The Journal News from White Plains, New York • Page 21

Gannett Newspapers JN Tuesday, February 3, 1998 3C Lalique: Innovative designer recast jewelry as art 4 1 -Til ni Vever Archives The display cases of Rene Lalique and the Vever firm at the 1900 Universal Exhibition in Paris. Lafayette Paris Lai ique's jewel ry for Sarah Bernhardt isdisplayed in this portrait of the actress. Lalique rings and bracelets can sell for Macklowe says, while the larger pieces can net six figures. That the jewelry may be more valued than the glass is as it should be, some observers say. "Some of the glass is quite wonderful," Aldin says.

"But it's less art and more design." In the jewels of Lalique, observers say, art and design are inextricably intertwined. Continued from page 1C a research associate in the Department of 20th-century Art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, whjch has loaned several pieces to the Cooper-Hewitt show. "In most cases, the kind of stone wasn't the important part of Lalique jewelry. What was important was the picture, the design." Visitors to "The Jewels of Lalique" and readers of the splendidly illustrated catalog (Flam-marion, $50) will encounter a fantastical world that can rightly be described as jeweled painting and sculpture tiaras of gracefully sensual mermaids riding opal waves, corsages dripping with sinuous enamel snakes worthy of Medusa, pocket watches with butterflies, bats and pine combs, rings with pearl blossoms, brooches of spiky glass-and-enamel pine sprigs. Even the names of the works suggest an artist's sensibility.

"Winter Landscape" (circa 1899-1900) is a pendant of gold, opaque enamel on gold, glass and pearl that depicts snow-covered branches and crystalline snow drops against a periwinkle thicket of trees. (In the catalog, a picture of the pendant is juxtaposed with a photograph called "Fir Trees in the Snow at Like winter itself, Lalique's pendant has a shivery beauty. By the time Lalique created "Winter Landscape," he was already a darling of Paris' creme de la creme. He had designed jewelry for legendary actress Sarah Bernhardt and gained the patronage of aristocrat-aesthete Robert de Montesquiou, the model for the character Baron de Charlus in Marcel Proust's "Remembrance of Things Past." But what really made Lali-que's reputation was the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900. Picture it, if you will: All these suffocating Victorian cases made of dark wood and filled with heavy black velvet to offset the Cooper-Hewitt Museum spiffs up its image a jeweler during the period of art nouveau, Lalique the glassmaker heralded the sleek, angular era of art deco in 1925, contributing a pavilion and glass fountain to the Paris International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts.

"Lalique glass is highly collectible, and some of it is quite costly," says Lloyd Macklowe of Manhattan's Macklowe Gallery which specializes in art nouveau and art deco. But, some observers say, it doesn't quite compare to the jewelry, which rarely goes on the market these days. When it does, by bronze female nudes with butterfly wings. Above this, bats swooped through a gauzy gray heaven. It was against this fanciful backdrop that Lalique displayed his jewels, and a sensation was born.

But even as the public was catching up to Lalique, he was moving on. He had begun experimenting with glass as early as 1893, creating sculpture and one-df-a-kind vases and vessels. "In his jewelry, he used a lot of enamel," says Rosasco, "and there's only a fine line between enamel and glass." In 1908, Francois Coty asked him to design a fragrance bottle. The success of the Coty perfume bottle led Lalique to concentrate on the design and mass production of the glass objects that define Lalique for the public today. Having made his reputation as 'The Jewels of Lalique' Museumi Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution Addrecs: 2 E.

9lst St. (off Fifth Avenue), Manhattan Dates: Today through April 12 Hours! 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays arjd noon-5 p.m. Sundays.

Admission: $1.50 for students with I Ds and senior I citizens; free to all from 5 to 9 Tuesdays Phonas 212-849-8400 brilliance of the jewels displayed. And there in the far corner, this shaft of light, this breath of air a gauzy white screen topped I "sraum whole EBSQP BXEIITES EKEBSY, CBL03 BXB EBQfl THE ACES MM IWISTCHESTEH I UPSTATE MT 1 BOBBY WOLFF 02-0J-A DOCTOR'S OFFICE DR. ANDY BRONIN Victims are itching to get rid of scabies -Question: My son is a sophomore in college. He was home for vacation, and had an itchy rash the whole time. Now that he is gone, his sister, who is still at home, is itching.

So is his father. I have called him, and now he mentions that his roommate is itchy also. He went to the school health office and they told him that he has eczema. Is eczema catching? I would appreciate your prompt help. I am beginning to get itchy myself, and I can't tell whether it's real or whether I'm just itchy thinking about it.

Ellen Scarsdale Answers Eczema isn't catching. But is. And that's what your son most likely has. Scabies is caused by a microscopic-sized mite. The mite lives just under the surface of the skin.

