The Los Angeles Times from Los Angeles, California • Page 117

E16 FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14, 1990 LOS ANGELES TIMES FASHION GIANT ONE DAY ONLY WAREHOUSE SALE ALL DAMAGES, SAMPLES, OVER RUNS SECONDS DRASTICALLY REDUCED UP TO 75 OFF SATURDAY, DECEMBER 15th 9:00 a.m. 5:00 p.m. 401 N. Maple Dr. S5t Tyler, pose for Peter Ashworth.

"It's not necessary that we use 'GQ'-type models," Tyler says. Three members of the Orozco family, Cynthia, from left, Juan and Xavier, in styles by designer Richard FOR THIS HOLIDA SEASON entertain style MODELS: Exotic Faces in Vogue AND SAVE UP TO 50 Off thru 122190 only Factory Direct Savings Reduced Prices on custom, too! Bring your measurements 3 Convenient showrooms Visit one of our showrooms or call for more information. Culver City: Mon. thru Sat. 10 a.m.

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Sun. 12 noon to 5 p.m. Continued from El growing control over the models they use and the pictures they take. Often, they prefer to use non-models. Photographer Bruce Weber, for example, has used youthful Santa Monica surfers and American Indians for a number of Calvin Klein ads; Herb Ritts discovered Tony Ward (featured in Madonna's new, banned-from-MTV "Justify My Love" video) while doing a series of pseudo-erotic underwear photos for L.A.

Style magazine; and Philip Dixon showed exotic -looking models with exaggerated features for Body Glove and other local clothing company ads. Weber is based in New York; Ritts and Dixon live in Los Angeles. But, "It was the European photographers who came to California that started it all," says model-turned-photographer Carlos Reynosa of Los Angeles, who shoots for Mademoiselle, Interview and Rolling Stone, among other magazines. "They discovered the ethnic diversity of Los Angeles and took advantage of it." Reynosa says interest in ethnic models was limited 10 years ago when he spent his days in front of the camera, not behind it. "Now the industry is much more open," he says.

When I started taking pictures in 1984, 1 received immediate acceptance using ethnic models." Not surprisingly, model agencies are eager to fill the demand for non-conventional faces. Many Los Angeles agencies schedule "open calls" every other week when 200 to 300 wanna-bes show up, vying for the chance to make from $50 an hour (for editorial work) to $5,000 a day (for some advertising campaigns). The agencies cast models for everything from newspaper, magazine and billboard ads to television commercials. They promote models with large noses, exaggerated sideburns, tattoos, even crooked teeth, and are discovering that it pays to specialize in the eccentric. Omar's Men, It Models, Hero, Prima East West, L.A.

Models and Elite's New Faces division are just a few of the agencies helping to, quite literally, change the face of modeling by specializing in clients from diverse ethnic backgrounds. Omar Albertto owns Omar's Men, which specializes in male models with strong, ethnic looks and plenty of attitude; a handful are former gang members. He looks for the man with a compelling face. "I don't mean Ken doll looks," he says. "He can have a big nose or exaggerated big lips.

Or maybe his teeth aren't lined up, but he has a great smile. Fashion is coming from the streets today. So why not use people from the streets to model them?" Indeed, Albertto has been so successful with his approach that he recently opened a sister agency, It Models. Using a similar philosophy for women, co-owner Paul Fisher says, has proven successful. Last year, the agencies had a combined yearly income of about $15 million, the owners say.

Despite the move away from strictly Anglo models, most department-stores adhere to a "3-to-1 ratio" (three Anglos to every ethnic model) for their ads. But some store executives say they are using more ethnic models for in-store fashion shows, in part to keep up with trends. "With the shifting monetary distribution to minority groups in America, the smart companies are starting to target these groups," says Ray Wills, a vice president of Macy's California. One way to do so, he adds, is to hire a greater number of ethnic models. Store fashion shows rely more heavily on an ethnic mix of models because there are increasingly more people of color in the audi-Please see MODELS, E18 Upland: Wed.

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