Independent from Long Beach, California on March 18, 1976 · Page 85
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Independent from Long Beach, California · Page 85

Long Beach, California
Issue Date:
Thursday, March 18, 1976
Page 85
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F--8^lnctepaident, Press-Telegram Long Beach WcoiM.-sur, M-irch \t, 19M Thursday, March II, I9;i TASTER'S VERDICT Mouton doesn't condescend to second place By GENE BKNTON In e a r l y s u m m e r of 1073, on the 22nd of June, French wine-bureaucracy s h i f t e d i t s ponderous derriere a wee fraction and declared t h a t the sacrosanct 1855 official classification of Bordeaux wines was changed. On that day, the Chateau Mouton Rothschild was officially rcclassified from Second G r e a t Growth to First Great Growth, to take its place alongside Chalcaus Haul Brion, Lafitc Rothschild, latour and Margaux. It was the only change made in the official classification in 118 years. The immovable object was finally moved by an irresistible force, the Baron Philipc de Rothschild, dynamic owner of the great chateau. ·No man has dedicated himself more effectively to the cause of great wine. For'more than 50 years he guided the destiny of Mouton Rothschild. WHEN HE f i r s t assumed leadership at the age'of 21, the motlo of Mouton was, "First 1 cannot be. Second I do not condescend to be. 1 am Moulon." Today that is all changed because the Baron devoted all his energies and facilities to producing superlative wines. He instigated the general practice of chateau bottling in Bordeaux by making Mouton the first to market all its wines in that manner. He joined art to wine by commissioning a different artist every year to paint a new design or picture for the label of that year's vintage. The list includes Braquc, Cha- gall, Coctcau and other greats. With the help of his American-born wife he built a small wine museum at Mouton which she planned and designed. It is lauded in art circles for its uncluttered simplicity, its ingenious use of space, light and color, as well as the superb quality of the art objects on display. This feeling for quality is carried into the Baron's other wine activities. His two other estates, Chateau Mouton Baron Philipc, and Chateau Clerc Milon (he acquired a section of the latter in 1969), both classified as fifth growths, are run very much like first growths. Both could have lawfully been absorbed into the mam estate and sold as C h a t e a u Mouton Rothschild, but the Baron scrupulously chose not to do this. MOUTON Baron Philipc was improved till it is today considered a second wine of Chateau Mouton Rothschild and deserving of promotion f r o m fifth growth to, at least, third growth. A l w a y s lighter and more delicate than Mouton, or most other wines from Pauillac (1962 was a marvelous exception), it is very fine claret with considerable backbone and finesse. In great years such as 1961 or 1966, it is graceful, complete wine, full of subtle complexities, perfectly rounded and with great elegance. The French might say, "cachet." The 1970 came as a very rounded, full fleshed wine, almost fat for this chateau. U it is more straightforward and less subtle or graceful than the more orthodox '71, it surpasses the '71 with unusupl richness, depth and harmonious balance. Opinions as to which will live longer, '70 or "71, are not divided, as compared to earlier views favoring the '70. CIcrc Milon "70 was the first vintage f r o m t h a t chateau produced by Mouton methods of vilification. One reputable wine newsletter out of San Francisco rated it, "below average." I disagree! My own experience with it led me to believe it is probably the best Clerc Milon in the last 50 years. Young, with lots of style and little or no grace (often a sign of young vines or new nielhods of vinification) it is big, rich, muscular wine, showing all the signs of becoming a little Mouton Rothschild. The more meager "71, a very good wine in its own way, will probably mature faster and have a m u c h more average life- span than the mighty '70. MOUTON CADET, the pleasant and ordinary little vintage dated w i n e which Mouton sells in very large q u a n t i t i e s , is a brand name appellation wine which, by law, may come from any part of Bordeaux. The 1970 vintage was an excellent buy which is still providing very pleasant drinking. As for Mouton Rothschild itself, great wine is not made cheaply. Only first class, costly methods of planting and vinifka- tion are used. In addition, new oaken casks are used annually for each new vintage. Casks alone probably cost well over $20,000 per year. Off vintage y e a r s receive the same meticulous care. 1964 was such a year. Mouton and Lafite, in an effort to achieve that e x t r a something w h i c h comes f r o m super ripe grapes, waited loo long to pick the vines. They were caught in a two-week downpour. The result was disappointing wine. Mouton '64 is an out of character, off style wine for the great chateau. At best, it is pleasant, soft and light, without real backbone or depth, sweetly