The Los Angeles Times from Los Angeles, California • 385

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The carbon dioxide gas could not escape. The process had ended, the wine fallen clear, the drawn sample threaded with fine bubbles. It was sweet, as fresh as the juice of ripe grapes, with a mere 7 alcohol. Louis called it moscato ama-bile, or "lovely muscat." In principle, that's how Martini Rossi make their Asti Spumante: Juice Martini Rossi make their Asti Spumante with juice from the choicest muscat vineyards of Piedmont It's stored in refrigerated vats, then fermented with selected yeasts in pressurized tanks that confine the carbon dioxide, giving the wine natural effervescence. from the choicest muscat vineyards of Piedmont is stored in refrigerated vats, then fermented with selected yeasts in pressurized tanks that confine the natural carbon dioxide, giving the wine a natural effervescence.

In a long, slow, cool fermentation at 55 degrees Fahrenheit, the bouquet is maximized, fermentation being stopped at 9 natural grape sugar. A sterile filtration ensures that a second fermentation does not occur after bottling. Tasting Martini Rossi Asti Spumante ($10) is like crushing a cold, sweet, ripe grape in your mouth. "There's one kilo of fresh moscato grapes in each bottle," Marocco says. I returned to the Guenoc Chardonnay with the salmon but went back several times to sample the Asti Spumante, and loved every mouthful.

It's such a wonderful wine experience so joyous, clean, refreshing, beguiling with its fragrance that I'll leave it to you when to serve it. The name Martini Rossi, of course, also summons thoughts of vermouth, for which the old house is world famous. Hippocrates is credited with having made the first of such herb- and spice-infused wines. All through the Renaissance, the brew evolved, used for medical and mystical purposes. Venetian traders brought aromatic plants and spices from the East ginger, nutmeg and cloves.

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