKIST KINNOW EXTRA LARGE TANGERINES Ib "PRODUCE ITEM OP THE WEEK" WASHINGTON HOT HOUSE RHUBARB RECIPE: "RHUBARB SALAD RING" AT DISPLAY IN PRODUCE DEPT. ICE CREAM EVERYONE GETS BIG CHANGE AT cFudden, Westminster 3380 N. Los Coyotes at Wardlow 7930 Valley View, Buena Park

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