fruity tasting with simi- lar somewhat tlowery t r a i t s in bouquet and should be consumed shortly after opening, before it begins to lose character. At $20 to $35, which many posh wine outlets are charging, it is t e r r i b l y overpriced. By contrast, '71 Mouton is beautiful. Rich, suave, fruity wine, still fairly green, with some underlying spice and a promise of d e l i c i o u s complexity. Lastly, the "10 Mouton is, in my opinion, one of the very great Bordeaux. A tremendous constitution. Soft, mouth filling, aromatic and richly opulent. Subtle fanins in a perfectly balanced wine. A harmonious, complete wine. The peacock's tail! The epitome of the Baron's new motto, "First I am, Second 1 was. Mouton never changes." CHUCK STEAK EFFECTIVE 9 A.M. THURS., MAR. 18lti Ihru MIDNirE WED., MAR. 24th, 1976 7-BONE CHUCK STEAK BEEF CENTER CUT BEEF-"·''.-",· ·-.-.'·' ROUND.BOiK OHKK ROAST BEEF BONELESS CHUCK ROAST rsONElESS'BKF" / FAMILY CUT ·CHUCK STfAK BEEF BONE M ENGLISH CUT CHUCK ROAST 1 1 ',.**·/, 39 IB. A frank look at hog dogs : By JEANNE LESEM A: new survey of hoi dog consumption jusl proves vfh^l everybody's been s a y i n g n i l a l o n g : (he frankfurter is a universal favorite. .'The study for a sausage casing m a n u f a c t u r e r shows franks are served in 95 per cent of all homes in the United Stales. B u t even the manufacturer was surprised to find thai most hot dogs are ea.ten as the main dish at a menl, not as a snack. Another surprise: adults eat more hot dogs than children, and women eat r.vor? hot dogs than men. The study described the heaviest users as child-oriented mothers representing 32 per cent of all A m e r i c a n households. They bought 41 per cent of all the hot dogs reported in a given four-week period. THREE types of women fell info Ihc heavy user category. The study profiles one as a young blue collar molher with a large family, a husband with income s l i g h t l y below average and lillle interest in cooking. She's apt to Fe'rve hot dogs for dinner, on a bun or bread, with a side dish of beans, the study said. She doesn't think hot dogs arc belter today or nutritionally adequate, but she doesn't really care. They're a Rood buy in her food budget because they fit her family's life style. Another heavy user was described as the young, fairly well-educated urbin mother who shops carefully, checks prices, tries new brands and new products, reads recipes and is apt to serve hot dogs wrapped in bacon or biscuit dough as lunch (or a neighbor or friend. THE THIRD big user is the family-centered suburbanite, well-educated, with above-average income anrf a casual approach to life in general. She's always on the lookout for new ideas and recipes, likes to use hot dogs in casseroles and m a c a r o n i dishes and thinks they are a good buy. For purposes of the study, a light user was a household that ate (ewer than 20 hot dogs in a four- week period; a heavy user, a household that ale 20 or more during the same length of lime. r BONELESS , STEWHW REEF OnMJF LEAN BEEF BONELESS CUBE STEAK .FRESH . WJOOW ···: Bftt '···. ', ·)*G.. LEANEST GROUND BIEF__ u, , r u. FIB. BREAKFAST LINKS BATH HCXCXY iMOCED SLICED BACON SWFTS BROWN N SERVt LINKS 8OZ. | PKG. . "' ' BONELESS' '"·"" BEEF BRISKET POINT HAlf ; CENIB8 CUT HAT «|» IB. FRESH SEA FOOD tXJMGNESS CRABS 29 $ | · FRESH WESTERN OYSTERS 6OZ. JAR 1 19 FRESH FlUEr Of PERCH 169 I 1 I L I O* PAOflC RED SHAFFER B79 HOUSJE PLANTS HUNTS PORK BEANS 31 OZ. CAN FANCY U.S. NO. 1 RUSSET POTATOES BROCCOLI C FRESH GREEN LB. GOLDEN m nm ff! DELICIOUS APPLES LB. JOHNSFON APPLE PIE 40 OZ. GOLDEN LAKE GREEN BEAN CASSEROLE 12 OZ. PKG. SCOT PAPER TOWELS ROYAL GELATIN ASST, FLAVORS 6OZ.PKG;' SWANSON70Z/ MAC W CHEESE__ BIRDSEYE 12 OZ. GRANGE PLUS SIZE SWIFT PREMIUM (CANNED HAM MB. CAN BETTY CROCKER FROSTING ASSTED. MIX 9V 2 OZ. BOX - - KING' DAVID . SARDINES ,1 LAYER |N OH 3%OZ.CAN , MARKET 8EST STRAWBERRY JAM 2-lB. JAR iioz. · X«*w H S*4: · PoMtrfxcgt ·feCkrkM !*V| Chili Dip for tonight's Happy Hour Mexican but mild. Delicious wilh any potato chip or corn chip. Dip il right from Ihc jar. Delightful hlond of tomatoes and chilis. One of o u r lies! known "socrots." STORAGE BAGS ERAPEJEUV89 C HI-C CHILLED FRUIT DRINKS ASSORTED OZ. BOLOGNA MEAT K BEEF 8 OZ. PKG. YAGO SANTGRIA A (··!!«· r.d w i n * C | QQ wilh cilr» fruit |.ic.i H I 7 7 OICOKATIVI CHEESEBOARD SET QUAUT SWINO 110 WASTEBASKET uwn . . 695 WISK^ UQ010 DCTEReENT Ut 6AL SiZE W* *n towpoi w4y.Ofi«r ffxrf WHITE KING DETERMENT 10 'U.IIM. $ flaaaaasss s^ HUNTS KETCHUP 37 oz MV 4fe _ BOTHE ^M ^j£ MNE'S PICKLES 69 '*£ "Food secrets of Mexico" MBS. PAUL'S IIOHT BATIERflSH FUHS U'/j OZ. KGft I RADIO SPECIAL 49 CRISCO OIL $|59 48 OZ. KRAFTPARKAY MARGARINE I LS. (REG. ST1OO KGJL RADIO SPECIAL UKinE °53 ( J^J MR. MUSCLE OVEN CLEANER 10 1602. ^ · J * CANADA DRY MIXERS 39 C CANADA DRY MIXERS TOMC G*JG£8 AlE 6 lor SI 29 6 Itr S r l 9 10 01. - 3 7 5 0 ! »TMi««-i.vl l -- JO' N Iwxy-id 0 Pol-« · WANCE -- f AMWOOO CH.:ci vlUAGt i DOwMY - : ??70 S P · NO«V/«K --

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