It spreads from person to person by direct contact. Scabies can be very contagious. It flourishes in environments where people are in contact with each other the classic situations being prisons, nursing homes, armed forces barracks, college dormitories, or families. Once a scabies mite takes up residence under your skin, it lays eggs and breeds. As the population of mites increases, the body begins to recognize their presence.

It reacts to them by producing an intensely itchy rash. And the rash, which is red and scaly, resembles the rash of eczema. As a matter of fact, it is often misdiagnosed as eczema. So it sounds like your son and his roommate and your family may well have scabies. Here are a couple of questions to ask your son to help make the diagnosis.

First of all, what time of day is his itching (or your daughter's or husband's) the worst? If the answer is at night especially if it wakes them out of a sound sleep then this is classic for scabies. For some unknown reason the itching it produces seems to be worst at night. Second, are there certain areas that it itches more than others? In scabies, the itchiest areas are often the webs between the fingers, the elbows or the abdomen. And on men, the scrotum can be intensely itchy. Finally, has the rash persisted for a long time? Ask your son just how long he or his roommate have been itching.

The longer the duration, the more likely that the diagnosis is scabies. Scabies can last not just for months, but for years. Once those little mites arrive, they make themselves at home and settle in. You probably know the phrase "Seven Year Itch" as the title of the movie starring Marilyn Monroe and Tom Ewell. But the fact is that the original meaning of the phrase "seven year itch" was no kidding scabies.

Scabies has an ancient history it's been around for centuries. If you've ever read or heard of Europe's "sulfur baths," they were one of the treatments for this disease. The sulfur would kill the mites if you could stand the smell. Today our treatments are somewhat less olfactorily offensive; there are a variety of lotions and creams that will effectively kill the mite. They require a prescription.

You should consult your doctor, ask her or him if they agree that this is the likely diagnosis, and get a prescription for the appropriate scabicide. Be sure to inform anyone who has been in close contact with your family that this diagnosis has been made. And be sure to have your son tell his roommate, and to inform the college health service of the correct diagnosis. Otherwise, the condition will just continue to be spread through the school. Dr.

Andy Bronin is president of the Westchester Academy of Medicine. Write to: Dr. Andy Bronin, 4 Rye Ridge Plaza, Rye Brook, N.Y. 10573. Or e-mail: abroninmindspring.com.

NORTH A 5 3 643 A 85 752 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS AU WESTCHESTER SAW MILL MULTIPLEX HAWTHORNE 747-2333 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS CROSS-COUNTY MULTIPLEX CINEMAS YONKERS 376-7100 UNITED ARTISTS JEFFERSON VALLEY JEFFERSON VALLEY 777-FILM 1825 CLEARVIEW CINEMAS MaMaRONECX PLAYHOUSE MAMARONECK 698-2200 CHESTER 4 CINEMAS CHESTER 469-9009 HOYTS CINEMAS FISHKIU CINEMAS 10 i FISHKILL (96-10(9 HOYTS CINEMAS CALLERIA POUGHKEEPSIE 297-1161 SONY THEATRES 6AUERIA IaETROPLEX Ml MIDOLETOWN 695-1725 HOYTS CINEMAS HVM CINEMAS 12 KINGSTON 336-41K "That's miserable and cursed word, to say I had, when what I have is nothing." Plautus "I counted 10 top winners," exclaimed an astonished South. "The bad trump break and West's shrewd duck combined to make one winner disappear." r. COLUMBIA PGgt PICTUREsLiJ WEST A 7 6 4 KQ95 762 94 EAST A 2 A 8 7 943 10 6 3 IffCTflUY.I ICMNECTICUTl HOYTS CINEMAS NEWBURGH CINEMAS IB NEWBURGH 5644844 WBTSTC NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS CROSS-COUNTY MULTIPLEX CINEMAS YONKERS 376-7100 UNITED ARTISTS JEFFERSON VALLEY JEFFERSON VALLEY 777-FILM IS25 UNITED ARTISTS MOVIEUUH) TOURERS YONKERS 777-FILM M23 CLEARVIEW CINEMAS Ml. DISCO CINEMAS MT. KISCO 666-6900 CR0W LANDMARK 1M STAMFORD 324-3100 CROWN MARQUIS TRUMBULL 365-6501 CROWN ROYUES NORWALK 846-8795 SONY THEATRES DANBURY Ml DANBURY 796-7777 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS SHOWCASE CINEMAS BRIDGEPORT BRIDGEPORT 339-7171 CHESTER SIXPLEX CHESTER 469-5333 NOTTS CINEMAS FISHKIU CINEMAS 11 FISHKILL (96-1069 HOYTS CINEMAS 6ALLERIA POUSHKEEPSIE 297-1161 SONY THEATRES 6ALLERIA METROPLEX Wit MIOOUTOWN 695-1725 NOTTS CINEMAS HVM CINEMAS 12 KINGSTON 33641U FLORIN-CREATIVE LYCEUM RED HOOK 756 3311 FLORIN-CREATIVE MALL OUAD MONTKELLO 794-2600 HOYTS CINEMAS NEWBURGH CINEMAS II NEW8URGH 5644(44 GENERAL CINEMA BAY PLAZA CO-OP CITY 320-3020 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS CONCOURSE PLAZA MULTIPLEX 5884800 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS WHITESTONE MULTIPLEX 409 9030 SOUTH AAQ1098 102 KQ10 AK8 Vulnerable: Both Dealer South The bidding: South West North East 1 Pass 2 Pass 4 A Pass Pass Pass Opening lead: Heart king ICOMIttTICinl IROCHUHDl DDI UNITED ARTISTS SPRING VALLEY SPRING VALLEY 2 777-FILM 1809 Continued from page 1C George G.

King, director of the Katonah Museum of Art, who worked at the Cooper-Hewitt in various capacities in the 1980s. "The Cooper-Hewitt is the premier design institution in the country. It's done a good job of bringing the design field to light and making it more universal." King, the newly appointed director of the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe, N.M., points to a particularly clever show the Cooper-Hewitt did on appliances. "Under the Sun," the museum's summer exhibit, will look at the relationship of design and solar energy, Pilgrim says. The revitalization of the Cooper-Hewitt's home comes at a time when interest in design seems to have exploded.

Domestic diva Martha Stewart remains popular, as do home-improvement segments on talk shdws and design magazines. (There are more than 50 such publications on the market.) Far from being faddish, Pilgrim says, the current interest in design reflects something primal in human nature. "People have an insatiable hunger to make things personal to themselves," she says. "When archaeologists look at the past, they are looking at design, at the objects of everyday life. It's from those that we glean what people's lives were like." CROWN LANDMARK 3HB1 STAMFORD 324-3100 CROWN MARQUIS TRUMBULL 365-6901 CROWN SONO RESENT S.

NORWALK (99-7979 SONY THEATRES OAMSURY MM DANBURY 796-7777 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS SHOWCASE CINEMAS ORIOSEPORT BRIDGEPORT 339-7171 Iwainl FOR ADVANCE TICKETS AND SHOWTTMES Ull 771-HUT MBIT www.777film.com What could he have done to hold on to his 10th winner? South ruffed the third heart and counted 10 top tricks. And if someone dropped the singleton trump king, he would have 11. Believing he had nothing to lose, South cashed his trhmp ace and led another trump. West ducked shrewdly, and when East discarded, South knew he was in trouble. If he played meekly to concede "only" down one, he could run dummy's diamonds and discard a club.

West woujd ruff to score his low trump, and the defense would get two trumps and two hearts. South played for West to have no more hearts and bravely led another trump. However, West led his last heart to remove South's last trump for the same result! (Had West held five hearts, it would have been two down.) How could he make game? After ruffing the third heart, South should lead a trump, but not the ace. When West ducks, South leads another low trump. If West ducks again, South cashes his trump ace and runs diamonds, discarding his losing club.

BID WITH THE ACES 02-03 GENERAL CINEMA BAY PLAZA CO-OP CITY 320-3020 NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS CONCOURSE PLAZA MULTIPLEX su-uoo NATIONAL AMUSEMENTS WHITESTONE MULTIPLEX 409-9030 IBOCKLAMDI South holds: CENTRAL PEARL RIVER 735-2530 CLEARVIEW CINEMAS NEW CITY CINEMAS NEW art 634-5100 2 AJ87 943 10 6 3 UNITED ARTISTS SPRINC VALLEY 777-FILM 1809 ,1 mmm t- -y KIR ADVANCE TICKETS AND SHOWTTMES CALL 777-RAW OH VOfV www.777nim.cofn South i North 1 A 1 ''m NATIONAl AMUSEMENTS ALL WESTCHESTER SAW MILL MULTIPLEX CINEMAS HAWIHOtNE 747 2333 Cf NEIAl ONE MA CENTRAL PLAZA 4 VONKEIi 793J232 UNITED AITTSTS THEATIES JEFFERSON VALLEY YOttTOWN NTS JTJttM AMERICAN THEATRE 863-4900 GENE RAl CINEMA BAY PLAZA 3KX NATIONAl AMUSEMENTS CONCOURSE PLAZA MULTIPLEX CINEMAS i as as jo NATIONAl AMUSEMENTS WHITESTONE MULTIPLEX CINEMAS 409 W30 If West ruffs, it's his last trick. And if he doesn't, South cashes his two top clubs, limiting West's trump winners to only his king. Answer: One heart. Do not bypass a four-card major to offer a raise in clubs. Opener may well hold four hearts and three clubs.

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